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What stones do I really need?

I never wrote that, implied that or thought that. I only want to try it my way and see for myself whether it works or not, but for some reason, several of you find that offensive.

How many ways can I tell you you're totally wrong without telling you you're totally wrong?


It's all about presentation, not the words used

You're right, you didn't say or imply that, so it's rather curious that's how you come across, if you didn't you wouldn't be getting the responses you're getting.

I guess what you can't see is that ppl with experience have 'been there, done that' per se.

Like I said, prove it first, keep it to yourself and or learn to take constructive criticism better,

then come in with your chest puffed out ready to defend what you've proved to be a successfully different way of honing that opens up an entirely new method nobody has ever thought of doing since the early 30's
 
If I were starting all over again with nothing but a known-good shaving razor what would I do, where would I start if I really wasn’t sure how to hone?

We can all agree that we need a strop. Would I go with leather or would I see what I could do with some folded up newspaper?

The good thing about newspaper is that not only can you strop on it as-is but you could also apply a little bit of sharpening agent to it as well so it’s 2-for-1 and free…

Now what about stones?

As soon as we start talking about stones we are simultaneously talking about the need for flattening. While you might be able to get away with silicon carbide sandpaper that’s going to get old in a hurry which means a good quality diamond plate is ideal. This will comes at a cost but hands-down the cost is worth it!

What about an 8000 grit stone and a quality lappiing plate?

An 8000 grit stone, some newspaper, and perhaps a bit of sharpening paste might create an opportunity to at least get some of the basic mechanics of honing under your belt?

Now this won’t cover anything that could ever be wrong with any given razor but I think this could be a reasonable starting point, What do you think?

All this being said I can’t reiterate enough this assumes that you’re actually starting out with a razor that already shaves.
 
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All this being said I can’t reiterate enough this assumes that you’re actually starting out with a razor that already shaves.
Strange as it may sound, I've got considerably less scruff on my face than I did about a month ago when I first got this RSO and it's the only thing I've used for shaving. That's why I think that I might be able to get a temporary edge on it that will last, I hope, for more than one shave; maybe two or three. Not a great edge, but at least better than it is now.
 
As soon as we start talking about stones we are simultaneously talking about the need for flattening. While you might be able to get away with silicon carbide sandpaper that’s going to get old in a hurry which means a good quality diamond plate is ideal. This will comes at a cost but hands-down the cost is worth it!
A member of this forum pointed me to a kit containing three stones, a holder, a diamond flattening plate and a marking pencil from a reputable manufacturer and supply company. Does that meet with your approval?
 
A member of this forum pointed me to a kit containing three stones, a holder, a diamond flattening plate and a marking pencil from a reputable manufacturer and supply company. Does that meet with your approval?
As long as the stones are suitable for razors and within your budget I don’t see why not.

I’m not aware of the kind of stones but I understand getting too specific about brand and/or source can be touchy on this forum.
 
I'm about to order a set of stones that costs a total of about $260 but looks like it's everything I'm going to need for right now. Once I've learned the basics, I'll be back asking where I can get a reasonably priced blade that I can take care of on my own.
Great step.

If I understand correctly, you are currently using that “most hated metal object” to shave with…
Are you doing full face shaves?
Are you attempting more than a single pass?
What soap are you using?
Do you have any cuts or irritation from this activity?

When your new stones show up, and you make use of them as you see fit, please give us an update with how your shave changes.
I do need to ask if you currently have a method that you use to evaluate the edge before using it to shave?…As in, now vs after a sharpening process?

Can I ask what your budget is for your reasonably priced blade as mentioned above?
 
If I understand correctly, you are currently using that “most hated metal object” to shave with…
Are you doing full face shaves?
Are you attempting more than a single pass?
What soap are you using?
Do you have any cuts or irritation from this activity?
I'm using that RSO and only that for daily shaving. I do full face shaves with three passes, WTG, XTG (Except for my neck as I've not yet figured out to hold the razor for that.) and ATG. I'm using Scalpmaster shaving soap. And no, I don't have cuts or irritation from it.

I will certainly post my progress, or lack thereof. What my budget for a better blade is a good question that I can't currently answer. I need certain dental work that the VA doesn't cover, and until I know how much that's going to be, I can't tell how much I can afford for that. Among other things, I'm going to have to do some research on how much blades cost and how expensive it is to have a proper edge put on one.
 
