- Thread starter
- #21
Dremel
The Goods! Straight Razor Hobbyist Gallery
- Thread starter Seraphim
- Start date
Do you have any problems with heat build up?
Looks great by the way.
Looks great by the way.
- Thread starter
- #23
A light touch, and short grinds=happy temper.
I just got your "Szechuan" point with the orange frosted scales in the mail, and it is a beautiful piece of work. I haven't tried shaving with it yet, but I can tell it will work wonderfully.
Dremel
Really?
The worked back and the thumb notches both have grooves that are far larger than a fiber cut off wheel so I'm curious as to what you use. Is it a drum sander and a lot of patience at a coarse grit, or is it something else I haven't thought of?
What are you using to keep the blade stationary?
- Thread starter
- #27
All will be revealed:
All will be revealed:
Interesting. Are all of those drums diamond drums? How well do they hold up? What are those wheels at the top left?
What kinds of wheels do you use to remove rust, etc?
I'm fascinated by this. I'm also lucky enough to own a Dremel that was given to me as a gift a few years ago. I may need to look into using it for yet another project someday
.- Thread starter
- #29
Grinding wheels are the bluish looking ones on the bottom, polishing wheels at the top.
The high carbon steel eats through the grinding wheels like a snack!
The diamond wheela are a waste of money, the diamond coating comes off extremely easily, and they cost like $27 a pop.
The high carbon steel eats through the grinding wheels like a snack!
The diamond wheela are a waste of money, the diamond coating comes off extremely easily, and they cost like $27 a pop.
Okay then I'll phrase it another way
.How many grinding wheels do you go through to add a single thumb notch
.Oh and what material are those polishing wheels, they look quite large, and nice for finish polishing, but only after sanding drums are used to remove the rust (how many of those does it take too
).I'm trying to figure out how much it costs (out the door) in bits and wheels for a Dremel to restore a straight that is in fairly tired condition, and how much it costs to add notches to a straight in good condition. Your advice is extremely useful. I'm learning more now than I have in hours of trolling.
- Thread starter
- #31
Don't use the dremel to remove the rust from a vintage straight. The finish will turn out all wavy and look like caa-caa. Start with some hand sanding.
I burn up about a wheel per razor.
I burn up about a wheel per razor.
This is quite the interesting thread! Thanks for sharing the pictures and the knowledge
This is quite the interesting thread! Thanks for sharing the pictures and the knowledge
Yeah it is! I'm riveted here, but I have to get ready for class
. Makes me sad to go 
Seraphim said:
Hmmm, maybe I'd start with something that isn't rusted then. I don't have anything in mind right now anyways.
What do you use to keep the blade from flying all over the place while you work on it? I have visions of even an old rickety straight jumping off the bench and skewering the poor sap who didn't have it secured. I've seen the jig Bill Ellis posted and it looks like a fairly promising solution, but I'm wondering if you've got something else you can share without giving away too many secrets. More data points are always good.
I'm thinking a Bill Ellis style with electromagnets would be ideal, but then I'd have to figure out the electromagnet part.
- Thread starter
- #34
These come in handy:
Do you use any type of padding or cushion on the razor to prevent the vice from marking it up?
Thanks for sharing this information with us.
Thanks for sharing this information with us.
- Thread starter
- #36
I wrap soaking wet paper towels around it.
Ahh....
Does that also help as a heat sink?
Does that also help as a heat sink?
Hmm... the paper towels are enough to protect it?
I figured a vice was too aggressive for such a delicate instrument, but perhaps the steel is hardier than I had first thought. You're saying it's possible to just wrap it well with wet paper towels and leave it protruding just a little bit from the top of the vice and have at it? Sweet!
I figured a vice was too aggressive for such a delicate instrument, but perhaps the steel is hardier than I had first thought. You're saying it's possible to just wrap it well with wet paper towels and leave it protruding just a little bit from the top of the vice and have at it? Sweet!
Great thread, it is interesting to see how Seraphim makes all of those cool looking razors!
For starting out on the RRD(razor reworking disorder) I would say start out as I did, and use the same canvas of choice as Seraphim.
The Chinese made Double Arrow. At around 12 bucks shipped, rust free, halfway decent bevel, and chincy scales, you cant go wrong!
Right now the main seller only has a live auction for charity.
but if you hold out, he should do some more buy it now auctions.
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/stamps222_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
The Chinese made Double Arrow. At around 12 bucks shipped, rust free, halfway decent bevel, and chincy scales, you cant go wrong!
Right now the main seller only has a live auction for charity.
but if you hold out, he should do some more buy it now auctions.
http://shop.ebay.com/merchant/stamps222_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_mdoZ
