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Solar charging system

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The Instigator
Thought I'd see who out there uses solar energy and for what application.

Just hooked up my first solar controller system yesterday; baby steps, but I'm pleased.

At minimum you need a battery, solar panels and a controller (which regulates electricity's coming and going).

I used a 12V car battery (next will be a proper deep-cycle battery), and inexpensive Chinese controller (which does have USB output) and Goal Zero Nomad 7, in this photo. I have a better four-panel 20W Anker but this was a test.



In the (poor cell phone) photo you can see three green lights- Solar, Battery and Load- which means I hooked it up right and didn't fry anything. :lol:



This one you can see the panels, ironically charging under a shop light 'cause it was dark when I finished. Anyway.

With this small system I can

A. Charge a 12V car battery from the sun.

B. Use that to charge USB devices (phone, etc.).

C. Power other USB battery banks with SolarJack 40W-equivalent LED lights- effectively lighting my house.

We live in a hurricane prone area ... not really a prepper but I like self-sufficiency in an emergency. Propane runs out, hopefully the sun won't. (Yes, I need to grow this- more panels, batts, and a better controller. It's just a successful test).

In the unlikely event of a solar flare, all this stuff fits into two .50-cal. ammo boxes (except the 12V). Should protect it.

Are there any solar power users / fans / tinkerers in the house?


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I've been interested in Solar Power for years but don't have anything hooked up right now.

I've looked into converting my house but haven't done so yet ... the start-up costs and long-term benefits don't pan out to be advantageous at my age. I'm 61 now, and if I'd gotten into a solar-powered house 20 years ago I still wouldn't have broken even by now.

I do like the idea you propose of taking "baby steps." I could swing a small set-up like you have to keep some essential devices alive during black-outs, and leave the rest of the house hooked up to the mains to fend for itself in a storm.
 

simon1

Self Ignored by Vista
Cool!!!

I haven't done anything solar due to the mentioned return on investment, but one time I was at a restaurant on the windy side of Cozumel off the Yucatan (those that have been to the island are familiar with Coconuts I'm sure) where there is no electricity. They had lights and music going so I asked the waiter what they did for electricity. He just kinda shrugged and nonchalantly said "Car battery and solar panel."

That set up you have should do a fine job for its intended purpose.
 
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Ad Astra

The Instigator
Exactly ... cannot convert the house; just proving the theory works and getting basic lighting and phone-charging under solar options.

My cost, $20! Already had the car battery and the Goal Zero Nomad 7. The controller is a minor one for the $20, but it has a USB output jack (5V, 2.1 amp).

The USB lights, not shown, are only about $12-16 each on Amazon. At 40W equivalent, they come in cool white and warm tones. They can daisy-chain, too.

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I've had a 10K solar system on my house for about six months now and it's working great. I'm not off the grid (can't per HOA rules) so I still have an electric bill. Where I live electricity is expensive and there's a lot of sunlight available so it does save me money every month. With the kids still living in the house I do still have a decent electric bill. I suspect as the kids get older and eventually move out the solar system will likely completely cover the electrical needs of my wife and myself. For us it was a good decision.
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
Hmm. No one noticed I had a 5 volt panel hooked to a 12 volt battery ... I noticed, when it wouldn't charge! :lol:

All the lights DID light up, though.

Amazon has since sent a proper 12 volt, 10 watt panel and I'm in the small-scale electricity business.

Added a 500 watt AC power inverter and I was running power tools earlier off battery, recharging by sun ... "proof of concept" is working.

The "Photovoltaic for Dummies" book is helping, too. :blush:


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simon1

Self Ignored by Vista
Hey, if you were using a 5 volt panel for a 12 volt battery...Wouldn't that just mean it would take a little over twice as long as normal to charge the battery? :lol:

Good to hear you got it up and running.
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
Mike, hopefully your pulling my leg ... For anyone else, it's like uphill downhill .... Charge must be greater than 12v to charge 12v. New panel goes up to 18v.

The Nomad 7 shown charges at 5.18v or so ... For a 5v USB battery bank.

Amps, watts, volts- just divide one into the other, and carry the 5. :tongue_smThat gives you the impedance, or imps.


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simon1

Self Ignored by Vista
The only thing I know about electricity is that you walk into a room, flip the switch, and the lights come on.
 
