What's new

Dress shirts

I second Charles Tyrwhitt shirts, lots of different fabrics and styles with the ability to choose between a double button barrel cuff or french cuffs.

I only see single or french cuffs options when I order. Are all their single cuffs double button barrel cuffs?
 
The French cuff or the double button barrel cuff are way more elegant and "finished" than the adjustable cuff. If you're popping for a nice shirt from them, that's the way to go.

If you look at almost any high end shirt, it will never have the cuff with two buttons side by side and it will not have a breast pocket..
 
The lack of a breast pocket is considered more formal. Less practicality/comfort = more formal.

I might even say you would look a little out of place wearing a pocket-less shirt on its own. And with the jacket on, no one sees the pocket anyway.
 
OK, I'm new to this whole tailored shirt thing. The problem is I'm a slim or athletic fit, with a 15.5-16 neck and 36/37 arms. I will never find a slim fit shirt with those sizes ever in the budget or sale rack at macy's or anywhere else. So, usually i compromise on the arm length and get shorter. But I hate the short arms because it looks stupid.

So, I'm looking into tailored shirts. I'm having a hard time dealing with the minimum price which seems to be ~$100!! Yikes. How many shirts do I need so people who see me every day don't notice I'm repeating shirts? 5? 10? is there somewhere to buy cheaper shirts, or is this just a cost I have to suck up if I want to look pretty good?

I'm 31, so it's becoming more important to look like an adult. Plus, in my job I'm having more responsibilities, more meetings, etc. I'm changing everything.

Any advice along these lines is appreciated. if I need to suck it up, i will.
 
Gents,
Anyone order from Paul frederick? I know few have got charles tyrwhitt shirts.

I order almost all of my shirts from Paul Frederick. I like both their low ens shirts and there expensive shirts as well. You also can't go wrong with Brooks Brothers.

The way my father explained the cotton issue to me was that the high the thread count, the heavier and finer the make of the shirt. Almost like bed sheets in that the higher the thread count the softer and smoother the product.
 

Doc4

Stumpy in cold weather
Staff member
How many shirts do I need so people who see me every day don't notice I'm repeating shirts? 5? 10? is there somewhere to buy cheaper shirts, or is this just a cost I have to suck up if I want to look pretty good?

Minimum, 2 shirts (one to wear and one to wash), both white. (White shirts you can wear forever ... it's the colours and stripes &c that people notice.)

Ideally, if you have 4 white shirts and one other (light blue is a safe choice, but pink or striped of some sort or whatever) will get you through the work week ... do laundry on the weekend ... repeat ... forever! :wink2:

Yo can go cheap-ish without too much worry ... if you are the sort who keeps his suit jacket on during the day. If that's the case, people just look at your collar (so make sure it's a good collar) and a bit at the front of your shirt and your cuffs (so make sure the sleeves are the right length.)
 
I would seriously consider a custom shirt.

+1

They may run a little more ~$100-180 than an off-the-rack shirt, but just three or four basic colors (white, light blue, etc.) can be paired with several different pants, ties, etc. to make it look like dozens of different outfits.

Not to mention they'll look much better and more professional, fit and feel more comfortable, and with a little care will last quite a long time (unless Krispy Kreme becomes a thrice weekly habit, then all bets are off).

I too have become VERY frustrated in trying to find proper fitting shirts in dept. stores (I'm 5' 10" with a 16.5 neck and a 32" waist - seems all shirts, pants, etc. these days are geared toward guys with 36" to 48" waists - I blame it on America's obesity problem) and am just starting to look in to tailored shirts as well.
 
The only dress shirts I will buy are J.Press shirts. They're not cheap, but they are made in America and the quality is very good. My favorite are the royal oxford shirts with the regular collar. They fit me well, and I doubt I could get a better fit if I went to an MTM shirt outlet. YMMV.

Most of the so-called "english" shirts that are so in vogue these days are actually made in China and places like that.

