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This won't hone out.

Bought a lot from an estate which included an ancient paddle strop that had the drawer stuffed inside the steel jacket. Anyway, it was rusted firm and I bought the lot for the coticule in it anyway and given how uninteresting the other razors in the lot were I let the paddle hold its rattling secret for a few days. Last night I finally prized it open and was met with quite a sight:

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Unfortunately...

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It never got to live its life going by the high water mark on the remnant of the bevel

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And it is a for barbers only stamp so it's even worse. The is one ray of light here and that is the scales are perfect so I can put them on a chopper when I buy one with inevitably ruined scales.
 
That blade looks like a classic case of getting a small chip from hitting the blade on the faucet, cursing a blue streak and then out of frustration smacking the full blade across the sink. Either that or stepping on the blade.
 
That must have been a glorious razor in its day. Looks like someone used it for a screwdriver or a scraper; too bad.
 
There might still be enough steel left to turn it into a penknife. One recently was offered up in the B&B auction.
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
I hope you are pleased with yourself. I went spiraling down a 3 hour ride in the youtube vortex last night..... :lol:
Haha. I totally get that. Once you get started on the you tubes it's hard to quit!
 
I would definitely grind that baby down along that bright line just above the carnage. You'd end up with 5/8" razor made of sweet Sheffield steel.

Of course, Is probably also carve a nice thumbnotch in there while I was at it...But that's just me.:thumbup1:

Seriously, that's not a junker.
 
Put the scales on another razor. Yes.


"Hone" out those chips? Definitely.

This is my vision:
 

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. . . and you didn't even need to photoshop a shiny bevel into the pic.

Pardon the newbie question, but can you actually hone out those chips, and maintain geometry with the spine, or would you have to breadknife and adjust the spine some other way because the "edge" really can't be honed?
 
. . . and you didn't even need to photoshop a shiny bevel into the pic.

Pardon the newbie question, but can you actually hone out those chips, and maintain geometry with the spine, or would you have to breadknife and adjust the spine some other way because the "edge" really can't be honed?

People have different opinions on the importance of bevel angle geometry. Usually for straights it's somewhere around 14-18 degrees maybe? I forget the exact number. But a Feather Super Pro has a final bevel angle of 25 degrees, and nobody ever complains that those aren't sharp enough.

I would rough cut it down to shape, bread knife it to even out the curve, set a "mock bevel" with slightly lifted spine, then set the real bevel.

That razor could be sweet.
 
There is also a hairline. Above the apex of the hairline to the top of the spine is between 5/8 and 6/8. When I drill it off of the scales eventually, you can have it to do as you will. It beats doing the devil's work with gold dollars
 
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