General Cycling Questions

Live2Ride · Aug 19, 2009

perry said:
Went riding tonight and my seat was creaking. Go figure. While we were checking out the bike trying to locate the creak, the two guys (employees at the LBS) both told me I needed clipless shoes and pedals. I expressed my reservations about falling over, and they told me to harden up

Try taking the seat post out, clean it and the tube, put some grease on the seat post (I'm partial to trailer bearing grease) and re-install the seat post. Good luck. Bike noises can be really annoying.

airplanedoc · Aug 19, 2009

No idea why your choice of pedals would make your seat creak, But, the switch to clipless is definately worth it in my opinion. Unless you are going to get really serious, I would look at the larger clipless pedals. Mine are pretty small (crank brothers candy C), and really hurt my feet if I hop on the bike for a short ride in street shoes.

AD

perry · Aug 19, 2009

We were thinking it was the pedals creaking, because I was hearing the sound as I was pedaling. It felt like there was a little play in the pedals... So the way to fix that would have been to replace the pedals. Hence, clipless. Then we tracked it down to the seat. It's at the top of the post where it attaches to the saddle, someplace. I guess you guys always get your troubleshooting right on the first attempt?

Anyways, my point was more about being skeered to try the pedals. I found the shop through meetup.com because the shop is the meeting point for group rides a few times a week. Friendly enough guys. Haven't bought anything from them.

tblech · Aug 19, 2009

How do you shave with a cannondale?

Wendy · Aug 19, 2009

What type of gear do you were in cold months to stay comfortable without being bulky?

gearguywb · Aug 19, 2009

Wendy said:
What type of gear do you were in cold months to stay comfortable without being bulky?

Layering is key. I use a couple of different weights of tights depending on effort and temperature. On my upper boday, a wicking undershirt, wool jersey and a vest or jacket as appropriate. The extremties are the hardest to keep warm. Good wind proof gloves and a cap under the helmet, and shoe covers are a must.

airplanedoc · Aug 19, 2009

How do you shave with a cannondale?

Its called road rash, Not a bit of hair left.

I guess you guys always get your troubleshooting right on the first attempt?

Ahh, at least I wasn't the only one to miss that part. I read that you knew it was the seat, then someone told you to change your pedals.

Clipless are the way to go, I would just get the ones that you can still wear street shoes or clip in bike shoes with, I occassionally like to hop on the bike to run to the neighbors, and the postage stamp size pedals hurt without the plate in the bottom of the shoes.

Mojo88 · Aug 20, 2009

The double vs triple debate:.... I was talking to a friend that rides who probably average 100 per week and the topic of double vs triple came up. I ride a triple as we live in an area that has some fairly hilly terrain. He also rides a triple , but some of the members of the local club will only ride a double. They call the triple the " granny gear" . Personally I just don't care as I am not going to be riding in the tour any time soon, but there seems to be almost an elitist attitude when it comes to topic of which is better. Has anyone else experienced this?

Wendy · Aug 20, 2009

gearguywb said:
Layering is key. I use a couple of different weights of tights depending on effort and temperature. On my upper boday, a wicking undershirt, wool jersey and a vest or jacket as appropriate. The extremties are the hardest to keep warm. Good wind proof gloves and a cap under the helmet, and shoe covers are a must.

Shoe covers, go figure. I had no idea there was such a thing. I was riding this morning it was quite warm but my feet were not. I guess I have my answer now. I must have poor circulation from my past years of smoking that my hands and feet are always cold.

Wendy · Aug 20, 2009

tblech said:
How do you shave with a cannondale?

I shaved real well a couple weeks ago with my Trek. :ohmy:

Brodirt · Aug 20, 2009

Wendy said:
Shoe covers, go figure. I had no idea there was such a thing. I was riding this morning it was quite warm but my feet were not. I guess I have my answer now. I must have poor circulation from my past years of smoking that my hands and feet are always cold.

For when shoe covers aren't enough:

http://www.warmers.com/ItemDetails....pval=0|1|FW10&pIds=Showcase|CategoryID|itemid

They work great!

RazorDingo · Aug 20, 2009

Wendy said:
What type of gear do you were in cold months

You folks in Missouri may have a somewhat different definition of "cold" weather than people in the upper midwest.

That said, there are a few fairly basic principles to keep in mind for cold-weather cycling.

1) Vigorous, athletic cycling creates a tremendous amount of body heat. More than enough to keep your core temperature comfortable in all but the most frigid sub-zero conditions. The trick is managing that heat.

2) One of the biggest challenges the winter cyclist faces is managing sweat. This generally means wearing wicking fabrics, such as polypropylene or coolmax underwear. It also means NOT wearing a jacket that will trap that moisture next to your body.

3) The third principle is that cold air temperature plus the 15 - 25 mph headwind cycling creates, means you HAVE to protect your exposed skin from the wind. A long sleeved jersey, plus tights are the minimum for any riding when the temps. drop into the thirties or below. Wind-stopper tights and vest, with coolmax fleece underwear beneath, will keep you plenty warm in virtually any conditions.

4) The fourth principle is that, despite all the body heat you create, your extremities - toes, fingers, and head - need extra protection. This ranges from shoe covers and full-finger gloves in "cool" weather - all the way down to chemical heat packs and lobster-mitt gloves on really brutal days.

To see what is really possible in terms of cold-weather cycling - check out the maniacs at Icebike.

Lastly, as a general rule, you ought to go out wearing a little less bulky clothing than you think you'll need. Its amazing how toasty you get after a couple of miles.

