First time out since Thanksgiving Day. Three hours in the water for smallish longboard waves. Thigh to waist. Glorious day! Air warmed from 65-75, not a cloud, light N wind, water temp about 65 (3/2 full for me!). Still waiting for my new board, and I imagine the shaper was at Surf Expo in Orlando over the weekend. Theme for the Expo? Fiftieth Anniversary of The Endless Summer.
surfers unite.
- Thread starter smokeydave
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Sounds great! I was planning to get out today, but my kiddo woke up @ 3:30 sick, 
so thanks for the vicarious stoke!
There are quite a few mini sims shapes around here - they work really well at small pointbreaks. I'd like to pick one up someday - looks like a lot of fun!
so thanks for the vicarious stoke!There are quite a few mini sims shapes around here - they work really well at small pointbreaks. I'd like to pick one up someday - looks like a lot of fun!
I had a small project today...
Homemade surf wax, BTW…
Cold fronts keep sweeping across the country and down the peninsula, so we've had a good run of waves here. Out this morning. Air temp moved to 60, water temp low 60s, NW wind 9. When the wind laid down at times, faces were pretty glassy. Waist to shoulder. First time in a long time I put a cold wet suit on and went back out. Bald eagles have begun to frequent the break, too, and they were circling in a bright blue sky.
Cold fronts keep sweeping across the country and down the peninsula, so we've had a good run of waves here. Out this morning. Air temp moved to 60, water temp low 60s, NW wind 9. When the wind laid down at times, faces were pretty glassy. Waist to shoulder. First time in a long time I put a cold wet suit on and went back out. Bald eagles have begun to frequent the break, too, and they were circling in a bright blue sky.
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Haven't posted here in a while! Glad to be back!
Here's a great article and vid about Pipeline, that my nephew sent me: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/01/02/banzai-pipeline-video_n_4532488.html
Six months before my first visit to Hawaii (in anticipation of fighting my way through 18 footers) I quit smoking, joined a gym and surfed every chance I got. Unfortunately, the Pipe wasn't piping... there were only 4 footers the whole 7 days I was on Oahu!
Here I am paddling out at the Pipe:
Here's a great article and vid about Pipeline, that my nephew sent me: http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2014/01/02/banzai-pipeline-video_n_4532488.html
Six months before my first visit to Hawaii (in anticipation of fighting my way through 18 footers) I quit smoking, joined a gym and surfed every chance I got. Unfortunately, the Pipe wasn't piping... there were only 4 footers the whole 7 days I was on Oahu!
Here I am paddling out at the Pipe:
But you were there! Some day...
Nice shots guys! Looks fun!
Got out at Oxnard Shores today with head to 1.5 overhead waves. Period is appx 18 sec. so a good amount of "thump" to em!
Shooting for a night surf @ Malibu first point tomorrow.
Got out at Oxnard Shores today with head to 1.5 overhead waves. Period is appx 18 sec. so a good amount of "thump" to em!
Shooting for a night surf @ Malibu first point tomorrow.
That is some solid swell. It takes a Cat 5 in the Yucatan Channel to get 13-15 seconds here in the Gulf. Rare.
Hey gents. Trying to represent here in the Arabian gulf but we have only had knee slappers that are pretty inconsistent. Did have a storm with some larger surf but I was tied to duty that day. I'll try to post some pics if I get a chance! Enjoy!
Nice! Thanks for checkin' in Hangten! - Not much surf there, but how's the diving?
Got out at Secos (Leo Carrillo) for a dawn patrol session this morning. Quite easily one of the most beautiful sunrises I've witnessed in a long time. Deep purples faded to brilliant reds, to peach and yellow streaks as the sun kissed the clouds.
I love how everybody "knows" that this spot doesn't break in the Winter, so they don't even look as they drive by!
It was definitely less consistent than County Line, but it there was only one other guy in the water (compared with 30+ at County), & a few overhead waves every few minutes - just FUN!
