+1 Post a WTB message in the BST section. Those are the rules of the site. Sales via PM are forbidden. I have some stuff laying around that I can dig out which would help you. Just list the items you have and what you are looking for. Location information helps for postage.
Straight razor...I don't know ...
- Thread starter albsat
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- #142
Thank you guys for the direction. I meant buying from the bay and what to look for on vintage affordable razors. But yes I should consider our forum bst. Never done before a wtb thread.
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- #143
I have been blessed by a gentleman here who gave me a razor honed with diamond paste progression . I got some paste from him to try and make my balsa strops as well. So far I have made a 0.1um balsa strop.
I am trying to keep it shave ready with the 0.1um pasted balsa strop.
The edge feels like a shavette but without the risk to create a damage. Although I am used to shavettes and I can get excellent shaves with some of mine.
It is a bit weird to have a shave ready razor with a piece of wood. Let's see how long I can keep the edge this way.
I am trying to keep it shave ready with the 0.1um pasted balsa strop.
The edge feels like a shavette but without the risk to create a damage. Although I am used to shavettes and I can get excellent shaves with some of mine.
It is a bit weird to have a shave ready razor with a piece of wood. Let's see how long I can keep the edge this way.
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- #144
Continuing my straight razor journey...
Today I honed an almost as new razor a Macy 95 one, a nice gift from the same gentleman (you know who you are).
1k, 6k, then 3um and 1um lapping film. I gave about 5 laps on Herold black paste on synthetic leather strop.
The sharpness was excellent, it went great almost the same quality with my best Shavette setup.
However as like with all my straight razor shaves all my shaves leave a slight burn feeling. Some do leave more and some less.
What is wrong with my edges?! Got to find it out asap.
Summary of my journey.
I have found out that vintage razors are so much easier to hone than my GD razor.
GD razor now is set aside.
I have 4 razors that are promising. One of them is finished on JNAT. It has an excellent edge but it has created a chip from humidity probably a tiny spot of rust. I haven't used it more than 3 times. I can feel the chip but apart of that the edge is great. I want to keep that razor as a measurement for my honing progress.
I have spent a lot of time in a Solingen beater razor. I am maintaining it with pastes. it has a dry edge and it is not fun.
I was gifted with 2 new razors. One of them, the one described above was honed today. My 3um film has a scratch in the middle and it is my last piece.
The other razor came with a 0.1um diamond balsa strop edge. I am maintaining it with a balsa strop. It has a great sharpness but it still leaves a bit of burn feeling as well.
Shavettes are more dangerous if I do a mistake (it happens from nowhere), maybe a tiny bit more profound shave, but they are much better at post shave skin feeling.
Thanks for your time reading about my journey.
Today I honed an almost as new razor a Macy 95 one, a nice gift from the same gentleman (you know who you are).
1k, 6k, then 3um and 1um lapping film. I gave about 5 laps on Herold black paste on synthetic leather strop.
The sharpness was excellent, it went great almost the same quality with my best Shavette setup.
However as like with all my straight razor shaves all my shaves leave a slight burn feeling. Some do leave more and some less.
What is wrong with my edges?! Got to find it out asap.
Summary of my journey.
I have found out that vintage razors are so much easier to hone than my GD razor.
GD razor now is set aside.
I have 4 razors that are promising. One of them is finished on JNAT. It has an excellent edge but it has created a chip from humidity probably a tiny spot of rust. I haven't used it more than 3 times. I can feel the chip but apart of that the edge is great. I want to keep that razor as a measurement for my honing progress.
I have spent a lot of time in a Solingen beater razor. I am maintaining it with pastes. it has a dry edge and it is not fun.
I was gifted with 2 new razors. One of them, the one described above was honed today. My 3um film has a scratch in the middle and it is my last piece.
The other razor came with a 0.1um diamond balsa strop edge. I am maintaining it with a balsa strop. It has a great sharpness but it still leaves a bit of burn feeling as well.
Shavettes are more dangerous if I do a mistake (it happens from nowhere), maybe a tiny bit more profound shave, but they are much better at post shave skin feeling.
Thanks for your time reading about my journey.
If you add 10 strokes on denim loaded with black or red paste and just go to a clean leather strop afterwards, you might get better results.
Hold the razor under a light, and rotate the edge to see the reflection at the edge. You should see a clean reflective apex. If you see allot of distractions here you might have a small burr. This will probably get much cleaner if you add the denim/linen step.
