Here's a report on my 12[SUP]th[/SUP], 13[SUP]th[/SUP], 14[SUP]th[/SUP], 15[SUP]th[/SUP], and 16[SUP]th[/SUP] shave. You can read about the rest of my shaving odyssey here: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/256792-New-member-checking-in
My 12[SUP]th[/SUP] to 15[SUP]th[/SUP] shave were pretty much like my 8[SUP]th[/SUP] to 11[SUP]th[/SUP] shave: one pass WTG, one pass XTG, with the Merkur Futur staying at the setting 2.5 the whole time. I did not attempt an ATG pass, as I said I might. I just didnt feel ready for it, to be honest; I was afraid of cutting myself. They were mostly uneventful and nice shaves, although I did get some irritation on my two pesky trouble spots on the first few shaves (two little areas about the size of my thumb on the sides of my lower neck). But I changed my technique for the last few shaves, coming at the hairs with an extra uber-ultra-light touch on those two spots, straight up and down on that XTG pass. That seemed to do the trick, cutting smooth, and the irritation stopped.
So for my 16[SUP]th[/SUP] shave, I loaded a fresh new Feather blade, whipped my lather with extra care, trying to get it to wet yoghurt consistency as some people here have suggested. The lather never got quite that consistency, though; tending more towards a wet meringue consistency, but still very slick and thick. There was no friction or skipping, so I guess my lather is okay. For my 16[SUP]th[/SUP] shave, I decided thatif I felt good after the WTG and XTG passesI was going to attempt an ATG pass.
So I did my WTG pass, then my XTG pass as I normally do and then I did an ATG pass for the first time. I dialed the Merkur Futur all the way down to the lowest setting, 1, as suggested by geofatboy in his video on shaving with the Futur: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxeifm7ReKg. Surprisingly, it was nice and uneventful, actually. I think the hairs were so short after the first two passes that there was nothing for the blade to catch on and cut me. The razor dutifully scraped the rest of the stubble away and left me with a very smooth face. I wasnt even scared while doing it; it just felt natural, even on areas that normally scare the crap out of me, like the upper lip. I did have to touch up a few areas lightly that were still rough after the ATG pass (the little spots on the sides of my mouth, the sides of the upper lip, and directly under the jaw line beneath my chin). But after that, smooth all over, no irritation.
Okay, so here are the lessons learned for me, I think:
I now understand why people say you should not even attempt an ATG pass until you have mastered WTG and XTG. The reason why is because you have to get your shave as close and smooth as possible with each pass before moving on to the next. You have to perform each pass quickly without going over the same area more than a few times, ideally only once! And your skin has to be healthy and irritation-free after each pass, too. If not, then the blade wont cut properly and you might get nicked. You also need time and practice over those first weeks to build the muscle memory and develop the technique to cut close on those first passes with as light a touch as possible, as few strokes as possible, and as little irritation as possible. That leaves the skin healthy and prepared for the next level of closeness. Otherwise, if the skin is already irritated and the beard cut incorrectly, doing an ATG pass is just asking for trouble. I now think the three month rule is crap, though. You dont have to wait three months. But you definitely need to wait until you are getting close and irritation-free using just one WTG and one XTG pass. Then youre ready for ATG, I think. You let your face be your guide, focus on your technique, and be patient, I think.
My 12[SUP]th[/SUP] to 15[SUP]th[/SUP] shave were pretty much like my 8[SUP]th[/SUP] to 11[SUP]th[/SUP] shave: one pass WTG, one pass XTG, with the Merkur Futur staying at the setting 2.5 the whole time. I did not attempt an ATG pass, as I said I might. I just didnt feel ready for it, to be honest; I was afraid of cutting myself. They were mostly uneventful and nice shaves, although I did get some irritation on my two pesky trouble spots on the first few shaves (two little areas about the size of my thumb on the sides of my lower neck). But I changed my technique for the last few shaves, coming at the hairs with an extra uber-ultra-light touch on those two spots, straight up and down on that XTG pass. That seemed to do the trick, cutting smooth, and the irritation stopped.
So for my 16[SUP]th[/SUP] shave, I loaded a fresh new Feather blade, whipped my lather with extra care, trying to get it to wet yoghurt consistency as some people here have suggested. The lather never got quite that consistency, though; tending more towards a wet meringue consistency, but still very slick and thick. There was no friction or skipping, so I guess my lather is okay. For my 16[SUP]th[/SUP] shave, I decided thatif I felt good after the WTG and XTG passesI was going to attempt an ATG pass.
So I did my WTG pass, then my XTG pass as I normally do and then I did an ATG pass for the first time. I dialed the Merkur Futur all the way down to the lowest setting, 1, as suggested by geofatboy in his video on shaving with the Futur: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xxeifm7ReKg. Surprisingly, it was nice and uneventful, actually. I think the hairs were so short after the first two passes that there was nothing for the blade to catch on and cut me. The razor dutifully scraped the rest of the stubble away and left me with a very smooth face. I wasnt even scared while doing it; it just felt natural, even on areas that normally scare the crap out of me, like the upper lip. I did have to touch up a few areas lightly that were still rough after the ATG pass (the little spots on the sides of my mouth, the sides of the upper lip, and directly under the jaw line beneath my chin). But after that, smooth all over, no irritation.
Okay, so here are the lessons learned for me, I think:
I now understand why people say you should not even attempt an ATG pass until you have mastered WTG and XTG. The reason why is because you have to get your shave as close and smooth as possible with each pass before moving on to the next. You have to perform each pass quickly without going over the same area more than a few times, ideally only once! And your skin has to be healthy and irritation-free after each pass, too. If not, then the blade wont cut properly and you might get nicked. You also need time and practice over those first weeks to build the muscle memory and develop the technique to cut close on those first passes with as light a touch as possible, as few strokes as possible, and as little irritation as possible. That leaves the skin healthy and prepared for the next level of closeness. Otherwise, if the skin is already irritated and the beard cut incorrectly, doing an ATG pass is just asking for trouble. I now think the three month rule is crap, though. You dont have to wait three months. But you definitely need to wait until you are getting close and irritation-free using just one WTG and one XTG pass. Then youre ready for ATG, I think. You let your face be your guide, focus on your technique, and be patient, I think.