Professor Flanders's Journal of Nerdy Observations and silly camaraderie

[tomas1870]

Mild or so called aggressive from my little experience as a newbie
- first week of wet shaving I changed from R89 to R41 because R89 didn't work for me, but after couple days R41 was too much and I was not able to do ATG
- so I tried many possibilities, and what was next milestone - Overlander, first razor for me that worked 100% and ATG was perfect
- later discovered Athenas, finally prefer little bit Ares V2
- with time and learning razor, also neutral blade exposure razors was possible to use but for me not so intuitive and easy as with positive blade exposure like Overlander +0.07mm, later Dovo Primo worked nice
- WR2 was also nice but not so easy, and again for me bigger gap and no blade exposure (WR2 1.00) worked like Athena for example, or WR2 1.20 was too much ATG (probably lack of my skills)
- big improvement SE, WR4 as La Faulx are high efficient, both + blade exposure and worked super fine immediately
- last time WR1 0.67 was favorite with blade exposure + 0.10 easiest to work with, immediately responsive
- finally winner for me is Blackbird Ti, what I found not aggressive at all, I just feel the blade when cutting but for skin is mild, actually I can archive milder shaves with Blackbird Ti as with Athena, because no pressure needed, no second passes on same place, just following angle of top cup (it is guide like on Henson but with liberty to use it or not), and only blade on my skin, safety bar like floating
- blade is best guide for me, for this it has to be razor with positive blade exposure, and best work sharp blade, like Perma-Sharp for me, also light weight of razor is help, no pressure is required and I can't shave same with SS razor as with Ti, but this all can change with practice
- so for me finally answer would be easiest and best are razors with low gap but bigger positive blade exposure, without pressure and adjusting angle for each pass, different angle for WTG, XTG and ATG, sharper blade are better, and actually it all leads me to think Blackbird is best when correctly used because it is closest to straight what is probably best of all for mild but high efficient shave
- of course milder razors work, but need more advanced technique and some pressure (or weight of razor), and depend on user also more strokes required what can lead to irritation
- there is no universal answer for me, what works and feels good is best for each one, the way and discovering is probably nicer as to find one destiny razor and be just there..

 

[BigAlVista]

You certainly have had some interesting razors! I think you have a nice variety even if you kind of ended up there accidentally.


That's good to hear and I am sorry that I am not caught up on your journal yet. Those Black Ninjas are really something, but they can also become too much so be careful how many shaves you try to extract. I am a bit surprised about the other combination as I would have thought it just right. I do wonder if there is something else at play with the 2 plate, but both being ++ plates I would have thought they both would have had similar characteristics. I know with some other IB razors, the step down plates aren't everybody's favourite and they don't necessarily produce a closer shave(probably a wider range of angles).

I would have thought the 2++ with Wizamet would gave been perfect as well. So it goes...

 

[ButterfaceX]

Oh, sorry, I didn't write that well and the antecedent wasn't clear. Let me try again...

I have the Kopparkant original and +. They are very different shaves. The original is neutral and the + has a much higher exposure (0.125mm) and gap.

Alysworth said that the Kopparkant and the Drakkant have the same specs and shave the same.

How does the Kopparkant w/ the + plate shave for you? Also what would you compare it to? Thanks

 

[spacemonkey42]

So far, so good. The + is much more efficient than the original. I've only had a few shaves with it, so I am not sure how to compare it yet. It certainly has promise. It is designed to be a shallow shaver, so the exposure doesn't seem as intimidating. If you like shallow, it is worth a try. I really like how it looks too.

 

[ButterfaceX]

So far, so good. The + is much more efficient than the original. I've only had a few shaves with it, so I am not sure how to compare it yet. It certainly has promise. It is designed to be a shallow shaver, so the exposure doesn't seem as intimidating. If you like shallow, it is worth a try. I really like how it looks too.

cool beans..
Also, I am good knurled handle guy, how is that the grip on that brass handle? I add to the measurement , how long the stubble stays away...
And...
Thank you for the excellent info and updates...
It truly helps..
Cheers
BFX

 

[spacemonkey42]

The grip is great, no complaints there.

