A newbie’s journey into DE shaving

[Guido75]

Date	08.06.2024
366 daily shaves	160/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Timeless Ti95 SCL	Kai (5)	Abe’s Brush Works Smokey Bandit
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (8)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Almost Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8.75/10 (BBS-)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

Decided to do a 2.5 pass shave rather than a 3.5 pass skipping the XTG pass. Really nice result! It is hovering somewhere between DFS+++ and BBS- I would say. During the shave I had a theory: I am all for reduction rather than blazing guns so I do a 3 pass shave to go easy on the skin and concentrate on reduction. However ATG always leaves me a bit rough, but I need ATG to get to my wanted level of smoothness. Could it be that XTG actually reduces my stubble too much making ATG harder on my skin (i.e. I press down ATG and if there is more stubble it is a more effective pass). Could I have evolved? There was a time I absolutely needed 4 passes for smooth. More effective razors and better technique brought that to 3 passes and I settled for 3.5 including the touch up. I am going to give this skipping the middle pass some more airtime*. Maybe something for the professor to ponder on, so paging @Flanders. Either way the shave was awesome this morning. Very enjoyable even though my effective shaving time was reduced obviously (which is both great and not so great). My skin feels very much at ease - at least more than the last few days.

Brush and lather were excellent. That extra water was the key to unlocking extra glide power! And the razor was utter joy of course!

I think the blade can go another round so let’s use it for Sunday as well.

Enjoy your shave today!

*) What I actually love the most about it is that the suggestion came from my 17yr old Gillette Slim using son!

 

[lasta]

I think you should page the Thombot on this one as well.

Your hair doesn't care about how long it is when being cut. the XTG pass only means more blade on skin time, thus more possibilities for irritation.

With good prep, you could probably skip everything and only do ATG.

 

[Guido75]

Your hair doesn't care about how long it is when being cut. the XTG pass only means more blade on skin time, thus more possibilities for irritation.

Exactly my point yes. It is less close though - at least this morning, but it’s not a fresh blade either.

One pass ATG will have to wait some more. First exploring how this is going. My prep has definitely improved over time so that is favourable at the moment. I did a one pass ATG early on after some conversations with Mike @Esox - but it was too early in my journey to actually pursue it at that time. Always fun to include science into shaving!!

 

[Guido75]

I think you should page the Thombot on this one as well.

I am actually surprised he hasn’t liked my post yet. I mean it’s been an hour already!

 

[Eric_75]

I did a one pass ATG early on after some conversations with Mike @Esox - but it was too early in my journey to actually pursue it at that time. Always fun to include science into shaving!!

I haven't seen any posts from @Esox in a while.

 

[thombrogan]

it’s been an hour already!

I was backing up my system files, I mean I was sleeping. That’s right, sleeping.

 

[Flanders]

Could it be that XTG actually reduces my stubble too much making ATG harder on my skin (i.e. I press down ATG and if there is more stubble it is a more effective pass).

@lasta has the right answer here, but I have a different answer specific to the razor you are using.

The Timeless is a difficult razor to shave ATG with for several reasons: one is maintaining the angle with the handle only 20 degrees off your skin while pulling up with gravity fighting you. The Timeless can cut at a lot of different angles and that can fool you into thinking you are maintaining the right angle. This gets us to the big one for irritation, the safety bar can float if you roll onto the cap accidentally which is more prone to happen shaving ATG. I also think the blade plays a significant role; the Timeless does best when it can be held steady and let it mow down the stubble. Any significant resistance tends to cause the angle to move around as you try to pull it through; hopefully pull and not push as this is a steep angle razor. You already know all this of course and I am just talking out loud here! But, it does sound like the blade has passed its usefulness even though I know these can remain smooth longer than they remain sharp.

 

[Raven Koenes]

I think you should page the Thombot on this one as well.

Your hair doesn't care about how long it is when being cut. the XTG pass only means more blade on skin time, thus more possibilities for irritation.

With good prep, you could probably skip everything and only do ATG.

Exactly my point yes. It is less close though - at least this morning, but it’s not a fresh blade either.

