I feel your pain. I've done the same thing. Once. With a big W&B. Ruined. Lesson learned.
I just want to say I'm furious
- Thread starter gumbo
- Start date
You would be better off finding one of the razor masters to fix that for you... if you get that blade even a few degrees too hot the temper is gone and the blade is ruined and can never be fixed.... at least if the razor master does it you know its in the best possible hands and you have the best possible chance of saving it.
There are lots of very qualified people on this forum that can grind that notch and get your razor back to you in good shape.
Good luck
Grinding tool. The little stone wheel. The thick one.
The blades stuffed anyway, give it a go. Keep a container of water next to you and keep dipping the blade so it does not get too hot. WEAR EYE PROTECTION.
A few further thoughts about grinding the crack away. I was thinking of using one of the small mounted stones about 12 mm dia. x 10 mm thick with an abrasive on the softish side. You should also consider taping a split length of garden hose onto the edge of the blade while you were working on it to protect your hands in the event of a slip. I can get 'generic' wheels here that are probably not as good as the brand ones but are about a tenth of the price. You will probably wear out a few of them doing the job. Draw the area to be ground away with black marker pen and take your time. Keep the job cool and dont be tempted to use a 'hard' Carborundum (SiC) wheel that will work faster but might do all manner of nasty things to the metal of the blade. Good luck!
I took a gouge out of the edge of a blade which was much bigger than that by butter knifing.
It is slow, but you need slow and steady. I used the side of the stone to work the toe and heel so they blended, but it came out superbly and I managed to save a great razor destined for the trash heap.
Dremels are nice for cleaning out brush handles before re-knotting, but you've already seen what can happen to a fragile blade.
For the love of all that is holy - fix it by hand.
It is slow, but you need slow and steady. I used the side of the stone to work the toe and heel so they blended, but it came out superbly and I managed to save a great razor destined for the trash heap.
Dremels are nice for cleaning out brush handles before re-knotting, but you've already seen what can happen to a fragile blade.
For the love of all that is holy - fix it by hand.
- Thread starter
- #27
Thanks for the recommendations and warnings lol.
I'm not exactly sure about the plan going forward. I might send it out to someone who I know would do it properly and well, or I might try to save it myself with a stone by hand. If I can't do it well, at least the risk I put on further damage to the blade is mitigated by not using a motorized tool.
I'm not exactly sure about the plan going forward. I might send it out to someone who I know would do it properly and well, or I might try to save it myself with a stone by hand. If I can't do it well, at least the risk I put on further damage to the blade is mitigated by not using a motorized tool.
Thanks for the recommendations and warnings lol.
I'm not exactly sure about the plan going forward. I might send it out to someone who I know would do it properly and well, or I might try to save it myself with a stone by hand. If I can't do it well, at least the risk I put on further damage to the blade is mitigated by not using a motorized tool.
my vote is for sending it out to be fixed, it has the highest probability of you getting back a usable razor.
I'm not a big fan of stones. They generate a lot of heat. I was kidding about the step away part only because your original mishap involved one.
Look at it this way. The blade is already broken... you can't hurt it much more. With all that said, get one of these.
sears.com
Look at it this way. The blade is already broken... you can't hurt it much more. With all that said, get one of these.
sears.com
You can get the sanding drums in different grits. Get like a 120 or closest to it and a 240 or closest to that. I'm thinkin' your dremel spins ccw as you look into the chuck. If so, hold the blade upright in your left hand after overlapping some tape on the cutting edge beyond the crack to the tip of the blade. The tang would be away from you when you grind the metal away.
If your rotary is variable speed, pick a medium rotation. Start at the tang end of things. First, take off the very heel a little at a time. Only keep the wheel in contact with the steel in 1/2 second bursts. Sparks are ok. Create a rhythm for the removal. If the blade starts getting too hot (uncomfortable to hold in your bare hand), dunk it in water briefly and continue.
Use concentric overhand movements pulling towards the tip of the blade that barely come in contact with the bottom of the tang and ride up the heel area to form the half circle. Continue until you have taken out the crack.
Piece of cake...
If your rotary is variable speed, pick a medium rotation. Start at the tang end of things. First, take off the very heel a little at a time. Only keep the wheel in contact with the steel in 1/2 second bursts. Sparks are ok. Create a rhythm for the removal. If the blade starts getting too hot (uncomfortable to hold in your bare hand), dunk it in water briefly and continue.
Use concentric overhand movements pulling towards the tip of the blade that barely come in contact with the bottom of the tang and ride up the heel area to form the half circle. Continue until you have taken out the crack.
Piece of cake...
- Thread starter
- #30
Thanks Bill!
I'm going to give it a shot, it's just a matter of when. I'll post pictures as soon as it's complete.
I'm going to give it a shot, it's just a matter of when. I'll post pictures as soon as it's complete.
Bill, I was thinking of the aluminum oxide grinding tool. Do you think the sanding drum would be better? I've only ever used those on wood and acrylic.
I guess aluminum oxide is the same stuff that goes into making the sandpaper discs, so they may work just fine. However, I prefer using sandpaper in the form of discs and belts for all my metal work. Stones have always generated too much heat for my taste.Bill, I was thinking of the aluminum oxide grinding tool. Do you think the sanding drum would be better? I've only ever used those on wood and acrylic.