I'm not a believer in the duration of shave as a measurement of shave quality. Whiskers always reappear, I shave daily. How quickly they reappear is due to a lot of factors - from how close the shave, to the environmental conditions, to how hydrated I am, and more.

 

[BigAlVista]

I would have thought the 2++ with Wizamet would gave been perfect as well. So it goes...

I may try again with a GSB down the road.

 

[APBinNCA]

timelesstime0424.jpeg

• APBinNCA
• Apr 22, 2024

• Timeless Ti95 w/Lasta gourde handle • Vintage GSB

With all the recent discussion of Timeless razors and balance point tuning/weight distribution adjustment I decided to fetch my Ti95 from the house this past weekend. I loaded a fresh GSB and I was off to the races!

There was some initial discussion around this handle when I first got it, but I really hadn't found the right razor for it; it's balance point/weight aren't like a conventional handle. Technically, the head is only 20% of the whole weight which is the wrong direction for me normally. However, this puts the balance point where it needs to be for where it has to be gripped. I was previously using a stainless steel razor head and wasn't completely thrilled with the result. I just found out this weekend that Timeless is now selling a stubby stainless handle and that made me think about this handle that I have.

The Timeless itself has always been a mixed bag for me; it is capable of causing some injury yet it never produces that close of a shave. This shave, with this blade, has a real tactile feel that I get in the Blackbird, Thom calls it intense or something. I always feel like I am skating on ice with this razor and that it will bite me at any opportunity. I kept the pressure minimal and escaped unscathed this time. These steep angle razors are not my preference, for some of the reasons mentioned, but I like to keep current so to speak. The shave was pretty fast and the result was pretty good, but not perfect. The minimal blade exposure combined with a steep angle just doesn't provide an even shave for me, the blade just can't get a bite into the difficult hairs. The experience is all smoothness and you can feel it cutting, but what you can't detect is has much it's missing. Anyway, it was a good enough DFS. I won't be buying any more Timeless parts to experiment with, I will save the funds for other purchases.

The handle will continue to get some use and I hope to try it on another razor that is a similar weight, I haven't made up my mind about it yet.

I used my Hydromagic Schick this past weekend and have been using it more lately. I really love the feeling of using it and it reminds me why I have always been a vintage single edge enthusiast! I kind of hate the feeling that I could have just kept using those razors that I have and skipped all this expensive modern stuff. The Schicks are especially easy to use... to the detriment of keeping your technique intact for other razors. The only thing is that I somehow roughed up my lower neck and I honestly have no idea how! You would think with the ultra low angle and rigid blade this would be difficult, but such is the mystery of vintage razors. I didn't have any clue until awhile after the shave and the itching got really intense so I had to pull out the Bump Patrol. Luckily I didn't have any sign of it this morning and today's shave didn't make it worse.

 

[Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker]

timelesstime0424.jpeg

• APBinNCA
• Apr 22, 2024

• Timeless Ti95 w/Lasta gourde handle • Vintage GSB

With all the recent discussion of Timeless razors and balance point tuning/weight distribution adjustment I decided to fetch my Ti95 from the house this past weekend. I loaded a fresh GSB and I was off to the races!

There was some initial discussion around this handle when I first got it, but I really hadn't found the right razor for it; it's balance point/weight aren't like a conventional handle. Technically, the head is only 20% of the whole weight which is the wrong direction for me normally. However, this puts the balance point where it needs to be for where it has to be gripped. I was previously using a stainless steel razor head and wasn't completely thrilled with the result. I just found out this weekend that Timeless is now selling a stubby stainless handle and that made me think about this handle that I have.