Air - low 50's till the sun came up
Water - mid 50's
Got out at Secos (Leo Carrillo) for a dawn patrol session this morning. Quite easily one of the most beautiful sunrises I've witnessed in a long time. Deep purples faded to brilliant reds, to peach and yellow streaks as the sun kissed the clouds.
I love how everybody "knows" that this spot doesn't break in the Winter, so they don't even look as they drive by!
It was definitely less consistent than County Line, but it there was only one other guy in the water (compared with 30+ at County), & a few overhead waves every few minutes - just FUN!
Air - low 50's till the sun came up
Water - mid 50's
High tide had my local dawn patrol flooded out this morning:
Gotta love Northern LA sunrises - all that smog is good for somethin' eh? Also, there's a spot just around the corner from here that works well on tides like this! 
Air 44
Water 61
Air 44
Water 61
Beautiful shot! How much rubber did you need?
I'm a wuss - I was wearing an O'Neill Mutant 4/3. It's a couple seasons old and a bit leakier than when I bought it. - As a head shaver, I appreciate the hood on pre-dawn and night sessions!
Ha ha! I won't criticize you for that much neoprene in those conditions! The lowest water temp I have seen in the last 20 years or so is 58. Long gone for me are the days of boots, gloves, hood and surfing with snow on the beach. I'd look into a 4/3 for those conditions, especially given the improvements in wetsuits since my New England days.
Patiently awaiting my new stick....photos soon!
Nice shot, BTW. Looks like a fun day!
Patiently awaiting my new stick....photos soon!
Nice shot, BTW. Looks like a fun day!
Water is up to 70 degrees now. Front came down the peninsula and stalled yesterday. Buoys showed little, but I knew there would be a little somethin' somethin' to slide on. Loaded up the 9'6" and headed out. No wind. Light fog. And glassy waves popping up in the mist. The water was refreshing and I almost shed the suit. Thigh to stomach and clean as could be. Incoming push was helping. Three hours in the water less than a week after snowboarding in NH.
Still waiting for the new board. Would have been fun today, I'll bet.
Still waiting for the new board. Would have been fun today, I'll bet.
Sounds like a fun session. 70f water - we get there about 3 days per year, but it always manages to be flat!
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I had a small project today...
A bit slow on the uptake here, maybe it's a West Coast thing....
That's way cool! What's your wax formula? (Only if it's not a trade secret!)
How do you like it?
When I was a kid we would melt & filter our board scrapings & try to reconstitute them - what a mess!
Haven't had a chance to use it yet, though I did bring it to the beach last weekend. I used a double boiler to melt the beeswax, only added a few tablespoons of coconut oil, then poured it into small plastic cups. I read that pine resin can be used for colder water wax, but the water temp is 70 here now, so I think the standard recipe is good. I was timid with the coconut oil as I also read some had a gooey mess in their hands when they used too much. It looks and smells very much like what I started with. I'd like to use it as the basecoat when I get my new stick. It seems to lack the tackiness of the commercial waxes.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f095SU8GIIo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f095SU8GIIo
The wax recipe looks pretty effective - I could see using it on my longboards. I like really tacky wax on my shorties, so I'd have to figure a way to soften & tackify it for the water temp here.
I typically use Sticky Bumps cold water in the winter & switch to cool for summer.
Grabbed a bottle of Listerine & surfed Pitas Point in the rain.
Picked off 3 really nice DOH waves, then got caught inside by a rogue set & got out after a sound thrashing!
I typically use Sticky Bumps cold water in the winter & switch to cool for summer.
Grabbed a bottle of Listerine & surfed Pitas Point in the rain.
Picked off 3 really nice DOH waves, then got caught inside by a rogue set & got out after a sound thrashing!
Grabbed a bottle of Listerine & surfed Pitas Point in the rain.
Picked off 3 really nice DOH waves, then got caught inside by a rogue set & got out after a sound thrashing!
The germs are that bad after a bit of rain, eh?!
Some unreal shots coming out of this latest swell!
Here's the take on the swell from our FL forum...
http://www.2ndlight.com/fusetalk/forum/messageview.cfm?catid=3&threadid=157402&enterthread=y
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