One pass ATG will have to wait some more. First exploring how this is going. My prep has definitely improved over time so that is favourable at the moment. I did a one pass ATG early on after some conversations with Mike @Esox - but it was too early in my journey to actually pursue it at that time. Always fun to include science into shaving!!

I'm down to 2.5 passes. I do three passes on my cheeks, wtg, xtg, and atg. Below my jawline, I shave wtg and atg. I can't get my cheeks and jawline done satisfactorily with a wtg and atg pass. It might just be me; it probably is.

 

[Guido75]

I can't get my cheeks and jawline done satisfactorily with a wtg and atg pass. It might just be me; it probably is.

No it’s not you. I can say that I am usually smoother this time of day (22:30) compared to what I am feeling now. That third pass gets me in the levels I want, so I still think I will do my regular passes tomorrow. I am going to change the XTG from holding my razor tilted up to tilted down. I think that will be smoother. Or I might just do a barbershop style second pass as diagonal is XTG for me.

 

[Guido75]

Date	09.06.2024
366 daily shaves	161/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Canadian Tech	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (1)	Razorock 400 Butterscotch
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (9)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Almost Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8.75/10 (BBS-)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

According to my stats the Canadian Tech is one of my most effective razors - and more shaves are needed to fully assess that of course. So I took out the Tech with a fresh new blade. And it was blissful. Easy, smooth, gliding through my morning stubble. Really nice! Looking forward to some more shaves with this one!

The 7 o'clock blade was smoother and more comfortable than I remember. Maybe the pairing with this razor was spot on or my technique has gone up again, but it was very nice. What is also very nice is that the rashness on my upper lip has seemed to tone down a little. I am probably reading too much into this, but I might have pushed the Kai beyond limits causing the burning skin to appear. This morning none of that at least.

Did my usual 3.5 passes again today, because my stubble was more than I like it to be in the evening. As mentioned I did change my XTG, although it did feel indeed more comfortable, I also had the idea it was slightly less effective. Just slightly. This 3.5 pass shave thing is my thing so much I do know.

Of course the brush was FANTASTIC like a 400 should. Great lather from the soap and excellent glide with that added hydration.

I took stock of razors that I have not shaved at least 10 times with. Apart from the fact it was actually a larger list than I anticipated (which goes to show that I really don't need any more razors) I am also determined now to use those razors for June (they are also pretty effective ones) to get my stats up to at least 10 shaves per razor. That will complete the normalised stats for all my razors, hence giving me an even better handle on my shaves while also making sure I use what I have to the extend I can - and should. This is of course Razor Rotation Anxiety in optimum form. Purely based on numbers there are razors that I should probably let go to give them the opportunity of more air time at other homes. But shaving is more than numbers for me, let alone that some of those razors have deep sentimental value in them. And perhaps even more importantly - I really like using pretty much all of my razors and love rotating them around. I even actually think I would enjoy it less if I had fewer razors. Which is a weird thing if I think about it. Ah well, weird is my middle name. I have been called a most unusual CPA too so might as well roll with it!

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[Raven Koenes]

Date	09.06.2024
366 daily shaves	161/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Canadian Tech	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (1)	Razorock 400 Butterscotch
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (9)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Almost Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8.75/10 (BBS-)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

According to my stats the Canadian Tech is one of my most effective razors - and more shaves are needed to fully assess that of course. So I took out the Tech with a fresh new blade. And it was blissful. Easy, smooth, gliding through my morning stubble. Really nice! Looking forward to some more shaves with this one!

The 7 o'clock blade was smoother and more comfortable than I remember. Maybe the pairing with this razor was spot on or my technique has gone up again, but it was very nice. What is also very nice is that the rashness on my upper lip has seemed to tone down a little. I am probably reading too much into this, but I might have pushed the Kai beyond limits causing the burning skin to appear. This morning none of that at least.

Did my usual 3.5 passes again today, because my stubble was more than I like it to be in the evening. As mentioned I did change my XTG, although it did feel indeed more comfortable, I also had the idea it was slightly less effective. Just slightly. This 3.5 pass shave thing is my thing so much I do know.

Of course the brush was FANTASTIC like a 400 should. Great lather from the soap and excellent glide with that added hydration.

