Scent/Fragrance of the Day - 2012
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Chanel Coromandel
Iris Bleu Gris by Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, err ... ,
Thaqeel by ASAQ, err ...
Iris Bleu Gris, ...
Well, let me explain. I put on some Thaqeel last night and I can still smell it this morning. When I woke up it wasn't very strong but I guess it has warmed up and is emanating sweet woody oud now. But I had already applied some IBG this morning as I was getting ready so while for the most part I'm getting an austere and cold but spicy iris, every now and then when I move my arm this way or that, I'm getting a sweet oud.
Thaqeel is better the second time around (I recall thumbing my nose at it originally) and this is an indication that I'm coming around to ouds - a lot of ouds have been better the second time around. My tiny sample is thick and viscous like molasses, which made its application difficult, but the opening notes and drydown are very similar to what I like about Agar Aura ouds. More importantly, it was very clean smelling and this morning it smells slightly sweet, moreso than any other oud I've tried, with an almost honey-like note. Very interesting. The thickness is still a put off, however, but I'm "warming up" to the scent. Ha! Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Although, IBG is not something I would normally pair with an oud, it does at least have an interesting spicy note to it that some liken to incense. On me it's mostly a bitter green iris with some spices added and a strong but clean musk note - a very manly iris perfume - so the sweet woody oud notes are not overly disconnected. I obviously didn't intentionally layer today but the crisp iris is a nice touch for a muggy (very much so) day and the oud notes are very grounding.
Notes for IBG include green leaves, lemon, bergamot, iris absolute, vanilla, jasmine, moss, vetiver, musk. I should note that mine is the vintage version, which is a little more powdery, while the current (reformulated) version has a little more of a suede leather note and not as "cold." There are fans of both but the vintage version is more cooling on a hot summer day.
Thaqeel by ASAQ, err ...
Iris Bleu Gris, ...
Well, let me explain. I put on some Thaqeel last night and I can still smell it this morning. When I woke up it wasn't very strong but I guess it has warmed up and is emanating sweet woody oud now. But I had already applied some IBG this morning as I was getting ready so while for the most part I'm getting an austere and cold but spicy iris, every now and then when I move my arm this way or that, I'm getting a sweet oud.
Thaqeel is better the second time around (I recall thumbing my nose at it originally) and this is an indication that I'm coming around to ouds - a lot of ouds have been better the second time around. My tiny sample is thick and viscous like molasses, which made its application difficult, but the opening notes and drydown are very similar to what I like about Agar Aura ouds. More importantly, it was very clean smelling and this morning it smells slightly sweet, moreso than any other oud I've tried, with an almost honey-like note. Very interesting. The thickness is still a put off, however, but I'm "warming up" to the scent. Ha! Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Although, IBG is not something I would normally pair with an oud, it does at least have an interesting spicy note to it that some liken to incense. On me it's mostly a bitter green iris with some spices added and a strong but clean musk note - a very manly iris perfume - so the sweet woody oud notes are not overly disconnected. I obviously didn't intentionally layer today but the crisp iris is a nice touch for a muggy (very much so) day and the oud notes are very grounding.
Notes for IBG include green leaves, lemon, bergamot, iris absolute, vanilla, jasmine, moss, vetiver, musk. I should note that mine is the vintage version, which is a little more powdery, while the current (reformulated) version has a little more of a suede leather note and not as "cold." There are fans of both but the vintage version is more cooling on a hot summer day.
The last of my sample of Fougere by Cirmes Tonsorial Parlour.
Top Notes: Neroli, Marigold, Mandarin, Juniper berry, Grapefruit
Middle Notes: Clove, Tonka bean, Clary sage, Nutmeg, Geranium
Base Notes: Itasca Red Pine, Java Vetiver, Texas Cedar, Partak Incense, Ethiopian Myrrh, Amber, Canadian Fir Balsam
The opening is pine-citrus and is magnificent. I'm catching the incense and cedar and... just wow.
This morning I put on perfume, or "woman's cologne" as is the manufacturer calls it.
I was rummaging around the basket were all unwanted colognes my Dad gets for Christmas end up, I pulled out an unassuming square bottle with the word Charlie printed on it. The bottle smelled sweet which is a plus I love sweet and spicy fragrances so I tried a little. I didn't notice anything at first apart from the scent being "delicate" which should have made me cop that something was not right, but a minute later a smell like potpourri and a drug store soap gift basket rolled into one rose out of it. It was really overpowering and nauseating I don't know how anyone could wear something like that.
I was rummaging around the basket were all unwanted colognes my Dad gets for Christmas end up, I pulled out an unassuming square bottle with the word Charlie printed on it. The bottle smelled sweet which is a plus I love sweet and spicy fragrances so I tried a little. I didn't notice anything at first apart from the scent being "delicate" which should have made me cop that something was not right, but a minute later a smell like potpourri and a drug store soap gift basket rolled into one rose out of it. It was really overpowering and nauseating I don't know how anyone could wear something like that.