I would stay away from online "custom shirtmakers". You get what you pay for and in most cases you're going to get shirts that don't fit right made with crummy fabric. A few guys luck out with some of these places but they are in the minority. If you can afford a proper shirtmaker that makes shirts in house (expensive) do it, but otherwise you are probably better off buying off the rack and have your shirts taken in slightly or just trying out several different brands until you find something to your liking. Some independent men's stores and places like Brooks Brothers will offer a MTM or special order service for shirts, but unless the person who does the measuring knows what they are doing, you won't get a good fit.

Many stores and brands now offer a slim fit options in their standard, in-stock dress shirts. Unless you are anorexic, one of those brands will probably work fine and you can still have the shirt taken in a little around the waist if you need to.

Here's a tip: if you want your shirts to last a LOT longer, wash and iron them yourself. Warm water and gentle liquid detergent, then hang try. For the ring around the collar, scrub it with a bar of Colgate Octagon Laundry soap. Just make sure you rinse out the octagon well or it will turn brown when you iron your shirts. You can do an additional rinse cycle to fix that. You can also throw in some clean white towels to prevent your sleeves from getting caught in the mechanism if you have a regular top load washer. For ironing, a hot steam iron with no starch is going to make your shirts last longer. Get a water bottle with spray top and little spritz the shirt before ironing. That will give you a very nice clean pressed look without the starch or stiffness.

Oh, and if you're a younger guy, those cutaway collars and bold stripes with french cuff shirts are just going to make you look like a cheeseball more often than not. Sticking with plain white or classic light blue with regular button cuffs is a much better option, IMHO.
 
cvac, thanks! (thanks to the others also!)
But, just to be clear, what is your advice? Is my best bet to buy an in-stock shirt and then pay to adjust it? Or is it better to find a tailor to make my shirts in house? Also, how do I go about finding a good tailor? (Sorry if these are dumb questions...)

Maybe I'll start by asking my cousin and her husband, I think they're pretty into fashion stuff.
 
cvac, thanks! (thanks to the others also!)
But, just to be clear, what is your advice? Is my best bet to buy an in-stock shirt and then pay to adjust it? Or is it better to find a tailor to make my shirts in house? Also, how do I go about finding a good tailor? (Sorry if these are dumb questions...)

Maybe I'll start by asking my cousin and her husband, I think they're pretty into fashion stuff.

That is part of what he's saying. He's also saying if you can find a local person to do it for you in house, thats also an option.

Honestly, I have never heard of a horror story with online shirt companies, but completely agree about the in-house part. That person will most likely become your tailor, so the relationship is going to be worth more than the shirts you buy.

However, you say your in a money bind. Ok, this is what I would do. If you want a non-iron shirt, you should buy a custom shirt online from one of those firms that offer poly-blend shirts for $50. They usually have deals where you buy 5 and get one free or some stuff like that. While I will never go that route because I care too much about my appearance and money (I'd buy a $30 poly blend instead), a custom shirt is going to fit you vastly better than anything ready to wear. If you want a cotton shirt, you should buy one on sale. Check out Nordstrom's Rack for something good. Buy your wardrobe and have your tailor take in the sides. Make sure the shoulders and arm length are perfect. Its going to run you maybe $50-70 total, depending on your tailor and the shirt you buy, but its going to be cheaper than a fully custom shirt.

That said, I think you should find a tailor in your city you like and pay the man. If you can afford it. If you can't... not sure what to advise. I hear the Brooks Brothers extra slim fit is the slimmest shirts on the market for RTW. I also hear good things about the Boss slim fit shirts. $50 at the rack.
 
Super, how much money can you afford to spend on each shirt? A proper shirt maker that makes shirts in house is going to run pretty close to $200 per shirt or more depending on fabric. Most of the shirtmakers that advertise are not actually shirtmakers but just salesmen that send your measurements to India or Hong Kong to be made into a shirt. Then, if it doesn't fit right or you are unhappy, you are stuck. A lot of these guys are sales sharks too, and will use high pressure tactics to get you to make a large minimum order then try to convince you that everything looks great when it really doesn't.