I'm using that RSO and only that for daily shaving. I do full face shaves with three passes, WTG, XTG (Except for my neck as I've not yet figured out to hold the razor for that.) and ATG. I'm using Scalpmaster shaving soap. And no, I don't have cuts or irritation from it.

I will certainly post my progress, or lack thereof. What my budget for a better blade is a good question that I can't currently answer. I need certain dental work that the VA doesn't cover, and until I know how much that's going to be, I can't tell how much I can afford for that. Among other things, I'm going to have to do some research on how much blades cost and how expensive it is to have a proper edge put on one.
Good luck my friend.
Here is the low cost shave I spoke of earlier.
I have $$thousands$$ in shave hobby stuff that I manage to be able to learn to use and match the performance I can get here.

IMG_2967.jpeg
 
A member of this forum pointed me to a kit containing three stones, a holder, a diamond flattening plate and a marking pencil from a reputable manufacturer and supply company. Does that meet with your approval?
I don't like the kit too much. Know that the stones are not 8x3 and are s aller stones. The lapping plate is a bit expensive, and I think the progression is more for knives.

Look at the shapton Rockstar and I suggest the 10k and the 6k. Can get an atoma lapping stone 600 (usually the most recommended lapping plate) or use diamond plate. That is my opinion though
 
I don't like the kit too much. Know that the stones are not 8x3 and are s aller stones. The lapping plate is a bit expensive, and I think the progression is more for knives.

Look at the shapton Rockstar and I suggest the 10k and the 6k. Can get an atoma lapping stone 600 (usually the most recommended lapping plate) or use diamond plate. That is my opinion though
After looking at that set in the link on the 1st page of this thread I agree that this is a knife-specific set and not for razors but…

This vendor offers their own ‘house brand’ of combo stones that I would grab without pause if I were working within the same budget and trying to get everything in one delivery fee.

The 6,000/10,000 combo, an Atoma 600# flattening plate, and perhaps a finishing paste are all available in a single order from them.

A 20 minute soak is suggested for those stones but I know two razor guys that hone a lot that were impressed with them.

Just another option to consider if the OP is trying to get everything in a single purchase and one delivery fee.
 
In the past I've had great results with pasted balsa wood. Slightly different than the typical setup though.

Due to my budget at the time I opted for a set of 12" x 4" x 1/8" balsa wood. You can get a pack of 10 sheets for $13 dollars, then add some cheap diamond paste (6k to 30k, or other grits also) for around the same price.

I used the 50k, 100k, 200k at the time. Laid one end of the sheet on the table and let it flex somewhat like a strop.
I was very pleased with the results. I stopped using them because they gave me a sharper edge than I wanted, and also wanted to pursue more stones.
 
Naniwa or Shapton 1 through 12. That’s all, if you want more once you master that the worlds your oyster.
The Shapton store on Amazon has the Kuromaku stones in 1k, 5k, 8k, and 12k for $250. Is this the progression you were referring to?
 
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That’ll do
I am brand new to all of this and will be working with a honed Ralf Aust from Maggard's. Could I get by with just the 8k and 12k for now? I don't plan to restore any razors, and if the edge gets too dull, I will just send it off to get honed. Thanks!
 
I am brand new to all of this and will be working with a honed Ralf Aust from Maggard's. Could I get by with just the 8k and 12k for now? I don't plan to restore any razors, and if the edge gets too dull, I will just send it off to get honed. Thanks!
8k and 12k will keep you going forever as long as you don’t ding the edge off something.

An 8k is a fantastic tool for learning to hone. It’s aggressive enough to lightly kill an edge and bring it back, but not aggressive enough to ruin a blade.
 
8k and 12k will keep you going forever as long as you don’t ding the edge off something.

An 8k is a fantastic tool for learning to hone. It’s aggressive enough to lightly kill an edge and bring it back, but not aggressive enough to ruin a blade.
I ended up getting Naniwa S1 Super Stone in 8k and 12k. Between the stones and the Jim Miller strop, I should be good for a while.
 
I ended up getting Naniwa S1 Super Stone in 8k and 12k. Between the stones and the Jim Miller strop, I should be good for a while.
I’d recommend gluing them to a tile or piece of glass to keep them from warping. I had returned my first Naniwa 12k because of a huge warp, and the replacement stone did the same. Gluing it to a flat surface fixed the problem.
 
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