What's new

A Newbie Figuring out Razor Blades

YMMV is true, of course, but it doesn't give a newbie much to go on. I got a couple of big variety packs three weeks ago, read a few rankings, tried to guess what I'd like most, and guessed wrong. I started with Derbies just to be safe, moved up to a Merkur because Mike Sandoval at Shaving 101 gave it a 2 in sharpness on a five-star scale, then moved to Wilkinson Sword and Israeli Personnas, supposedly as a next step up in sharpness. I was pretty happy with Wilkinson Sword but not with any of the others. Derby and Merkur seemed dull, ineffective, and the Israeli Personnas seemed harsh. Then I tried a 7 O'clock sharp edge (yellow box). I liked that. But it wasn't until I got to the Personna Med Preps that my eyes were opened, or I fell in love, or something.

So, yesterday, I settled down and started studying blades more systematically and thoroughly. The B&B blade reviews were tremendously helpful, and I also found some rankings on the Shavenook that correlated pretty closely with what I was seeing on B&B. And there were various other sources scattered across the web. My current impression is that after all due concessions are made to differing beard and skin types, a rough consensus has actually formed over which blades are of the highest quality, which ones are middling, and which ones are not very good. By "consensus," I mean that experienced shavers seem to have very similar experiences of pleasure and satisfaction with some blades, and very similar experiences of dissatisfaction with other blades. They seem to agree very often on which blades give them satisfaction, and which blades do not.

In sorting these blades into provisional categories according to what looks like consensus on quality, I won't consider either price or longevity; I'll consider only sharpness and smoothness, the two criteria that seem to be most important in determining the effectiveness of a blade, and the enjoyment it provides for any given shave (even if used only once, as some people speak of Feather).

Everybody seems to agree, more or less, that Feather is the sharpest, but many people feel it's a little too harsh or aggressive for their own needs. (That's where I am too--second day on a Feather, having no serious trouble, but feeling just a slight after-effect of discomfort, irritation; and thus looking forward to returning to the Med Preps.)

Below the Feather in sharpness, there seems to be a rough consensus that a group of four blades are closely comparable in being both sharp and smooth--really high quality blades. Here's the list I've come up with (I'm listing only blades currently in production). I'd be curious to see how others would modify or qualify this list:

Polsilver Super Iridium
Gillette Silver Blue
Personna Medical Prep
Gillette Super Platinum (black box)


Below this set, the consensus starts getting weaker; individual judgments vary more. Some blades (Bic, for instance) get wildly divergent ratings. Mike Sandoval says Bic is his favorite blade; other people say they tried it once and trash-canned it. Still, there is a reasonable amount of agreement about what constitutes pretty decent blades in this middling range. Here are some blades that seem to fit into that middling group (I'll put a question mark after the ones that seem most doubtful or problematic).

Gillette Sharp Edge (yellow box)
Perma Sharp Super
Astra Superior Platinum
Gillette 7 O'clock (green box)
Israeli Personna (?)
Wilkinson Sword (?)
Bic (?)

Blue Bird (?)
Gillette Goal (?)

This middling group could be expanded, no doubt, but then, there seems to be a lot of agreement about blades that probably don't fit into that middling group, that fall below it. Here are some blades that seem to get little respect or affection:

Lord
Big Ben
7 a.m.
Sharp
Shark
Merkur
Arco
Crown
Treet
Trig

**************

The largest factor confounding consensus is sharpness, I think. A fair number of shavers aren't comfortable with the blades in that top group--too sharp. But for people who can tolerate the sharpness, there seems to be a lot of agreement about relative smoothness. If one's face can take it without discomfort, a smooth, sharp shave seems to be what many shavers are aiming for. (Again, price, and longevity as a factor of price, are left out of this account.)

***************

Having some provisional sense of what the consensus is like gives me more to go on in exploring and comparing blades--cutting through the blur of varying individual impressions about dozens of different blades. (Reading Amazon reviews just adds to the confusion. People who don't know what they are talking about tend to speak up at random. Sometimes one gets what looks like a judicious judgment, but often not.)

