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J.A Henckels 401 restore Enamel paint?

Hey Guys,

What would be the best way of going about this restore on the tang? I'm restoring this Henckels 401 and it had the remnants of red paint in the lettering on the tang so I'd like to make it good again..

I've done what you can see in the photo, my questions are is enamel paint the best sort of paint to use?

Could I of gone about it in a different way to make it less of a clean up job when dry?

How can I clean this up the most efficiently?

I've learnt one thing and that's I should of done this before I re scaled it, but I was eager and had half a day to spare.

Thanks in advance.

If your interested this colour is quite a good match and it's a Humbrol satin 174 enamel paint. 👍
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I would try 100% acetone nail polish remover. You can buy a small bottle at your local drugstore for a few bucks. Should remove enamel paint according to the Internet and I personally know that acetone does not damage blades, including blades with plating.
 
Update,

So I let it dry for 24 hours and it was still not hard like my first attempt, I got the Stanley blade and sliced it of flat with the metal and left it for 48 hours by this time it was nice and hard. I made these little ice lolly stick sander and went backwards thought the grits to see what was the minimum grit to take the paint off..

Came out pretty good and I'm happy with the results. I was thinking of clear coating it but the original wasn't so see how it holds up in use..



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I would try 100% acetone nail polish remover. You can buy a small bottle at your local drugstore for a few bucks. Should remove enamel paint according to the Internet and I personally know that acetone does not damage blades, including blades with plating.
Thanks for your input I could try that next time maybe after I've blades it of and let dry hard.. 👍
 
I must have been going to fast and misunderstood that you had applied the paint to fill the stamp. Looks great. For this application, the blade does seem like the better choice :).
 
Yup, that is how I do it, I restore a lot of antique tools, but I apply the paint to fill the stamp, then scrape/cut off most of the excess while still wet. It will smear a bit but after it is dry, then clean up with a single edge razor blade.

Sanding sticks work, so does a piece of 1k and 2k wrapped around a synthetic wine cork. From 1-2k you can easily go to high gloss with metal polish. Synthetic corks are a bit harder, smoother and have a crisp edge if you need it, like getting into that step where the blade belly meets the stabilizer.

Just restored a 1930’s Spencer microscope and filled the stamps in white, like original. I use Testor’s enamel.

Nice work, like the scales and pinning, heel correction will make honing much easier.
 
Yup, that is how I do it, I restore a lot of antique tools, but I apply the paint to fill the stamp, then scrape/cut off most of the excess while still wet. It will smear a bit but after it is dry, then clean up with a single edge razor blade.

Sanding sticks work, so does a piece of 1k and 2k wrapped around a synthetic wine cork. From 1-2k you can easily go to high gloss with metal polish. Synthetic corks are a bit harder, smoother and have a crisp edge if you need it, like getting into that step where the blade belly meets the stabilizer.

Just restored a 1930’s Spencer microscope and filled the stamps in white, like original. I use Testor’s enamel.

Nice work, like the scales and pinning, heel correction will make honing much easier.
That's funny you said about the wine cork I've been thinking of getting one, just I don't drink wine,lol.. have to get my Dad to save me some..

The heel was just about ok but I will be chasing it in next time it needs a hone. Few more taps on the pivot are needed now it's settled a bit also. It's ready to test shave now looking forward to it, my Henckels are about my best Solingen razors just love them.

Thanks for the input much appreciated. 👍
 
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