What's new

More or less aggressive razor as technique improves?

It's paradoxical, but aggressive razors are easier to get an okay shave with, but make it harder to get a really good one. At least that's my experience. Mild razors require the right blade and good technique, but you can get amazing results with no irritation.

For someone just doing a quick pass or two in the morning to look presentable, an aggressive razor might be preferable. Also, they have an advantage in head shaving due to their greater range of shaving angles.
 
One thing I forgot to mention was the absence or presence of facial hair. If I sported a goatee I could get BBS in 2 passes. I remember going to a shave meet up several years ago and thought I was at a beard convention.
I never trust any YouTube / shaving guru who sports a goatee. The chin is an incredibly sensitive area for most folks, and while a goatee may be a fashion statement, it does nothing to inspire confidence or credibility of any claims they may make about products they're "reviewing".

... Thom
 
I'm not a fan of aggressive razors. When I started the journey I landed on mild razors and mild blades while I worked on my technique but was sometimes frustrated by not getting a close enough shave, particularly on my trouble spots along my jawline. I slowly but surely, almost unconsciously, began to gravitate to sharper blades while still using mild razors like vintage Gillette Super Speeds, a Game Changer 68-P, a Rockwell 6C on the R3 or R4 plates and an Edwin Jagger DE89. And those trouble spots disappeared. I wasn't having to go over the same spot 5 times and therefore avoided irritation. And that's where I am today: Perma-Sharps, Nacets, Astra SPs in those razors really deliver for me. I rely less and less on my Derby Extras, for instance, a fine blade actually but not quite at the level I prefer anymore since I honed my technique.
 
I never trust any YouTube / shaving guru who sports a goatee. The chin is an incredibly sensitive area for most folks, and while a goatee may be a fashion statement, it does nothing to inspire confidence or credibility of any claims they may make about products they're "reviewing".

... Thom
I have a goatee myself and have for probably 30 years and totally agree with you. I haven't shaved my upper lip or my chin in all those years, so how can I provide a really reliable report on a particular razor or blade in the two most difficult areas to shave?
 
As my technique got better I really started enjoying mild razors. Most of them only work in a small angle so they force you to take care of the angle to get a good shave. I get excellent shaves from a Giesen und Forsthoff Timor cc, which is milder than a r89.
But on the other hand I never liked aggressive razors, I tried many and sold them.
But.. I recently bought a R41 which I really enjoy. It gives me direct but smooth shaves that are very close. On my skin it doesn't feel aggressive at all. There are still a few small nicks but far less than I had with any other open comb razor.

So your question is not very easy to answer. That's my conclusion.

Edit
My fav razors are rockwell 6s R3, Giesen und Forsthoff Timor cc, and newly the R41
 
Last edited:
As a person's technique improves, they'll be able to more easily discover their preference in razors. That might be more mild or it might be more aggressive. And someone with good technique is able to achieve good results with just about any razor. But some razors will still deliver better results than others, and that's precisely what razor preference is all about. It'll be different for every person.

And when I say good technique, I'm not only talking about technique with the razor itself. Lather quality also has a huge impact on the results. Better quality lather protects better and can result in a very different preference in razors.
 
I have walked almost the same path as you. From starter razor (DE89) to more aggressive ones (like Lupo 95, Rocca), as well as some injector Schick razors and AC type (ATT, Vector). I am now returning to more mild razors, with the Masamune, GC 68 (SB and OC) as my favorites. I still own a GC 84 and Rocca (and a Muhle R106), but they see less use.
 
I never trust any YouTube / shaving guru who sports a goatee. The chin is an incredibly sensitive area for most folks, and while a goatee may be a fashion statement, it does nothing to inspire confidence or credibility of any claims they may make about products they're "reviewing".

... Thom
Could not have said it better. I will not watch a video of someone shaving who has facial hair.
 
After decades I prefer making milder razors. I can’t for the life of me how guys get BBS shaves with 2 passes. It takes me 3 plus touch up to get there regardless of aggression level. That is why I prefer milder razors.
I think people vary in their opinion of what constitutes BBS. I think it is much easier to get visual BBS than to get tactile BBS. I prefer the latter, my face must feel smooth to my fingertips when rubbing against the grain. Getting that everywhere takes me three passes and touchups. If I would settle for looking clean shaven I could get by with two passes.
 
I started with a relatively mild razor, Muhle R89. As my technique improved I complimented it with the more efficient Merkur 37C slant. This combo was all I needed. But, I had an itch to scratch with adjustables so I picked up the Rockwell 6. One razor, multiple plates to accommodate any level of beard growth. Well, I liked it so much that I sold the Muhle and Merkur, currently just use my Rockwell 6S, mostly with plates 3 or 4 depending on growth. So one can either have a few razors of different efficiency, or one good adjustable. Of course collectors with deep pockets can have more fun trying the many options available. For myself, the Rockwell 6S should hold me for life, and these days, my search is for the best soaps and scents
 
Over the years I have tried mild, moderate, aggressive, slant and straight razors. In the end, I determined that for me the optimal set-up is a ‘mild/moderate’ razor plus a sharp blade! YMMV for sure.

In sum, I suggest you try a range of options to determine what works best for you. :popc::popc:
 
I consider my technique to be high level.

I still don't enjoy my aggressive razors and have settled on one razor and have used it almost exclusively for many years now.

Mild razors for the win. That doesn't mean settling for stubble post shave or having to do 6 passes. My go-to is a 53 blade gap, 2 pass, perfect shaves every time.

Use what you like. Like what you use.
So? What razor are you talking about?
Inquiring minds need to know...
 

brucered

System Generated
So? What razor are you talking about?
Inquiring minds need to know...
RazoRock Mamba (53 branded now).

It's dismissed by so many people as not being able to cut. It cuts and no special technique needed.

For a while I was a Monday to Thursday, evening shaver, 1 pass and it was perfect. I shave every other day now, weekends off and do 2 pass (WTG/ATG). Still perfect.
 
RazoRock Mamba (53 branded now).

It's dismissed by so many people as not being able to cut. It cuts and no special technique needed.

For a while I was a Monday to Thursday, evening shaver, 1 pass and it was perfect. I shave every other day now, weekends off and do 2 pass (WTG/ATG). Still perfect.
Interesting. It's gonna be some time before I can buy one but it's on my radar now.
Thank you.
 
On topic now,
To me it doesn't really matter what I shave with. My technique has improved quite a bit since I started shaving again and most of my razors give me a damn good shave. There is the occasional bad one but that is more because I either not take my time or push a blade beyond it's lifespan and use too much pressure.
Mild razors, agressive razors. I love them all. Well, not the Thorn. Horrible stupid razor that is. In my hands at least.
 
Top Bottom