My homemade 8/8 smiley

[bluesman 7]

Eyeball for austenitizing, then tempering in the kitchen oven. I heat the blade for austenitizing inside of a black iron pipe in the forge. It helps even out and control the heat as well as letting me keep a reducing atmosphere by putting some charcoal in the pipe. I've only worked with 0-1 to this point, but my results have been excellent. The curie temp, where the steel becomes non-magnetic, is a bit low for austenitizing 0-1.

 

[Haydes85]

Very nice work, Sir. I just got done reading through the whole post, but I did not pay attention to the time stamps on your posts to gauge how long it takes you to make a complete razor. In any event, I would think the final result would fetch a pretty penny, for the amount of time that you have invested in the making of the entire razor.

 

[bluesman 7]

Very nice work, Sir. I just got done reading through the whole post, but I did not pay attention to the time stamps on your posts to gauge how long it takes you to make a complete razor. In any event, I would think the final result would fetch a pretty penny, for the amount of time that you have invested in the making of the entire razor.

This last one, I forged at the meet in Texas two months ago. It sat in that condition while I built my new grinder and all of the tooling. I should be finishing it today.

I seem to enjoy it most by spreading the work out and not doing more than 2-3 hours at a time, so I might work a few hours then let it be for a few days. The steps of forging, rough grinding, heat treating, finish grinding, scale making, and first honing, are all different enough from each other that they promote a pause after each step.

 

[coase]

I'm a noob and just want to say how utterly stunned I am by this great thread.

Never knew anyone had such skills (especially from someone who plays e4 )!

 

[bluesman 7]

I'm a noob and just want to say how utterly stunned I am by this great thread.

Never knew anyone had such skills (especially from someone who plays e4 )!

Thanks. The Chess reference gave me a good laugh.

I just finished honing the newest razor. I will get pictures up tomorrow. This one's going to sing!

 

[rockviper]

Geek!

 

[bluesman 7]

 

[bluesman 7]

 

[rockviper]

Looks nice. I like the mustard suit and your mark.

 

[bluesman 7]

Looks nice. I like the mustard suit and your mark.

Thanks Sam. I don't think the hollow grind would be to your taste though. This one is really thin!

 

[Dools]

That is stunning Victor!

Enjoy!

 

[CartridgesAreADrag]

What size contact wheel are you using? I'm thinkin. Of getting an 8".

 

[Lmarkow]

Skinny! And fantastic!!

 

[bluesman 7]

What size contact wheel are you using? I'm thinkin. Of getting an 8".

I think an 8" wheel will work well for a 1/4 hollow on an 8/8 razor. I like lighter grinds. On this last razor, I used 2", 4", and 5" contact wheels.

 

[bluesman 7]

Since my grinding tools and abilities have improved, I could not resist going back to my first two razors and thinning out the hollows.

 

[Lmarkow]

They look great, bluesman!

 

[Doc226]

Niiiiiiicccccceeeeee

 

[rockviper]

Boooo! Can you make mine fatter?

 

[bluesman 7]

Thanks Larry, Alfredo, and Sam. They're not as thinly ground as my most recent razors, but a lot thinner than they were originally.

 

[bluesman 7]

A week ago I made a new burner for the gas forge. It's a huge improvement from the roofing torch I had been using. Much hotter.

This afternoon I hammered out a couple blanks from 1095 steel.

I'm interested in how this steel behaves in regards to polishing and honing compared to 0-1. The 0-1 has Chromium and Tungsten in it which allows deep hardening so, for example the spine would be hard all the way through the center, but those alloys form very hard abrasive resistant carbides which I think I'm fighting the whole way through the post heat treat finishing and honing. The 1095 is a much simpler steel without Chromium or Tungsten.