- Thread starter
- #21
Thanks for the advice. I allreay have some double sided tape ready.
Will keep you posted when I start making them.
Will keep you posted when I start making them.
Kirinite scales?
- Thread starter Snikkeren
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #22
Today I started on the scales for the first GD I modified.
Here's the rough shape of it:
And after a bit of sanding:
What do you guys think? Are they okay? Or are they too big?
I'm really just making it up as I go along.
Do I drill the pin holes now, or do I wait until I'm totally finished sanding?
Do the holes need to be exactly 1/16", or can they be a bit bigger? I've got a 1mm, wich is too small, and the next one is 2mm. 1/16 is 1,5875 mm.
Here's the rough shape of it:
And after a bit of sanding:
What do you guys think? Are they okay? Or are they too big?
I'm really just making it up as I go along.
Do I drill the pin holes now, or do I wait until I'm totally finished sanding?
Do the holes need to be exactly 1/16", or can they be a bit bigger? I've got a 1mm, wich is too small, and the next one is 2mm. 1/16 is 1,5875 mm.
U just don't want you joints to wiggle that much... That being said I've had bigger holes and it turned out fine
- Thread starter
- #24
I think I'll just order some 1/16 drill bits on ebay, since I can't get a hold of them here in Norway. The closest I can get here is 1,5 mm, or 2 mm.
I did some more sanding. I think it looks okay so far. I've finished with the 600 grit. Next will be 1200 grit.
I did some more sanding. I think it looks okay so far. I've finished with the 600 grit. Next will be 1200 grit.
It looks quite nice so far, however, if not too late, id remove a little from the bottom of the scales, and as well near the pivot (which will make it easier to handle and to strop).
Even without touching anything it looks pretty cool so far
Even without touching anything it looks pretty cool so far
- Thread starter
- #26
I believe a little update is in place.
The washers and rod that Chaloney sendt me arrived yesterday. Thank you very much.
I did some more sanding until I was pretty pleased with how the scales looks.
Today I started pinning the new scales.
I've still got quite a bit of banging to do in the pivot pin, but I think I'll call it quits for today. I'll finish it tomorrow, and shape the wedge to the scales.
Here's a close up pic of the pin at the wedge:
The washers and rod that Chaloney sendt me arrived yesterday. Thank you very much.
I did some more sanding until I was pretty pleased with how the scales looks.
Today I started pinning the new scales.
I've still got quite a bit of banging to do in the pivot pin, but I think I'll call it quits for today. I'll finish it tomorrow, and shape the wedge to the scales.
Here's a close up pic of the pin at the wedge:
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
very unique. I think I like it.
Looks good so far.
- Thread starter
- #29
So, do you guys want to see the finished scales?
- Thread starter
- #30
And some close up of the pinning:
Now I just have to hone it up again, and then get a test shave.
So, what do you think? And be honest.
Now I just have to hone it up again, and then get a test shave.
So, what do you think? And be honest.
1. A very nice first effort. Kirinite looks pretty cool!
2. The scales could be narrower. It's a bit clunky as it is.
3. Scales are a bit thick and squared for my taste. I like to round out all the edges and make the scales thinner.
However, if you don't have a belt sander, forget about it - it would be a crazy tedious job doing that by hand!
Nice job, regardless!
2. The scales could be narrower. It's a bit clunky as it is.
3. Scales are a bit thick and squared for my taste. I like to round out all the edges and make the scales thinner.
However, if you don't have a belt sander, forget about it - it would be a crazy tedious job doing that by hand!
Nice job, regardless!
- Thread starter
- #32
Thanks for the input.
I wanted to make them a but "rough" looking, hence the size and that I didn't round them off more.
I could have made them a bit thinner, but as you mentioned, I don't have a belt sander.
Next ones I make will be a bit more "traditional".
I wanted to make them a but "rough" looking, hence the size and that I didn't round them off more.
I could have made them a bit thinner, but as you mentioned, I don't have a belt sander.
Next ones I make will be a bit more "traditional".
1. I like the Kirinite and the color you picked. It goes very well with the razor.
2. I also think it could be narrower and thinner, especially around the pivot.
3. I like contrasting wedges. I probably would have used a solid black, or solid white wedge. What YOU like is most important here.
4. Overall, pretty darn nice.
2. I also think it could be narrower and thinner, especially around the pivot.
3. I like contrasting wedges. I probably would have used a solid black, or solid white wedge. What YOU like is most important here.
4. Overall, pretty darn nice.
If you taper the thickness towards the ends of the scales it can give most of the look of thinner scales without as much hand sanding.
I made these scales a while back.
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks for the input guys. I might have to get a belt sander. But what should I look for there? Does the speed have anything to say?
@oscar11: Looks great.
@oscar11: Looks great.
Thanks for the input guys. I might have to get a belt sander. But what should I look for there? Does the speed have anything to say?
@oscar11: Looks great.
