Lapping film, try it.

[nymtber]

I finally got some lapping film... Found an ebay auction with buy now for $25 shipped for a full lapping film set up (12, 5, 3 and 1µm), and a practically new Whipped Dog "Poor man's strop kit"! I figured, can't go wrong at that price! Sure, its not the full lapping film available on Amazon for about $11, but for practically nothing, I got at least a full sheet of each grit size, most was cut up, but I found enough I have 2-3 usable pieces of each, some grits more. I'm good for more razors than I'm likely to own!

So tonight I honed my first ever straight razor: a W&G from probably 30's or 40's I got for $5 years back at the antique store, that had a decent edge on it already. I worked my way through using Slash's instructions, and finished up with about 30 laps each on .3µm pasted balsa and .1µm pasted balsa (the WD kit), then probably 25 laps on the poor mans strop.

Result? Passes all HHT tests up and down the blade, and tree-tops arm hairs with ease. HHT is as good as my Feather AC SS with 2 shaves on a blade, so the blade is no where near worn yet. I consider that GREAT for a first attempt! I'll find out more tomorrow when I shave. I'll have the NEW on standby, I always have a DE for touching up spots. My neck is tricky with any razor, so I'd rather touch it up than slice it up.

Thanks for the tips all, especially slash for the great write up (and, youtube videos). The spray bottle with water is a must have

 

[jgkeegan]

I finally got some lapping film... Found an ebay auction with buy now for $25 shipped for a full lapping film set up (12, 5, 3 and 1µm), and a practically new Whipped Dog "Poor man's strop kit"! I figured, can't go wrong at that price! Sure, its not the full lapping film available on Amazon for about $11, but for practically nothing, I got at least a full sheet of each grit size, most was cut up, but I found enough I have 2-3 usable pieces of each, some grits more. I'm good for more razors than I'm likely to own!

So tonight I honed my first ever straight razor: a W&G from probably 30's or 40's I got for $5 years back at the antique store, that had a decent edge on it already. I worked my way through using Slash's instructions, and finished up with about 30 laps each on .3µm pasted balsa and .1µm pasted balsa (the WD kit), then probably 25 laps on the poor mans strop.

Result? Passes all HHT tests up and down the blade, and tree-tops arm hairs with ease. HHT is as good as my Feather AC SS with 2 shaves on a blade, so the blade is no where near worn yet. I consider that GREAT for a first attempt! I'll find out more tomorrow when I shave. I'll have the NEW on standby, I always have a DE for touching up spots. My neck is tricky with any razor, so I'd rather touch it up than slice it up.

Thanks for the tips all, especially slash for the great write up (and, youtube videos). The spray bottle with water is a must have

Congratulations. I like reading stories like this.

If you find yourself enjoying the experience of using film, you might want to try some diamond lapping film sometime. It last about 5 times longer and hones about 3 times faster, or more.

Good luck.

--james

 

[nymtber]

Well, I shaved today. Right side of face was not too bad, but I don't know if its the hollow grind or if I need to work the edge more, but it seemed to be much harder to shave than my Feather AC SS with Pro-guard. This razor is also a squared off toe, and I either need to round that or find a rounded toe razor... I got bit, slightly (healed up on its own, no big deal).

It DID, however shave right down quick. But It wasn't as smooth as I'd hoped. I grabbed the NEW earlier than I thought I would, but better safe than sorry. Of course...I also worked out before shaving, so the arms were tired and the NEW is proven and safe.

Might round the tip and run it back over 1µm film a bit, see if I can't smooth it out some. I was pretty tired when I honed it, so...

But I'm learning. Slowly.

 

[Slash McCoy]

I finally got some lapping film... Found an ebay auction with buy now for $25 shipped for a full lapping film set up (12, 5, 3 and 1µm), and a practically new Whipped Dog "Poor man's strop kit"! I figured, can't go wrong at that price! Sure, its not the full lapping film available on Amazon for about $11, but for practically nothing, I got at least a full sheet of each grit size, most was cut up, but I found enough I have 2-3 usable pieces of each, some grits more. I'm good for more razors than I'm likely to own!

So tonight I honed my first ever straight razor: a W&G from probably 30's or 40's I got for $5 years back at the antique store, that had a decent edge on it already. I worked my way through using Slash's instructions, and finished up with about 30 laps each on .3µm pasted balsa and .1µm pasted balsa (the WD kit), then probably 25 laps on the poor mans strop.

Result? Passes all HHT tests up and down the blade, and tree-tops arm hairs with ease. HHT is as good as my Feather AC SS with 2 shaves on a blade, so the blade is no where near worn yet. I consider that GREAT for a first attempt! I'll find out more tomorrow when I shave. I'll have the NEW on standby, I always have a DE for touching up spots. My neck is tricky with any razor, so I'd rather touch it up than slice it up.

