Stando Mokosz Copper / Shear Revival Bay & Lime / Boti Captain 2Band fan / Gillette Nacet / Bootlegger's Perfecto Virginia
I have the similar Stando Leszy in copper. I should use it tomorrow, I think I've only used it twice and I've owned it since October.Stando Mokosz Copper / Shear Revival Bay & Lime / Boti Captain 2Band fan / Gillette Nacet / Bootlegger's Perfecto Virginia
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Thanks for the tip. I have a Viking Ebonite brush and noticed it's looking rather dull. Had no idea they oxidize over time. I'll have to get some of that polish. Aren't bowling balls made out of Ebonite? What kind of polish do those use?View attachment 1971830
Mühle Purist, Silvertip Badger, Ebonite
This silvertip badger from Mühle is the second brush I ever bought; it's also the most expensive in my humble collection. After using the cheapest Mühle synthetic brush for about three years, I really wanted to try a badger and I figured if I'm going the badger route why not go all in and get the highest quality I know (at the time). I haven't yet discovered B&B and had no idea about brushes, but I was very happy with my small synthetic from Mühle. Clearly their badger brushes would be top notch as well - and they are.
Even though the knot size is on the smaller side with 21mm, the Purist brush is a delight to use. It has a little less backbone than my subsequent badger brushes and a little bit more scratch on account that this is an untreated knot. I still enjoy using this brush and I just love that ebonite handle.
Some of Mühle's knots are interchangeable, meaning that the knot can be screwed out of the handle and replaced. This was initially only an option with Purist and maybe Rocca brushes but new Sophist brushes have the same option. Normally, there isn't any need to remove the knot, but in the case of the Ebonite handle it is actually helpful.
Ebonite being vulcanized rubber, tends to slightly oxidize and dull over time. At least that is what happens with this brush. It requires a little bit of TLC once in a while, to remove the whitish oxidation layer and bring the handle to a lovely shine. I've found a good product to do just that - Pipe Stem Polish. Many, not all, pipe stems are made of ebonite and they as well dull and oxidize over time. Pipe manufacturers such as Savinelli have a polish just for that purpose. Whenever my ebonite handle needs a refresher I can simply screw out the knot and use this pipe stem polish to bring the ebonite to this lustrous shine. Having the option to remove the knot for that purpose is quite helpful, as I don't want any of the pipe stem polish to end up in the knot.
This silvertip badger knot is now almost 2 years old and I have a feeling that untreated badger knots have a long dial-in time. My guess is that the knot needed about a year to soften up and become a master latherer. I could be completely wrong, of course - maybe I've become a better latherer in that time. Nevertheless, my gut feeling is that this brush has become better with age just like a fine wine.
Do you see a kind of whitish residue on your handle? Looks a bit like shaving soap residue. Mine has both the dullness and the whitish layer, but I can assure you that it's not soap residue as I can't clean it off with water and elbow grease, and I keep my gear clean after each shave. That white "residue" is the oxidation.Thanks for the tip. I have a Viking Ebonite brush and noticed it's looking rather dull. Had no idea they oxidize over time. I'll have to get some of that polish. Aren't bowling balls made out of Ebonite? What kind of polish do those use?
I'm not 100 % certain this Culmak Junior is a badger brush. I'm hoping you fine gentlemen can provide me with a definitive answer as to whether or not it belongs in this thread.