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Heavy grinds, Chip Removal, etc. Heavy lifting hone selection.

So. Most people start on a 1000, 1500, 2000 grit synthetic as their "bevel setter".

How many people go lower for heavy work, like geometry fixing, extremely heavy grinds, large chip removal, and similar labors? If you do, what's your tool of choice?

I buy a lot of hone lots and most of the lower grit stones have gone in a box until it filled a large flat rate, which would then be eBayed for whatever it brings. A few nicer examples would get set aside for some coarse tool and knife work/experimentation... but a recent lot with a ton of boxed India hones got me playing around with them and some of my other lower grit hones, and I actually am really liking the feedback of some of them with razors; while the coarser DMT's (below 600) have never really felt great to me with razors. Then Lightfoot's talking about medium grit naturals got me picking around some of the more obscure and unidentified hones I've encountered. I'm thinking of doing some head to head comparisons with razors of my low and maybe medium grit hones that don't see them very often.

I started testing and was quite surprised by just how effective things like coarse/fine India and Crystolon combos were at putting a bevel on a razor. Now, I remember these edges looking quite ragged under magnification the last time I played with similar stones, so the practical test will be seeing how much additional work the following hones will have to do compared to beveling on a 1-2k whetstone... but it's intriguing nonetheless. It's making me curious if adding a coarser oilstone may prove an effective tool for razors that need heavy work on them, or maybe even as an extremely rapid beveling method on very rough edges like factory GD's. And seeing as these stones are practically free/worthless on eBay... if a jump from one to a rapid mid-range hone like a DMT 8k is possible; there's the potential for a very affordable "eBay special" honing setup utilizing them.

Tomorrow the plan is to trial beveling a gold dollar on a India vs a Crystolon vs a Washita vs a DMT and maybe throw a few oddity hones I've got in for kicks (Sadly no JGES Reform... already sold it, though I wish I could include it as I'm curious how it'd stack up). Traditional synthetic whetstones aren't getting in on the fun since the only one I've got kicking around at a low enough grit is a KING, which takes a great deal more time than the DMT, and won't reveal anything new; that already established. The DMT is mostly in there as a baseline measure. If time allows I'll also see how progressing off these bevels to the next step (8k) differs... at least for the hones that perform competitively. I may throw a Coti slurry and/or Botan slurry beveling in too, just as an extremely divergent baseline from the DMT... to sort of create a "range" of alternatives that people might actually use to bevel razors on if other more popular options aren't available... basically as an "If I buy a Jnat/Coti to finish on and can't afford a Beveler too... how much additional time am I wasting, trying to bevel on my finisher" test.
 
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Legion

Staff member
I use a DMT 600 for grunt work.

After that a fast coti (like my big LPB) and slurry can get the job done most of the time.
 
This thread kind of reminded me of why I haven't started buying hones by the lot. Although it would be a cool challenge to see if certain obscure hones could be brought into regular rotation like an old carborundum or something similar.
 
On rare occasions I use a DMT 350 for large chip removal by lifting the spine off the DMT and honing till the chip/chips are almost gone. Then switch to a Nani 1K, tape the spine and set the bevel. If by geometry fixing you mean grinding the spines, I do not do that but just use various different honing strokes to work around that. OTH for things like reshaping the heel the DMT 350 works well for that to get rid of heel hooks.

Bob
 
I would like to get a 400 grit synth of some sort soon. They tend to be more affordable than higher grit hones for obvious reasons. I'd like to see what they could offer as well.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
Shapton Pro 320 followed by either a Shapton HR Glass 500 or a Chosera 600.

Cheers, Steve
 
Ive gone as low as 140 grit diamond plate i got from cktg. The condition dictates to me what i will use. Extreme blades require extreme measures.
 
Has anyone used W/D sandpaper for sub-1k work in a pinch?
I have and I dont like it. Lot of grit flying around, it comes off pretty easily from the paper. BUT lots of guys have done it and it works for them. If you do, make sure you rinse the blade very well or you can easily contaminate the next stone you use after the sandpaper.
 
I've read many people caution against diamond plates. They've suggested that the scratch pattern is a bit deeper than an equal grit hone and there fore harder to hone out later. Any thoughts?
 

kelbro

Alfred Spatchcock
I occasionally use a well-worn diamond plate. It doesn't scratch too deep. When I don't, I often kick myself for spending too long on the rocks! It's not always about speed though, is it?
 
I've read many people caution against diamond plates. They've suggested that the scratch pattern is a bit deeper than an equal grit hone and there fore harder to hone out later. Any thoughts?
It can be deeper but there are things you can do to avoid chipping. Dont complete the bevel, stop before the scratches get to the edge and finish up with your 1k, this can be a substantial savings in time., You an also finish the bevel and then dull it on glass and reset again on your 1k stone. The duling compresses the bevel edge to fresh steel. And you can finish the bevel on your 1k. Pressure on a rough diamond plate is totally unnecessary.
 
I've read many people caution against diamond plates. They've suggested that the scratch pattern is a bit deeper than an equal grit hone and there fore harder to hone out later. Any thoughts?

I've gone straight from a D8F (25u/"600 grit") to a Nakayama kiita with tomo slurry before and it worked very well. There are pictures in the last couple of pages of the "got the scope out again" thread at each stage of the progression if you like staring at bevels, and besides looking good under a scope the resulting edges were excellent shavers. I tend to use relatively light pressure and try to let the diamonds do the work - it still goes pretty quickly.

Generally speaking the edge looks very uniform (close to bullet straight) and the scratch pattern is pronounced but not crazy after the DMT, though depth perception is limited through a monocular scope with an imperfect lighting setup. There is one progression in particular where you can see the corroded edge coming off in a sort of chunky fashion after going at it for a while with the DMT, before straightening out once I'm into fresh steel. Nb. with slower jnats I've thrown an LV coti between the DMT and the jnat finisher, which also works very well.
 
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