Expensive repair of an old riding mower; fix it or get a new one?

[kingfisher]

I have had a John Deere 42-inch riding lawn mower for about 10 or 11 years now. A couple of weeks ago I stupidly ran over the cover to our Verizon Fios hole in the yard, and tore it into a hundred pieces. It also made it so the blades would no longer rotate, so the mower no longer works.

I had the John Deere people pick it up and give it a look-see. They called today to tell me that it would cost $500 to fix it!

So, here's the question: Would you put $500 into a mower that old, or would you look for a new one?

It's an entry-level John Deere, I think the model number is 105. It has a 17 hp Briggs and Stratton engine. I bought it new and have been the only owner. I've kept up with oil changes, fuel filter changes, etc., etc., so I know exactly what the mower has been through and how it's been kept. My only problem with the mower has been that it is slightly underpowered for my lawn, which is long fescue and very thick. Otherwise it has been a great mower.

So, what do you think? Thanks in advance for any thoughts.

 

[bberg100]

Tough call. I am limping an old (very used when I bought it with the house 6 years ago) Craftsman along. Replacement with a GOOD unit is around $2K, so far the most I've spent keeping this one going is about $200 a year. I've replace both spindles at least once, welded the deck twice, belts, blades, etc. All these items are consumables so even a new mower is going to require them periodically, well, maybe not welding the deck - darn thing was only spot welded and wack a stump or two... Tranny is starting to act up, needs new tires. Maybe shop the year end sales next month, or keep this one limping until it smokes. I can say without a doubt the new one won't be Craftsman.

I have a lot of trees, the zero-turn mowers look sweet. The new JD and Husqvarna with the reverse peddle also look interesting.

Oh, back to your question. You say its 10+ years and you are not real happy with its performance on your lawn. Go for the new one, you know you want it. What can you sell the old one for if it is fixed? I rather doubt it would fetch $500. What if sold for parts? Trade-in?

 

[12345Michael54321]

I know almost nothing about lawn mowers, so my suggestion is based on general principles, and may therefore not apply perfectly to your specific situation -

Go look on craigslist, at sold listings on eBay, at the trade-in area of your local lawn/garden/farm store, in the local Pennysaver, etc.

Examine the prices for which used rider mowers, roughly similar to yours, in good working condition, sell. (Bearing in mind that an asking price is not always the same as a selling price.)

If such mowers generally go for $1000 and up, then dropping $500 to bring yours back to good working order may make solid financial sense.

On the other hand, if they seem to be selling for $400, why pay $500 to get your currently broken mower up to their level? Seems it'd make more sense to sell your mower for whatever it might bring (and I assume that even broken, it's worth something, if only as parts or a project or whatever), and buy a working condition used mower.

Heck, you say your model has been a little underpowered for your needs. Maybe $500-700 would buy you a 42" rider mower with a bit more power. I don't know.

 

[Copierguy]

If it still runs good otherwise and you could use it as a mule to pull a cart full time and could use something bigger to mow with....

I know that sentence had a few ifs and ands, but its hard to have too many tractors. Personally there are times when I wish I had a choice of big, medium and small.
I live out where the cows moo and find myself dragging downed trees, plowing roads and drives, mowing fields etc. The more tractors you have to choose from the better. Also there are social advantages, I've found that the bigger your tractor, the more friends you have.

 

[esswun]

Try to swing one of those made in the USA Scag mowers.

 

[Phog Allen]

Is this one of the models sold through Home Depot? If so, then it may be a dodgy call as to replacement of parts. If it is a regular John Deere model from their dealer lineup then I would price a comparable model for replacement and see if the difference makes the decision for you.

Your description of the performance is very common these days. It is almost like the mowers are sold with the engine of choice and the rest of the machine is put together around it. Usually with no long term use in mind. Even for the 'good brands' like Deere. Sadly, all the true garden tractor manufacturers of old are nearly gone. Cub Cadet, Wheel Horse, Bolens, Simplicicty, and a few others exist mostly in name these days. It is absolutely frightening what some of the old cast iron monsters bring these days. And they still need a compete rebuilding. Since there is no true good-but-not-the-best left anymore, you either seem forced into essentially a disposable model or an all out John Deere or Kubota in a tractor style.

Zero turns are beyond incredible to use(twelve years experience for me back in my yute)but beware, the lower end of them are just as problem prone as the tractors and they are just as expensive or more so to fix. Oi, nothing can be easy these days.

 

[kingfisher]

Thanks, guys. I think I'm gonna suck it up and pay the repair bill. New ones are just too expensive. Used ones around here I don't know how much they've been abused. At least with my tractor I know exactly what I'm getting.

 

[realdog4]

How many additional years do you think you will get by fixing your current mower?

