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Dress shirts

man, reading this thread is going to give me a complex. I have recently started cycling out clothes in my wardrobe and realized that I didn't like any of the button downs I have. This is going to result a serious acquisition disorder. Good thing my razor setup is about where I enjoy it, because The habedashery might end up being my new home.

Great links guys! a big help for guys like me getting started with this.

Never thought I'd hate my dress shirts because I didn't like the buttons. :lol: I think it'd be pretty simple to change them out though. You could even do them yourself.
 
For those of you that have been advising me, I have one mroe question:

So I'm trying to decide what to do as a beginner in all of this. I don't want to go crazy from the start. If I'm trying to keep the price in the $100 range (or less), is my best bet to buy an off the rack shirt at Paul Frederick? I think that's the conclusion based on what I've read here so far. Correct?
 
For those of you that have been advising me, I have one mroe question:

So I'm trying to decide what to do as a beginner in all of this. I don't want to go crazy from the start. If I'm trying to keep the price in the $100 range (or less), is my best bet to buy an off the rack shirt at Paul Frederick? I think that's the conclusion based on what I've read here so far. Correct?

$100 is a lot of money. You can get a custom shirt for that price. www.propercloth.com starts at $99. Hong Kong tailors will make you a shirt for $100. Why buy something OTR that may or may not fit you when you can buy something that fits you perfectly?

If your going to buy OTR, go to a store, try the shirt on, and make a decision. Personally, I know those shirts are not cut for me. The arms and waist are made for a fatter person. Even in slim/tailored fit.
 
$100 is a lot of money. You can get a custom shirt for that price. www.propercloth.com starts at $99. Hong Kong tailors will make you a shirt for $100. Why buy something OTR that may or may not fit you when you can buy something that fits you perfectly?

If your going to buy OTR, go to a store, try the shirt on, and make a decision. Personally, I know those shirts are not cut for me. The arms and waist are made for a fatter person. Even in slim/tailored fit.
Well, everyone here was saying stuff about how the shirts made in China or other countries other than UK/USA kind of suck. At least that was the hint I was getting. So how are the shirts at propercloth? Is it good material and good construction?
 
Personally, I know those shirts are not cut for me. The arms and waist are made for a fatter person. Even in slim/tailored fit.

Slim is the new fat and regular is the new obese!!:ohmy::laugh:

I'm not slim, 34 waist, and I have to wear slim fit shirts, the regular size shirts are extremely large on me. Like wearing a tent!!
 
No kidding. The regular shirts can fit someone with nearly 3x the belly that I have. You know, call me ignorant, but I didn't even know what "fitted" meant a couple of years ago. Now, I look at all my regular fit shirts and laugh. I can smuggle goods inside my shirts.
 
Well, everyone here was saying stuff about how the shirts made in China or other countries other than UK/USA kind of suck. At least that was the hint I was getting. So how are the shirts at propercloth? Is it good material and good construction?

I'd like to know whether those people recommend against it because there is no one there to measure you and make sure its done in house so its absolutely positively 110% perfect. If so, I can understand, your paying for a custom shirt, there is the desire to make it fit your body's evey eccentricity.

However, you do pay for that service. I'm fairly certain most of the tailors offering custom dress shirts locally just email the measurements to some factory somewhere and then do any alterations in house. To get someone to cut and sew the shirt in house is going to cost you a pretty penny. Its just not efficient.

In addition, where do you think those RTW shirts are coming from? They're coming from Turkey, China, Malaysia, etc. Unless your buying Charles Tyrwhit (which retail for quite a bit) or some other company that keeps the manufacturing within the US or UK, the RTW shirt is going to be made in the country with the lowest bid.

That said, if you wanted to buy a $70 shirt on sale for $35 and use the money you saved for a second shirt + alterations, that would be an efficient use of your money IMO. However, if your going to get a $100 shirt, you should get a $100 shirt that fits your body as closely as possible. I have not received my propercloth order yet, but they are made in the US and have received good recomendations from the folks of Ask Andy.
 
FYI Tyrwhit makes a "passable" to "decent" shirt, they're really on the bottom end of Savile Row as far as I know. They do sales 2-3 times a year and you can get their shirts for around $50. I'd argue that you really can't get a decent shirt for much less then $100, but I also don't think anyone really needs to spend much more then around $350. I've bought a few of everything and I can tell you there's a major difference. You'll notice little things like collar construction (and ultimately how it "wears"), buttons breaking/not, loose threads, matching shoulder seam patterns, etc...

I'd suggest buying 1-2 from lower Saville like Tyrwhit, "mid" range like Pink (although probably more marketing then substance), and "higher" but still RTW like Hilditch and Key or Harvey and Hudson, etc along with some of the usual USA suspects like Brooks and J. Press. I actually think the Brooks are excellent bang for buck, but you're stuck with "american" styling, which is an acquired taste. Somehow the brits just make it all look less like a ball and chain / adapted workwear and more of a sophisticated endeavor.

once you get a good idea of various style and quality points as you wear them, eventually go the MTM route. Some people get hung up on things like MOP buttons, box pleats, double barrel cuffs, etc. It's all just personal preference.
 
