- Thread starter
- #41
What firmer brushes do you use?
Finding my Semogue SOC Mistura too harsh/abrasiveness when splayed. Recommendations for a different brush?
- Thread starter Hentrox
- Start date
My favorites are/were a Semogue 1250 and an Omega 80266.
They have been eclipsed by my new Semogue 24mm mistura knot that is in an APSHAVECO custom handle. It is fantastic to me!
Jay
They have been eclipsed by my new Semogue 24mm mistura knot that is in an APSHAVECO custom handle. It is fantastic to me!
Jay
Zenith 505 or 506 if I recall the numbers correctly. But I wouldn’t skip on a omega, either the Proraso, a 49 or any other that fits your preferences.
- Thread starter
- #44
Do you splay your brush when you lather your face (assuming you face lather)?
I find my mistura to require a great deal of force to splay.
Someone earlier, here, suggested that I don't fully splay the brush, but just lightly press the tips and swirl/go back and forwards on my face to build the lather.
However, I tried this, and I found that when I put any pressure at all on the brush, there was so much resistance from the brush/bristles that it made it very difficult to swirl/brush back and forwards like this - kind of like working against a really strong spring.
I do facelather, I dont splay/smush my brush into my face.
How I lather:
Soak brush for 5 minutes minimum...often much longer.
Shake most of the water out, then mist (I use an old aluminum spray bottle that held eyeglass cleaning solution) the soap with water and start to swirl/load spritzing as needed until it seems like enough.
Spray face and paint soap all over. Then spritz with water and work the brush back and forth/in circles using medium/low pressure. I would say enough pressure to bend the last 1/4 to 1/2 inch of the bristles over...no more then that.
Spritz, brush, spritz, brush. Repeat until texture is where I want it. I like a fairly runny lather but like to work up to it gradually. I find this to really soften the hair. I do the same with all my brushes, boar, mistura, synthetic, have never used a badger.
It's not fastest way to build a lather but I shave at the end of my day and enjoy the process and taking my time. Usually sipping a Whisky and or a beer.
Hope that helps.
Jay
That doesn't sound like my Mistura. I think the backbone is perfect. However, for me (who hates scritch with a passion) the tips provide a little too much scratch when I swirl the brush (which I do because I like it - so there!). But I do find that slightly splaying the brush and then using back and forth motions - rather than swirling - provides relief from 90% of the scritch.
In your shoes I would make sure my brush loft was up to specs, and return it for a replacement if not. Sure, you can just use painting strokes or try and find some other kind of work-around, but I wouldn't bother. It's a very popular brush. If it won't do the job for you I'd sell it here and get a brush that will. With 20 uses I'm also in the camp that it will get softer with time.
The SOC boar is nothing like the Mistura. It starts out with fairly substantial backbone and slowly (it really is almost unbelievable how long a Semogue boar takes to fully break in) turns into tips so soft they can rival many silvertip badgers. Unfortunately for many face latherers, the backbone also gets considerably softer - although some people love that. I have three, but I usually use them in the scuttle. Love the wood handle.
I do not own a Semogue badger other than the Mistura boar mix and the Parbear Portugues 2023 - which is my favorite brush in the world, but I don't know that any are still available and I don't know that you'd appreciate the price point.
You might like the Muhle STF synthetic: easy to splay and a very nice brush, but a little lacking in backbone for me (but maybe not you?).
I think: if you have problems with Sagrada Familia and the Mistura, specifically splaying.........it all boils down to your specific technique.........do not force down the brushes.....that will eventually ruin the center fibers (all of them , irrespective of origin) they get a bald spot..... Just take it easy......do it with love and affection........ There are softer plastic fibers from PAC and plastic copies of badger by Muhle.......and I think Omega....those are thicker and resemble badger. BUT if you force splay them down the middle.....all will eventually break. Just take it easy.......
That is absolutely true. Semogue's selected silvertip for instance is easily two or three times the price of their boars.
See e.g. Limited Edition – Vintage Scent - https://vintagescent.com/product-category/brushes/limitededition/
So no arguing, but my experience with shave brushes (I have quite a few, my wall of shame or fame is here User:Wimbouman - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/User:Wimbouman) is that sometimes going the extra mile pays off. Not spending ridiculous amounts of money for the sake of some status object but for getting exactly the knot that provides what you are looking for. Research and get rewarded.
For a luxurious silvertip (obviously, given your needs not a two band or manchurian) like Semogue's (and also the Simpsons Emperor comes to mind: Emperor 2 Super Badger Shaving Brush - https://www.simpsonshavingbrushes.com/store/brushes/super-badger/super-badger-2-emperor-) it is worth to watch the BST.
Likewise, you may want to be lucky and find a really luxurious boar (the Semogue Limited Edition 2011 Finest Bristle size 2 would be nice, but this is hardly ever available). You may even find an Omega in a B&B Essential Boar, there have been made quite a few of those if I recall correctly. One of the softest I tried. See also: Who has the B&B Essential boar brush? - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/who-has-the-b-b-essential-boar-brush.631317/
Synthetics are also worth a deep dive. The fibers range from pillowy soft to prickly hard. I like my chubby Simpsons, but they are noticeably firmer than the Muhles. Their balck fibre, which is my choice for soft is now branded Nom, worth checking. Shaving Brush nom shaving - Blauw - https://www.intershave.com/en/scheerkwast-black-fibre-110297440.html . This one is our in-house favorite though: KOSMO Shaving Brush | brilliant chrome plated | Yes | Silvertip Fibre® | KOSMO | Shaving Brush | High-grade resin | 31 K 876 - https://www.muehle-shaving.com/en/KOSMO-Shaving-Brush/31-K-876 - the two youngsters here have each one in bright yellow. Great soft brush, and notice the longer, more flexible knot shape.
So, long story short; in every category knots at every price level there might be the gem you are looking for.
I have two wooden handled boar brushes you might like: Omega 11137 and Semogue 1250. They are less firm than the Mistura but not floppy. Also, pretty inexpensive and nice looking.
That was probably me.
Are you soaking your Mistura knot for a few minutes before using it? If you soak it for maybe 3-5 minutes in warm water it will soften considerably.
I am mystified by this desire to "splay" brushes. Just a little pressure is enough. Moving the brush back and forth with just a bit of pressure agitates and builds lather faster than swirling in circles and that means less travel time for the bristles on your face (therefore, less potential for irritation).
Look at your technique. Also, let your brush break in more. Twenty uses is not really enough, I don't think. The Mistura shouldn't be springy. It should be slightly scrubby, but not harsh, when broken in and soaked.
- Thread starter
- #50
Thankyou.
Out of curiosity, is your Mistura's glue bump at the same height as mine (as shown in attached photo)?
Attachments
Mine might be a little lower, but I don't know if it's the glue bump or just the density of the knot at that point.
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