I want to buy the Chosera 5k and 8k snow white. Some folks have trouble with cracks and others don't. I have owned the Chosera 2k for years and no issues. I read that the lower grits aren't prone to craze, but the higher grit Chosera's are. I believe a lot might have to do with the type of climate some people leave in. I live in East Tennessee. Any thoughts?
Chosera specifically: Chosera 5k and snow white
- Thread starter Southbound1
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I have the 5K, no cracking. I have the Snow White that has cracking. Also have the Fugi 8K with no issues.
I have the 5k pro (dark grey) and the fuji 8k in the humid PNW. No issues in about 6mo of ownership, admittedly not too long. I put them in a dish rack in a dark bathroom to drip dry, tea towel on top.
I wonder whether the high-humidity environment is good or bad for that sort of cracking. I could see arguments either way. But I'm not going to buy a Snow White just to do the definitive desert test.
I think it only helps. Slow drying is what every retailer recommends, so long as it's not kept actually wet. I've been told to wrap in a damp towel in Colorado. The key is slow transition from wet to dry so contraction forces are equal across the stone. Leaving it to soak can ruin the binder but a humid environment isn't that wet.
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- #6
I read that if one backs these with glass (something solid)and seals the sides of the rest of the stone it will not crack. Idk...
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- #7
I was wondering that too. I live in East TN pretty humid here..I have a Chosera 2k and it hasn't cracked, had it for a few years. No special drying method, just wipe with a towel and let ot air dry
I may know a few things about humidity. I have to worry about mold on my stones if i store in the box. And yes, I have stood them on their sides in my drying rack for days. I don’t fight it, they stay in my drying rack on my shop permanently. No cracking or warping, no Snow White, I use a Fiji.
I live in the devils butt crack, South Louisiana, not for form the marsh. Low humidity is 80%.
I live in the devils butt crack, South Louisiana, not for form the marsh. Low humidity is 80%.
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What's up Eric? Mike Shults here.
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- #10
Chosera or Pro? They are not the same.
I had 3 Chosera 1k stones craze/crack. And a 3k.
My first 10k Chosera arrived cracked.
Never liked the 5k all that much, got rid of it before the 1ks cracked.
Had a 1k Pro crack.
Had a 3k Pro crack. Both gone now.
None were soaked all were dried angled on their long side.
Lot of people I have talked with that had cracked Pro and Chosera stones lived in varies places with various degrees of RH and used numerous drying tactics. Cracks happened, sometimes, but not other times. People following all of the stories about wraping and humidity and whathave you, some cracked, some did not. Usually not the lower grits but sometimes it was.
The very first Chosera I heard of cracking was a 5k actually, someone from SRP. He glued the stone to a support substrate and it kept fissuring anyway.
About a year or so ago I started thinking it's not a mechanical drying or humidity-based thing, it's more of a weakness in the recipe thing, possible inconsistent manufacturing stuff, that is exacerbated by wet/dry cycles. I don't believe there is any process the user can follow that is going to work. People drying their stones in towels slowly might not get cracks but you don't know if that stone was ever going to crack in the first place. They don't all crack, just some of them. So that's like putting a wool sock on your neck to prevent a sore throat. Not getting a sore throat doesn't mean the sock worked.
I would suppose that leaving a stone flat on it's back soaking wet in direct sunlight isn't a good idea though.
Never had a crack in Snow White. Fuji either but it's a different type of binder.
Currently have a 600x Pro and a 1k Pro and the SW still and the 4k cousin of SW. I have abused the 600, 1k, 4k with wet/dry cycles, bad drying techniques, etc. So far they haven't given me grief and by now I think they would have. I will probably get an 3k next and acid test it also. I sealed their bottoms and sides with clear, can't say it helped or hurt. The 4k looks a bit odd under the seal in a few spots.
Expect the worst, hope for the best.
I had 3 Chosera 1k stones craze/crack. And a 3k.
My first 10k Chosera arrived cracked.
Never liked the 5k all that much, got rid of it before the 1ks cracked.
Had a 1k Pro crack.
Had a 3k Pro crack. Both gone now.
None were soaked all were dried angled on their long side.
Lot of people I have talked with that had cracked Pro and Chosera stones lived in varies places with various degrees of RH and used numerous drying tactics. Cracks happened, sometimes, but not other times. People following all of the stories about wraping and humidity and whathave you, some cracked, some did not. Usually not the lower grits but sometimes it was.
The very first Chosera I heard of cracking was a 5k actually, someone from SRP. He glued the stone to a support substrate and it kept fissuring anyway.