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- #146
Here's my method of finding decent razors on eBay.
Don't look for the popular ones (Dubl-Duck, Dovo, etc). In usable condition they will be expensive. Nice razors, but not a "learn to hone" one.
No rust. Blacking (tarnish) is fine, it will easily polish off. Rust spots well away from the edge are OK, but not desireable.
Minimal to no hone wear. Worn out barber's razors are not a bargain. There are lots of barely used or unused razors out there.
No cracks in the blade.
Unless you plan to immediately replace scales, avoid any razors with warped ones.
Hardware store branded razors made in Germany are likely made by one of the major makers, same steeel and grind. Huge numbers of them are around, often un-used. Ditto for Sheffield made razors.
Check the "newly listed" razors for buy it now ones, quite often a nice razor will show up seriously under-priced.
Of the razors out there to look for when they are cheap: Robeson ShurEdge in any version so long as it's not worn out. Hard steel, hones slowly but should keep an edge for a long time. Torrey and Worcester Razor Co. razors are similar, harder steel than Solingen or Sheffield razors normally, and again, lots of them around. Darkened blades are fine, but watch for scales going bad.
Sort by lowest price, and look for decent looking razors at or below your price range. On any given day I can usually find a decent one for less that $20 shipped to me -- depending on where you are, shipping may be higher. Key things to look for are no rust, minimal hone wear, and no chips in the edge. Absolutely pass on anything with corrosion on the blade where the scales cover it, that's a definite sign the celluloid scales are releasing nitric acid and the razor is useless.
Don't look for the popular ones (Dubl-Duck, Dovo, etc). In usable condition they will be expensive. Nice razors, but not a "learn to hone" one.
No rust. Blacking (tarnish) is fine, it will easily polish off. Rust spots well away from the edge are OK, but not desireable.
Minimal to no hone wear. Worn out barber's razors are not a bargain. There are lots of barely used or unused razors out there.
No cracks in the blade.
Unless you plan to immediately replace scales, avoid any razors with warped ones.
Hardware store branded razors made in Germany are likely made by one of the major makers, same steeel and grind. Huge numbers of them are around, often un-used. Ditto for Sheffield made razors.
Check the "newly listed" razors for buy it now ones, quite often a nice razor will show up seriously under-priced.
Of the razors out there to look for when they are cheap: Robeson ShurEdge in any version so long as it's not worn out. Hard steel, hones slowly but should keep an edge for a long time. Torrey and Worcester Razor Co. razors are similar, harder steel than Solingen or Sheffield razors normally, and again, lots of them around. Darkened blades are fine, but watch for scales going bad.
Sort by lowest price, and look for decent looking razors at or below your price range. On any given day I can usually find a decent one for less that $20 shipped to me -- depending on where you are, shipping may be higher. Key things to look for are no rust, minimal hone wear, and no chips in the edge. Absolutely pass on anything with corrosion on the blade where the scales cover it, that's a definite sign the celluloid scales are releasing nitric acid and the razor is useless.
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- #148
Today I used my sharpest shavette, Weck sextoblade with persona hair shaper (2nd shave) to compare the post shave burn effect with the ones I got from my last straight razor shaves (which were very sharp). This shavette is very similar to a straight razor, but much dangerous.
The shave from Weck Shavette was perfect although this razor requires the best of my technique and focus to not get cut or blood on my face.
So I think I got to improve my honing and most probably should add some stones like a 3k,8k and a 12k stone in the long run. My intuition is to get a 3k first.
The shave from Weck Shavette was perfect although this razor requires the best of my technique and focus to not get cut or blood on my face.
So I think I got to improve my honing and most probably should add some stones like a 3k,8k and a 12k stone in the long run. My intuition is to get a 3k first.
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Could be that the edge just wasn't quite as shave ready as you think. Or it could be any number of other variables, like stropping, prep. Between the original post and now I'd wager you probably have already explored these possibilities. I just don't have time to read the whole thread so I apologize if this is redundant.
In my experience, traditional straights simply don't get as sharp as feather AC blades. While a well honed traditional appears to suffice for the large majority of guys, and certainly for the average beard, there is a percentage of people with exceptionally course whiskers that simply require more than traditional straights are capable of independent of stone and honer. It is with enormous regret that I report that I am one of these unfortunates. Brown man shaves on The Tube is another, and, maybe, you are one, too.
