Journey to find my razor preference

[blethenstrom]

Today I went back to my tried and true method of shaving and had an absolutely marvelous shave, quite possibly the best shave I've had since starting this journey.
I used the Gillette Fat-handle Post-war Tech with the 7 o'clock Super Platinum blade, the Saponificio Varesino Morado soap and the Yaqi 24mm Huskey synthetic brush.
As usual with the Tech it was an incredibly easy and effortless shave during all three passes. No tugging, just smoothness. I did get two nicks on the ATG pass on my neck. This is an area where I need to improve my technique because nicks are fairly frequent there.
In terms of quality it was near BBS with one or two minor DFS spots. Just an awesome shave overall.

As for the soap, this time I did face lathering and the result was excellent. It was very easy to build a creamy, thick lather and it created so much lather it could've been used for 6+ passes, just insane amounts of lather.
I also felt like the lather soothed the skin a bit when I applied it before the second and third pass, something I've not experienced with previous soaps.
First impression are first impressions, but I sincerely hope this keeps up.

And it's been a while since I shared one of my razor purchases, so let's share.
This was another purchase where I took a flyer on a razor with no info, bad photos and it looked like there might be a piece missing. But I got it for next to nothing so why not buy it... Anyway, here goes:

It is unmarked, but it looks a lot like the Gillette Old Type Vest Pocket razor. The strange things is that it is unmarked since by the 1920's it seems the razors were always branded while the earliest Gillette Old Type did not seem to have the Gillette markings on the baseplate.
There are very minor differences between the example shown on Mr-Razor and this one though, so perhaps it is just an unknown copy. Who knows.
I've tried cleaning it by soaking it in hot soapy water and scrubbing with a toothbrush which helped, but it is still quite dirty and I'll gladly accept suggestions on how to clean this.

First on the neck issues. I had some issues with my neck as well in the beginning and what I found is that have to do another full pass on the neck to get it where I want it. I found if I go to ATG to quickly and there is excessive stubble left I would get irritated. I actually do WTG, XTG, XTG and then ATG. Each pass reduces the stubble which leaves just a little bit left for the ATG.

Very nice razor! As far as cleaning it. I saw you used a toothbrush. Did you try using tooth paste with the toothbrush? Tooth paste is every so slightly abrasive and may help get rid of some of that and be safe at the same time. I was going to recommend bar keepers friend but I'm not sure you can get that in Sweden.

 

[Ohjay]

Thanks for the cleaning tip. I did not use toothpaste, but that is a good idea and one to try.

As for the neck, yeah if I want BBS I generally have to do two ATG passes on a couple of spots, but perhaps your way is better to avoid irritation and nicks. I'll also check the growth direction again and see if I need to do adjustments, that could be another cause for the issues shaving the neck area.
The strange thing is it feels like half my neck grows one way and the other half in the opposite direction. Makes no sense, but who said hair growth should make sense?

 

[blethenstrom]

Thanks for the cleaning tip. I did not use toothpaste, but that is a good idea and one to try.

As for the neck, yeah if I want BBS I generally have to do two ATG passes on a couple of spots, but perhaps your way is better to avoid irritation and nicks. I'll also check the growth direction again and see if I need to do adjustments, that could be another cause for the issues shaving the neck area.
The strange thing is it feels like half my neck grows one way and the other half in the opposite direction. Makes no sense, but who said hair growth should make sense?

Oh yes neck hair grows in strange directions. My left and right sides are different as well. For example on my throat close to the chin the hair grows down, but close to the Adam's apple it grows up. It is strange. Checking the growth direction will certainly tell you the story.

 

[Ohjay]

Another day, another shave.
Once again the Post-war Tech with the Super Platinum blade. Used the Morado soap as well but changed brush to the Yaqi 24mm Sagrada Familia.
As with the last shave I got excellent lather and I'm beginning to really like this soap. So far I've only used synthetic brushes but think I will try a badger brush next time.

