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What did you hone today?

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Travel coticule dilucot. This stone is awesome. I have to get me a bigger one.
 
Just a little experiment today.
The Arkansas 'progression '

I shaped a small soft Arkansas stone to a convex shape using my adjustable concave lapping plate.
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I set a new bevel using WD40 on the Soft Ark.
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Soft Ark concave edge/bevel

Then I finished on a flat Translucent Arkansas.
This results in a slightly toothy edge that is still comfortable because the serrations/teeth are rounded and burnished. This is the apex at 900x. At 15x you can't see this.
The only reason I used a convex stone in this case is to reduce the surface area contacting the flat stone, thereby speeding up the stone considerably.

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Today I took one of the razors I purchased to practice my honing on, and worked it through my King 1k to my Vermont Slate and then finished on my Guangxu stone.

The shave was decent, but by the third pass it was kind of out of gas. I couldn't get it close around my chin area. The Guangxu isn't a bad stone, but it is slow. I almost gave up, but I pressed on and she finally started giving me a good edge.

My strop might be a problem. It's getting lumpy, or bumpy. It's not smooth anymore. It has spots that look different, almost rough-like. I tried a rolling pin on it to smooth it out but to no avail. I'll try and get a picture and put it in the strop forum.
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Day 1 of bevel set on this John Cockhill's celebrated razor. I did actually start with tape on this as it looked pretty wonky. I think John might have celebrated a bit too much before he ground it. However I measured the bevel angle up around 19 degrees, and I think the wonkiness of the spine is sufficient that a bevel on it is a good idea, so I restarted without tape

The show side is ok, slightly convex and needs a bit of a roll but not too wild:
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The rear side is more messy:
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Whacking great protruding flat on the spine at the toe, another protrusion at the heel and the recessed middle does not make good contact edge or spine. A reverse roll seems to hit it okay.

Did I mention it's pitted to hell? Still quite a bit to work through at the toe, and a few chips to hone past as well. The edge hadn't even come in on the front third yet, so there's a way to go.
 
What's the stone? I have a couple that look similar.
I thought it was a green Schwedenstein…however the scratch pattern and face feel have led me to believe that it is not as fine as my other Schwedenstein stones.

So my guess is that it’s a Vermont Green Slate, but I am not expert and it’s as good a guess as anyone’s.

The edge gave me a great shave, so can’t argue with the results!
 
Wow. I don't speak Japanese, but that sounds like quite a thorough honing!😳😊
It's a mouthful of words, but it's pretty simple when you break it down. I say Morihei because I bought it at Morihei in Tokyo straight from the hands of Akamitsu Oguro, not some anonymous auction seller. Oozuku is the name of the mine - if Oguro-san says it came from Oozuku, you can count on it. They record every stone they acquire at Morihei and number them. They also record who they sold it to. Suminagashi Asagi are just descriptors. Suminagashi means a ink-like pattern or oily ink in water pattern over the asagi coloring which usually describes a grey or greenish stone. Likewise Mizu-Asagi would describe a bluish asagi coloring - mizu means water in Japanese. Just appearance descriptions, not necessarily performance descriptions. Probably a more important point is the hardness level of the stone. This particular stone (#642) was graded as level 5+ (very hard) by Oguro-san. I have an mizu-asagi that he graded as level 5 (hard).

The rest of the gibberish tells the nagura progression, which was more than I needed to do after the Morihei semi-synthetic Extra Fine (not Ultra Fine as I originally posted). This man-made stone has a synthetic binder and contains ground Japanese natural stone abrasive. It's around the 12k synthetic grit for comparison. Tomo is a term loosely used - it used to mean a portion of stone taken from the base stone as a rubbing stone to make slurry. Nowadays it's used for just about any hard stone that creates slurry from the base stone. Diamond tomo is a term meaning I used a diamond plate or similar to release slurry from the base stone.

Probably more information than anyone wanted, but there it is.
 
@Koop I think I'm light years away from diving into the mysterious world of JNats, although if I were in Japan and buying from a master, I'd be all in to.

Good info.👍🏻
 
Been a while for me... Bit of an experiment today. When I first got this kiita, I would use it as a one stone hone: start with a diamond slurry and finish on water, and got some pretty good edges for a newbie. So, I decided to see if what I have learned in the interim makes a difference. HHT was great, so the shave in the morning will be the test.

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Hello! Bought a Dovo last year and it was ok in the beginning. After finding out the hard way that their oil wasn't enough to maintain it from rust I sent it back after some PM with them. They said that they will try to fix the gold inlay and also hone it (for free first year when you buy from their website). When I got it back it was even worse. What wetstones are there for a good price that gives me a sharp and close shave? Where to buy and hot many K/grit?
Attach some photos from when I got it back a week ago.
 

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Hello! Bought a Dovo last year and it was ok in the beginning. After finding out the hard way that their oil wasn't enough to maintain it from rust I sent it back after some PM with them. They said that they will try to fix the gold inlay and also hone it (for free first year when you buy from their website). When I got it back it was even worse. What wetstones are there for a good price that gives me a sharp and close shave? Where to buy and hot many K/grit?
Attach some photos from when I got it back a week ago.
I’d send it out to be honed. Where are you located?
 
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