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About Brush Cleaning and it's downfalls...

At our house on well water, I used to clean my brushes with a diluted vinegar rinse once or twice a year. Since downsizing to an apartment with city water, I don't bother. I'm not sure a vinegar/water cleaning was ever needed, but it did no harm.
 
At one time I cleaned my brushes twice a year. However, now that I have 32 brushes that I use in rotation I only clean a brush if I see soap or any other build-up by the knot.
 
Here is what I do after use: rinse well with warm water, shake them out rigorously, brush over towel, and set on the counter. They are totally dry within 12-24 hours, then they go back into the cabinet.
This is exactly what I have been doing for many years. The only difference is that I'm 100% synthetic these days so the drying time is only an hour or so, likely even less.
 
At our house on well water, I used to clean my brushes with a diluted vinegar rinse once or twice a year. Since downsizing to an apartment with city water, I don't bother. I'm not sure a vinegar/water cleaning was ever needed, but it did no harm.
I just got a new Mühle and with it came a little leaflet that said you shouldn't use vinegar. But if it never harmed your brushes then I guess it isn't much of a risk to begin with.
 
I just got a new Mühle and with it came a little leaflet that said you shouldn't use vinegar. But if it never harmed your brushes then I guess it isn't much of a risk to begin with.

I never had a problem using diluted vinegar to clean brushes when I was on well water, but since we moved in 2020 I haven't felt a need to clean my brushes, other than a good rinse with city tap water after using.
 
After reading this thread, I decided to revisit how I dry my brushes.
After the shave, I rinse them out, give them a light squeeze and then 'paint' the wet brush on a towel to get more water out of them.
I would normally dry them handle side down (knot side up) on the counter and let them dry that way.

I don't have any brush stands that work with the wider handles/tall knots of the brushes I used most often.
I haven't found any affordable brush stand that can handle larger/taller brushes, so I looked around the house to see what I could make.

First I thought of suspending a brush over the outer chamber of my DirtyBird brush scuttle using two Sharpies and two rubber bands to hold the handle of the brush. That way the brush could dry knot downward.

BrushDirtyBirdDryer.jpg
That held the brush well, but there was not enough air around the knot, so the brush did not dry completely.

I then decided to suspend the brush over a tall plastic cup so there was more air around the knot.

BrushUSODryer.jpg

That did the trick! The brush dried nicely.
The rubber bands/Sharpies allow for a variety of brush handle sizes.

I thought I would post my idea for other people who may be looking for a solution for drying larger brushes.
 
After reading this thread, I decided to revisit how I dry my brushes.
After the shave, I rinse them out, give them a light squeeze and then 'paint' the wet brush on a towel to get more water out of them.
I would normally dry them handle side down (knot side up) on the counter and let them dry that way.

I don't have any brush stands that work with the wider handles/tall knots of the brushes I used most often.
I haven't found any affordable brush stand that can handle larger/taller brushes, so I looked around the house to see what I could make.

First I thought of suspending a brush over the outer chamber of my DirtyBird brush scuttle using two Sharpies and two rubber bands to hold the handle of the brush. That way the brush could dry knot downward.

View attachment 1808559
That held the brush well, but there was not enough air around the knot, so the brush did not dry completely.

I then decided to suspend the brush over a tall plastic cup so there was more air around the knot.

View attachment 1808560

That did the trick! The brush dried nicely.
The rubber bands/Sharpies allow for a variety of brush handle sizes.

I thought I would post my idea for other people who may be looking for a solution for drying larger brushes.
I made one out of some acrylic that I found on Amazon. I needed a Forstner bit to cut the U-shaped supports. I'll see if I can dig up that post.

If you Google "Etsy Shaving Brush Stands" you'll find a ton of stuff. Quite a few of these folks 3-D print them and they can adapt to dimensions you provide them. One person named "FrugalShave" has a lot of innovative designs.

[edit]Here's the one I made - a quick prototype, followed by the "final" one.[/edit]

... Thom
 
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I made one out of some acrylic that I found on Amazon. I needed a Forstner bit to cut the U-shaped supports. I'll see if I can dig up that post.

If you Google "Etsy Shaving Brush Stands" you'll find a ton of stuff. Quite a few of these folks 3-D print them and they can adapt to dimensions you provide them. One person named "FrugalShave" has a lot of innovative designs.

[edit]Here's the one I made - a quick prototype, followed by the "final" one.[/edit]

... Thom
Thanks!

I have ordered quite a bit from FrugalShave in the past. I am waiting on an order right now for more GEM and DE blade dryers as well as a top cap for my Old Spice mug.

I never thought of asking the vendors to match my brush dimensions. Thanks for the tip!
 
I don't have any brush stands that work with the wider handles/tall knots of the brushes I used most often.
I haven't found any affordable brush stand that can handle larger/taller brushes, so I looked around the house to see what I could make.

I have a couple of the cheap acrylic brush stands and I just used a utility knife to widen the opening so my larger handled brushes fit. Easy peasy :)
 
The "Science" of breaking in a new natural bristle brush (because of odor or otherwise) ....
If always found it quite laughable ....
 
There was a thread started in the brush forum, and I made a post there.
I think it is a good idea to read what I wrote, I post here what my post was about.
I think it is important to read, and since I use a lot of wood in my brushes, this should be an educational piece for owner of my wooden, especially Bog Oak brushes.

