That sounds like something I can afford!
Iv got no idea of how to do it though, please help!
Lapping film, try it.
- Thread starter Blix
- Start date
That sounds like something I can afford!
Iv got no idea of how to do it though, please help!
Use a 1000 or even 2000 wet/dry grit on your flat surface, set your bevel then use the film for the rest.
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Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Lapping film essentially is sandpaper. Em...sand-film. Aluminum oxide paper?? Whatever.
A a piece of plastic film covered with 12k sized Aluminum oxide is a good finisher. Why can't a piece of W/D paper covered with 1k grit be a good Bevel setter?
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
The only thing with sandpaper is you have to glue it to the plate. I use a VERY light spray of 3M spray adhesive on the back of the sandpaper. You have to apply the sandpaper very carefully, keeping it totally free of bubbles, wrinkles, etc. It really does make a good bevel setter but you have to do it right. Cut a whole sheet up longways in thirds. Glue it to a 3" x 12" plate. The extra inch gives you something to hold on to. As with all honing, I most strongly recommend honing in hand, not on a bench or table. It really does make a big difference, especially while you are learning. You can use water, or not, whatever blows your skirt up. I generally don't. To change grits you need to clean off all the adhesive. Acetone works pretty good for that. Best to have a separate plate for each grit of paper and film. Then you just leave it on until it wears out.
I just ordered a couple of assortment packs from a place called Stuller. It was the best price I found for an assortment(non PSA) and a variety of 7 grits all the way down to 3 microns. It was incredibly cheap and they are 3m products! I believe it was 6.98$ for a pack that contained multiple grits. (This kit contains 1 sheet of each Grit. (400, 600, 1200, 4000, 6000, 8000)
Thats not a knife! Thats a spoon!
Thats not a knife! Thats a spoon!
And I ordered some 120 grit (12 micron) 2 sheets for 3 bucks!
Thats not a knife! Thats a spoon!
I see you've played knifey/spoony before...
Hahahha awesome I wondered if anyone was gonna know that quote
Thats not a knife! Thats a spoon!
Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
I think for a razor edge for final pass should be .25 to .5 micron if possible for a polish finish on edge?
1u is a common finisher. So is smaller (.3u is usually the size available from the optical supply houses).
Any recommendations on where to buy these lapping films in Europe?
What I could find via Google was rather expensive (factoring shipping to Romania).
Thanks guys
What I could find via Google was rather expensive (factoring shipping to Romania).
Thanks guys
Many thanks!
I don't know if they are cheapest, but they are in Romania. Google "Fiber Optic Supply" in the future. Lapping film is used to polish cable splices.Many thanks!
I've seen variety packs on eBay occasionally, which are almost tailored to razor honing.
Yup, I saw those on ebay and some tools&hardware shops, but the prices were at least double than what I see on Mouser.
Funny though, because I used to buy lots of electronic components from them back in the day when I was building or modding hi-fi stuff. Never crossed my mind to search on their website.
Funny though, because I used to buy lots of electronic components from them back in the day when I was building or modding hi-fi stuff. Never crossed my mind to search on their website.
This is good advice. It took digging through many, many pages of search results to figure this out.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Sure. Why not? Take some 1000 grit or whatever u like, glue it flat and tight to a piece of heavy glass or polished stone or whatever with a little spritz of spray adhesive. Instant cheap hone for bevel setting.What!? U mean use sandpaper on the blade edge to set a bevel!??
First off, thanks to everyone for such an informative thread!! Read through pretty much all of it today (slow day at work), and watched Slash's YouTube videos. All very informative. I've been using a straight razor for a few years now, but always sent them out to be honed/cleaned up as needed, typically about once a year. Larry at WhippedDog does an awesome job of this, by the way. Never wanted the expense of numerous stones to do my own honing. Came across this thread and am ready to go all in with lapping film. This will be my first attempt at razor honing so I have a few questions before I pull the trigger.
Found this film on ebay - 3M Lapping Film 9 Sheets 8-1/2" x 11" NON PSA (.3,1,3,5,9,12,30,40,60 microns) | eBay It's NON-PSA (non-adhesive back). So it should be fine. Just wanted to check with the lapping film experts first. I'll only be using these to keep my personal razors in shape, so no need for packs of 5 or 10 which is why I'm leaning towards these with individual sheets.