I took stock of razors that I have not shaved at least 10 times with. Apart from the fact it was actually a larger list than I anticipated (which goes to show that I really don't need any more razors) I am also determined now to use those razors for June (they are also pretty effective ones) to get my stats up to at least 10 shaves per razor. That will complete the normalised stats for all my razors, hence giving me an even better handle on my shaves while also making sure I use what I have to the extend I can - and should. This is of course Razor Rotation Anxiety in optimum form. Purely based on numbers there are razors that I should probably let go to give them the opportunity of more air time at other homes. But shaving is more than numbers for me, let alone that some of those razors have deep sentimental value in them. And perhaps even more importantly - I really like using pretty much all of my razors and love rotating them around. I even actually think I would enjoy it less if I had fewer razors. Which is a weird thing if I think about it. Ah well, weird is my middle name. I have been called a most unusual CPA too so might as well roll with it!

Enjoy your shave today!

My razor collection is unmanageable for a reasonable rotation. It would be years before I got around to the beginning. It boggles my mind how I got here. I know what I like. I too think about finding homes for all but my favorites.

 

[Phoenixkh]

I think all the razors I have are keepers. I'm going to try out the Schick injectors this evening or tomorrow evening. To speed things up a bit, I'm going to use one of my Mom's and a "new" E2 I just got from eBay... That one turned out to be in far better condition than the photos showed... It's darn near perfect. I didn't really expect that, but was pleasantly surprised.

That will leave the 1953 SuperSpeed birth year and quarter razor as the only remaining razor I haven't used.

On the horizon razors: Only two at the moment... I'm on the waiting list for the Lambda Ares... I certainly don't need it, but I'm hoping I enjoy it as much as the Athena. From all reports, it should fit in well with my others. I'm not sure I'll be able to resist the new offering from Atelier Durdan: the N0.7... I have bronze and/or titanium handles that will work with either a bronze or SS razor head, so I doubt I'll buy a handle and razor stand if and when I do purchase one. That will keep the cost down considerably. It's going to take a few months before we know how the base plates compare to the La Faulx choices. I still have to decide if I'll order a second La Faulx base plate if I get the No.7... The shipping costs are considerable so it makes sense to order them at the same time if I head down that path. Still... the La Faulx Classic works so well for me, I'm not really sure I'd benefit from a + or ++. I did some recent shaves with a Feather ProSuper.... and did see some positive effects with a wider AC blade, esp. with 5 days growth. I still prefer the Kai blades to Feathers overall... but the ProSuper seems to be a pretty remarkable blade.

 

[Eric_75]

I'm on the waiting list for the Lambda Ares... I certainly don't need it, but I'm hoping I enjoy it as much as the Athena.

Looking forward to your thoughts on it, Kim. You know how I feel about mine. <eg>

 

[Phoenixkh]

Looking forward to your thoughts on it, Kim. You know how I feel about mine. <eg>

I wish I knew where the Ares in Marine Bronze is at in Theo's production line... I know he's about to release a limited number of SS and Titanium razors... I don't know if they are being released in a parallel path with the Athenas and Ares or if they will be released first... with the others to follow.

We were seeing new batches come out every third month or so... Athenas one month... then Ares razors the next. I know he's busy so I don't want to bother him with an email. He usually responds to me the same day or the next, due to the time zone difference, but I'll just wait to hear from him when it's time to order.

He is going to do something special for the Ares.... He's going to give it a serial number that would never happen under "normal circumstances". I'll be getting a 24-519 serial number... for my birthday of May 19th... He made sure I understand there will be no 24-518 or 24-520... because he doesn't make over 500 Ares a year at this point. One of my Athenas is 23-019... the closest I could get without being out of sequence, etc. I doubt the 24-519 will matter to anyone but myself, but I think it's a nice touch. <eg> I'm guessing that would probably hurt the resale value, but I don't plan on selling it.. Our sons might... A headache I won't worry about. <eg2>

 

[Guido75]

It boggles my mind how I got here.

I blinked my eyes and boom!

 

[Phoenixkh]

I was fine until I started buying DE razors... There are far fewer choices with AC razors... but DE? There are the Vintage razors... then the modern razors from the older established companies... then the modern CNC designs....