As for the shave it was a smooth, easy and effortless shave once again. The Tech really is a very easy razor to shave with and it does give fairly good results.
I did a minor change this time though and I did two XTG passes on my neck, one left to right and one right to left. It didn't really make a difference though. The quality was the same and I got a couple of nicks on the ATG pass. I was thinking of skipping the ATG pass on the neck but it did not feel as smooth as I wanted so I did it anyway.
The rest of the face got very smooth but not quite as much as last shave, so a very good DFS+ shave at least.

I think I'll use the Post-war Tech for a few more shaves but have yet to decide which blade to use. But it will probably be one of the sharper ones since those are the types of blades I tend to favor.

 

[Ohjay]

Hmm, seems like I forgot to update after the shave on Thursday. Oh well, you get two shaves today then.

On Thursday I used a new blade, the Wizamet Super Iridium I recently bought, and I stayed with the fat-handle Tech.
The shave was slightly odd and quite difficult to judge. The Tech was easy to use like always, but the shaving didn't feel as clean and smooth like it usually does. Did three passes, no weepers or nicks which was a nice surprise. Mediocre quality, somewhere between DFS and CCS, but closer to DFS.
I did fairly poorly with the lather which I suspect was the main culprit for some very mild skin irritation when I applied the aftershave balm.

The shave today was also with the Tech & Super Iridium combo and it was yet another weird shave.
On the first pass the blade, or perhaps blade and razor, "sang" occasionally. Don't really know how to describe it, but metal can have this resonance when struck or when used in specific ways. It can sometime happen when you use a saw.
On this first pass it also felt like the blade struggled with cutting the hairs, it got the job done but it didn't feel efficient, for lack of a better word.
Then something happened and on the second pass it felt like the blade came alive. It shaved smoothly and easily and it was a world of difference in the feel of the shave.
Anyway, did three passes, got two minor nicks and a better quality shave than on Thursday but it is quite uneven. Some parts are BBS, others DFS and yet some others CCS.

Jury is still out on the Super Iridiums, but so far they have been underwhelming and not at all what I expected.
Perhaps I got a dud blade, or I need to try them in a different razor. We'll see, but I will use them in other razors as well before giving up on them.

 

[Ohjay]

Another shave with the fat-handle Tech and the Super Iridium blades today.
As usual a very easy and effortless shave with the Tech and it felt like the blade performed slightly better from the first pass.
Did three passes and quality was once again somewhere between DFS and CCS. Skin feels slightly sensitive to the touch after the shave, which hasn't really happened before with this blade.
I got a bit careless on the ATG pass and got a weeper on my upper lip, and as usual a pair of minor nicks.

Not sure if it is the fat-handle Tech or the blades I've used with it, but I don't get the close shaves I've gotten with other razors during this journey, and the stubble comes back quicker because of this. If it is the razor, then that is the only disappointing thing I have to say about this Tech. Granted, I would like it to be heavier, but the difference is so small between the fat-handle and brass Tech that it shouldn't matter.

I could probably have used the Super Iridium blade for a few more shaves, but I discarded it today as three shaves will be the limit during this journey.
Not sure what I'll try next, another blade in the fat-handle Tech or if I should swap razor again. I'm toying with the idea of trying an open comb razor again, perhaps the Gillette Old Type I shared a few weeks back. Oh well, a decision for another day.

 

[blethenstrom]

Another shave with the fat-handle Tech and the Super Iridium blades today.
As usual a very easy and effortless shave with the Tech and it felt like the blade performed slightly better from the first pass.
Did three passes and quality was once again somewhere between DFS and CCS. Skin feels slightly sensitive to the touch after the shave, which hasn't really happened before with this blade.
I got a bit careless on the ATG pass and got a weeper on my upper lip, and as usual a pair of minor nicks.

Not sure if it is the fat-handle Tech or the blades I've used with it, but I don't get the close shaves I've gotten with other razors during this journey, and the stubble comes back quicker because of this. If it is the razor, then that is the only disappointing thing I have to say about this Tech. Granted, I would like it to be heavier, but the difference is so small between the fat-handle and brass Tech that it shouldn't matter.