Mysterion · Aug 20, 2009

Another option: Winter shoes. I love my Lake shoes; yes, they're ridiculously expensive, but I've had mine for years, and many thousands of miles. If I added up all the money I spent before on shoe covers and such, these look like a good long-term investment. Like Wendy, my feet are always cold in the winter. These really do the job--I kept up 120-150 miles a week all winter, frequently riding in the teens.

Brodirt · Aug 20, 2009

Mysterion said:
Another option: Winter shoes. I love my Lake shoes; yes, they're ridiculously expensive, but I've had mine for years, and many thousands of miles. If I added up all the money I spent before on shoe covers and such, these look like a good long-term investment. Like Wendy, my feet are always cold in the winter. These really do the job--I kept up 120-150 miles a week all winter, frequently riding in the teens.

The Lake winter shoes are excellent. They can be found on line for much cheaper. They are usually the prior year's model and are under $100.00. Well worth it for the person thinking about riding outside.

I think though that riding outside in conditions that would warrant these shoes is usually deep into the winter when you have ice and snow on the road and at that point its best to take it inside.

perry · Aug 20, 2009

Tonight our "group" was just the bike shop manager and myself. He offered to loan me a pair of shoes and pedals next time I come out so I can try them out before buying. And adjust my brakes to see if we can get rid of the rubbing.

I got a wool jersey, my first, from Sierra Trading Post yesterday. Nice bright green color! Felt a little itchy when I tried it on, but I think I'll like it.

TimmyBoston · Aug 20, 2009

perry said:
Tonight our "group" was just the bike shop manager and myself. He offered to loan me a pair of shoes and pedals next time I come out so I can try them out before buying. And adjust my brakes to see if we can get rid of the rubbing.

I got a wool jersey, my first, from Sierra Trading Post yesterday. Nice bright green color! Felt a little itchy when I tried it on, but I think I'll like it.

Perry, which bike shop do you go to? And what's the ride like? How fast do you guys go? I may stop by one week.

Wendy · Aug 20, 2009

Brodirt said:
For when shoe covers aren't enough:

http://www.warmers.com/ItemDetails....pval=0|1|FW10&pIds=Showcase|CategoryID|itemid

They work great!

I will purchasing those real soon. : ) If my feet and hands get cold I am done.

Wendy · Aug 20, 2009

RazorDingo said:
You folks in Missouri may have a somewhat different definition of "cold" weather than people in the upper midwest.

That said, there are a few fairly basic principles to keep in mind for cold-weather cycling.

1) Vigorous, athletic cycling creates a tremendous amount of body heat. More than enough to keep your core temperature comfortable in all but the most frigid sub-zero conditions. The trick is managing that heat.

2) One of the biggest challenges the winter cyclist faces is managing sweat. This generally means wearing wicking fabrics, such as polypropylene or coolmax underwear. It also means NOT wearing a jacket that will trap that moisture next to your body.

3) The third principle is that cold air temperature plus the 15 - 25 mph headwind cycling creates, means you HAVE to protect your exposed skin from the wind. A long sleeved jersey, plus tights are the minimum for any riding when the temps. drop into the thirties or below. Wind-stopper tights and vest, with coolmax fleece underwear beneath, will keep you plenty warm in virtually any conditions.

4) The fourth principle is that, despite all the body heat you create, your extremities - toes, fingers, and head - need extra protection. This ranges from shoe covers and full-finger gloves in "cool" weather - all the way down to chemical heat packs and lobster-mitt gloves on really brutal days.

To see what is really possible in terms of cold-weather cycling - check out the maniacs at Icebike.

Lastly, as a general rule, you ought to go out wearing a little less bulky clothing than you think you'll need. Its amazing how toasty you get after a couple of miles.

All great info. Thanks. I lived in Michigan years ago that is real cold and I can not handle that type of cold. What we get here in Missouri is plenty cold for me. Chances are I will be investing in an indoor trainer I am a little sissy in the cold :biggrin:

The only drawback to indoors is I would not have a riding partner who helps on days like today when I was just to darn tired to get up.

TinFish · Aug 20, 2009

Mojo88 said:
The double vs triple debate:.... I was talking to a friend that rides who probably average 100 per week and the topic of double vs triple came up. I ride a triple as we live in an area that has some fairly hilly terrain. He also rides a triple , but some of the members of the local club will only ride a double. They call the triple the " granny gear" . Personally I just don't care as I am not going to be riding in the tour any time soon, but there seems to be almost an elitist attitude when it comes to topic of which is better. Has anyone else experienced this?

In the cycling club I used to ride with, there was a certain amount of machismo attached to riding hilly centuries without the use of the granny gear, but it was in good fun. We didn't have separate clubs for the racing team and the more leisure riders. As to which is better, that depends on how strong a cyclist you are and whether anyone will be impressed if you blow out your knees climbing in too high a gear ( I've done that...no one was impressed) :blushing:

I think that no matter how strong you are, it doesn't hurt to have the triple, and there's no shame in using it if you need it, as long as you enjoy your rides.

gearguywb · Aug 21, 2009

There are a lot of options when it comes to gearing. A triple is one of them but there certainly is a fair amount of attitude when you show up for a "spirited" ride on one!

Another option is a set of compact cranks. I have been using them for several years now in both Colorado and Western NC. I am not the stereotypical sized climber by any stretch of the imagination. The triple works great for me, and if you are contemplating a century (or more) of very mountainous terrain you can swap out the cassette and get some real climbing gears that pretty much equal what a triple will give you.

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General Cycling Questions

Live2Ride

airplanedoc

perry

tblech

Wendy

gearguywb

airplanedoc

Mojo88

Wendy

Wendy

Brodirt

RazorDingo

Mysterion

Brodirt

perry

TimmyBoston

Wendy

Wendy

TinFish

gearguywb

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