They make a beautiful car and I gotta believe they would be fun to drive,,,,, but we will never know
Shell Cordovan Strops DIY
- Thread starter Biltong & Boerewors
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Veg tanned horsehide is notorious for this wandering. The fiber structure is so tough even with a straight edge the blade wants to either wanted away from the edge or will force the straight edge over causing a wavy line. I imagine shell being from the same back half of the horse being as tough or tougher.
I didn't have much wandering, but I was using a full hollow shave-ready razor... so crazy sharp relative to what I expect a leather knife usually would be. Cut nice and straight along the side of a plastic ruler.
Problem I had was I was cutting on a cardboard box and I didn't want to cut through into the table beneath, so I didn't push down much, so it would drift upwards and I'd have spots where the leather wasn't cut through (just scored 1/2-3/4 through)... So I had to go back and reslice those areas, which left some messiness along the edge that I had to clean up.
Future cuts I'm going to put a few layers of cardboard and bear down more to ensure a nice clean cut in one pass.
All in all, it worked... but it was somewhat nerve racking... probably mostly because I'm not familiar with cutting leather so I wasn't positive how it was going to behave.
Problem I had was I was cutting on a cardboard box and I didn't want to cut through into the table beneath, so I didn't push down much, so it would drift upwards and I'd have spots where the leather wasn't cut through (just scored 1/2-3/4 through)... So I had to go back and reslice those areas, which left some messiness along the edge that I had to clean up.
Future cuts I'm going to put a few layers of cardboard and bear down more to ensure a nice clean cut in one pass.
All in all, it worked... but it was somewhat nerve racking... probably mostly because I'm not familiar with cutting leather so I wasn't positive how it was going to behave.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Plywood makes a great table topper for this.
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- #145
The first feel was strange, very fast and because it's so thin and flexible it feels like you have to keep a fair tension on it. After a few days, I am really enjoying it, can't see myself going back to cow hide. I think the elasticity would lead to a consistent edge contact.
Shell is the finest and most consistent surfaced leather I have ever had my hands on, and that translates into an enjoyable stropping experience for me.
Of course I know I have a few "strop killers" that won't be allowed on my precious shell, only the well behaved ones. Strops and razors are tools to be used and not just looked at, but to keep it in the best possible condition for as long as I can, some common-sense precautions are in order.
Edge -wise, agree with Slash, no difference even though it feels like you are doing less because of the light draw.
That's basically the story with cordovan... It's sooooo fast you almost don't feel in control on it, definitely only for well behaved razors... No spike toes allowed... But it is a real pleasure to strop on.
The more grippy vintage shells inspire a little more confidence and are my go to strops, but cordovan is a nice alternative when I feel like a change.
I remember a member here bought a shell and sold 2x13" strops for $30 or so on bst back when I was starting out just to let folks feel what cordovan felt like under a razor. I didn't feel any need for it based on that piece, but once I tried a full size strop of it, I understood the appeal.
The more grippy vintage shells inspire a little more confidence and are my go to strops, but cordovan is a nice alternative when I feel like a change.
I remember a member here bought a shell and sold 2x13" strops for $30 or so on bst back when I was starting out just to let folks feel what cordovan felt like under a razor. I didn't feel any need for it based on that piece, but once I tried a full size strop of it, I understood the appeal.
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- #147
Strangely enough, I have a pair of Sheffield razors that don’t look like they can damage a strop, but every time I strop one of them you can see leather shavings on the spine where it will make contact with a hone. Maybe they need a bit of hone-wear 
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Spine shavings usually say more about the strop than the razor for me. Sharp lines where hone wear starts of course collect them.... But usually only on strops that were VERY dried up and required heavy conditioning when I restored them... It's basically scraping off all the dried up surface material that my oiling pasted down. I've never seen a new strop produce much spine goop.
On restored strops, I consider it a good thing...raking off the junky dried out material to hopefully eventually get down to healthy strop.
Next time I use a recently restored well aged strop I will take a photo of the razor and tissue I wipe it on... Sometimes it's an impressive amount of crud.