I came across a method for comparing blades that I've decided to adopt for myself. This is from ShaveMyFace:

http://forum.shavemyface.com/viewtopic.php?t=21061

Along with giving his own personal rankings of blades, Leisureguy recommends this method:

1. Shave a week with the “best blade.” This sets a baseline for comparison.
2. Shave a week with a new brand (unless it fails the test of two terrible shaves).
3. If the new brand is better, it becomes your new “best blade”: go to 2.
4. If the new brand is not better, go to 1.

By using this approach you’re always comparing just two brands: your best so far and a new brand. That makes the comparison easy, and by always starting the comparison with a week shaving with the “best,” you not only get a break from testing, you get a fresh reminder of what a blade that’s good for you feels like before you try the next new brand.

One experienced shaver discovered that sometimes two different brands are almost equal in quality, and that for those, using each brand on alternate days allows for a closer comparison.


Adopting this method, I'm starting with Personna Med Preps as my Best Blade. Since longevity in a blade isn't a big concern for me, I'm going to give each new blade just three or at most four days for trial, rather than a whole week. That way, I can work through the comparisons more quickly and still get a good feel for each of the blades. (I'm using only one razor, the Merkur 34C. That will help reduce confounding factors. I will vary the soaps some, probably, though. Using the Mergress and looking toward a slant or even a Vision can wait a while.)

I'll take notes on each blade.

Also, I've sorted the blades into a couple of plastic trays with dividing partitions (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQPZDK/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Now I'm making up notes on bits of index cards, recording how some experienced shavers have rated them. Leisureguy's ratings are noted, and the ratings from a thread at Shavenook, especially the ratings by EHV, which accord closely with the evaluations given by some of the more experienced shavers on B&B:
http://shavenook.com/thread-the-cutting-edge-one-line-reviews-of-blades. I also note Squire's grades (on a scale of 7). That way, I can gradually get a feel for the criteria that go into any given rater's evaluations of various blades.

I'll work through the comparisons starting at the top, with the group of five blades that seem most widely prized by aficionados (Feather, Polsilver Super Iridium, Gillette Silver Blue, Gillette Super Platinum, and Personna Med Prep). Then I'll keep going with the next group. I suppose I'll stop once I'm satisfied that I have a good feel for, say, a dozen blades.

I would be glad to get impressions from others about these blades and the possibility of grouping blades in such a way that a newbie can get oriented to the array of options and find what works best for him. Starting with relatively "forgiving" blades is surely a good idea, as one learns to handle the razor. But pretty quickly just using a safe and uninteresting blade becomes not very satisfying. One wants to find out where the good stuff is.

Joe
 
Last edited:
My top 3 in the top group are
1.) German Wilkinson, most comfortable, thick and sharp, gets more comfortable even after a few shaves
2.) Astra SP, thinner but not as thin as feather, consitent, reliable and sharp
3.) Feather is sharp but too thin, tends to flex too much in aggressive razors, best used in a Slant, not in a Fatip or R41. The slant gives it more stability and less buffering/flexing
 
My top 3 in the top group are
1.) German Wilkinson, most comfortable, thick and sharp, gets more comfortable even after a few shaves
2.) Astra SP, thinner but not as thin as feather, consitent, reliable and sharp
3.) Feather is sharp but too thin, tends to flex too much in aggressive razors, best used in a Slant, not in a Fatip or R41. The slant gives it more stability and less buffering/flexing

Glad to hear the good word for Wilkinson, and I do keep hearing good things about the Astra SP. In my initial sorting of blades I'd try, I left the Astra SPs out of consideration, but looking at ratings and reviews over the past couple of days led me to put them back in. I've now heard two or three experienced shavers place them in the list of their favorite blades.