That's why I've stayed away from the GEM format.... I don't need "that" rabbit hole.... And with Vintage razors... I only have a few and am satisfied with that genre... Modern CNC designs seem to be my greatest weakness. Actually.. there is no "seems to be" about it... It's proven fact.

 

[Guido75]

Date	10.06.2024
366 daily shaves	162/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Razorock Game Changer .84P SB	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (2)	Razorock 400 Butterscotch
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (10)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
9.5/10 (Almost Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
9/10 (BBS)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

Delightful shave kickstarting the week. Blade and razor working very well together.

The Game Changer is an amazing razor. Very effective and also very smooth and comfortable. It has positive blade exposure but doesn’t feel that way to me at all.

My Lather King delivered a very nice slick and rich lather leaving my skin well nurtured and prepared for the shave. I am getting the hang of shave stick loading and I think I kind of like it.

Did a combination of my CB Curve and Barbershop patterns along the jaw line. I need further experimentation but in combination with making funny faces I think I was able to get most stubborn stubble down.

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[Guido75]

Date	11.06.2024
366 daily shaves	163/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Razorock Game Changer .84P OC	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (3)	Simpson T3
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (11)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
9.5/10 (Almost Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
9/10 (BBS)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

Spectacularly smooth and super close shave. The Game Changer delivered an almost marble end result. Nice!!

After bringing the safety bar baseplate to 10 shaves I am continuing with the OC baseplate. Last time using it was with a Kai blade churning out a nice BBS. Today it is loaded with the 7 O’Clock Yellow which in my book is much smoother and more comfortable than the Kai blade.

Brush and lather working very well together. I like the T3 knot. It has a good size and heft to it while also being nicely soft. Good backbone.

So, first pass was more or less my usual curved WTG. Second pass I used Gillette Slides on my face and now horizontal slides on my neck. And I lifted my jaw line for a horizontal pass as well - I rarely lift skin. I bullfrog or tug my chin on to get the Ripken rippling effect @thombrogan mentioned yesterday. But that’s it. Today however I just felt like doing it and it was a very effective pass indeed. I will be using this pattern throughout the week to see if I can achieve consistent results. Today is BBS bordering on marble cheeks.

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[Guido75]

Date	12.06.2024
366 daily shaves	164/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Lambda Athena	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (4)	Semogue Cherry Finest
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (12)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
9.25/10 (BBS+)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

An absolutely top notch shave with the Athena! Heading towards marble even though the blade has seen some mileage.

Blade going on 4-5 but I wouldn’t know it. Solid performance so far with consistent results. Less stubble in the morning than with the Kai blade for example. Pairing with the Athena appeared to be less effective following the first pass, but that turned around soon. Although I did allow myself a little bit of extra touch up on the cheeks after ATG.

Did the skin pull thing again during XTG. And another smooth jawline. Excellent. Also inadvertently used the Gillette Slide for my first and pass. It feels like coming home or full circle if you will - but more shaves are necessary to dial this in or dismiss it for an even more effective pass.

My visit to the dermatologist went well today. Two spots on the head got nitrogened. Definitely beats the alternative.

Enjoy your shave today!

 

[Guido75]

Date	13.06.2024
366 daily shaves	165/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Rocket HD500	Gillette 7 O’clock Yellow (5)	FNX Barber Boar
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	BSS #1 (13)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	6/10 (Razor Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
9/10 (BBS)	10/10 (GlideFest)

Notes:

Another great shave with the HD500. This is s really effective and easy to use razor.

I am going near autopilot with this razor, but the results suggest I should remain alert because it is really effective in my regular passes. This is my tenth shave with the HD so it can be included into the overall razor stats. And I already know it’s a highly effective razor. Currently outperforms my Rocca in that sense. In fact I think this is my most effective razor overall only second to the Souplex OC.

Using my giant boar brush Turkish style whipped up a very nice lather in no time. Having a lot of 70mm+ means that lather is flying everywhere, but it’s nice and soft as well. Really enjoyed face lathering today.

I tried to replicate my passes from yesterday, but I am not sure I succeeded in consistently doing so. Nonetheless the Gillette Slide and Barber Pass in combination with a slight skin pull worked miracles again. Missed a trouble spot on the touch up pass, but all in all another great shave with the HD500. Definitely a solid daily razor!

Enjoy your shave today!