I could probably have used the Super Iridium blade for a few more shaves, but I discarded it today as three shaves will be the limit during this journey.
Not sure what I'll try next, another blade in the fat-handle Tech or if I should swap razor again. I'm toying with the idea of trying an open comb razor again, perhaps the Gillette Old Type I shared a few weeks back. Oh well, a decision for another day.

How much have you played with the angles that you shave with? Personally for myself when I discovered shallow (riding the cap) shaving things got much better. Maybe you need to experiment a bit with the tech and angles. I only have a ball-end Tech myself, but it can shave in pretty wide range of angles.

 

[Ohjay]

How much have you played with the angles that you shave with? Personally for myself when I discovered shallow (riding the cap) shaving things got much better. Maybe you need to experiment a bit with the tech and angles. I only have a ball-end Tech myself, but it can shave in pretty wide range of angles.

I play a bit with the angles, especially when I try a new razor. But the more I use one, the less I tend to play with the angles.
It could be worth doing I think, in case I actually developed slightly bad habits with a razor.
I'll definitely keep it in mind.

Yesterday I had a marvelous shave, one of the better ones since starting this journey.

I kept the Fat-handle Tech but tried a new blade, which was supposed to be quite sharp, the Gillette Nacet.
The blade definitely lived up to it's reputation as a sharp blade and definitely the sharpest of the ones I've tried, apart from the Feather of course. The Feather is sharper but the Nacet is a close second.
Great comfort during the shave and as the norm has been with the Tech, an easy and effortless shave.
Three passes and a couple of nicks that didn't really show until I was done. Thinking about it now, I sort of realize that many of my nicks tend to happen in the same area, on the right side of my neck. Something to keep in mind and perhaps play a bit with shave angles and perhaps direction as well.
Either way, it was a great quality shave as well. A couple of spots where I could feel the tiniest hint of stubble but the rest was baby smooth. It's now been approximately 24 hours since the shave and I have less stubble in that timeframe than I got with the other razors, so it was definitely a closer shave as well.

 

[Ohjay]

Planned to do an update yesterday but the forum kept failing to load. Oh well, you get another two-for-one special today instead

The shave last sunday was another excellent one with the fat-handle Tech and Nacet blade.
Very comfortable shave and as per usual very easy and effortless. Did three and a half passes where the extra half-pass was to clean up a couple of spots on the neck. Near BBS quality, or well, entire face and neck was BBS apart from one small spot which was DFS.
No nicks or weepers which I mainly attribute to me thinking a bit more about what I was doing, taking my time and being careful. I also played around a bit more with the angles which I think helped.

Then there was another shave this morning, once again with the fat-handle Tech and Nacet blade.
I only did two passes this time. I had done some exercising prior to shaving and I have neglected the exercising for far too long so my muscles were sore afterwards and even the slightest strain caused minor muscle tremors. So I didn't dare do a third pass (ATG) in case my hand would shake slightly.
Anyway, shave was smooth despite this and the normal easy and effortless shave that the Tech keeps on providing.
Due to the two passes the shave quality wasn't great, CCS perhaps, but once again no nicks or weepers.

The Nacet blade could probably be used for one or two more shaves, at least, but it's time to swap and try something new.
I think I'll change razor as well for the next shave and get back to evaluating what might be my razor preference.

 

[blethenstrom]

Planned to do an update yesterday but the forum kept failing to load. Oh well, you get another two-for-one special today instead

The shave last sunday was another excellent one with the fat-handle Tech and Nacet blade.
Very comfortable shave and as per usual very easy and effortless. Did three and a half passes where the extra half-pass was to clean up a couple of spots on the neck. Near BBS quality, or well, entire face and neck was BBS apart from one small spot which was DFS.
No nicks or weepers which I mainly attribute to me thinking a bit more about what I was doing, taking my time and being careful. I also played around a bit more with the angles which I think helped.

Then there was another shave this morning, once again with the fat-handle Tech and Nacet blade.
I only did two passes this time. I had done some exercising prior to shaving and I have neglected the exercising for far too long so my muscles were sore afterwards and even the slightest strain caused minor muscle tremors. So I didn't dare do a third pass (ATG) in case my hand would shake slightly.
Anyway, shave was smooth despite this and the normal easy and effortless shave that the Tech keeps on providing.
Due to the two passes the shave quality wasn't great, CCS perhaps, but once again no nicks or weepers.