Joe
 
My top 3 in the top group are
1.) German Wilkinson, most comfortable, thick and sharp, gets more comfortable even after a few shaves
2.) Astra SP, thinner but not as thin as feather, consitent, reliable and sharp
3.) Feather is sharp but too thin, tends to flex too much in aggressive razors, best used in a Slant, not in a Fatip or R41. The slant gives it more stability and less buffering/flexing

Mike Sandoval at Shaving 101 gives very high marks to the Wilkinson:

http://www.shaving101.com/index.php/education/double-edge-shaving/48-choosing-the-right-blade.html

Wilkinson Sword blades from Germany offer an outstanding balance of edge quality and comfort. The Wilkinson blade is different from many other blades in that it is coated with a propriety process using chromium, ceramic, and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). The synthetic polymer coating is intended reduce friction and allow the blade to cut smoother and with less irritation. Although the edge sharpness of the Wilkinson Sword is not in the top tier of blades available today, the special coating process combined with the quality of steel make them one of the most consistent and comfortable brands. This is an outstanding blade for average wet shavers as well as those who are new to the process and need a blade that is a bit more forgiving.


Joe
 
My top 3 in the top group are
1.) German Wilkinson, most comfortable, thick and sharp, gets more comfortable even after a few shaves
2.) Astra SP, thinner but not as thin as feather, consitent, reliable and sharp
3.) Feather is sharp but too thin, tends to flex too much in aggressive razors, best used in a Slant, not in a Fatip or R41. The slant gives it more stability and less buffering/flexing

My experience is a bit different. My top 3 are Feather, Wilkinson Sword, and Astra SP. Here is the breakdown. I have tried Feather is a cross section of my razors from my least to most aggressive. Flawless performance each time, but the cost element is a big hit. Astra blades tend to do better for me in my mild shavers, Krona, Diplomat, etc. For something more aggressive like my Aristocrat or 1930s New, the WS is the better blade.

Derby = Merkur = Avoid
Dorco = no better than a blunt rock.
 

Thanks, I had decided to go ahead and stock up on a few blades that I had enjoyed or that looked most promising. I got 20 or so Polsilver Super Iridiums, Feathers, and Gillette Silver Blues, and a hundred each of the Med preps and 7 O'clock yellows and blacks. I figure that since I can tolerate the Feathers and actively like the Med Preps, these blades are in the right range for me. (Early on, I got a big supply of the Israeli Personnas and the Bics, a mistake, though I'll try them both again carefully just to make sure.)

Once I get in the requisite 50 posts, I'm planning on offering up a bundle of blades on B/S/T, offering a big supply of the ones I don't like for just a small portion of the ones I do like. Maybe some other newbie rashly stocked up on Med Preps and decided he prefers Bics, Derbys, and Israeli Personnas! Or maybe someone would just be willing to trade a puck of good soap or bottle of good aftershave for a couple hundred mid-range blades. Here's hoping.

Joe
 
My top three blades:

Gillette Black
Personna Blue Lab
Feather

The Feather is definitely the sharpest, but also the most unforgiving. The Blues are most forgiving, but not quite as sharp. For me, the Blacks hit the sweet spot, almost as sharp as the Feather, almost as forgiving as the Blue.

Nice thread, BTW.
 
Awesome post, thanks. As a newbie I have been trying to make sense of all the available blades too, and came up with a list that looks quite like yours (probably because I recognised most of the resources you linked to :001_smile). I started on Astra SP's and so far have only decided that they are pretty good and better than Wilkinson Swords for me. I have about 2 weeks supply remaining, and am currently leaning towards buying another 20 of these and maybe a couple of well chosen samples rather than a big sample selection.

I will watch this with interest :thumbup:.
 
My rotation is in order of preference
Super Iridium
Silver Blue
Feather
Perma Sharp
Med prep (I used to like these blades but I'm changing my mind and won't replace them)

Gillette blacks and yellows are too to rough for me, many people love Astra but they tear up my face.

You did a great job of grouping them but go with a sampler pack because every face is different. I kept notes in the beginning so I would not forget my impressions of each blade. I also get a different performance depending upon what razor I use.
 
