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coti glue gave up

It's not really all that messy. You can literally do all of this on top of a flap of a cardboard box, use another flap to scrape the overrun/put it on the flats and two rubber gloves in the end you end up with some cardboard with cured epoxy on it, a coticule with a thin film of epoxy on the sides you can lap off quickly, some gloves to toss and pretty much nothing else. It beats CA to hell where one wrong move and you are glued to whatever you are doing till you get the acetone out. As far as the test goes it is more a good test for his application. If I were making an acoustic guitar out of Brazilian rosewood for example I would probably never use anything other than fish glue or hide glue and probably go with fish for longer open time just because IDK what will happen years down the line and someone might have to get a fretboard off or a neck out for a reset or deal with braces or whatever. If someone snapped a headstock off though, I would probably go with titebond for the repair and splines though.
You have experience with fish glue, isinglass, clear? If so source?
 
Isinglass is available, book binders and brewers use it. Talas sells it in raw form..
Stewmac fish glue is not Isinglass though.
 
I found some dried bladders. I had tried years ago and it was very expensive being the dried bladders of sturgeon.
I'm not going to be glueing coticules together with it.
 
It's good for stringed acoustic instruments. It's good for the luthier building the instrument because you have more open time and you can also get back in easily enough when the need arises down the line. Coticules I don't want them to ever release so I go with resin. Where I will use ca on a coti is if there's a fissure I wil let the fissure drink water thin ca until it has had its fill and then let it take however long it needs to cure without accelerating it.
 
I just hang around the dumpster at the pony club.
Legend GIF - Legend GIFs
 
It's good for stringed acoustic instruments. It's good for the luthier building the instrument because you have more open time and you can also get back in easily enough when the need arises down the line. Coticules I don't want them to ever release so I go with resin. Where I will use ca on a coti is if there's a fissure I wil let the fissure drink water thin ca until it has had its fill and then let it take however long it needs to cure without accelerating it.
It's also the traditional glue used in the construction of asiatic horn bows.
 
Had no idea it was used to make bows....

Fish Glue does have a longer set time that Hide Glue; so if that is a must then it's a good choice. Some builders have mixed feelings about it.
My main/only interest in FG is that it's good for difficult repair work when I can't remove the old glue, like on a loose brace or block or post, purfling, lifted bridge etc. With Hide or PVA the surfaces have to be cleaned first. Can't always do that so easily. Fish Glue will stick to anything though.
 
I was reading this because I just bought a coticule that has split along the glue seam, and was reminded of the time we took my Mom's cello to be repaired, something about the neck, don't remember.

I was shocked when the luthier took the strings off and used a thin knife to crack the back off to take a look at the problem, and I must have jumped or something because he laughed and said "It's fine son, we use fish glue on fine instruments so we can take them apart and repair them!". And he did, although I don't think it's a great cello.

I should probably get it out and see what condition it's in, it's been stashed in the bedroom closet for more than 30 years now.

I will probably use 5 min epoxy on the coticule when I get it, no real need to ever take that apart again! Looks like it might have been originally glued with hide glue, no history available.
 
I was reading this because I just bought a coticule that has split along the glue seam, and was reminded of the time we took my Mom's cello to be repaired, something about the neck, don't remember.

I was shocked when the luthier took the strings off and used a thin knife to crack the back off to take a look at the problem, and I must have jumped or something because he laughed and said "It's fine son, we use fish glue on fine instruments so we can take them apart and repair them!". And he did, although I don't think it's a great cello.

I should probably get it out and see what condition it's in, it's been stashed in the bedroom closet for more than 30 years now.

I will probably use 5 min epoxy on the coticule when I get it, no real need to ever take that apart again! Looks like it might have been originally glued with hide glue, no history available.
I've had good luck with loktite construction super glue(larger red tube with a black cap) and loktite ultra control gel(blue and silver plastic bottle with button's on each side).
 
Do we know when glued up coticules became a thing and what glue is Ardennes using now? I wouldn't be surprised if these vintage stones we are seeing coming apart were not glued up using casin glue. While it's not water resistant it has always been available and the stones are impermeable so it would probably be years before the glue joint failed.

In this vid from 1971 this mine is using what appears to be some kind of resin applied with a hot iron.
@ about 21:50 in...

 

Legion

Staff member
Do we know when glued up coticules became a thing and what glue is Ardennes using now? I wouldn't be surprised if these vintage stones we are seeing coming apart were not glued up using casin glue. While it's not water resistant it has always been available and the stones are impermeable so it would probably be years before the glue joint failed.

In this vid from 1971 this mine is using what appears to be some kind of resin applied with a hot iron.
@ about 21:50 in...

In the Henk Bos article he states that resin was used prior to 1980. Nowdays it's epoxy with a bit of coticle dust thrown in.
 
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