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Easy Razor Polishing Tutorial

Just need some clarification on the progression of compounds. I went to sears, as no ace hardwares were in that close proximity of my house, and bought compound bars of the black/gray compound, red compound, white, green, and the blue jewelers rouge (which I actually just added on today). So far, I had been doing the black/gray->red->white->green, but i feel that maybe the green should switch with the white. I had noticed that some people had talked of doing the white rouge last, instead of the green (which I suppose to be crox). Would the progression correctly be finishing with the white, or with the green? Then finally ending with the blue jewelers rouge? Sort of confusing because I am not 100 percent sure that these compounds match that of the original post (Dico compounds).

Will
 
Just need some clarification on the progression of compounds. I went to sears, as no ace hardwares were in that close proximity of my house, and bought compound bars of the black/gray compound, red compound, white, green, and the blue jewelers rouge (which I actually just added on today). So far, I had been doing the black/gray->red->white->green, but i feel that maybe the green should switch with the white. I had noticed that some people had talked of doing the white rouge last, instead of the green (which I suppose to be crox). Would the progression correctly be finishing with the white, or with the green? Then finally ending with the blue jewelers rouge? Sort of confusing because I am not 100 percent sure that these compounds match that of the original post (Dico compounds).

Will
If you have jewelers rouge, use it after white and only with a flannel type attachment that I recommend for the crox that dremel makes. Jewelers rouge doesn't cut. On a side note I prefer Stainless steel bar over the jewelers but that only works on buffers.

I've never heard of white before crox. Crox can put the "pow" or put a nice satin finish if you're not careful. But by all means experiment for yourself, that's part of the fun!

FWIW since I've been asked by PM a few times here is my progression on buffers:

Greaseless: Spiral Sewn Wheels
80 (Full Restore)
120(Full Restore)
180(Normal Blades for Polish)
240
400
600

Compounds:
Black/Emory: Sisal Wheels Only
White:Back to Spiral Sewn
Stainless Bar
Crox: Cotton Flannel Wheels.
 
Thanks a lot!

Im wondering if the green compound I have is closer to the stainless bar you mention(after looking it up). It is indeed not in powdered form and seems to be closer to the look of stainless bar than crox. I will have to mess with it tomorrow.
 
Do you know if those Dico compounds melt more easily than others? I tried this a year or so back but my rouges are all bricks from Caswell-Massey that barely melt when they're pushed on the buffer for like 3 minutes, and as I remember the compound had no interest in sticking to the dremel felt wheels. I think mine might be optimized for buffers.

I think I'll give it another go though, just to be sure.
 
Do you know if those Dico compounds melt more easily than others? I tried this a year or so back but my rouges are all bricks from Caswell-Massey that barely melt when they're pushed on the buffer for like 3 minutes, and as I remember the compound had no interest in sticking to the dremel felt wheels. I think mine might be optimized for buffers.

I think I'll give it another go though, just to be sure.

I've only used Dico since I have have an ACE a few blocks away but I've seen rouges vary from a soft form to a really hard one as the Dico.

Well the bricks/blocks don't really cover the wheels as the greaseless do (it may vary by manufacturer). They almost paint the wheels more the cover. On the dremel it is a little tough but after the rouges are covered somewhat on the dremel felt just grab one of the little pieces that shave off the stick and use your finger to rub it on and cover the wheel.
 
I've also started taking some of the "melted" rouge/paste/Dico stick and applying it directly to the blade..just smudge it on with your finger. You have to hurry, cause it can set up/harden rather quickly. Seems to work well. Just FYI.
 
Used this technique tonight, absolutly AMAZED with the results.

Didn't even bother wetsanding before I tried the rouges. fantastic results.
 
Thanks for the great tutorial! I am getting ready to try this on an old Wostenholm my father in law picked up at a garage sale the other day.
 
Thanks Mark. I really read this quite thoroughly a few weeks ago. I don't have a Dremel but use a little, variable speed, 4V portable hand held drill with Dremel bits. It works for me. I still find that by hand polishing for about 20 minutes at the end using cotton balls and liquid or paste wax, I can get my best results. I had read to be careful of the edge with the power tool and I do have it rotate off the blade in that area.
Thanks for putting this all together for the members.
 
I used the cone tipped felt peice and the round felt disc from my dremel kit this morning and some of the red polishing compound that came with it. Cleaned up the blade really well, all the rust and staining taken off to show nice clean silver metal. However, it also left lots of swirly micro abrasions all over the blade. What would be my next step to remove these? Just hand sanding with high grit papers? Or dremeling with a different compound?
 
I had read to be careful of the edge with the power tool and I do have it rotate off the blade in that area.

Absolutely...Don't let this happen to you!!
:blush:

$20130105_094726.jpg
 
How much pressure is needed when using the dremel and polishes? I'm new to owning a dremel and I don't want to damage the blade or burnout the motor on the dremel by stressing it more than needed.

I also inherited two straights that appear to be in good shape from my wife's grandfather. I will be shopping around for someone to restore them and make them shave ready. I have numerous razors for me to practice on but these two I do not want to mess up. If anyone has recommendations or advise please message me.

Jim
 
Just need some clarification on the progression of compounds. I went to sears, as no ace hardwares were in that close proximity of my house, and bought compound bars of the black/gray compound, red compound, white, green, and the blue jewelers rouge (which I actually just added on today). So far, I had been doing the black/gray->red->white->green, but i feel that maybe the green should switch with the white. I had noticed that some people had talked of doing the white rouge last, instead of the green (which I suppose to be crox). Would the progression correctly be finishing with the white, or with the green? Then finally ending with the blue jewelers rouge? Sort of confusing because I am not 100 percent sure that these compounds match that of the original post (Dico compounds).

Will
Does anyone here know what the composition of the white compound is, and how it compares to crox? I have used it on pasted balsa strops with good results. I suspect it is more aggressive than crox. I now have a balsa strop pasted with crox to compare it to, but I'm waiting for a razor to get to where it needs it.
 
Mark, I realize you started this thread several years ago but you said the buffer ripped the blade out of your hand. What kind of buffer was it or more so, what was the RPM?

I have a Caswell 1100 RPM and it is really gentle. My neighbor had an industrial metal buffer, 3600 RPM. That thing was a beast and it did frighten me.
 
I was hoping to find something locally, so I wouldn't have to pay shipping, or wait a full week to get it. If none of the links I posted are equivalent, then I'll just have to wait for it to ship.
 
I do have a Harbor Freight near me. Great idea. I looked on their website and they have generic colors listed as the choices : green, grey, brown, white, black and blue.

If I go strictly by color of the compound, and I am not sure that assumption can be made, I can get the grey and white. Although they don't have a red version. Would that be the brown?
 
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