The Nacet blade could probably be used for one or two more shaves, at least, but it's time to swap and try something new.
I think I'll change razor as well for the next shave and get back to evaluating what might be my razor preference.

I am really happy that you had some good weeper/nick free shaves. I think what you are doing and staying with the same razor for a while is helping. Sounds like you are heading in the right direction.

 

[Ohjay]

I'm definitely slacking with regards to do shave updates.
Will have to try and get back to doing them on the day of the shave.

Tried the supposed Gillette Old Type two days ago with a Derby Extra blade.
Hoping to have learned something from using the NEW LC I decided to go with a less sharp blade, but one I have used in the past. I also decided to only do two passes.
It was a fairly comfortable shave and no real struggles. Due to only two passes the quality was mediocre, I would probably say CCS.
But there was something new with this razor that I haven't experienced before, smell.

I distinctly remember cleaning this razor, but as the metal heated up (I warm the razor in hot water before/between passes) it started to smell, and not a pleasant smell at all. It actually smelled so bad I just wanted to be done with the shave as quickly as possible.
I've tried cleaning it again and even using toothpaste to clean/polish it, but I can tell that it still smells. It is faint when it is cold but I suspect it will be pungent again if I warm it up.
I think I will put this particular razor on hold and try to get some Isopropyl alcohol or similar to see if that will help with the smell.

 

[Ohjay]

As mentioned in the last update, I did put the Old Type on hold. The funky smell is just too much for me and detracts from the shaving experience.
So, during yesterdays shave I actually went back to the Merkur 34C and paired it with the Derby Extra blade I used in the Old Type.

After using various vintage razors for a few months it was quite startling to use the Merkur again. I started this journey because there was something about the 34C that just didn't sit right with me and that feeling still exist. Now, don't get me wrong. The Merkur is a good shaver but it is missing something, or perhaps it has some characteristics that I don't like, but I still can't really say what that is.
Anyway, only did two passes and it was a fairly comfortable shave but I didn't feel like it cut as nicely or glided as fine as most of the vintage razors. Lather was fine so I don't think that affected things.
Shave quality was not great, maybe a bit better than SAS and I messed up and actually had one or two spots with visible stubble left. Can't really put that on the razor, but at the same time the other razors I've tried would've probably gotten rid of most of that stubble.
No nicks or weepers though, so that's something.

I'll use the Merkur for one more shave, then it's back to the old razors again.
We'll see which one it'll be, and I also need to share the remainder of the purchased razors that I haven't shown you guys.

 

[thombrogan]

I also need to share the remainder of the purchased razors that I haven't shown you guys.

Please don’t feel obligated, but I happily look forward to viewing the spoils of your wetshaving toys.

 

[Guido75]

I think what you are smelling (I am guessing here) is the smell of bare brass. That does have a distinct smell to it. I vaguely smell it too when using my Karve CB. You could have it replated again by Chris from Back Road Gold and be gone with the smell. I used Brasso on my Old Type and that also helped reduce or get rid of its smell.

Another vintage I have also is bare brass and particularly the handle has that metallic smell. Fortunately that handle is simply to thin for me so I swapped it with one of my miracle resin handles.

It would be a shame if the smell would prevent you from using one of the best razors ever made that can provide a comfortable and superclose shave once you have dialled in angle and touch.

Cheers,

Guido.

PS: and as Thom said - no obligations - but we love pictures!!

 

[Ohjay]

Please don’t feel obligated, but I happily look forward to viewing the spoils of your wetshaving toys.

Sharing is part of the fun so I definitely don't feel obligated. Next time I post will hopefully contain a new razor.

I think what you are smelling (I am guessing here) is the smell of bare brass. That does have a distinct smell to it. I vaguely smell it too when using my Karve CB. You could have it replated again by Chris from Back Road Gold and be gone with the smell. I used Brasso on my Old Type and that also helped reduce or get rid of its smell.