 

[DC_MPA]

Something tells me it's just the pulleys, belts and maybe a gear on the deck. If it were me, I'd ask them for a run down of what's wrong, with a list of the parts involved, then drop that deck at home and do your own repairs. Worst case if the drive shaft runs then you know it's the deck and you can toss the deck in a truck or back of an SUV to get to worked on. 10 years ago they were already making those things to where it intentionally throws a pulley or belt or gear to avoid straining and wiping out the engine. As you say, the mower runs great, so that tells me it's only the deck.

 

[DC_MPA]

On your fescue yard, sharpen your blades 2-3 times a season, and get yourself some mulching blades like these. http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/oep/g6.htm that cuts down on the fescue length when cut and pulverizes it to make the mower work less to mow. Traditional blades will slice a long blade and maybe get a few more cuts on it which can bog down the mower. The teeth on these blades take that initial cut and cut it again 2-3 times instantly before hitting the next side of the blade and cuts it again. I love these blades. Went from bagging 7-10 loaded grass clippings to 2-3 on my residential yard. My mower runs much calmer now too.

 

[Snappy Lunch]

New vs Old...... I just sold my Husqvarna zero turn. While I could cut my lawn faster with it I would rather use my 1974 Wheel Horse. It still runs like a champ. My brother gave it to me and I had to put about 200.00 into it.
With a thick lawn like yours make sure you get the fastest blade speed you can get, it makes all the difference.

 

[davent]

If the lawns always very long it needs to be cut more frequently. My understanding is no more then one third shorter then before it was cut.
dave

 

[12345Michael54321]

When the hyper-intelligent alien space lizards arrive to conquer the Earth, you puny humans will discover that lawn mowing is among the least of your problems.

Just sayin', is all.

 

[Mick]

Deere riding mowers use a pressed deck. 10 years is about the life span

Are they replacing the mower deck as part of the "fix"? IF not.... walk fast.

 

[FarmerTan]

New vs Old...... I just sold my Husqvarna zero turn. While I could cut my lawn faster with it I would rather use my 1974 Wheel Horse. It still runs like a champ. My brother gave it to me and I had to put about 200.00 into it.
With a thick lawn like yours make sure you get the fastest blade speed you can get, it makes all the difference.

Just replaced the carb in my 2004 or 05 Craftsman with a 17 HP Kohler. Runs like new. Best mower I've ever owned.
That being said, when it does give up the ghost, I'm replacing it with an ancient Gravely, or maybe an old Simplicity. They just don't make 'em like that anymore.

 

[Mick]

That being said, when it does give up the ghost, I'm replacing it with an ancient Gravely, or maybe an old Simplicity. They just don't make 'em like that anymore.

I bought this beast back in 1986.

Not even a single issue in 30 years.

3 pulls ignition off full choke. Ignition on, choke off, starts on the 4th every time. Just like my old 1951 Harley did.

I am convinced that it will out live me.

 

[StillShaving]

Sounds like a shear pin. I would definitely replace it if the motor was running strong. And maybe seek out an independent shop if you did not want to try repairing it yourself. Generic article: How to Replace Lawn Mower Flywheel Keys

 

[FarmerTan]

I bought this beast back in 1986.

Not even a single issue in 30 years.

3 pulls ignition off full choke. Ignition on, choke off, starts on the 4th every time. Just like my old 1951 Harley did.

I am convinced that it will out live me.

I'm jealous! And you're probably right in that it will outlive you. Unless you are a newborn, lol.

 

[Toothpick]

$500 is about 1/4 of what a new riding lawnmower would cost. And that is being conservative.

 

[gwsmallwood]

Go look on craigslist, at sold listings on eBay, at the trade-in area of your local lawn/garden/farm store, in the local Pennysaver, etc.

Examine the prices for which used rider mowers, roughly similar to yours, in good working condition, sell. (Bearing in mind that an asking price is not always the same as a selling price.)

If such mowers generally go for $1000 and up, then dropping $500 to bring yours back to good working order may make solid financial sense.

On the other hand, if they seem to be selling for $400, why pay $500 to get your currently broken mower up to their level? Seems it'd make more sense to sell your mower for whatever it might bring (and I assume that even broken, it's worth something, if only as parts or a project or whatever), and buy a working condition used mower.

Heck, you say your model has been a little underpowered for your needs. Maybe $500-700 would buy you a 42" rider mower with a bit more power. I don't know.

How many additional years do you think you will get by fixing your current mower?

Best answers.

I'll add that you should only consider an option if you have the cash on hand. Don't finance yard tools. EVER. Assuming you have the cash for either option, then here's some sample math. Will $500 keep this think going strong for another 5 years? If so, that's $100 / year. I'm assuming a new mower (upgraded per your preferences) will probably cost you at least $2000, and will probably last the same 10 years as the first mower. That's $200 / year. In which case, I would stick with the repairs, which looks like you plan to do.

Thanks, guys. I think I'm gonna suck it up and pay the repair bill. New ones are just too expensive. Used ones around here I don't know how much they've been abused. At least with my tractor I know exactly what I'm getting.