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I wanted to clarify one thing, in case it makes a difference:
The shirts I am interested in are to be worn in non-suit attires. It seems as though everywhere I'm reading about the proper shirts and stuff are talking about wearing them with suits. Where I work, a suit would be way overkill for me. So, I wear trousers, shirts, and a tie. I don't know if that makes any difference, I don't see why it would. I just wanted to point out that it's not quite as formal as a place that people wear suits everywhere. In fact, with what I'm wearing, especially if it fits well, I'll be certainly the best dressed person around. So, considering that environment, I'm looking the best bang for the buck as far as shirts go. In the $100 range or below. So far, I'm considering propercloth.com, brooks brothers, and nordstrom.

Fraser, how much are those shirts at maxwell? I couldn't find prices on the site.
 
Fraser, how much are those shirts at maxwell? I couldn't find prices on the site.

In Canada it works out to around 188CAD for 3 shirts after taxes Duties etc etc. Probably cheaper in the US as we get taxed a lot up here.

I would strongly recommend waiting for him to come for a visit so you can have a tailor measure you rather than sending in your own measurements. I have a bit of a weird body type as I am average height but have very long arms. I'm also skinny but have very broad shoulders (proportionately). The tailor really took the time to get things right and the shirts really do fit like a glove. I’m sure much better than if my wife measured me up and we sent them in. Plus once you are on file you can order any time so you only have to do it once.
 
Thanks, Fraser. Those are good prices. He visited last in September in LA. He hasn't listed when his next visit will be, but when he does, I'll definitely go. How is the quality of the shirts? Good?
 
No problem.

The quality of the fabric certainly seems alright. I don't know if it would really wow anyone in fancy circles but I get compliments on them at work whenever I order a new batch. The oldest one I have is going on two years and seems no worse for wear after getting worn once every 2 weeks at least and washed on a regular basis. The toughest part is trying to pick out the fabrics you want. Its tough to picture what a shirt will look like after only seeing a little square of fabric and there are hundreds of theses little fabric books lying around so its easy to lose the forest for the trees. They make it out to Winnipeg twice a year so I'm sure they roll into LA fairly often.
 
No problem.

The quality of the fabric certainly seems alright. I don't know if it would really wow anyone in fancy circles but I get compliments on them at work whenever I order a new batch. The oldest one I have is going on two years and seems no worse for wear after getting worn once every 2 weeks at least and washed on a regular basis. The toughest part is trying to pick out the fabrics you want. Its tough to picture what a shirt will look like after only seeing a little square of fabric and there are hundreds of theses little fabric books lying around so its easy to lose the forest for the trees. They make it out to Winnipeg twice a year so I'm sure they roll into LA fairly often.

I kind of doubt the fashionistas would notice the fabric unless they look at it up close or feel it. Not sure about you, but I don't like being petted by random people so they can feel my shirt fabric. :wink2:

Fit is the most important thing. Quality of fabric is probably next, but I'm pretty sure your the only one who's going to truly notice and care about it. Unless its super luxurious and has a nice sheen to it. But it could be a Geoffrey Beene sateen dress shirt and girls will still like it.
 
Did you look at Thomas Pink? http://www.thomaspink.com/
I used to buy them whenever I travelled through London. And the ones made in Ireland or UK really lasted for a long time.

I read several reviews that indicate that their good quality shirts, so I decided to buy a couple on sale from their website. I normally wear a 16.5/33 in Brooks Brothers but I have to move up a size to 17/35 when ordering European dress shirts. Therefore, I have to have the sleeves cut down to 33 by my tailor. Tyrwhitt offers this service for an extra $10 which is very convenient since I don't have to make a special trip to the tailor. Plus, I prefer the european collars to the normal American point collar.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
What shirt colors would go well with a navy suit?

Just about anything, actually. Stay away from shirts that are too dark, but otherwise almost anything is good. Pink will do very well.
 
I have a few questions about sizing in dress shirts.

I'm looking at the sizing guide here:
http://www.ctshirts.com/content.asp...evel2=Help&level3=Sizing%20charts for Men

and trying to decide if I am classic or slim fit, among other things.

I've got the neck and sleeve length understood, but I don't know what the difference between 16/33 and 16H33 is, other than an extra inch or so on the chest and waist.

Lastly, where would one measure the body length needed?

Thanks
 
Just curious here, and it might be a personal question for some, for those that have bought tailored clothes, in this case shirts, and lost weight is it reasonable or possible to get a tailor to reduce the size? I'd imagine reducing size is possible, just not so much the other way.
 
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