Synthetic 1.5 bevel setter convince me.

So I got a gift card and was thinking about using it for a 1.5 syn bevel setter. I just have been a hold out so long now. I use coticule or botan to set all my bevels. I have around 25 razors mostly old wedges. Most are in use and don't need a bevel set cause i did it on naturals. I have one or two i am working on that will.

I have flip flopped on this so long now and always just stuck with the natural.
So I ask you to convince me why i should step over to the other side?

Why do you need convincing? IMO synthetics are the king of bevel setting. I prefer naturals for midrage and final edge work.

With that said the chosera/pro 1k is my choice and although i've never used it the shapton pro 2k is also very highly regarded. These stones are pretty much 'benchmark' stones for bevel setting and are used and have been evaluated by enough people that you don't have to second guess your purchase.

Again, in my opinion, botan/coticule to truly SET a bevel takes far too long. The synth is where it's at!

Brooksie967 said:

Why do you need convincing? IMO synthetics are the king of bevel setting. I prefer naturals for midrage and final edge work.

With that said the chosera/pro 1k is my choice and although i've never used it the shapton pro 2k is also very highly regarded. These stones are pretty much 'benchmark' stones for bevel setting and are used and have been evaluated by enough people that you don't have to second guess your purchase.

Again, in my opinion, botan/coticule to truly SET a bevel takes far too long. The synth is where it's at!

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So how much faster are they? Would shapton 1.5k or 2k be a better choice? I have always liked naturals due to the fine scratch pattern which even though it was more at the beginning work it was less at the middle and end.

A Shapton Kuromaku 1.5k costs $41 on Amazon (the US Shapton Pro costs significantly more and is identical), is fast and is pretty resistant to dishing, and will cut a clean bevel. A DMT D8F or D8E costs $53, is even faster, will never dish, and will cut a clean bevel (frankly far nicer than it has any business being for its rated grit and how fast it works). So if you want a fast bevel setter there's no reason not to pull the trigger.

Personally I have had great success going D8F -> coti slurry -> tomo slurry on a finisher, you get to enjoy some time on stones with pleasant feedback but the overall progression doesn't take very long and the results are very consistent - not too long ago I did a 1/4 hollow Torrey, a half-hollow Morley, a Friedrich Baurmann "Comfort" extra full hollow and a Henckels Friodur bellied full hollow on the same day with this progression and all four shaved very well afterwards despite the different grinds and steels.

I love my synthetyc bevell setters I have suehiro deluxe 1200 wich is rebranded , a suehiro 1-3 K , silicon carbide hard oilstones 800 grit and a 3 k Kai
all of them work fast and leave a fine edge I imagine the new naniwa or shaptons will perform much better

The fact that you're curious about synthetic bevel setting means you must get a couple of different ones on the way! I just picked up a Sharpton pro 1.5k and I like the feedback from it a little better than the Chosera 1k.

Shapton Pro 1K, 1.5K and 2K are all foolproof bevel setters, IMO. They are quite inexpensive in this grit range as well.

Ok. I did it. 1.5K shapton. I won't know till I try. Everyone seems to love their synthetic bevel setters. It was a gift card so best time to do it. Won't bother me if it is under used. Any difference in techniques from naturals to synthetics for bevel setting besides time?
I will stil use Botan for my special blades. I just feel when it is over 220 years old or so it should get an extra special gental treatment.

rideon66 said:

Ok. I did it. 1.5K shapton. .... Any difference in techniques from naturals to synthetics for bevel setting besides time?

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Just be easy starting out its a pretty fast cutter. I lapped mine right out of the box, but you may not have to. Check it. Shapton Pros are excellent synths. I have six. As per Shapton's site, don't soak them for long periods, they are splash & go. Have fun!

Please post results if you get a chance, thanks.

Ok it arrived today. Does it matter which side I use. Printed side or nonprinted side? Also haven't checked yet, but do they normallly need lapping or are they usually good to go out of the box?

rideon66 said:

Ok it arrived today. Does it matter which side I use. Printed side or nonprinted side? Also haven't checked yet, but do they normallly need lapping or are they usually good to go out of the box?

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I would lap it just because. I would also hone on the non-printed side to maintain the brand markings in case you decide to sell or trade down the road. Have fun!

rideon66 said:

Any difference in techniques from naturals to synthetics for bevel setting besides time?
treatment.

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Do 20-30 edge leading strokes, firm pressure, or until you feel the triangle has been formed. End with 10-20 edge trailing strokes before progressing to the next hone.

wetshaveyyc said:

Do 20-30 edge leading strokes, firm pressure, or until you feel the triangle has been formed. End with 10-20 edge trailing strokes before progressing to the next hone.

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Does that not create a burr or wire edge? Never tried it but it sounds like a lot of strokes.

Hey is all this info still the same for old sheffield eedhe blades? I forget most are talking about hollow ground.

rideon66 said:

Hey is all this info still the same for old sheffield eedhe blades? I forget most are talking about hollow ground.

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My tablet and this site don't get along. Should say old Sheffield wedge blades.

kelbro said:

Does that not create a burr or wire edge? Never tried it but it sounds like a lot of strokes.

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It does, and purposely. Keeping that steel intact guarantees that you have your triangle as you move to the next hone, rather than microchips. It will all go away on the first one or two strokes on the next stone up, so don't worry. Continue this pattern to your polisher.

wetshaveyyc said:

It does, and purposely. Keeping that steel intact guarantees that you have your triangle as you move to the next hone, rather than microchips. It will all go away on the first one or two strokes on the next stone up, so don't worry. Continue this pattern to your polisher.

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Interesting concept. If I see microchips, I joint the edge on the next stone in the progression.

This is probably too little too late but I finally had a chance to use my Shapton Pro 1.5k and I have to say that I greatly prefer the feedback it offers to the other popular 1k synthetic. I'm glad I have it for sure.