I think I'm going to glue my Naniwa SP 8k to a piece of marble tile to keep it flatter. Checking the stone through a honing session with a straight edge and as it is drying shows it moving around quite a bit through what I suspect is uneven water absorption. I don't soak my stones, just spray and go. I think the thinness of the SP stones contributes to the warping. It's easy enough to keep them flat by lapping but I attribute 90% of the wear on the stone to this continuous lapping.
Naniwa stabilization
- Thread starter bluesman 7
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I have wondered whether getting both the front and back wet would help, though I have used the stone resting on a damp pad and I thought that it just made things worse. There is so much variability in water absorption that that approach doesn't appeal to me.
The other advantage of gluing the stone on to a substrate is that it would allow using the stone down to nothing.
Yes, I noticed that the first time I started using the Naniwa's.
I glued my 12k to a glass tile.
View attachment 590398
I glued my 12k to a glass tile.
View attachment 590398
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Could not follow the link drifter. How successful was it?
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Does anyone have any real-time experience showing the wet-dry variation is a problem?
Forget about your hone flatness and worry about your razor geometry, smiles, frowns, upsweeps, warps, bends, etc.
I don't mean to sound dismissive, but I'm a retired engineer and cannot believe they'd market a waterstone that shifted enough to matter under any reasonable use.
If whetstone flatness matters to the max, then razor edge straightness, in three dimensions matters more. IOW, worrying about hone flatness to the extent of underestimating razor smiles, frowns, warps, bends etc is even more .. Illlogical.
Forget about the hone flatness, worry about your razor geometry. Learn how to hone to the razor.
Cheers, Steve
Forget about your hone flatness and worry about your razor geometry, smiles, frowns, upsweeps, warps, bends, etc.
I don't mean to sound dismissive, but I'm a retired engineer and cannot believe they'd market a waterstone that shifted enough to matter under any reasonable use.
If whetstone flatness matters to the max, then razor edge straightness, in three dimensions matters more. IOW, worrying about hone flatness to the extent of underestimating razor smiles, frowns, warps, bends etc is even more .. Illlogical.
Forget about the hone flatness, worry about your razor geometry. Learn how to hone to the razor.
Cheers, Steve
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I have the 20mm stones and haven't seen this.
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Have you checked with a straight edge before during and after use?
It may well be that the 20mm stones are more stable, which reinforces my idea of gluing the 10mm stones to something.
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I have the 20mm 3k, and yes there way more stable.
Yes, they stay true.
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This is good news. That tells me that effectively making my 10mm stones thicker will help me keep them to my standards of flatness with less lapping.
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Thanks drifter. Did this solve the problem? Any ill effects?
Solved the problem for me, you still have to lap it every time though, but not as much.
If I had to buy the 12k again, I'd get the 20mm.
If I had to buy the 12k again, I'd get the 20mm.
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- #15
Thanks
All things considered the 20mm stones do appear to be a much wiser purchase.
Just as an aside, all of these issues are much less of a problem with my 12k than they are with my 8k. I don't know if that is due to composition difference, the longer periods of time spent on the 8k, or just happenstance.
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I have two SP stones - neither moved at all during or after use. After I had them for a while I glued them together to make a combo 3/5k.
Some people were saying their stones were 'warping' but mine never had an issue. I do wet them down under running water first - both sides. I also lapped both sides and all edges first. Currently - I usually dress the working surfaces once before use, once after. Not exactly a 'lapping' per-se, just a few passes on 400x w/d, or maybe a very worn DMT. I usually clear the stone with a Chosera 'rubber' Nagura during use, fairly often actually.
Some people were saying their stones were 'warping' but mine never had an issue. I do wet them down under running water first - both sides. I also lapped both sides and all edges first. Currently - I usually dress the working surfaces once before use, once after. Not exactly a 'lapping' per-se, just a few passes on 400x w/d, or maybe a very worn DMT. I usually clear the stone with a Chosera 'rubber' Nagura during use, fairly often actually.
I wonder if the arid climate in Vegas has any thing to do with it? Maybe they drying out to fast in my garage, it feels like 150 degrees in there.
Rapid drying is definitely one cause of this type of warping/movement and sometimes crazing or cracking.
These types of stones should dry out slowly - evenly.
I usually dry them on their sides, with small bits of wood to keep that edge 'up' off the bench or whatever. My parts boxes have ridges in the top, they work perfectly to let air get in underneath. I'll move the stone around while it dries too, flip sides, etc.
These types of stones should dry out slowly - evenly.
I usually dry them on their sides, with small bits of wood to keep that edge 'up' off the bench or whatever. My parts boxes have ridges in the top, they work perfectly to let air get in underneath. I'll move the stone around while it dries too, flip sides, etc.
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Well, things dry very quickly here in Colorado, maybe that's why I'm seeing so much movement. We had a very wet spring this year and it did seem to be much less of an issue then.
I cut a couple pieces of marble tile to bond them to yesterday, maybe I'll glue up the 8k today.
I cut a couple pieces of marble tile to bond them to yesterday, maybe I'll glue up the 8k today.
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- #20
This worked very well. I plan on doing the same to my 12k which was much less problematic than my 8k.
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