In my experience, traditional straights simply don't get as sharp as feather AC blades. While a well honed traditional appears to suffice for the large majority of guys, and certainly for the average beard, there is a percentage of people with exceptionally course whiskers that simply require more than traditional straights are capable of independent of stone and honer. It is with enormous regret that I report that I am one of these unfortunates. Brown man shaves on The Tube is another, and, maybe, you are one, too.
My professionally honed straight razors are often sharper than the blades used in shavettes. They will literally whittle a hair. I can get as good or better shave with a traditional straight that has been properly honed as with a shavette. A shavette's blades are thinner and will bite into your hair or skin easier. They are coarser to use, too. If a straight is well honed, it is pleasant to shave with, once the technique is mastered. Also, a straight will change the feel of your stubble, somehow. It will be ever so softer feeling after a while (not much, but some). The only downside, if it is a downside, to a straight razor is the maintenance.
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- #152
Regarding sharpness, I have progressed a lot since my first post. My edges are sharp enough now. It is the post shave feeling that I am not getting so far. I get this anyoing burn feeling that last one hour after a straight razor shave.
There are some shavettes that do give a great unique shave, based on the thickness of blade format like weck sextoblade with the Persona Hair shape blade or some other like Universal Lama Intera that has a minimal DE blade exposure.
Anyway I am focused to get the best from my straight razors. I have 4 razors, a strop, 1k/6k King stone, some Lapping films (still), a diamond pasted balsa strop, so I just need to dial in the comfort aspect on using them. I still hope in the straight razor system.
There are some shavettes that do give a great unique shave, based on the thickness of blade format like weck sextoblade with the Persona Hair shape blade or some other like Universal Lama Intera that has a minimal DE blade exposure.
Anyway I am focused to get the best from my straight razors. I have 4 razors, a strop, 1k/6k King stone, some Lapping films (still), a diamond pasted balsa strop, so I just need to dial in the comfort aspect on using them. I still hope in the straight razor system.
A good post-shave feel was, for me, a combination of getting the edges right and getting my pressure right. Correct pressure is essentially nonexistent, just enough to hold the edge against your face at a low angle. Getting it right meant advancing from razor bumps, to during-shave burn, to post-shave burn, then, at long last, really comfortable shaves with happy skin afterwards.
I no longer use my alum block, but for a while it was invaluable at telling me where on my face I hadn't gotten pressure right.
When I (rarely) get any irritation it is because I was not holding the razor shallow enough on my skin, but had the razor tilted out just a bit too far, causing me to use too much pressure. I am not saying that that is what is causing yours, but that is what causes mine. That and if the razor is getting too dull.
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- #155
Are you talking about pressure of the razor during honing?
Or the pressure of the razor on the skin during the shaving?
The second one
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- #157
I got it. Actually I am trying to modify my technique when using a straight razor. Shavettes require a very light touch. My straight razors need some pressure.
One reason about my face burn that I have found is the number of passes. If I do a pass only, the shave is ok. Two passes and then face burn. I will do more test on the pressure.
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- #158
Inspired by the @Herrenberg comment on razor pressure, I decided to shave with the lighted touch possible of the edge on skin using a razor that I got shave ready with 0.1 um diamond pasted finish.
I had to keep the angle of the razor very high and the drag increased due to the light touch. Not used to this kind of shave. However the shave was much much comfortable at the end. Not perfect, but almost. However I don't feel using the razor like this. I will try this technique with another razor tomorrow.
I had to keep the angle of the razor very high and the drag increased due to the light touch. Not used to this kind of shave. However the shave was much much comfortable at the end. Not perfect, but almost. However I don't feel using the razor like this. I will try this technique with another razor tomorrow.
One thing I found, when I was primarily using razors finished on 0.1 diamond paste, was that I also got more burn than I wanted if I did more than two passes. Eventually I moved to natural finishers and that helped.
But, one thing you might try, is doubling your number of stropping laps on clean leather after the diamond paste. Maybe it won't make a difference, but I found extra stropping to be helpful to smooth out the inherent harshness of the diamond edge.
My experience with the diamond and cbn pasted balsa was a failure. The edges are smooth, sharp and comfortable. However, after a few hours the skin was not in a good condition. I also shave every day which I was not able to do with that type of edge.
If I was only shaving one or two times a week it would probably be usable.
There are better abrasives you can use on balsa in my opinion.
If I was only shaving one or two times a week it would probably be usable.
There are better abrasives you can use on balsa in my opinion.