I have a small home out in the middle of West Texas (though I don't often get out there). The house is off the grid, and completely solar powered.

When I built the place, I made the walls thick, with heavy insulation, as well as deep insulation above the ceiling, and even under the floor. I used double-paned windows, and arranged the windows and eaves of the roof to let sun in during the winter, and keep it out in the summer. A small heater will keep it warm, and a small air conditioner will keep it cool. The solar panels were salvaged from road signs knocked down in accidents, and the storage system is a series of very large 1.5v batteries in a 24v configuration. The house has adequate power 24 hours per day, and can power a refrigerator, AC unit, and lights.

From time to time, the panels need to be cleaned to get the dust off of them, and in the winter they can be covered with snow. The batteries require water from time to time. Other than that, the system is very low maintenance.
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
I have a small home out in the middle of West Texas (though I don't often get out there). The house is off the grid, and completely solar powered.

When I built the place, I made the walls thick, with heavy insulation, as well as deep insulation above the ceiling, and even under the floor. I used double-paned windows, and arranged the windows and eaves of the roof to let sun in during the winter, and keep it out in the summer. A small heater will keep it warm, and a small air conditioner will keep it cool. The solar panels were salvaged from road signs knocked down in accidents, and the storage system is a series of very large 1.5v batteries in a 24v configuration. The house has adequate power 24 hours per day, and can power a refrigerator, AC unit, and lights.

From time to time, the panels need to be cleaned to get the dust off of them, and in the winter they can be covered with snow. The batteries require water from time to time. Other than that, the system is very low maintenance.

Nicely done! That's exactly the kind of skill I'm hoping to acquire, even if the place is a trailer or hunting camp.


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The only thing I know about electricity is that you walk into a room, flip the switch, and the lights come on.

I know only slightly more than that. I know that if you touch an electric fence, you better be holding your little brother's hand.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Consider a pair of 220ah 6v golf cart batteries, in series. Best bang for the buck. My boat is electric and my battery bank is 8 GC2 golf cart batteries from Sam's club at $85/ea so I have a 10.5kwh bank for about 1/10 the cost of many recommended systems. Only drawback to flooded cell lead acid batts is you can only discharge them to 50% or so without significantly shortening batt lifespan. niMH and LiFePO4 batts can be discharged much more deeply, and last longer. For a small system they may be worth the extra cost.

Keep all 12v wiring SHORT, and use heavy gauge cable. Line losses kill you at 12v, which is why most electric boats and cars and even serious ebikes are 48v or higher. 12v stuff for very small systems is cheap and easily sourced, but tremendously inefficient. Eventually you may outgrow your small scale setup, and if or when you do, I strongly advise looking into 48v up to 144v. 48v has many of the availability and economy of scale cost advantages of 12v. A used battery pack from an electric car can make good sense if it still has plenty of capacity and you pick it up cheap.
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
Consider a pair of 220ah 6v golf cart batteries, in series. Best bang for the buck. My boat is electric and my battery bank is 8 GC2 golf cart batteries from Sam's club at $85/ea so I have a 10.5kwh bank for about 1/10 the cost of many recommended systems. Only drawback to flooded cell lead acid batts is you can only discharge them to 50% or so without significantly shortening batt lifespan. niMH and LiFePO4 batts can be discharged much more deeply, and last longer. For a small system they may be worth the extra cost.

Keep all 12v wiring SHORT, and use heavy gauge cable. Line losses kill you at 12v, which is why most electric boats and cars and even serious ebikes are 48v or higher. 12v stuff for very small systems is cheap and easily sourced, but tremendously inefficient. Eventually you may outgrow your small scale setup, and if or when you do, I strongly advise looking into 48v up to 144v. 48v has many of the availability and economy of scale cost advantages of 12v. A used battery pack from an electric car can make good sense if it still has plenty of capacity and you pick it up cheap.

More good from a voice of experience!

Yes- locally, golf cart 6Vs (massive) are about $90. Reading a "Dummies" book now about home setups.

I'm just getting a kick out of the small-scale success- emergency lighting with 40W equivalent LED lights.

Need more PV modules! More battery! Better cables!


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EDIT: Hmm, wonder if there are any wrecked Toyota Prius' laying around ....
 
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