Last edited:
My top 3 in the top group are
1.) German Wilkinson, most comfortable, thick and sharp, gets more comfortable even after a few shaves
2.) Astra SP, thinner but not as thin as feather, consitent, reliable and sharp
3.) Feather is sharp but too thin, tends to flex too much in aggressive razors, best used in a Slant, not in a Fatip or R41. The slant gives it more stability and less buffering/flexing

That's good information on the relative thickness and the way that works in different razors. I've shaved only once now with my new Merkur 37C slant, using a Polsilver SI. I'll definitely try a feather out in it.

Kent Kimmons said:
Astra blades tend to do better for me in my mild shavers, Krona, Diplomat, etc. For something more aggressive like my Aristocrat or 1930s New, the WS is the better blade.

I tried the Wilkinson very early in the process, and before I had enough experience to judge very well. (I'm still only four weeks in to wet shaving.) I'll try it again soon in one of the more aggressive razors. I shaved this morning for the first time with a Razorock Little Bastone, which is the same as a Cadet, I've been told. I used a Polsilver SI. Good shave, but it might not be a bad idea to bring the blade down a notch in sharpness. A little raw under the chin. (But then, I'm still recovering there from overdoing it with a new Mergress, also loaded with a Polsilver SI, so I'll have to see how things feel when it all calms down.) I'll definitely try the Wilkinson in the Gillette NEW. I've shaved with that only once, also. I'm waiting for some MetalWax Tri-Pac to take off the last little smidgen of corrosion inside the combs. Then I'll give it a whirl. The truth is, I've been getting so many new razors that it's been hard to settle in and really test different blades with the same razor, or the same blade with different razors. But all that is about over for now. One more razor coming in (a Gillette Slim). Soon, I'll settle in and try one razor for a week at a time.

One can either methodically try one variation at a time, or try everything once or twice, then settle in. I found it psychologically impossible not to try each razor at least once as they arrived. Same with brushes.

Chadao said:
The Feather is definitely the sharpest, but also the most unforgiving. The Blues are most forgiving, but not quite as sharp. For me, the Blacks hit the sweet spot, almost as sharp as the Feather, almost as forgiving as the Blue.

So far, for the past few weeks, I've mainly been circling around Personna Med Prep and Polsilver SI. I've tried Feather once and will try it again in a less aggressive razor. The Med Preps and the SI's have been good to me, but I'm eager to move on and try new blades, especially the Black. I haven't yet tried the Astra SP. Or even the Gillette Silver Blues. Lots to learn, both the blades and how the different blades function in different razors. Lots to look forward to.

I finally assembled most of the blade kit I'll be using over the next several months, trying things out.

$15 blade pack.jpg

Or, almost assembled it. After all these good words on Wilkinson, I think I'll need to order more than the nine I currently have. True, I haven't tried them out effectively yet, but I'm confident, and I feel that they should get the same act-of-faith treatment as I've given other blades of good repute--ordering the 100 pack.

Thanks for all the feedback! Very helpful.

Joe
 
+1 that you've made an excellent selection. Pretty much every shaver has particular preferences, so one person's top three are another person's "not so good." For example, lots of shavers love Personna Meds, but they don't work for me, and the blades that work best for me don't work for other shavers. You might want to check out "Squire's Blade Reviews" on another site. It's always YMMV, but his reviews, though a few years old, are a great point of departure.
 
Your choices are excellent, but the variables are nearly infinite. My top three blades are the Polsilver, PermaSharp, and GSB. To my face the Polsilver is the sharpest and the GSB the least sharp but most forgiving. The GSB may be the perfect blade for me for a 1 day growth, but it is nearly useless on my face when I have a heavier 3 day growth. It is just not sharp enough to cut through 3 days of barbed wire.

Then, of course, you have to throw in the biggest variable, the razor itself. I love the ATT M1 as my daily razor, but I need a more aggressive razor if my beard is a few days old even with a fresh Polsilver blade.

Therein lies the joy of this crazy hobby of ours. What used to be simple - just throw a little green goo on the face and have at it with Gillette's multiblade "one size fits nobody" razor - has become a ritual with infinite possibilities. I look forward to a great shave every day.

Enjoy
 
Top Bottom