The Timeless itself has always been a mixed bag for me; it is capable of causing some injury yet it never produces that close of a shave. This shave, with this blade, has a real tactile feel that I get in the Blackbird, Thom calls it intense or something. I always feel like I am skating on ice with this razor and that it will bite me at any opportunity. I kept the pressure minimal and escaped unscathed this time. These steep angle razors are not my preference, for some of the reasons mentioned, but I like to keep current so to speak. The shave was pretty fast and the result was pretty good, but not perfect. The minimal blade exposure combined with a steep angle just doesn't provide an even shave for me, the blade just can't get a bite into the difficult hairs. The experience is all smoothness and you can feel it cutting, but what you can't detect is has much it's missing. Anyway, it was a good enough DFS. I won't be buying any more Timeless parts to experiment with, I will save the funds for other purchases.

The handle will continue to get some use and I hope to try it on another razor that is a similar weight, I haven't made up my mind about it yet.

I used my Hydromagic Schick this past weekend and have been using it more lately. I really love the feeling of using it and it reminds me why I have always been a vintage single edge enthusiast! I kind of hate the feeling that I could have just kept using those razors that I have and skipped all this expensive modern stuff. The Schicks are especially easy to use... to the detriment of keeping your technique intact for other razors. The only thing is that I somehow roughed up my lower neck and I honestly have no idea how! You would think with the ultra low angle and rigid blade this would be difficult, but such is the mystery of vintage razors. I didn't have any clue until awhile after the shave and the itching got really intense so I had to pull out the Bump Patrol. Luckily I didn't have any sign of it this morning and today's shave didn't make it worse.

I've never seen a razor with that kind of handle before, that things cute! That brush looks nice, I assume its a Semogue Silver Tip? How you liking that lavender soap and aftershave, its not overpowering like Lavender essential oil is it, or is it mild?

I also hear ya on Timeless razors, you remember my detailed posts I made about my TI95 razor? While the TI95 has moments of being a nice smooth & efficient shaving razor, it also has a lot of blade feel, and if your not careful, it becomes a skin peeler and weeper inducer, real quick.

Its rare that we get to see a proper SOTD post from you, so I really wanted to thank you for sharing your experience and your lovely photo with all of us.

 

[thombrogan]

I think the intense feeling is mild tugging followed by a clean cut before pulling has gone too far.

I’m sorry the Timeless is quasi functional eye-candy atop the ducky handle. Also jealous you can use an Injector without issue

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

The Timeless itself has always been a mixed bag for me; it is capable of causing some injury yet it never produces that close of a shave. This shave, with this blade, has a real tactile feel that I get in the Blackbird, Thom calls it intense or something. I always feel like I am skating on ice with this razor and that it will bite me at any opportunity.

Doesn't sound like it's worth pursuing to me

I used my Hydromagic Schick this past weekend and have been using it more lately. I really love the feeling of using it and it reminds me why I have always been a vintage single edge enthusiast! I kind of hate the feeling that I could have just kept using those razors that I have and skipped all this expensive modern stuff.

Schick SEs continue to pique my curiosity. It's only a matter of time.

... Thom

 

[APBinNCA]

That brush looks nice, I assume its a Semogue Silver Tip?

It's a TSN limited edition made by Semogue. Usually the SOC are 2 band, but you are correct that this is Silver tip. It's HD though so not even remotely floppy. One of the first brushes I ever bought and it could have been the last if I wasn't so greedy!

How you liking that lavender soap and aftershave, its not overpowering like Lavender essential oil is it, or is it mild?

I do, I guess you can't see the inside unless you have x ray vision! It's an essential oil blend, mostly French, but it's STRONG. Not too strong, but right on the edge. It's also got a bit of a candied lavender note to it, not camphorous. It's from last year's drop and I was using it pretty heavily until winter and am at it again now.

Its rare that we get to see a proper SOTD post from you

I appreciate the nice compliments, but this was long over due and if we are honest, I didn't even include my usual shave score. I hope Lasta logs in sometime to see that his creation is getting some use.

 

[APBinNCA]

Doesn't sound like it's worth pursuing to me

I wish that was an exaggeration, but it's not and many others agree. This was the razor that I started blade testing with and learned pretty quickly that it's not blade agnostic. The 68OC is worth pursuing, I have read plenty of reviews recently and in the past. The gap should be low enough not to get your skin bunched up into, that's the danger with this one. Oh also, if you haven't read one of my previous posts about it, the safety bar floats if you attempt to shave shallow!

