What's new

Using coti slurry on another stone (solution to dished coti)

Yup, that is not badly dished and will lap easily with a 140 plate or sheet of 220.

The BBW looks like it has potential. Some dark purple stone were as good as the Yellow side. Lots posted on the Rue BBW stones.

I too glue any cracks and or the BBW glue seam with thin CA. Goes a lot quicker if you use a CA kicker.

Stand the stone on edge and apply thin CA. If it comes out the other side, apply tape, any tape, masking or electrical to the other side and edges. Add glue and let dry until it pools on one side, then do the other side.

Excess glue laps off easily. Glue it before lapping.

Looks like potentially a nice stone.
 
In extreme cases I've seen the stone sawed parallel to the surface to get two wedge pieces and a closer to flat stone... this is done more to save effort than to save stone, and as others said, yours is nowhere near a severe dish, has loads of yellow left and coti slurry stones are easy to get. I hate wasting stuff too, but it's more effort than it is worth in this case, just lap it.
 
Yup, that is not badly dished and will lap easily with a 140 plate or sheet of 220.

The BBW looks like it has potential. Some dark purple stone were as good as the Yellow side. Lots posted on the Rue BBW stones.

I too glue any cracks and or the BBW glue seam with thin CA. Goes a lot quicker if you use a CA kicker.

Stand the stone on edge and apply thin CA. If it comes out the other side, apply tape, any tape, masking or electrical to the other side and edges. Add glue and let dry until it pools on one side, then do the other side.

Excess glue laps off easily. Glue it before lapping.

Looks like potentially a nice stone.
Those "peacock eye" bbws are *better* than a lot of the yellow coticules (kinda redundant) out there fairly frequently. That why i but them offlooks and not vein name. A lot of the time i buy mostly natural combos and pick them by the quality that the bbw appears and it hasn't failed me yet. I've gotten some good veins on accident by this method but the best ones were pulled out of the ground long before(probably a century or 7) that was ever a thing. The La Rouge ones are very very good and smooth(that I've tried, but probably in my top 3 favorite edges) but some of those really fine, high manganese bbws with the dark blue mother of pearl looking spots can leave an edge that's like a hard ark. I've got several that give a much keener edge than the hybrid side of my Les latneuses stone(not vintage, yellow side is amazingly fast, not super fine, but sadly very soft). You never really know until you put steel on it though, I've had some look exactly like something amazing and then not be too interesting or efficient in the end.
 
Last edited:
is this one dished?

8675309.902010.jpg


Asking for a friend :D
 
I used to watch Tony Hawk skate on that in the late 80's.

At least the seller is not asking a silly price. For the money some Aussie might be able to salvage something to dip their toe into coticule waters, for razor finishing at least.
yes, it's not a silly price, but i think anything over a buck is a bit dear for such a well loved item, this little aussie black duck will not be dipping he toes in it. :D
 

Legion

Staff member
yes, it's not a silly price, but i think anything over a buck is a bit dear for such a well loved item, this little aussie black duck will not be dipping he toes in it. :D
Me either, but I was watching it out of curiosity. I reckon you could lap it so it still had two or three MM of thickness, which if you were just using it as a finishing stone it would probably last years.

And it is a natural combo, so the blue side is worth the minimum bid. As long as it isn't getting bid up by multiple players, and you don't have to pay international shipping, I've seen worse buys.
 
Last edited:

Legion

Staff member
yes, it's not a silly price, but i think anything over a buck is a bit dear for such a well loved item, this little aussie black duck will not be dipping he toes in it. :D

Me either, but I was watching it out of curiosity. I reckon you could lap it so it still had two or three MM of thickness, which if you were just using it as a finishing stone it would probably last years.

And it is a natural combo, so the blue side is worth the minimum bid. As long as it isn't getting bid up by multiple players, and you don't have to pay international shipping, I've seen worse buys.

You think that one is worn out, check out this one I bought. Still took it home because it was cheap enough to use the blue side for kitchen knives. And the blue adjacent to the yellow in a nat combo is usually best.

IMG_6506.jpeg
IMG_6512.jpeg
 
Thanks to all of your advice, I’m on my way to lapping the one on the right.

These are both of my coticules. Could you offer any insight into how I may use them effectively?IMG_0077.jpeg
 
I have taken to using my coticule with plain water only, no slurry, paying close attention to feedback as I go. I don’t keep track of lap count but it must be in the several dozens usually.
 

Legion

Staff member
Thanks to all of your advice, I’m on my way to lapping the one on the right.

These are both of my coticules. Could you offer any insight into how I may use them effectively?View attachment 1731779
Each coticule is a little different, and you will have to experiment.

I'd probably start by rubbing them together to make a slurry, then using the same razor see which one feels the fastest (by how quickly they raise swarf.) Then you can make an educated guess which one might be the better bevel setter and which ones the finisher.

Not fool proof by any means, but will be a place to start.
 
Maurice sells Coti powder, about $15 for 20 g.....

Have not found it to be worth my time... I find Coti magic to be all about Coti slurry on a Coti.
Dried Coti slurry powder on other surfaces, not so much.

The OP Coti, can't see a good reason for not lapping it.

Judging stone speed by slurry color can yield a false ***/neg.
Depending on the solution density, ph, etc...the metal swarf might or might not tend to stay in suspension. If the suspension isn't stable enough, the swarf will sink fast, taking the color with it.
So it's possible to have a faster stone with lighter slurry and a slower one with darker slurry. Just one of those funny things that Mother Nature throws into the mix. If I am trying to gauge speed, and I usually don't bother anymore, I rely on how fast the feel of the edge comes around on sets of x strokes. This is like the only time I'll count strokes. Can't remember tha last time I bothered though.
Usually, I just start honing with a bastardized dulicot, relying on typical tells to gauge progress.
 
Top Bottom