If you must have cheap, I believe Paul Fredrick might be one of your only options for a 36 or 37 sleeve length. PF's slim fit is called "trim fit". That's what you want.They won't be the best shirts available, but they come in your size and are probably the best you can do off the rack on a budget. Depending on how well they fit, you may not need to have them tailored at all. Makes sure you get the right neck size. You want the collar to be snug but not choke you. You don't want a gap in front after you put on your tie. Look around, you'd be surprised at how many people out there do not know how to buy the right size in a shirt collar. PF used to have a liberal return policy also. Definitely check on that before ordering.

32 waist is slim, but not uncommonly super skinny. If you said 28 waist that would be a different story and almost no off the rack shirt would fit you decently. One thing to keep in mind is that dress shirts are supposed to have a little room to move and not be skin tight.

Where do you live?

For a tailor, you'll have to get recommendations from people in the know. Beware as you'll probably deal with a couple of crummy tailors before you find one you'll like. You might want to join the Ask Andy About Clothes board and find out if any members know of a good tailor in your area.

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/

If you want to dress better, a lot can be learned on boards like AAAC and from some books you can pick up cheaply or at the library. I still think John Malloy's Dress for Success is a very good book, even if some of the info is outdated. His basic information on how a suit should fit, color coordination, classic/conservative business dress, dealing with salesmen, etc. is really timeless. Alan Flusser's Dressing the Man is another great one you might want to take a look at.

I would not recommend poly blend shirts under any circumstances.
 
Last edited:
Thanks again, cvac. You're the second person to recommend that Andy website (leighton did also) so I have to check that out. I will check out those books also.

As for what I can afford, that's a hard question to answer. Technically, I can afford a few $200 shirts and I'd be perfectly fine. It's just the thought of it that kind of freaks me out. I've bout $30 shirts all my life (max). So for me, it's the psychology of dealing with the mental shock of it. So that's my honest answer to that.

So I need to chew on all that for a while. Thanks.
 
Well, tailored shirts start at $135 in my city, but only one person who I've talked to does it in house. I think. Haven't actually asked him, I'll talk to him more when I pick up my alterations.

Maybe you can get by with altering the current shirts you already own? But again, its not going to be ideal because the yoke is going to be that OTR yoke, I don't like it. I hate those pleats too. Very unsightly and annoying to iron IMHO.

Basically, your debating whether you want to look perfect or just okay. Okay is cheap, you can get by with PF or BB. But if you truly want to look your best, you've got to be willing to plunk down the cash. Theres no discount tailoring unless you go to a different country with lower labor costs, and then you lose the personal relationship with your tailor.
 
Bottom line is that you have to buy whatever you are comfortable with. Fit is key, and if a shirt fits decently and is pressed properly it will look good. I always recommend trying to buy off the rack FIRST before attempting to go MTM or custom. Even if money is no object and you can afford MTM or custom shirts, you may be better off putting that $ towards a few pairs of high quality dress shoes, some nicer suits, or some more ties.

As far as the ironing thing goes, it's not that hard to iron a shirt with a box pleat or shoulder pleats in the back. For the box pleat, it's easier to deal with if you put the fabric over the pointy part of the ironing board so the pleat lies almost completely flat. Iron over it flat then move the fabric over the board so it pops back up. Then iron on each side of the pleat. Easy.

Oh, and as far as Brooks Brothers goes, they have different levels of quality. For special order or MTM shirts, they have a factory in North Carolina that is capable of producing a good quality shirt. If you do a special order or MTM at BB, that's what you want, not the shirts that are made in Malaysia or China or wherever.

Thanks again, cvac. You're the second person to recommend that Andy website (leighton did also) so I have to check that out. I will check out those books also.

As for what I can afford, that's a hard question to answer. Technically, I can afford a few $200 shirts and I'd be perfectly fine. It's just the thought of it that kind of freaks me out. I've bout $30 shirts all my life (max). So for me, it's the psychology of dealing with the mental shock of it. So that's my honest answer to that.

So I need to chew on all that for a while. Thanks.
 
man, reading this thread is going to give me a complex. I have recently started cycling out clothes in my wardrobe and realized that I didn't like any of the button downs I have. This is going to result a serious acquisition disorder. Good thing my razor setup is about where I enjoy it, because The habedashery might end up being my new home.

Great links guys! a big help for guys like me getting started with this.
 
Top Bottom