Another vintage I have also is bare brass and particularly the handle has that metallic smell. Fortunately that handle is simply to thin for me so I swapped it with one of my miracle resin handles.

It would be a shame if the smell would prevent you from using one of the best razors ever made that can provide a comfortable and superclose shave once you have dialled in angle and touch.

Cheers,

Guido.

PS: and as Thom said - no obligations - but we love pictures!!

No, i don't think it's the smell of bare brass unfortunately. I don't mind metallic smells but the handle on this razor smells like something died, or something that has been rotting for a long, long time. Maybe that's a bit harsh description but it's definitely more of an organic smell rather than metallic.
Just going from memory now from the last time I cleaned it but didn't really get much smell (if any) from the head or base plate, most of it comes from the handle.

I also have the travel razor which I think is an Old Type, so I can probably use that one to give the Old Type a fair try. And who knows, maybe I stumble upon another to buy


And once again I've been slacking with the updates.
Did a shave on the 1st of January with the Merkur 34C and the Derby blade. Three passes, a couple of nicks. Fairly decent shave, about DFS quality. But it was not a very close shave as the stubble came back quicker than it has done with the vintage razors.
I also had the same experience again that the razor didn't glide as well, and I didn't think of it but the Merkur feels "dead", but more on that later.
So yeah, based on my experiences so far the Merkur is not even close to my razor preference despite having used it for several years. Now to figure out what I actually like and which parameters to look for. The journey goes on in 2024.

Then a new shave today, with a new razor and a new blade. I shared the razor about a month ago, a Gillette Super-speed:

Blade was Rapira Super Stainless which I've never tried before.
Three passes and fittingly enough also three nicksrolleyes1). The nicks were in the same area as I always tend to get them, on the right side of the neck/chin a bit below the jaw. I think I need to adjust the shaving pattern there and do an extra pass before the ATG pass because it's always ATG that gives me nicks there.
Anyway, fairly decent shave and quality was a bit less than DFS but better than CCS.
As can be seen in the picture I went back to the Captain Fawcett Scapicchio's Fig soap after having used Saponificio for a good while and the lather quality with the Fawcett was not even close to what I get with the Saponificio soaps. Very light and runny and it dried out quickly, so this definitely affected the quality and feel of the shave.
But speaking of feel, I mentioned that I think the Merkur feels "dead" and I realized this during the shave today. The Super-speed kept "talking" to me during the entire shave. Whether it be through feel or aural feedback it kept telling me how it was performing and exactly what it was doing. I think this has been true for most, if not all, of the vintage razors. This is a feature I really appreciate in a razor and it helps tremendously with adjusting during the shaving.

The Rocket and Super-speed are very similar razors, but based on this very small sample size I definitely prefer the Super-speed. We'll see if that opinion lasts after a few more shaves with the Super-speed.

 

[Guido75]

it's definitely more of an organic smell rather than metallic.
Just going from memory now from the last time I cleaned it but didn't really get much smell (if any) from the head or base plate, most of it comes from the handle.

Ok! Weird. I have a strange theory maybe - that handle might likely be hollow (most of them of that era are). Would it be a crazy idea that soap or something might have installed itself in the handle? But I presume you have already cleaned the handle too or had it soaking.

Other than that. Weird is what I can come up with.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[Ohjay]

Ok! Weird. I have a strange theory maybe - that handle might likely be hollow (most of them of that era are). Would it be a crazy idea that soap or something might have installed itself in the handle? But I presume you have already cleaned the handle too or had it soaking.

Other than that. Weird is what I can come up with.

Cheers,

Guido

Yeah, I cleaned the handle and it's not hollow, so it's not that either.
I dunno, maybe it's the red resin, or whatever it is, that smells. I'll try to clean the metal with some isopropyl and see if it improves.

I felt like I regressed during todays shave, all part of the learning/growing experience I guess.
Used the Super-speed with the Rapira Super-stainless blades. Three passes with an extra pass on the trouble-spot on my neck.
Fairly comfortable shave but got two bad weepers and also two nicks. The extra pass on the troublesome neck area did not help unfortunately.
Quality wasn't great, just about CCS.
Dunno what changed but I caught myself rushing a bit, perhaps that was the cause.