Thanks for the tips all, especially slash for the great write up (and, youtube videos). The spray bottle with water is a must have

Congratulations! It is very gratifying to see someone's first honing come out so good. And thanks for bumping this old thread. It can still help out a lot of honing newbies and wannabes.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Well, I shaved today. Right side of face was not too bad, but I don't know if its the hollow grind or if I need to work the edge more, but it seemed to be much harder to shave than my Feather AC SS with Pro-guard. This razor is also a squared off toe, and I either need to round that or find a rounded toe razor... I got bit, slightly (healed up on its own, no big deal).

It DID, however shave right down quick. But It wasn't as smooth as I'd hoped. I grabbed the NEW earlier than I thought I would, but better safe than sorry. Of course...I also worked out before shaving, so the arms were tired and the NEW is proven and safe.

Might round the tip and run it back over 1µm film a bit, see if I can't smooth it out some. I was pretty tired when I honed it, so...

But I'm learning. Slowly.

If you have an extra hanging leather strop that you don't mind "ruining" with paste, try pasting it lightly with your red paste and going about 100 light laps on it and then a couple dozen on linen and a good 50 or so on clean leather. The theory behind that is it should introduce a slight convex it to the edge and be more comfortable, at some small sacrifice of cutting power.

Also if you have a USB microscope, a recommended purchase, pics of the edge might reveal faults that you would otherwise not be aware of.

Be sure to use a good X stroke when stropping.

 

[nymtber]

If you have an extra hanging leather strop that you don't mind "ruining" with paste, try pasting it lightly with your red paste and going about 100 light laps on it and then a couple dozen on linen and a good 50 or so on clean leather. The theory behind that is it should introduce a slight convex it to the edge and be more comfortable, at some small sacrifice of cutting power.

Also if you have a USB microscope, a recommended purchase, pics of the edge might reveal faults that you would otherwise not be aware of.

Be sure to use a good X stroke when stropping.

Thanks, I appreciate comments from such a well respected straight user/honemeister

I only have a Whipped Dog "Poor man's Strop" so no spares here.

Also, no microscope at all. I might just take it to work though, I have a microscope there for inspecting parts (Optics), and that might tell ME what I'm missing.

I spent some time on balsa, LOTS of laps (didn't keep count) on the .3µm and lots more on the .1µm, then re-stropped. I got an honest to goodness difference in the ability to HHT. I guess I need to just spend more time honing. $5 razor, so its a good one to learn on!

I also noticed it still has a very weak frown to it, so I might start all over with the honing. We have 20µm 3M paper at work, I might grab a piece big enough to put on my quartz slab and re-set the bevel with that, and this time ensure I have no more frown. Its very mild, but I can just see it when looking down the edge (like checking lumber). Then I'll step back through the films I have.

But hey, I was able to shave with it. First time honing, first time with a true straight razor. I consider that a win!

 

[Chaloney]

More strokes in the strop and a flatter angle between the blade and your face are likely to help as well. It's hard to know whether it's the edge or your technique since you are new to both honing and shaving with a straight (the feather is similar but not the same, especially in regards to the blade angle)

 

[paintflinger]

So I've been honing a GD that I've taken the shoulders down such that I can hone it mostly perpendicular to the hone surface. I get it to the point that it is tree topping hairs easily and is suctioning on the .3 micron film, but after stropping I still don't find it to shave as well as a professionally honed edge. This isn't a lot of information, but do you guys think I need more time on the film or maybe my stropping needs work (or just more laps?)? Bevel is absolutely good btw. During the shave, my cheeks seemed to go fine, but the coarse and thick hair on my neck tugged horribly. I switched to a AC blade in a kami style holder and it shaved the hairs easily so it is definitely the edge and not prep.

 

[jgkeegan]

So I've been honing a GD that I've taken the shoulders down such that I can hone it mostly perpendicular to the hone surface. I get it to the point that it is tree topping hairs easily and is suctioning on the .3 micron film, but after stropping I still don't find it to shave as well as a professionally honed edge. This isn't a lot of information, but do you guys think I need more time on the film or maybe my stropping needs work (or just more laps?)? Bevel is absolutely good btw. During the shave, my cheeks seemed to go fine, but the coarse and thick hair on my neck tugged horribly. I switched to a AC blade in a kami style holder and it shaved the hairs easily so it is definitely the edge and not prep.

Perhaps the "mostly perpendicular" is the issue. Even modded GDs often have irregularities which determine how the edge of the edge lays on the hone (film). It's possible that your edge is keen in spots and not in others. Doing the same honing on a regular razor might point you in the direction of the real issue?

 

[Slash McCoy]

If you have a frown then part of the edge is not making good contact with the film. But you are getting good hht all up and down the blade? With hht3 or 4, you should have an edge that is certainly sharp enough for a decent shave.