Secondly, the progressions seem to be personal preference. But I plan to message the above ebay seller and see if he can work me up a kit with non adhesive backed in 30u, 12u (can't seem to find 15u anywhere), 9u, 3u and 1u. Does this sound like an appropriate progression for razors that already have a solid bevel set by Larry at WhippedDog? Seems most don't like the 5u and .3u, so I'm steering clear of those for now. I understand that touch ups might only need 3u > 1u. But want to have the appropriate grits to do any aggressive work that might be needed in the future, or bevel resetting if I really screw up (drop) any of my razors. Certainly wouldn't be the first time that happened.
Lastly, one of my razors (I only have 2) has a little nick in the blade. Bad enough that it's noticeable when shaving, but not bad enough that it keeps me from shaving with that particular razor. What would be the best way to work out the nick with lapping film? Or should I be considering something more aggressive for this razor like 1k or 2k wet/dry sandpaper and then progressing from there?
Any other tips, tricks, suggestions, etc. are more than welcome. I'm just trying to soak up all the information I can at the moment!!
Found this film on ebay - 3M Lapping Film 9 Sheets 8-1/2" x 11" NON PSA (.3,1,3,5,9,12,30,40,60 microns) | eBay It's NON-PSA (non-adhesive back). So it should be fine. Just wanted to check with the lapping film experts first. I'll only be using these to keep my personal razors in shape, so no need for packs of 5 or 10 which is why I'm leaning towards these with individual sheets.
Secondly, the progressions seem to be personal preference. But I plan to message the above ebay seller and see if he can work me up a kit with non adhesive backed in 30u, 12u (can't seem to find 15u anywhere), 9u, 3u and 1u. Does this sound like an appropriate progression for razors that already have a solid bevel set by Larry at WhippedDog? Seems most don't like the 5u and .3u, so I'm steering clear of those for now. I understand that touch ups might only need 3u > 1u. But want to have the appropriate grits to do any aggressive work that might be needed in the future, or bevel resetting if I really screw up (drop) any of my razors. Certainly wouldn't be the first time that happened.
Lastly, one of my razors (I only have 2) has a little nick in the blade. Bad enough that it's noticeable when shaving, but not bad enough that it keeps me from shaving with that particular razor. What would be the best way to work out the nick with lapping film? Or should I be considering something more aggressive for this razor like 1k or 2k wet/dry sandpaper and then progressing from there?
Any other tips, tricks, suggestions, etc. are more than welcome. I'm just trying to soak up all the information I can at the moment!!
I still new to this, but in regards to bevel setting I find a 1k stone to be a more practical alternative.
Lapping film in coarser grits seems to have the shortest life span and multiple sheets may need to be bought.
On the other hand, the cost of a Naniwa or King is quite low (in the 20$ range) to warrant the expense especially in the long term.
Personally, I went with the Naniwa 1-3k combination stone (paid less than 30$ for it) and bought only higher grit film (3 microns and up).
Lapping film in coarser grits seems to have the shortest life span and multiple sheets may need to be bought.
On the other hand, the cost of a Naniwa or King is quite low (in the 20$ range) to warrant the expense especially in the long term.
Personally, I went with the Naniwa 1-3k combination stone (paid less than 30$ for it) and bought only higher grit film (3 microns and up).
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
3M is a good brand. You can use 30u or 45u for edge repair, or 600 grit wet/dry, or coarser for bigger jobs. Coarse film cuts pretty fast. I have some 60u I been meaning to try, but when I have a lot of steel to remove its kinda automatic for me to go to the 100 grit sandpaper and gitter done. You don't need to start with a stone unless you just like rubbing stuff on rocks and getting in touch with your inner caveman.
Secret to using coarse stuff is to take steel off until the defects are still just visible. Don't keep at it with the big guns until you have a perfect bevel. That stuff just does your heavy lifting for you. Stop with the coarse media when it is nearly done, not completely done. Then progress up to your normal bevel setter at which point all defects should vanish and tadah you just saved an hour or two of neanderthal neolithical rock rubbing. Another thing... Some guys think when they have to make a lot of steel go away from the edge, they should protect the spine from "damage". So they cover the spine with electrical tape. That is absolutely the WORST time to do that! When a LOT of edge has to disappear, you don't want to keep every little molecule of steel on the spine! A lot of spine needs to go away, too. Think about it. REALLY think about it.
Being new to this you should probably practice on an eBay beater before clobbering a nice razor. Just saying. Some guys go medieval and don't know how to stop.
Some considerable pressure is needed up through the bevel setting stage, but then you should gradually reduce pressure so by the finish you are using just the weight of the razor. Excess pressure is the sure way to create a horrible edge. Most guys blame it on too many laps. It is really too much pressure. Want fin or wire edge? Just bear down on that blade like you hate it and want to grind it into a toothpick. You will get it.
Hone in hand. It is the right thing to do.
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