Shoe Shining Disorder. What Have I Done!

[johnniegold]

I signed up for one of these when they make another run.

The Ebony Stick from Shellvedge & Dapper Woodworks

Batch 2 pre orders are in progress and estimated to ship by mid February If you have missed the pre orders please email info@dapperwoodworks to be added to the waiting list. Made from durable ebony wood, this stick is dense and hard, perfect for buffing out scuffs and scratches. Size is roughly...

www.dapperwoodworks.com

So I received a notification that the 2nd run on these ebony sticks is now available and I placed my order.

At first glance, it would appear that $100 is quite a lot of money for a 5-inch piece of wood and frankly, it is.

According to their website, the wood is made from Gaboon ebony from Western Africa. A quick search of gaboon ebony reveals the following:

Gaboon Ebony trees can take from 70-200 years in order to attain a usable size and mature. The older and darker ebony wood is, the more valuable it will be. Only one hundred and fifty years old tree and older can produce pure black wood, which is the most expensive type.

So between the sourcing of the ebony and hours put in to produce it may warrant its cost.

But for less than $60 you can buy both a deer bone and sleeking bone.

As someone who has logged many hours using both these tools on shell cordovan leather, the ebony stick drew my attention for its small shape, (which can be held like a pencil as seen in the video) which should allow for ease of use and maneuverability or at least it would seem so.

When using a deer bone, you need to look at which part of the surface of the deer bone you are using to ensure that it is totally smooth. Sometimes there can be a groove or a small burr along the surface (closer to the ends) that could cause a scratch (although removed easily enough from shell cordovan).

See the pic below…

Now the other side of the deer bone is totally smooth.

The sleeking bone doesn’t have any of those issues (which are minor, to be sure).

My sense of the ebony stick, because of its size and shape, it can perform the function of both the deer and sleeking bone as well as being a bit easier to handle ergonomically.

If not, I just spent 100 bucks on a piece of wood.

Website says 4-6 weeks, so let’s say.. early March.

When I get it, you’ll see it.

Here’s the vid…

(Not affiliated with any of the parties hawking these items).

 

[malocchio]

I notice the back seams of the shoes have some variation in them. Is that just how Alden makes them depending on the piece of leather they happen to use?

On the subject of shoe " imperfections " of various types I recently watched a very nice guided tour through the Allen Edmond's factory . The plant director stated that all the high quality shoe manufacturers have about the same amount of shoes that end up as " seconds " . The percentage is 4%.

 

[johnniegold]

Took these out today and got caught in a bit of rain. You can see some water spots on the vamp.

It took one college basketball game and 3 episodes from the second season of “Reacher” to get this result.

 

[malocchio]

Is there a vendor for these German yak hair brushes in the U.S. ?... Price in Germany is $31usd , seems very reasonable .

 

[johnniegold]

Burgol

 

[johnniegold]

After a day of walking around on wet, salt-covered sidewalks, I gave these the once over with the bones and then some Renovateur, polish and wax. The soles got an oiling as well.

 

[johnniegold]

So I received a notification that the 2nd run on these ebony sticks is now available and I placed my order.
View attachment 1777196

At first glance, it would appear that $100 is quite a lot of money for a 5-inch piece of wood and frankly, it is.

According to their website, the wood is made from Gaboon ebony from Western Africa. A quick search of gaboon ebony reveals the following:

Gaboon Ebony trees can take from 70-200 years in order to attain a usable size and mature. The older and darker ebony wood is, the more valuable it will be. Only one hundred and fifty years old tree and older can produce pure black wood, which is the most expensive type.

So between the sourcing of the ebony and hours put in to produce it may warrant its cost.

But for less than $60 you can buy both a deer bone and sleeking bone. View attachment 1777194View attachment 1777195

As someone who has logged many hours using both these tools on shell cordovan leather, the ebony stick drew my attention for its small shape, (which can be held like a pencil as seen in the video) which should allow for ease of use and maneuverability or at least it would seem so.

When using a deer bone, you need to look at which part of the surface of the deer bone you are using to ensure that it is totally smooth. Sometimes there can be a groove or a small burr along the surface (closer to the ends) that could cause a scratch (although removed easily enough from shell cordovan).

See the pic below…
View attachment 1777221
Now the other side of the deer bone is totally smooth.

The sleeking bone doesn’t have any of those issues (which are minor, to be sure).

My sense of the ebony stick, because of its size and shape, it can perform the function of both the deer and sleeking bone as well as being a bit easier to handle ergonomically.

If not, I just spent 100 bucks on a piece of wood.

Website says 4-6 weeks, so let’s say.. early March.

When I get it, you’ll see it.

Here’s the vid…

(Not affiliated with any of the parties hawking these items).

Still awaiting the arrival of the “Ebony Stick” while it’s currently being produced. Perhaps a few more weeks.

Came across a YT video by a shoe shiner from Japan (Dratewka) who was using a similar-type of tool made out of water buffalo horn.

Also, I’ve seen others using a cocobolo stick, although I would be wary to use it in a pencil-like manner because it has a much sharper point on it than either the water buffalo horn or the ebony stick.

 

[Natsoi]

Can you use the polishing bone on other types of leather?

 

[johnniegold]

Can you use the polishing bone on other types of leather?

It doesn’t appear to perform the same way on calf leather but has some benefits on waxed calf leather (i.e., removing scuffs scratches) but it doesn’t smooth out calf leather as effectively as it does on shell cordovan.

As for removing scuffs or scratches from waxed-type leathers like the crazy horse leather used for these Dr. Martens 939 Ben Boots or the oiled leather of the Red Wing Iron Ranger 8111, many times those blemishes could simply be removed by rubbing your thumb over them

But here’s is one response I found that (partially) addresses this question.