I got a used table top belt sander off craigslist for like $50. Speed doesn't matter. Just make sure the belts are easily available and easily changeable. Horizontal, not vertical sanders are best.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
A variable speed is good and maybe a must for serious work. For just little one-off projects where you can really take your time if you want, just go cheap. Make sure you can access the contact wheel or front roller or whatever. I use a variable speed Harbor Freight knockoff of the B&D "Dragster" sander. It is meant to be used like a floor sander but I turn it upside down and use it for razors and scales. Very cludgy setup but it was cheap and it works, sort of. The very small front roller gives me a nice tight radius available for digging into a hollow grind. The important thing is the belts. Home Depot mostly only has belts to like 120 grit. Try www.supergrit.com for sheet, belt, and disk abrasives. I got 800 grit belts for the 3x21 from them. Their prices are pretty good and they got a great selection.
You want a nice slow speed for any sort of plastics. High speeds soften the plastic too much and can even melt it. The belt loads up quickly and can't be cleaned effectively. Keep the speed low for best results. For steel, ymmv. I go fast on thick steel and when I think I know what I'm doing, and slow otherwise and for finishing.
A table type sander is much safer and easier to use. I live on a very crowded 27' sailboat so there is no room for a table sander. If I was in a house I would definitely have a 4" wide horizontal sander and a 1" x 72" vertical. Of course I would also have a drill press, lathe, milling machine, band saw, etc but that's beside the point. But I do think you need to be able to change the speed whether it is electrically changing the motor speed or changing pulleys. You can't treat plastic like steel and you can't treat thin steel like thick. Well, you can, but you shouldn't.
You want a nice slow speed for any sort of plastics. High speeds soften the plastic too much and can even melt it. The belt loads up quickly and can't be cleaned effectively. Keep the speed low for best results. For steel, ymmv. I go fast on thick steel and when I think I know what I'm doing, and slow otherwise and for finishing.
A table type sander is much safer and easier to use. I live on a very crowded 27' sailboat so there is no room for a table sander. If I was in a house I would definitely have a 4" wide horizontal sander and a 1" x 72" vertical. Of course I would also have a drill press, lathe, milling machine, band saw, etc but that's beside the point. But I do think you need to be able to change the speed whether it is electrically changing the motor speed or changing pulleys. You can't treat plastic like steel and you can't treat thin steel like thick. Well, you can, but you shouldn't.
Very nice job for your first set of scales (mine were nowhere as nice)! You just started on a very slippery slope though, now you will buy razors just to save them knowing you can easily make some scales for them :-D
Depending on how many scales you plan on doing, you don't necessarily need a belt sander (but if you have room and $, I believe its much nicer!). I usually thin my scales using only sanding paper (don't have room for a belt sander in my apt). Then again its the most annoying step about making scales, it can be time consuming. What I do is I put down a sheet of sanding paper on the table (you can tape the corners so it doesn't move). Then I take a piece of duck tape and make a little sticky roll with it. I stick it to the back of the scales, and use this to be able to hold on the scales and rub them all over the sanding paper. Last time I used 50-80 grit paper for bone and although it was lengthy, it did work well.
Also, when doing the wedge, I use a similar technique. I take some duck tape, put it in a small roll, and use it as a sort of double-sided tape to stick the wedge on the table (on the edge). I then use the dremel to thin and shape the wedge in the V form. The tape allows it to stay in place and it feels safer than holding it with my barehands against a free-holding dremel. I then take it to the sandpaper on the table and make sure it is well flat.
To shape the scales, you can also use a wood rasp (on horn and bone for sure, have yet to try on acrylic to see if it doesn't clog). It works well to smooth the rough cut done after the coping saw.
Most important thing of all is not to rush the process. It sounds obvious but more often than not, you can get eager to see the final result and think "bah, it will look good enough". Better leave it on the side for a few days and come back to it refreshed.
Depending on how many scales you plan on doing, you don't necessarily need a belt sander (but if you have room and $, I believe its much nicer!). I usually thin my scales using only sanding paper (don't have room for a belt sander in my apt). Then again its the most annoying step about making scales, it can be time consuming. What I do is I put down a sheet of sanding paper on the table (you can tape the corners so it doesn't move). Then I take a piece of duck tape and make a little sticky roll with it. I stick it to the back of the scales, and use this to be able to hold on the scales and rub them all over the sanding paper. Last time I used 50-80 grit paper for bone and although it was lengthy, it did work well.
Also, when doing the wedge, I use a similar technique. I take some duck tape, put it in a small roll, and use it as a sort of double-sided tape to stick the wedge on the table (on the edge). I then use the dremel to thin and shape the wedge in the V form. The tape allows it to stay in place and it feels safer than holding it with my barehands against a free-holding dremel. I then take it to the sandpaper on the table and make sure it is well flat.
To shape the scales, you can also use a wood rasp (on horn and bone for sure, have yet to try on acrylic to see if it doesn't clog). It works well to smooth the rough cut done after the coping saw.
Most important thing of all is not to rush the process. It sounds obvious but more often than not, you can get eager to see the final result and think "bah, it will look good enough". Better leave it on the side for a few days and come back to it refreshed.
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