I *completely* missed the part about roughing up the disc with sandpaper.
****Back to the basement****
****Back to the basement****
Easy Razor Polishing Tutorial
- Thread starter azmark
- Start date
Mark do you use a different wheel for each 'grit' or do you use the sandpaper to clean the old off and load new?
I figured I would use each compound with its own wheel and then they all turned black so I don't know the difference anyway
This Dubl Duck was gotten on eBay for 15 bucks or so. I took a gamble, and aside from the pitting that is substantial, but not near a cutting surface, I think it has cleaned up nicely. Going to send it to Nerdman soon. This was sanded with a progression of grits (1.5 hours estimate), from 320 up to 600, then spent probably 4 days total (96 hours) in a tumbler with walnut/corn cob media, and then, the best results were had by doing the methods in this thread (30 minutes). Go figure! Thanks, Marc!
Before:
Before:
- Thread starter
- #124
Mark do you use a different wheel for each 'grit' or do you use the sandpaper to clean the old off and load new?
I figured I would use each compound with its own wheel and then they all turned black so I don't know the difference anyway
One wheel for each rouge, you are correct. The sandpaper was just for the next time it's used.
- Thread starter
- #125
This Dubl Duck was gotten on eBay for 15 bucks or so. I took a gamble, and aside from the pitting that is substantial, but not near a cutting surface, I think it has cleaned up nicely. Going to send it to Nerdman soon. This was sanded with a progression of grits (1.5 hours estimate), from 320 up to 600, then spent probably 4 days total (96 hours) in a tumbler with walnut/corn cob media, and then, the best results were had by doing the methods in this thread (30 minutes). Go figure! Thanks, Marc!
Before:
Nice
it's not quite there yet, and I need to run it through again. how do you handle significant pitting?
- Thread starter
- #127
You're not going to do anything for pitting unless you use greaseless on buffers.
With the dremel you can do a lot of improvements and the best thing is to experiment with it. And remember to be safe, I had some greaseless fly from my buffers over my goggles.
With the dremel you can do a lot of improvements and the best thing is to experiment with it. And remember to be safe, I had some greaseless fly from my buffers over my goggles.
Between Bill Ellis' CD and this thread, I finally bought a Dremel, polishing compound, and got to work. Here is how this Wade & Butcher looked this morning: View attachment 140558
View attachment 140559
And this afternoon: Thank you for the tutorial, Mark! One question I have: how do you get the polishing compound out of the pits?
View attachment 140559
And this afternoon: Thank you for the tutorial, Mark! One question I have: how do you get the polishing compound out of the pits?
- Thread starter
- #129
Holy smokes
I've never had trouble removing from pitting but usually out of jimps. I use qtips and a toothbrush.
Thanks, Mark, I'll give that a try. The coolest thing about this razor is that the previous owner left it shave ready. Needs to be re-pinned, but that's down the road. Thanks again!
I used the nylon brush attachment on the Dremel to get the compound out.
Good advise, a hand powered nylon bristle brush also works.
Wipe down with a cloth & some Vienna Lime & you're home!
- Thread starter
- #133
I've used the nylon brush for jimps and it's worked out great but it left marks on the actual blade that was just polished. May depend on a case by case basis but I didn't like the nylon wheel on the actual face of the blade.
Gents, this is too funny not to share: I looked at the pits under a magnifying glass and realized the "black compound in the pits" was actually reflections. D'oh! Thanks for the suggestions, Mark and Slowhand - not sure when or if I'd figured that out.
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I've tried the Azmark polishing technique on 6 blades now with excellent results. I followed his tutorial to the letter, only difference is that I used Ryobi compounds of equivalent grits I found at Home Depot, the Ace hardware stores in my area didn't have the Dico compounds in stock. Thank you for posting this procedure, highly recommended.
I tried this method and ran into a problem (completely at no fault of the OP). After getting the compounds home and opening, they were hard as a rock. My guess is that they were in the store for WAY too long before I bought them. Does anyone know how to soften them up so I can use them? I tried to load them on the dremel exactly like the tutorial said, but it didn't load, it just sort of chipped off and flew all over the place.
- Thread starter
- #137
That's how they are.
Just imagine the rouges melting on the wheels. You're going to have to rub the wheel around as it spins to get it coated. Load it slowly at about level 2 and then while it's in there you can turn it up slightly to increase the friction and have it melt on.
What is the most quantity of metal that you can remove with paste? Could an emery compound remove some pitting, or deeper scratches with time?
- Thread starter
- #139
You're only pretty much limited by the heat created by the dremel. You're not actually removing metal so you don't have to worry about shaping the face of the blade. I usually do a few rounds of each paste. So no it will not remove pitting.
Ohh sorry, I forgot about the dremel thing. I would use it with a normal buffer. Or I should go with some finer greaseless?
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