You also can do major damage to a brush!!
Here is was just happened to one of mine. I made a customer a brush from Bog Oak, resin stabilized by a professional company. Wood was too precious for me to do it myself, which I normally do.
Customer has a certain procedure he uses for all his new brushes. I list here what he told me:

"1) I soaked it for about 5 minutes in mildly warm water approximately halfway up the bristles.
2) I rinsed the bristles under mildly warm water for about 30 seconds to wash off any dust or residue.
3) I lathered the brush and then stood the brush upright with the lather on the bristles. I left the brush alone for a couple of hours with the lather on the bristles.
4) I thoroughly rinsed the soap out of the brush by holding the brush under mildly warm running water & ran my fingers through the bristles numerous times for a few minutes."

I would never recommend this procedure, it might be fine for a resin handled brush, but it is very bad for a wooden brush handle, even resin stabilized wood.
The soap/water mix. i.e. the lather, will wick into the knot, especially if the brush stands upright. The knot will swell a bit, and in this case the knot was a D01 three band knot, an extremely densely stuffed knot of very thin three band hair, which will swell quite a bit. So, the swell, only if a little, will crack the wooden handle!! This was a Keyhole style, where the top is pretty thin.
Also, do not forget, even while the wood is resin stabilized, it still has its grain directions, and these wooden brushes, unless they are made from burl wood, have the long grain facing up/down. So, the logically cracking appears along the grain.....

In all the years I have used wood, stabilized or not, this has never happened to me before. I have made a lot of Bog Oak brushes, but never had a customer reporting a similar issue.
The other fact is that with this procedure, you will introduce soap very deep into the knot itself. Soap does damage to hairs, especially the very thin three band hairs of a D01 knot. I also like to mention that the same customer had two prior knot failure, shedding, with also D01 three band knots. Whenever I cut these off, I saw the abundance of soap residues inside these knots.

To sum this up, I know now why the two earlier knots started to shed pretty fast after receipt, and I also know now why the wood cracked so fast, brush was not even used once for shaving.

So, please do not any of these obscure "cleaning" procedures for any shaving brush, it is not needed!!! The hair in the badgers I use is cleaned, and sterilized before it is made into a knot. So, do what I do with any new brush I get: wet it, lather up with some cream in your hand, rinse out very well with warm water and the brush is ready for use.
I also do not see the need to regularly clean a brush: you clean it every time you use it with soap, i.e. making lather, and after use you rinse all the lather (soap, cream) out!! Let run the water into the knot from the top and "milk" the knot, meaning squeezing frequently, like one would milk a cow.

View attachment 1779965

Have you ever worked with Black Locust?

In upstate New York, black locust is the preferred species for fence posts,
and that is tough duty.
 
After reading this thread, I decided to revisit how I dry my brushes.
After the shave, I rinse them out, give them a light squeeze and then 'paint' the wet brush on a towel to get more water out of them.
I would normally dry them handle side down (knot side up) on the counter and let them dry that way.

I don't have any brush stands that work with the wider handles/tall knots of the brushes I used most often.
I haven't found any affordable brush stand that can handle larger/taller brushes, so I looked around the house to see what I could make.

First I thought of suspending a brush over the outer chamber of my DirtyBird brush scuttle using two Sharpies and two rubber bands to hold the handle of the brush. That way the brush could dry knot downward.

View attachment 1808559
That held the brush well, but there was not enough air around the knot, so the brush did not dry completely.

I then decided to suspend the brush over a tall plastic cup so there was more air around the knot.

View attachment 1808560

That did the trick! The brush dried nicely.
The rubber bands/Sharpies allow for a variety of brush handle sizes.

I thought I would post my idea for other people who may be looking for a solution for drying larger brushes.

Maggards sells a large stand that fits my Simpson T3. Might be worth a look.

 

Rudy Vey

Shaving baby skin and turkey necks
Have you ever worked with Black Locust?

In upstate New York, black locust is the preferred species for fence posts,
and that is tough duty.
No, I have not. Of local (US) woods, mainly Maple spalted or burl, Boxelder Burl, Black Ash burl, spalted Tamarind, some Mesquite, Desert Ironwood - I prefer to use these all resin stabilized, except the DIwood, it is too dense to stabilize it.
I have made pens from Osage orange, and guess it would work for brushes, too. It is supposedly also quite resistant as it is used also a lot for fence posts.
 
That's not at all true. Water evaporates in whatever direction is energetically favorable for those conditions. Don't claim "science" when that is not true.
You are correct in that water evaporates in random directions. The trigger for evaporation is differential in water content of surface and the air plus sufficient energy to excite the water molecules to move, generally in the form of heat. If there is sufficient for the molecules to move there is probably sufficient heat for the air molecules (who also move randomly like the water molecules, brownian motion) but preferentially higher, carrying the water with them. Hopefully this is more to your liking. I'll try and find a paper that discusses it (the one I'm thinking of discuss why dew evaporates up some places and effectively "wicks" to nearby bodies of water elsewhere.
 
That's not at all true. Water evaporates in whatever direction is energetically favorable for those conditions. Don't claim "science" when that is not true.
Here is Gemini's response:
Contrary to popular belief, a shaving brush will actually dry faster standing upright (bristles up, handle down) than hanging upside down.

Here's why:

  • Evaporation is the main way the brush dries after squeezing and shaking out excess water. Hanging it upside down can trap moisture near the base of the bristles.
  • Standing it upright allows for better airflow and evaporation throughout the bristles.
While the difference may not be massive, most brushes will dry completely within a day regardless of position.
 
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