Accords: Floral, Herbal, Fresh Spicy, Warm Spicy, Mossy, Earthy
Top: Lavender, Geranium
Middle: Cloves
Base: Oakmoss, Sandalwood, Patchouli
English Fern is not as floral as Wild Fern, but it also lacks its spiciness. Instead, English Fern comes across more of a soapy frag to me and is more suitable for the office than Wild Fern. Long lasting too...after 12 hours and a 15 mile run there is still a faint smell on my skin.
Wild Fern Week
Geo. F. Trumper Wild Fern (1877) - Monday
Penhaligon's English Fern (1890) - Tuesday
Olympic Orchids Olympic Rainforest (2010) - Wednesday
Slumberhouse Norne (2012) - Thursday
Nina Ricci Signoricci (vintage 1965) - Friday
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Sometimes the best layering combos are the ones you least expect would work. Would you try this combination again?
The pyramid looks interesting; would be nice to see your thoughts after a full wearing.
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No, I don't think I would try it again, but it does lead me to believe that one could create some amazing perfumes (or mukhallats) using real oud oils and other absolutes. SMK Fragrances has been there with Orris & Civet and Taha is there with his mukhallats, no doubt, but an oud/orris blend using some high end orris root extract (perhaps more expensive than oud?) might something to tackle. Taha, are you reading this?
Creed - Selection Verte
Today:
Floris London Special No. 127
Floris London Special No. 127
Knize Ten
Xpec Original--(Forgive we if I have posted any of this previously.)
I think I heard that Xpec is quite popular in Europe. Relatively affordable.
Said by its maker to be a "development of a classic chypre." I can never think what a chypre is without looking it up. Wikipedia says citrus in the the top, floral in the middle, and mossy-animalic base derived from oak moss and musk. Also, that patchouli is thought by some to be an indespensible element. Its maker says Xpec is floral in the top, spicey in the middle (whatever that is intended to mean exactly--for instance, "spicy" as in smelling of spices? or "spicy" as in sort of nose tingly, assertive), and woody-mossy in the base. Other notes by the maker say pepper, cedarwood, rose, citrus, and ginger. So, a lot going on.
Very assertive, especially in front. Great tenacity and nice evolution as those citrus/floral notes (citrus is clearly there to me, regardless of what Xpec seems to say) dissipate and the rather complex base takes center stage. Although having distinctly floral elements, very masculine. One on-line wag described it as "Aramis without the leather," witrh harsh, pungent floral notes, and dirty. I cannot do better than that to describe it! I would say, yes, very dirty.
I really like it. Is often my go to office scent, when I am not drawn to anything else in particular.
I can sure see/smell that And no wonder I really like Xpec. She seems to be credited as the designer of C&S F&M, but that is one of the C&S scents Xpec reminds me least of!
I think I heard that Xpec is quite popular in Europe. Relatively affordable.
Said by its maker to be a "development of a classic chypre." I can never think what a chypre is without looking it up. Wikipedia says citrus in the the top, floral in the middle, and mossy-animalic base derived from oak moss and musk. Also, that patchouli is thought by some to be an indespensible element. Its maker says Xpec is floral in the top, spicey in the middle (whatever that is intended to mean exactly--for instance, "spicy" as in smelling of spices? or "spicy" as in sort of nose tingly, assertive), and woody-mossy in the base. Other notes by the maker say pepper, cedarwood, rose, citrus, and ginger. So, a lot going on.
Very assertive, especially in front. Great tenacity and nice evolution as those citrus/floral notes (citrus is clearly there to me, regardless of what Xpec seems to say) dissipate and the rather complex base takes center stage. Although having distinctly floral elements, very masculine. One on-line wag described it as "Aramis without the leather," witrh harsh, pungent floral notes, and dirty. I cannot do better than that to describe it! I would say, yes, very dirty.
I really like it. Is often my go to office scent, when I am not drawn to anything else in particular.
Shirley Brody is said to be the perfumer/desginer, and that she is founder of the Xpec house. Also says that she "
worked with Czech and Speake on their fragrances
worked with Czech and Speake on their fragrances
I can sure see/smell that And no wonder I really like Xpec. She seems to be credited as the designer of C&S F&M, but that is one of the C&S scents Xpec reminds me least of!
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Accords: Woody, Balmy, Fresh Spicy, Earthy, Mossy
Notes: Virginia Cedar, Fern, Rhododendron, Boletus Edulis, Beeswax, Myrhh, Oak Moss, Canadian Balsam
No pink carnations here! Olympic Rainforest opens sweet like peppermint candy and I don't know where that comes, but within a few minutes the rich green forest smells come forward including wild fern, oak moss and cedar. This brings back memories of my younger years spent exploring the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. After the rather odd opening, this frag reminds me a lot of Slumberland Norne, only not as rich and powerful. I also get decent project and Olympic Rainforest lasts all day on my skin.
Wild Fern Week
Geo. F. Trumper Wild Fern (1877) - Monday
Penhaligon's English Fern (1890) - Tuesday
Olympic Orchids Olympic Rainforest (2010) - Wednesday
Slumberhouse Norne (2012) - Thursday
Nina Ricci Signoricci (vintage 1965) - Friday
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Phenomenal longevity. Still going strong after 12+ hours.
Sigilli Hesperia
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