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

It's new equipment day!

I guess I have already said everything I need to so far about the Oumo ST-1 over in its own thread, but I am happier with this than I want to be. The Wald still rules around here, but this kind of does everything that my G5C does better. I had my eyes on a handle that I really wanted that was stuffed with a 26mm G5C for a similar price, but I am glad I held off on that. I am pretty sure my SBAD is back in remission, I don't really spend money on duplicate knots that have another pretty handle. More expensive badgers still remain a temptation, but the prices keep me under control.

In my quest to compare my new Oumo ST-1 fan knot to my existing synthetic brushes, I pulled out the G5C. I have been using The General twice a week now, when I am home.

I am not sure if it is the hard puck SV soap or what, but I finally enjoyed my G5C again for the first time in a year! Not that I haven't used it, but I wasn't enjoying it like I did when I first got it. It seems that I have finally cracked the code for splaying synthetic knots, but I am not sure that I can put the brush back into second position behind the Wald just yet. It is still a springy knot, but can be tamed by loading heavy.

So I loaded a ridiculous amount of soap, or so I thought, and built my lather on my face. As soon as I got enough water in, everything came together! It splayed, it held the massive load and... it gave me air puffs. What it didn't do was vacuum all the soap inside the knot nor run water out. After squeezing out the excess, I only had my usual one pass worth left. I attribute the perception that I loaded too much to the smaller 24mm knot, this is good!

The one thing that keeps niggling at me is this might only be successful with hard soap and I am fine with that. Every time I have tried using it and had bad results, it was with some artisan croap. I don't mind using my STF brush for those, it helps me use all these brushes!

I never caught your earlier comparison of the G5C and ST-1. This is purely intellectual curiosity on my part and not SBAD (I think).

Is it safe to assume that these two knots are more alike than they are different? While I've always been curious about the G5C, the fact that my ST-1 takes a back seat to both of my STF knots (25mm) tells me that I'm wasting my time thinking about a G5C.

I keep my ST-1 in rotation and I've adapted to its spring-back, but when I go back to either of my STFs, everything is just that much more "right".

My STFs load fine with both Cella and Haslingers Shafmilch. I don't play with soaps the way I do with blades and other stuff, so this is the sum total of my soap experience - 1 croap and 1 hard. As far as the hard Shafmilch, the STF loads tons more easily than the slightly stiffer ST-1.

At your convenience, talk me down off the ledge

... Thom

 

[Guido75]

the fact that my ST-1 takes a back seat to both of my STF knots (25mm) tells me that I'm wasting my time thinking about a G5C.

To me the G5C actually performs slightly better than the STF - I was surprised to arrive at that conclusion after reading the raving reviews on the STF. My preference might change over time, but this is where I am currently at. Which is to say that the STF is an excellent brush, but the G5C combines the best of two worlds: behaves like a badger while showing the traits of a synthetic (such as quick dry cycle). I don’t have the ST-1 so cannot comment on that one.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

To me the G5C actually performs slightly better than the STF - I was surprised to arrive at that conclusion after reading the raving reviews on the STF. My preference might change over time, but this is where I am currently at. Which is to say that the STF is an excellent brush, but the G5C combines the best of two worlds: behaves like a badger while showing the traits of a synthetic (such as quick dry cycle). I don’t have the ST-1 so cannot comment on that one.

Cheers,

Guido

Thanks!

Other than a cheap badger my wife gave me last Spring when I returned to DE shaving, I don't have any references to badgers, and of course, I don't know the G5C.

From 3rd hand info about the G5C, and the descriptions on AP Shave Co's page, I could read the comments about the G5C and think it was written about the ST-1, which is why I asked Aaron - probably the only person who's experienced all 3 knots.

There are days when I like the slight prickly feel of the ST-1. I remember that feel from the cheap badger.