And as promised, time to show a new razor. This one was another one that came in that very first batch of razors I bought.

Another Gillette Rocket Flaretip, this one is marked with an S though and my other ones has a II mark.
Can't quite remember right now, but I think the marking makes the two razors slightly different in terms of aggressiveness.
Not a high priority to try this one just yet, but would be interesting to compare the two Rockets side by side.

 

[Guido75]

@Alum Ladd or @nemo are much better at this than I am, but I think the II means this is a Rocket Parat as opposed to a regular Rocket. Cannot remember what the deal with the S was.

Cheers - and enjoy these y fine razors!!

Guido

 

[Alum Ladd]

Yeah, I cleaned the handle and it's not hollow, so it's not that either.
I dunno, maybe it's the red resin, or whatever it is, that smells. I'll try to clean the metal with some isopropyl and see if it improves.

I felt like I regressed during todays shave, all part of the learning/growing experience I guess.
Used the Super-speed with the Rapira Super-stainless blades. Three passes with an extra pass on the trouble-spot on my neck.
Fairly comfortable shave but got two bad weepers and also two nicks. The extra pass on the troublesome neck area did not help unfortunately.
Quality wasn't great, just about CCS.
Dunno what changed but I caught myself rushing a bit, perhaps that was the cause.

And as promised, time to show a new razor. This one was another one that came in that very first batch of razors I bought.

Another Gillette Rocket Flaretip, this one is marked with an S though and my other ones has a II mark.
Can't quite remember right now, but I think the marking makes the two razors slightly different in terms of aggressiveness.
Not a high priority to try this one just yet, but would be interesting to compare the two Rockets side by side.

About 1957-8 Gillette England began stamping razors with a I to III scale of efficiency indicator. The II is seen on post 58 English Flaretip Gillettes and other TTO's. The English Red Tip Rocket and Super Speed variants had a III marking. Oddly Gillette England never bothered to grade the Tech.

The 'S' is new to me. No idea on that.

Guido's @Guido75 hunch on some tallow or animal fat-based remnant getting into the inner workings sounds right.

I would soak in hot water with liberal squirts of dishwashing liquid repeatedly (unsure if you have tried that) to try and shift soap remnants.

Afterwards, open the TTO stand it upright on its handle and drop copious amounts of dishwahing liquid on the hole in the TTO head where the razor blade bar is connected. That should make it's way into the handle and break up the soap. Leave 30 minutes to an hour. Then run very hot water on the upright open TTO hole and soak again as above.

 

[Ohjay]

Thanks for the input @Guido75 and @Alum Ladd.

I would have to go digging again because I can't remember the details. If S marking came before/after the I/II/III markings and was another way of marking efficiency or if one of the efficiency grades were replaced with the S marking.
If I come up with anything I'll let you know.

As far as the cleaning, I think you are confusing razors @Alum Ladd. The smelly one is my Gillette Old Type which is not a TTO razor.
And yes, I have soaked it in hot water that contain dishwashing liquid several times but it does not seem to help unfortunately.
I've scrubbed it in hot water with a toothbrush after the soaking and even tried using toothpaste to buff it, but the smell is still there.


Another shave today with the Super-speed and Rapira blade.
Comfortable shave with no nicks or weepers, but very uninspiring and I didn't feel like the blade was doing a good enough job so I just did two passes (WTG/XTG) to avoid any mistakes.
Because of that the quality wasn't great. Better than SAS but worse than CCS. This razor & blade combo is really not doing it for me so it's time to move on. Will use the Super-speed with a sharper blade next time and since Feather is my reference point that might be what I go back to.
It is kinda hard to evaluate the razors when I use different blades in each razor, but at the same time the Feather is such an unforgiving blade that it might not be the best to use in a new, to me, razor as the first blade.
I'll think on it, maybe Astra is a good compromise and a blade I have used a fair bit but not really felt like it did a good enough job in the Merkur 34C.