Anyone want to be a guinea pig?

I'm working on making some improvements to the electrolytic rust removal process and some additions for restoring rusted straights. I was wondering if anyone has a blade they wouldn't mind sending so I can take some before and after shots and then return it (hopefully minus the rust) back to you.

I intend to add this as a guide to the wiki once it's completed.

I might have one or two. When you say "a blade" do you mean a razor, with handle attached, or does it need to have the scales removed?

It can either have the scales attached or not. The slightly alkali solution used for this shouldn't damage scales.

Very cool. Are you doing this at home? I have an old Pipe razor that has some rust, but it has sentimental value. Maybe I should wait until you have the process dialed in.

Yup it's simple enough to do at home and can be done for less than $50 in materials (all available locally) and should save us all a lot of sanding work. You basically use electricity to convert Rust (FeO2) back to normal iron. But I agree keep things of sentimental value for now.

I would imagine a few folks around here would have a couple kicking around.
I know theres a few down at the local junk shop I could pick up for next to nothing. Good for practicing on if you'd like?

I think I may have one coming if the person can find it. It seems that around 1000 mA of current seems to work well, 300 mA was wayyy too slow and 2000 mA was too quick. You want this process to take it's time but not all year Doing further testing with the 1000 mA 12V power source.

Sorry - no rusted blades to send you but am curious to see the process and outcome.

Maybe I'll get some mad rusty razor on ebay and send it to you

If you want a couple picked up there are some in the antique shop in my local town with a far amount of rust on

Well, I spoke up too quickly. I have blades that need to be polished but nothing with rust.

I've used this process to remove rust from boat parts. It works. My total cost in parts (not counting power source) was under $10:

Wire
Steel bolt
Plastic bucket
Alligator clip
Baking Soda

I used an old jump-starter, but any 12v power supply (including a car battery) will do.

I sent pm as I have a few in various rust disasterhood.
I'd be interested in seeing the results. The before and after pics would be striking if it works.

erluko said:

I've used this process to remove rust from boat parts. It works. My total cost in parts (not counting power source) was under $10:

Click to expand...

Yup. Not expensive to do really and the science to back it up is definitely sound. Metal is a bit more expensive than it was a few years ago and the process only works with "line of sight". I've chosen to use a different material than a bolt so the blade is surrounded in 180 degrees by steel. I'm responding to a few of you who have sent PMs and we will get this train rolling

Sweet. I can't wait to see the outcome.

Well we are off to a promising start on my end. Notice the rust at the bottom of the bucket...

Lessons learned thus far:
1) Double check polarity - it's very important

Very cool! I'm interested to know how this works as far as any residual pitting left over from rust damaged steel. I assume it will remove rust but pitting is pitting. Correct?

Thank you for doing this and posting your progress. I appreciate it very much.

Chris L

Chrisl said:

I assume it will remove rust but pitting is pitting. Correct?

Click to expand...

The one blade I had to test on it actually reverted minor surface rust and associated pitting back to steel and after a brushing with a brass brush I didn't detect the pitting. Major pitting will leave a pit still present.

Oh and if you get the polarity wrong you will actually cause rusting to the blade... just the opposite of what we want.

Well guys the RAD hit bad today while on vacation in Hawaii. I found two straights to run through the rust removal process. Here are some before shots from my hotel room. They are an W&B with barbers notch with "american razor" on the blade and a W. Greaves & Sons with "Try Me One Term" on the blade. Think these should restore easily with the process but what about the edge wear on the W&B (doesn't look even)? Seems like one of the scales is also horn.

this ought to be good...