... Thom

 

[APBinNCA]

Is it safe to assume that these two knots are more alike than they are different? While I've always been curious about the G5C, the fact that my ST-1 takes a back seat to both of my STF knots (25mm) tells me that I'm wasting my time thinking about a G5C.

Honestly, probably. My G5C is set on the higher end and I happened to have just used it this weekend! I can't really add anything much beyond that short exert that you quoted. I mean in isolation, I still like using it just fine, it isn't annoying to use like the AP Titanium knot. It's soft like an STF and does make nice lather... and runs a bunch of water down the handle! I think the one thing that made me reach for it over my ST-1, not even sure where it is actually, is its lower density. I needed something that I could load lightly for a quick one pass shave and it worked as expected for that purpose. The ST-1 would have demanded more work of some kind and left me with more lather to run down the drain. Is this helping?

Maybe I should add that I pulled out my dormant STF last weekend and have used it twice and both times, it performed exactly as expected. I loaded enough soap, I added enough water, with some carelessness, and got it to splay nicely. It's the kind of brush where somebody talks about how easy the whole process of using a synthetic brush is for the results obtained. The STF simply loads soap easier, in my experience, than a G5C which is more in line with badger brushes. I happen to have badger brushes that are just as easy to use, though different, and badger brushes that are objectively superior overall(but more trouble). The ST-1 has always been more trouble relative to what I get out of it, but I think your's is better broke in.

 

[APBinNCA]

With all the recent discussion of Timeless razors and balance point tuning/weight distribution adjustment I decided to fetch my Ti95 from the house this past weekend. I loaded a fresh GSB and I was off to the races!

So, I logged in today with the intent of updating my experience above. I had intended to put my foot down and not risk doing more than four shaves on this blade, but I had a late shave today so I made it 4.5. That's what I am going with and I am going to do the same tomorrow and then finally bin the blade before I get bit!

By just using the Timeless on its own terms, with a nice blade, I have a new appreciation for it. I was certain that I was going to get bit at some point, but by the third shave I had completely forgot about it. I didn't get cocky or do anything stupid, I just took it, relaxed and let the razor dictate how close of a shave I was going to get. Every single full shave has been some kind of DFS as mentioned above, but the stubble forrest the next morning was definitely a disappointment. There just isn't enough efficiency somewhere in the design, I have my own theories of course, somewhere. The results are just how I remember them when I was using it as my primary razor, similar to the Henson medium, but more even. This is due to the added flexibility to change angles that causes the Henson to lift the blade. I am quite pleased with how fast of a shave I can achieve just like when I used to use it with an Astor blade, I need to pull one of those out again. Maybe that's what I am missing, using a dangerously sharp blade?

The funny looking handle is really becoming quite endearing believe it or not. The parallel to the face handle angle of the Timeless really does suite this handle well and the weight is just right overall.

I am now tempted, once again, to get the Slim plate, but at over 100 bucks... I don't know. I am also temped to buy a whole Stainless razor with the new short handle, but again... over 300 bucks! The Slim is probably the more rational choice, it's supposed to be a bid more aggressive than any of the other plates in spite of having the same exposure.

On to a different razor for a bit, probably back to a familiar Blackbird. Cheers everybody!

 

[Galibier_Numero_Un]

Honestly, probably. My G5C is set on the higher end and I happened to have just used it this weekend! I can't really add anything much beyond that short exert that you quoted. I mean in isolation, I still like using it just fine, it isn't annoying to use like the AP Titanium knot. It's soft like an STF and does make nice lather... and runs a bunch of water down the handle! I think the one thing that made me reach for it over my ST-1, not even sure where it is actually, is its lower density. I needed something that I could load lightly for a quick one pass shave and it worked as expected for that purpose. The ST-1 would have demanded more work of some kind and left me with more lather to run down the drain. Is this helping?

