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Gold Dollar Competition, 2013

I just spent enough on materials and tools I could have just paid somebody good to make me some scale material but that wouldn't have been any fun, would it?
I am starting out with a GD #200 (wanted a #208 but Star Shaving was out of stock, picked this one instead)...definitely a difference between this model and the #66.
It comes with a fancy plastic case (pure class) and is a much thinner blade, 5mm across the spine compared to 6mm on the #66. It has a double shoulder stabilizer that is ground a lot nicer and even looks like it might not need any work to hone.
Some sorry looking pics to show the comparison:
$IMG_7528.jpg$IMG_7532.jpg$IMG_7533.jpg$IMG_7535.jpg

I've got some construction paper micarta working, curious as to how that's going to turn out.
 
The very last thing I do is hone the blade then I shave with it. If it will not clear everything on the first swipe, I go back and re-hone.
 
You can probably also remove a bend in the tang with the vise itself, if you use three round or triangular pieces to apply reverse pressure in the vice jaws.

And Khay...you just ruined my week. Drop me a message if you ever plan to do another...it's a really nice job.
 
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You can probably also remove a bend in the tang with the vise itself, if you use three round or triangular pieces to apply reverse pressure in the vice jaws.

And Khay...you just ruined my week. Drop me a message if you ever plan to do another...it's a really nice job.

Thats how I used to do it, but it didn't give enough feedback. Just tighten up the vice...it was too easy to over tighten and snap a blade. Now I just clamp the blade in the vice and use a piece of extruded aluminum that was laying around the shop that had a slot I it that fit a GD tang juuuuust right. The Whammy Bar is about two feet long which allows some nice leverage for straightening out those crappy, good fer nuthin Gold Dollars.
 
Honed and THEN put the scales on?!:001_huh:

You live on the edge, my friend.

Yep, it's obviously not the "best practice", but creating the initial bevel on the blade after all that grinding and polishing takes a little while and I actually prefer to do it without the scales on. The fit was already tested before with a micro fastener so by the time of the pinning there shouldn't be any surprises.

Obviously I first pin the wedge on the scales and then pin the blade last. Never had a problem (famous last words) but I usually am extra careful when pinning the blade last like this. Pinning is done by light tapping - it's actually much less dangerous to pin a sharp blade that it is to buff it while dull, especially on loose cloth wheels, in my opinion.

You can minimize the risk by laying a piece of adhesive tape on each side of the blade, in a way that part of it covers the edge (don't fold it over) - but yes, I do agree that the safest way is to always work with the dull blade and do the sharpening/honing only in the end.
 
Kay, it looks like the wedge pin is larger, is that correct? Beautiful job!

Thanks Mike - that is correct - I used 2 different sizes stacked washers for the wedge pin and only a smaller washer on the razor pin - I did it because I felt that aesthetically it was more pleasing (wedge side, wider, bigger pin <-> the pivot pin, smaller).
 
Yep, it's obviously not the "best practice", but creating the initial bevel on the blade after all that grinding and polishing takes a little while and I actually prefer to do it without the scales on. The fit was already tested before with a micro fastener so by the time of the pinning there shouldn't be any surprises.

Obviously I first pin the wedge on the scales and then pin the blade last. Never had a problem (famous last words) but I usually am extra careful when pinning the blade last like this. Pinning is done by light tapping - it's actually much less dangerous to pin a sharp blade that it is to buff it while dull, especially on loose cloth wheels, in my opinion.

You can minimize the risk by laying a piece of adhesive tape on each side of the blade, in a way that part of it covers the edge (don't fold it over) - but yes, I do agree that the safest way is to always work with the dull blade and do the sharpening/honing only in the end.

Lots of ways to skin a cat, no wrong ways, just different.

Carry on...
 
I don't know if this is Bear's "secret" tang straightening technique, but it does work., and I posted it way back in 2009 (before Gold Dollars, and I was working with Double Arrows...).

You need a vise, and three hardened dowels (drill bits work fine).

You locate the direction of the bend, and set up your three dowels appropriately (See pic)

Tighten vise until you think it's OK

Check to see if it's now straight.
 

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Well....first construction paper micarta attempt was a bust. Need to be more liberal with the epoxy I think, also picked up some stouter clamps.

The center seemed to be the correct density, texture, etc, edges looked like a book left out in the rain.
 
Well....first construction paper micarta attempt was a bust. Need to be more liberal with the epoxy I think, also picked up some stouter clamps.

The center seemed to be the correct density, texture, etc, edges looked like a book left out in the rain.

I found that press was the way to go in making Micarta, I have a bunch of hideous fabric I will be using for "Polyester Micarta" scales soon. Cobalt blue too. :badger:
 
I found that press was the way to go in making Micarta, I have a bunch of hideous fabric I will be using for "Polyester Micarta" scales soon. Cobalt blue too. :badger:
Awesome! Leisure suit scales! That's pretty swanky.

Sorry to be thick...what does "I found that press was the way to go" mean?
 
Well, guys. After days of sanding and finally getting to a place where I feel this is presentable as a blade, I find I'm out of time to make scales for it.
I'm packing up my house and moving this weekend. I might get a little bit of time tomorrow, but failing that, I will not be making it into the competition.

Thanks to everyone for the support, and to Firewalker for the kit to get me started. I will be posting shots of the completed project, but it most likely will not be until mid april, and I'll be posting from Korea.
 
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