On restored strops, I consider it a good thing...raking off the junky dried out material to hopefully eventually get down to healthy strop.
Next time I use a recently restored well aged strop I will take a photo of the razor and tissue I wipe it on... Sometimes it's an impressive amount of crud.
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- #149
I think you are right. Even though I could see the scrapings, I didn't notice anything on the strop.
Coincidentally it was one of them that nicked my long-time-favourite strop. I was interrupted by my daughter while stropping, and instead of taking the blade away I paused half-way in the middle of the strop. Must have moved because the next thing I could feel was the blade cutting the strop! Small nick, but in order to get it so it doesn't feel like it's catching, I had to carefully shave about 1/4 inch rounded depression in it. Really ruined my day.
Lesson learned, don't stop halfway and don't rest the blade on a strop!
Coincidentally it was one of them that nicked my long-time-favourite strop. I was interrupted by my daughter while stropping, and instead of taking the blade away I paused half-way in the middle of the strop. Must have moved because the next thing I could feel was the blade cutting the strop! Small nick, but in order to get it so it doesn't feel like it's catching, I had to carefully shave about 1/4 inch rounded depression in it. Really ruined my day.
Lesson learned, don't stop halfway and don't rest the blade on a strop!
So here is an example. You are right that certain shapes to the spine and a sharp corner at the top of the spine does increase this effect, but this razor is perfectly average in that aspect. This just happens to be probably the most dried out piece of leather I've ever restored and I just got done oiling it yesterday... So this is probably the most strop scum I've ever pulled off of the spine of a razor.
Typically when I wipe a razor after stropping that has this effect it comes off in a nice clean line on the tissue ... there was so much on this one it really just balled up, but it is a good example of what you're talking about.
Typically when I wipe a razor after stropping that has this effect it comes off in a nice clean line on the tissue ... there was so much on this one it really just balled up, but it is a good example of what you're talking about.
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Fire Hose is here.
Made in China, so Post 1972. Appears flax with a very thin coating inside (not an inner rubber tube like modern stuff... maybe wax or some kind of rubberized coating?
3" wide when flat. Cut out 29 and 28" lengths for the two strops I've made, but I'm gonna cut out single-sided 2.5" strips for them rather than have a 3" linen and 2.5" leather combo. First piece had one frayed section so I only got one side out of it (the second piece would be 2.25" wide before hitting the frayed section), but the second piece I'll be able to cut two single-sided strops out of it... Debating if I want to make the ~15-20" strops 3" wide instead of 2.5" to make a cleaner strop with the full 2-sided linen. Will decide later.
Currently waiting on the first two pieces to go through the wash then I can assemble and take pictures of strops 1 & 2.
Made in China, so Post 1972. Appears flax with a very thin coating inside (not an inner rubber tube like modern stuff... maybe wax or some kind of rubberized coating?
3" wide when flat. Cut out 29 and 28" lengths for the two strops I've made, but I'm gonna cut out single-sided 2.5" strips for them rather than have a 3" linen and 2.5" leather combo. First piece had one frayed section so I only got one side out of it (the second piece would be 2.25" wide before hitting the frayed section), but the second piece I'll be able to cut two single-sided strops out of it... Debating if I want to make the ~15-20" strops 3" wide instead of 2.5" to make a cleaner strop with the full 2-sided linen. Will decide later.
Currently waiting on the first two pieces to go through the wash then I can assemble and take pictures of strops 1 & 2.
Sure thing. It's actually 3 & 3/8" wide though, not a straight 3".
Assuming the seller was right about the length, I've got 90+ ft left (and the inside stuff is looking cleaner than the ends). If you're interested in a swap, PM me with how much length you need and remind me your shipping address so we can see if parcel makes sense or if we should try and use a padded flat rate or what.
Assuming the seller was right about the length, I've got 90+ ft left (and the inside stuff is looking cleaner than the ends). If you're interested in a swap, PM me with how much length you need and remind me your shipping address so we can see if parcel makes sense or if we should try and use a padded flat rate or what.
