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The Rubberset 400 Club

Couldn't find a thin enough o-ring that still allowed the threads to engage more than half a turn, so no o-ring for now.

The o-rings can be a bit tough to find.

Here's where I get mine... http://www.steelnavel.com/product.asp?ID=5406&MID=1&MID2=1&A1=23&A2=26840

Apparently people use this particular type of silicone o-rings for gauges (the circular disk things people put in their ears and will likely regret doing so later on). They are 25 cents each. I like to use two of these on each brush as it gives a really nice look. You'll want the 1 inch ones and there are 11 colors to pick from. They have black as well if you do a search but they do give you four for free as a gift if you click on them and add them to your cart when you check out. You'll see where it is.

They are pretty durable but do order extra as I sometimes break one when trying to get them off after taking the brush apart. I don't take the brushes apart often but it's nice to have a couple spares.
 
Thanks for the link and the detailed explanation! I had seen those links when I was reading this thread earlier--but I had decided it was too much trouble. However, steelnavel is running a promotion with a discount and free shipping, so I went ahead and placed an order for a number of different colors.

You're welcome, I'm glad you got some as it really helps complete the brush.
 
Restoration finished. Used a Whipped Dog 24mm knot. I also kept a thin layer of the old glue so that I didn't have to construct a shelf to support the knot. First use will be tomorrow morning.
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I have to retract the statement about the knot source. Not a Whipped Dog knot. I used another vendor. I wish I had used a WD knot. The knot I used is being removed and replaced with a knot liberated from an Omega brush. I'll post pics when that is completed.
 
You're welcome, I'm glad you got some as it really helps complete the brush.

You were right! It really does help complete the brush. I'm glad I got the O-rings from steelnavel. They worked great.

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So, here is my membership photo. It is obviously the 'before'. I am just beginning the process. The one second from the right has no number. Any info on this would be appreciated.



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That's quite a collection to start! I look forward to seeing the finished products. Enjoy the experience, and please do share your results. Welcome to The Rubberset 400 Club!
 
So, here is my membership photo. It is obviously the 'before'. I am just beginning the process. The one second from the right has no number. Any info on this would be appreciated.

Wow, where did you find these? In the wild or bidding on EBay?

As far as your unnumbered one goes. Most are stamped with a three or a four but there were some that went out unnumbered. They are fairly rare when compared to the other two but they are out there. You either got one of those or a faintly stamped one that someone did a little sanding on. I suspect the former as it looks to have some age and these haven't really been popular to refinish since the last couple years.
 
Now that I have all of these separated...a question arises...does anyone lubricate these to ensure they will continue to part without wrenches? If so, with what do you lubricate?

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I'd say no need. I haven't lubricated any of my handles after putting them back together and I haven't had any trouble getting them apart again by hand. Know that taking them apart often leads to the need for a new o-ring so I wouldn't make a habit of it. I suspect the difficulty was from 50 years of not taking care of these handles like we do. They were just a tool to get the job done as they were intended for barbers when they were made so you can imagine the use they've seen.
 
What is the best way to remove the glue used to hold the knot in place?

I usually cut the old knot hair as short as I can first. A kitchen knife and a cutting board work well after taping the hair of the knot with some masking tape so that it doesn't make a huge mess. I then take the cap and set it flat on a piece of wood so that I can drill several holes through the old knot and glue. Do the drilling outside as drilling through the old glue puts off a smell you don't want in your house. I usually choose a 3/8 drill bit just because it's a good sized bit though the size of the bit isn't important. With a smaller bit just drill more holes, a larger bit and you don't have to drill as many. Just keep the drill bit away from the threads on the inside of the cap.

Once I drill a few holes through the knot I grab a screwdriver and a small hammer and chisel to chisel out the remainder of the knot and glue. The holes are just so that it breaks apart easily. I've done a few of these and two removed the knot and glue well enough that no other steps were needed. One knot the factory got a bit carried away with the glue and I had to take a Dremel to clean off the remaining glue. With your knot you'll likely be good without the Dremel.

This whole process will likely take you about five minutes or less as they come out really easy.

All of this information is in this thread already. It really is worth reading if you're going to be refinishing one of these brushes.
 
I just picked up two clone 400 handles from PAA. I'm very impressed with the fit and finish of them. My hopes are that they offer unanodized ferrules separately to fit on the original 400s. The threading does match. That would be awesome. I also hope they offer an unanodized handle/ferrule combo as well for those looking for a more "pure" aluminum look.

Per the manufacturers website:

Weight of Handle with Collar: ~97 grams (3.45oz)
Length of Handle with Collar: ~8 centimeters (3.14")
Material: 6061 Aluminum
Finish: Anodized
Method of Manufacture: CNC Lathe Turned Handle

I just took these pictures. There is either some lint on the brushes here or a lighting reflection. The anodizing looks perfect.

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