Resetting the bevel might help or might not. How did you determine that the bevel was good? You can't just guess. And if you have a good bevel, you could have a smile but you really can't have a frown. If you reset the bevel I suggest you use the burr method so there is no question about it. Once set and verified, the bevel should never need setting again unless the edge gets damaged.

Did you use damp paper ("picopaper") under the .3u film? You really should, if you want a comfortable edge.

 

[nymtber]

If you have a frown then part of the edge is not making good contact with the film. But you are getting good hht all up and down the blade? With hht3 or 4, you should have an edge that is certainly sharp enough for a decent shave.

Resetting the bevel might help or might not. How did you determine that the bevel was good? You can't just guess. And if you have a good bevel, you could have a smile but you really can't have a frown. If you reset the bevel I suggest you use the burr method so there is no question about it. Once set and verified, the bevel should never need setting again unless the edge gets damaged.

Did you use damp paper ("picopaper") under the .3u film? You really should, if you want a comfortable edge.

I did use the "burr" method, but I was also a bit tired, so that might have played into it. Ha.

And I have 1µm film as my lowest film, but I had damp paper under it for 30 or so laps for a final finishing.

At this point I think starting over, removing what frown is there, and making sure I get the best edge is a good idea. Nothing like more practice!

 

[paintflinger]

If you have a frown then part of the edge is not making good contact with the film. But you are getting good hht all up and down the blade? With hht3 or 4, you should have an edge that is certainly sharp enough for a decent shave.

Resetting the bevel might help or might not. How did you determine that the bevel was good? You can't just guess. And if you have a good bevel, you could have a smile but you really can't have a frown. If you reset the bevel I suggest you use the burr method so there is no question about it. Once set and verified, the bevel should never need setting again unless the edge gets damaged.

Did you use damp paper ("picopaper") under the .3u film? You really should, if you want a comfortable edge.

Slash, I use the burr method as shown in your 3 part video. Also tested it via arm hair and cherry tomatoes.

I skipped the picopaper, but it wouldn't have improved anything. I think I just need some time on the film to refine the edge.

I've got another straight that I could try, but I like the weight of the GD a bit more, hence the effort being put in.

 

[Seraphim]

Spend more time on the bevel, not the finisher. You say that its good, but your shave results are actually telling you that it is not.

The key to a great shave is in the bevel set, not the fancy uber-micron finish.


You may also want to consider stopping at the 1um. I have never liked the edge off of the 0.3um stuff (personal preference).

 

[Slash McCoy]

In lieu of a microscope or even a loupe, I think it is time to try the sharpie test. I really do agree with Seraphim and suspect the bevel. You just can't have a frown and a good bevel at the same time off a flat honing surface unless you are dragging the blade off the edge of the hone, a very tricky technique and generally bad practice. Paint the edge with your sharpie and give it 3 careful laps on the bevel setter with only a slight x stroke as long as the blade can rest entirely on the honing surface. If you have a frown then one side or both sides will still have ink at the edge somewhere in the middle. The only way to fix it is to hone hone hone until it is gone. Check your heel, too, and shoulder, for abnormal wear, which indicates intrusion into the honing plane that must be either compensated for, or corrected.

 

[paintflinger]

In lieu of a microscope or even a loupe, I think it is time to try the sharpie test. I really do agree with Seraphim and suspect the bevel. You just can't have a frown and a good bevel at the same time off a flat honing surface unless you are dragging the blade off the edge of the hone, a very tricky technique and generally bad practice. Paint the edge with your sharpie and give it 3 careful laps on the bevel setter with only a slight x stroke as long as the blade can rest entirely on the honing surface. If you have a frown then one side or both sides will still have ink at the edge somewhere in the middle. The only way to fix it is to hone hone hone until it is gone. Check your heel, too, and shoulder, for abnormal wear, which indicates intrusion into the honing plane that must be either compensated for, or corrected.

Will do. I think I'm going to wait until I can grab the dremel from back home to just remove the shoulders. Taking them down enough for honing killed my 220 grit arkie.

 

[Jayber Crow]

What's a 220 grit Akie?

 

[paintflinger]

What's a 220 grit Akie?

It's for my kitchen knives. From wusthof, 240 grit and probably not an ark (I thought it said they were, but going back, all it says is water stone).

 

[Slash McCoy]

It's for my kitchen knives. From wusthof, 240 grit and probably not an ark (I thought it said they were, but going back, all it says is water stone).

Generally, if a grit size is stated, it is a synthetic and not a natural stone.

 

[Alum of Potash]

[Off-topic]Arkansas sellers do rate theirs though. 1200 grit for a black hard for example. If one were to be looking for a 220 grit Arkansas, one might settle for a medium India hone at 240 grit.[/Off-topic]

 

[Seraphim]

Please, let us not besmirch the glories of the Lapping Film thread by discussing natural stones....



Blasphemers!