So done washing... Black rubber? coating inside. Hard water buildup was hiding it.
Cutting it down and washing it let it curl up so I'm weighing it down flat now to see if it straightens out or if I have to keep it whole.
But here's how it all looks assembled.
Cutting it down and washing it let it curl up so I'm weighing it down flat now to see if it straightens out or if I have to keep it whole.
But here's how it all looks assembled.
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So I just tried the 28" piece that I'd washed without cutting yet (in pic below) and you're kind of right it doesn't sit perfectly flat it pulls flat so it works fine but it's noisy and it kind of feels like the razor is having to flatten it out while it's stropped.
So I took the piece that I had cut out and glued it back into the backing piece that I had cut it from and once the glue sets I'm going to re-cut it into a two-layer glued together piece to see if just gluing the front to the back provides sufficient stability. If not I'm probably going to look into what you did by putting a third layer in between.
I used super glue this time because it was what I had on hand, but I'm guessing a spray on fabric glue would be ideal, as I could just spray it down the hose and then just run something over it to make it flat and hold it together until it's set.
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Through singeing it and looking at some frayed ends, I think this may not be linen. Posted some pictures below. Any thoughts?
edit: Soldering iron melts it... Nylon I'm thinking.
I'll test it out and make sure it works fine... but in the meantime I dropped a lot more money on a vintage Flax Linen 50ft'er with the original label identifying it and detailing the instructions on how to care for a flax linen hose. Looks to be closer to the Diameter I need as well.
edit: Soldering iron melts it... Nylon I'm thinking.
I'll test it out and make sure it works fine... but in the meantime I dropped a lot more money on a vintage Flax Linen 50ft'er with the original label identifying it and detailing the instructions on how to care for a flax linen hose. Looks to be closer to the Diameter I need as well.
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Also, it was only 50ft... lol... definitely should have measured it before I cut pieces off and left feedback.
Bought it as 100ft of 1.5" (1.5" is the diameter I needed). It's 50ft of 2". Seems like the sort of thing I'll be able to find all sorts of projects for at least. Just need to think on it.
Bought it as 100ft of 1.5" (1.5" is the diameter I needed). It's 50ft of 2". Seems like the sort of thing I'll be able to find all sorts of projects for at least. Just need to think on it.
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Inch and a half refers to the diameter, not the flattened width. When that hose is under working pressure and it is round, it will have a diameter of about 1-1/2" or the metric quasi equivelant. The two basic sizes of fire hose are 1-1/2" and 2-1/2". There is no 2" but if you are measuring the flattened width, I can see that being pretty close to 2", yeah.
I find all sorts of uses for fire hose. It makes dandy knife and tool sheaths, and chafing gear on my boat's mooring lines. Really handy stuff, very tough but you can sew it with a Speedy Stitcher or a sail needle and palm.
I know it's diameter.
1.5" Diameter would be about 2.5" wide flattened. This is about 3.5" wide, so roughly 2-2.25" diameter... maybe 2.5" under pressure, then.
1.5" Diameter would be about 2.5" wide flattened. This is about 3.5" wide, so roughly 2-2.25" diameter... maybe 2.5" under pressure, then.
so this is the listing I should have bought originally. The seller overnighted it with FedEx. It got here and it's from 1937, labeled vintage flax linen and lays perfectly flat and it's the exact right width... This is the exact stuff I have on a bunch of my vintage strops... Just with dubl duck fine finish linen or something similar stamped on them.
I used the nylon piece I cut and glued for my shave this morning and it works fine but I'm not going to bother trying to make any more out of it. I have got two lengths of the flax linen hose in the wash already to put on the two extra long strops... I'm thinking maybe getting that stitching kit @Slash McCoy mentioned and making dish drying mats out of some of the nylon material.
I used the nylon piece I cut and glued for my shave this morning and it works fine but I'm not going to bother trying to make any more out of it. I have got two lengths of the flax linen hose in the wash already to put on the two extra long strops... I'm thinking maybe getting that stitching kit @Slash McCoy mentioned and making dish drying mats out of some of the nylon material.
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