Maybe I should add that I pulled out my dormant STF last weekend and have used it twice and both times, it performed exactly as expected. I loaded enough soap, I added enough water, with some carelessness, and got it to splay nicely. It's the kind of brush where somebody talks about how easy the whole process of using a synthetic brush is for the results obtained. The STF simply loads soap easier, in my experience, than a G5C which is more in line with badger brushes. I happen to have badger brushes that are just as easy to use, though different, and badger brushes that are objectively superior overall(but more trouble). The ST-1 has always been more trouble relative to what I get out of it, but I think your's is better broke in.

My big question - why am I so brain dead that I forgot that you replied to my update in the ST-1 thread you started (click here, folks if you're curious). Yes, I'll bet I have 40-50 shaves on it, and it behaves better, having broken in.

In any case, this is fantastic and settles my curiosity. Thanks!

Your description of the G5C mates almost exactly with mine of the ST-1 - especially the splay and my experiences of lather running down my arm. Yes, in isolation, the ST-1 is fine ... until I lather up with one of my STFs and this is the key - why pick up a similar brush (G5C) when my tendency is to reach for one of my STFs.

I'm sure that (like you), I'd notice subtle differences between the ST-1 and G5C, but my takeaway is that they're close enough to each other to make exploring a G5C low on my list.

As you know, I figured out the ST-1 water running down my arm thing after 3 weeks of experimentation - documenting my effort in the post I linked to, above.

Still, the STF is far more intuitive and lathers like a champ. As a matter of fact, I just ordered my third STF today - this one from Rudy in a color called ... Nuclear Grape (with a Duke 3 style handle).

... Thom

 

[BigAlVista]

timelesstime0424.jpeg

• APBinNCA
• Apr 22, 2024

• Timeless Ti95 w/Lasta gourde handle • Vintage GSB

With all the recent discussion of Timeless razors and balance point tuning/weight distribution adjustment I decided to fetch my Ti95 from the house this past weekend. I loaded a fresh GSB and I was off to the races!

There was some initial discussion around this handle when I first got it, but I really hadn't found the right razor for it; it's balance point/weight aren't like a conventional handle. Technically, the head is only 20% of the whole weight which is the wrong direction for me normally. However, this puts the balance point where it needs to be for where it has to be gripped. I was previously using a stainless steel razor head and wasn't completely thrilled with the result. I just found out this weekend that Timeless is now selling a stubby stainless handle and that made me think about this handle that I have.

The Timeless itself has always been a mixed bag for me; it is capable of causing some injury yet it never produces that close of a shave. This shave, with this blade, has a real tactile feel that I get in the Blackbird, Thom calls it intense or something. I always feel like I am skating on ice with this razor and that it will bite me at any opportunity. I kept the pressure minimal and escaped unscathed this time. These steep angle razors are not my preference, for some of the reasons mentioned, but I like to keep current so to speak. The shave was pretty fast and the result was pretty good, but not perfect. The minimal blade exposure combined with a steep angle just doesn't provide an even shave for me, the blade just can't get a bite into the difficult hairs. The experience is all smoothness and you can feel it cutting, but what you can't detect is has much it's missing. Anyway, it was a good enough DFS. I won't be buying any more Timeless parts to experiment with, I will save the funds for other purchases.

The handle will continue to get some use and I hope to try it on another razor that is a similar weight, I haven't made up my mind about it yet.

I used my Hydromagic Schick this past weekend and have been using it more lately. I really love the feeling of using it and it reminds me why I have always been a vintage single edge enthusiast! I kind of hate the feeling that I could have just kept using those razors that I have and skipped all this expensive modern stuff. The Schicks are especially easy to use... to the detriment of keeping your technique intact for other razors. The only thing is that I somehow roughed up my lower neck and I honestly have no idea how! You would think with the ultra low angle and rigid blade this would be difficult, but such is the mystery of vintage razors. I didn't have any clue until awhile after the shave and the itching got really intense so I had to pull out the Bump Patrol. Luckily I didn't have any sign of it this morning and today's shave didn't make it worse.

Hi, Aaron. I struggled with the Timeless TI .95 as well and was ready to sell it off. I dropped a Kai blade in on a recommendation and it did the trick - for me. Not loving that it's a one-trick poney, but with that blade, I get a really good shave.