About a year or so ago I started thinking it's not a mechanical drying or humidity-based thing, it's more of a weakness in the recipe thing, possible inconsistent manufacturing stuff, that is exacerbated by wet/dry cycles. I don't believe there is any process the user can follow that is going to work. People drying their stones in towels slowly might not get cracks but you don't know if that stone was ever going to crack in the first place. They don't all crack, just some of them. So that's like putting a wool sock on your neck to prevent a sore throat. Not getting a sore throat doesn't mean the sock worked.
I would suppose that leaving a stone flat on it's back soaking wet in direct sunlight isn't a good idea though.
Never had a crack in Snow White. Fuji either but it's a different type of binder.
Currently have a 600x Pro and a 1k Pro and the SW still and the 4k cousin of SW. I have abused the 600, 1k, 4k with wet/dry cycles, bad drying techniques, etc. So far they haven't given me grief and by now I think they would have. I will probably get an 3k next and acid test it also. I sealed their bottoms and sides with clear, can't say it helped or hurt. The 4k looks a bit odd under the seal in a few spots.
Expect the worst, hope for the best.
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- #12
Thanks for the reply. So what an the 4k Hayabusa stone. How good and fine and hard is it? Is it the same as brand as the 8k fuji
Mine Polishes as much or more than my Arata 5K, but it loads like hell if you go 1k to 4K. If I bridge something between, it does fine. If refreshing from 4K, my Haya 4K to 8K Fiji work well together. Not a bad combo when I go to a Natural from 8K. I really like the Fiji, but the Haya 4K is replaceable.
@Southbound1
Hayabusa is a solid 4k stone, How fine it is? It's 4k. How fine does it need to be? It worked well to clean up the striations left by the bevel setting stones I use. It's the same style of stone as the Fuji, sorta plasticky feeling but a little better than most Super Stones in that regard.
Hayabusa and Fuji have been reported to crack and warp also, btw.
Not to the extent of Chosera or Pro stones but I have read about it. I did not experience it myself. Could just be user error but given Naniwa's track record of breeding stones with the banana chromosome, maybe not.
I was impressed with the Fuji/Hayabusa in a technical sense, but the feel isn't there for me. I got rid of both and kept Snow White and eventually got the IE-0400. Will probably get another Pro 3000 sometime this year.
Hayabusa is a solid 4k stone, How fine it is? It's 4k. How fine does it need to be? It worked well to clean up the striations left by the bevel setting stones I use. It's the same style of stone as the Fuji, sorta plasticky feeling but a little better than most Super Stones in that regard.
Hayabusa and Fuji have been reported to crack and warp also, btw.
Not to the extent of Chosera or Pro stones but I have read about it. I did not experience it myself. Could just be user error but given Naniwa's track record of breeding stones with the banana chromosome, maybe not.
I was impressed with the Fuji/Hayabusa in a technical sense, but the feel isn't there for me. I got rid of both and kept Snow White and eventually got the IE-0400. Will probably get another Pro 3000 sometime this year.
@Darth Scandalous I find the 4k Haya and the 6k King dead ringers in polish, how it sets up an 8k, and sloppiness. They do perform, but after I look like I just got done mud riding with a transfer case leak.
I hadn't had any issues but I just pulled my Hayabusa out today since we were talking about it. It was lapped flat before I put it away a few weeks ago, stored on its side.
I bet the other side is slightly convex. I suspect the convex stone fairy have been busy at your house
They prefer Naniwa stones.Not much market for a used synth. But as JPO put it, now that the convex fairy
has passed, you should be able to get a pretty penny for that bugger.I never had issues with Haybusa loading. It cvleans up 1k-ish striations but the stone never loaded unusually. I'd say 90% of the swarf cleared off with light running water and my finger brushing it off. Took a while to get where it needed to be cleared by lapping.
I've used Hayabusa in between bevel set and 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k, 6k, Shapton and Naniwa stones and it on par with 4k, slightly behind 5k and 6k, little ahead of 2k and 3k.
Nothing exceptional for me. It is consistent.
I picked up a Fuji and Haybusa right when they first came out, immediately after the first Kezurokai they were shown at. Maybe the quality changed since then. Seems that's a possibility since mine didn't warp and I didn't hear about warping for years after the initial release. I would rather deal with crazing than warping. Rather not deal with either tho. The IE-0400 has been better for me all around.
I've used Hayabusa in between bevel set and 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k, 6k, Shapton and Naniwa stones and it on par with 4k, slightly behind 5k and 6k, little ahead of 2k and 3k.
Nothing exceptional for me. It is consistent.
I picked up a Fuji and Haybusa right when they first came out, immediately after the first Kezurokai they were shown at. Maybe the quality changed since then. Seems that's a possibility since mine didn't warp and I didn't hear about warping for years after the initial release. I would rather deal with crazing than warping. Rather not deal with either tho. The IE-0400 has been better for me all around.
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