“Boning calf isn't necessary and it won't remove wrinkles, which are natural to calf wear anyway. On the other hand, using with the deer bone, piece of wood or even a metal spoon on semi-wet calf leather is called burnishing. It is done only on natural or lighter coloured leathers (not black) This will permanently darken the leather that was rubbed. Unless you know what you are doing, then do not engage. Use the bone only for your shell cordo.”

 

[malocchio]

Can you use the polishing bone on other types of leather?

Won't do much good on quality calf leather ,and you won't get a high shine on calf like you would with wax, brush and shine cloth .

 

[malocchio]

Most cobblers in the know always advise to stay away from shoe polishes / waxes that contain silicone as it clogs pores and can also yellow in certain cases . The best waxes / polishes do not contain any silicone : Saphir , Meltonian , Tarrago , Lincoln , Angelus are silicone free . Griffin , Kiwi , Kelly and a few more do contain silicone .

 

[johnniegold]

View attachment 1777196

Website says 4-6 weeks, so let’s say.. early March.

When I get it, you’ll see it.

Here’s the vid…

Received notice that the Ebony Stick has shipped (within the timeframe specified) and should arrive next week. Looking forward to giving this tool a go on some Shell Cordovan.

 

[Dogrescuer]

Frustrated and in Need of some direction please. Simply put, which Saphir wax should I purchase for the next level shine above my Saphir polish? There are so many options that I'm overwhelmed. Of course price is always a concern. Please and thank you .

 

[johnniegold]

Frustrated and in Need of some direction please. Simply put, which Saphir wax should I purchase for the next level shine above my Saphir polish? There are so many options that I'm overwhelmed. Of course price is always a concern. Please and thank you .

While the Médaille d'Or Pâte de Luxe is a bit more costly, if you watch the YT show shine videos (like dratewka) you see how very little wax they actually use.

So a 50ml tin of wax should last you quite awhile. Also, if you search it, you can always find a website offering a discount for signing up for their mailing list etc., for a 10% discount.

Good luck!

 

[Dogrescuer]

While the Médaille d'Or Pâte de Luxe is a bit more costly, if you watch the YT show shine videos (like dratewka) you see how very little wax they actually use.

So a 50ml tin of wax should last you quite awhile. Also, if you search it, you can always find a website offering a discount for signing up for their mailing list etc., for a 10% discount.

Good luck!

Thank you for your help, and to everyone that has helped me before!

 

[johnniegold]

Received notice that the Ebony Stick has shipped (within the timeframe specified) and should arrive next week. Looking forward to giving this tool a go on some Shell Cordovan.

The Ebony Stick arrived while I was away last week.

Today, was the first time I got to take a good look at it and I must say that although it’s not much to look at, it is an excellent tool to utilize when maintaining shell cordovan shoes.

The main thing that is a major benefit is its ergonomics. It’s easy to maneuver and it can be used to work along the area between the upper and outsole (usually I would revert to the sleeking bone for this area while using a deer bone).

This implement combines the deer bone and the sleeking bone into a handy, easy to use, 2-in-1 tool.

While it’s not inexpensive, if you maintain your shell cordovan footwear regularly, I can recommend this ebony stick without hesitation as a good investment to maintain and care for your shell cordovan.

Ok,,, I’ll stop blabbering and get to the pics.

I am pleased with it.

 

[Roman Totale XVII]

^ OK. You’ve sold (soled) me. I’ve a couple of pair of cordovans and have been on the fence about getting one of these for a while.

 

[johnniegold]

^ OK. You’ve sold (soled) me. I’ve a couple of pair of cordovans and have been on the fence about getting one of these for a while.

I think they sold out of the second run. I don’t see anything on the website for a scheduled 3rd run. You may be able to contact them to see if/when another batch will be produced.

The YT’er “Shellvedge” usually provides details since he partners with Dapper Dan Woodworks.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

The last time I wore these boots, I got halfway to where I was going, and noticed they looked scruffy around the creases. So when I got home, I gave the brown leather areas (only) a good polish with Kiwi neutral, and got them tidied back up.

Today was the first time I had worn them since that polish job. Half a mile from home, they didn't look good. Sadly, this pic doesn't show it well (I was stood up, and couldn't cant my foot over), but the polish had cracked, and on all the creases there was white lines, lighter coloured brown leather, and they looked unkempt again, in all the areas where the wax had cracked or lifted.

On getting back home, I gave them a buff with a clean microfibre cloth, just to dislodge the loose wax. While they looked better, they still didn't look like recently polished shoes should.

Again, apologies for photo quality. These boots really confuse my phone's camera and white balance. I think you can still see the paler areas that almost look scuffed.

So it looks like I might need to start experimenting with coloured shoe polishes. I had hoped to only use black and neutral polishes to keep my shoes in order, but I think I need to start exploring Cherry Blossom's brown and navy coloured tins. Thankfully they're not expensive. I can get them delivered at a couple of quid a tin (I don't hold much hope for finding navy polish around town). I might need to give them a good scrub with saddle soap first though, so that any Kiwi neutral that has properly penetrated, doesn't hold off the coloured polishes.

 

[AimlessWanderer]

....but I think I need to start exploring Cherry Blossom's brown and navy coloured tins.

Well that was good timing. Cherry Blossom has a new website, and is offering 30% off all orders.

I've ordered navy renovating cream, and the three shades of brown plus oxblood in polish, so I get to try both products. I nudged it all over £20 for free shipping (after the 30% was knocked off) with a can of suede protector, a couple of new brushes, and a pair of insoles.