Honing with what I got

daverojo77 · Feb 28, 2015

Hi all, got a few razors I want to use after getting them in shaving shape. Currently I have some stones etc that I can use but wanted to get feedback on what best combination of stones or other stuff out of what I have that I can use to get a great edge. I know technique is important here but while I aquire the skills I want to make sure Im using the right tools.
i have the following:
1200 DMT
600 DMT - I use this for mostly for kitchen knifes when they are really dull.
6k king super finisher
lapping film (red and green)
balsa wood with green on one side red on the other
leather paddle strop
1k king

obviously I won't use all but if you can point me in the rit sequence I would greatly appreciate

Sharpchef · Feb 28, 2015

I would use

DMT1200
King 6k
Green Lapping Film
Change your honing direction a little, to see if you deleted scratches from previous grit.
Leather paddle Strop (with very much strokes).

Greets Sebastian.

slant81 · Feb 28, 2015

Here we go. Coti Coti Coti..

daverojo77 · Feb 28, 2015

Sorry no Coti I'm just trying to make use of what I have in hand but thanks

Zach · Feb 28, 2015

slant81 said:
Here we go. Coti Coti Coti..

+100! I’m still figuring out the etiquette on these “how should I hone” type threads where it seems like people are opened-minded to start with whatever kind of honing setup. I just want to say “coti coti coti!” I’ve only used coticules, but I’ve tried edges from other stones, and it just seems like coticules are inexpensive and relatively fool-proof. It would be one thing if you didn’t like a coti edge, but I think people owe it to themselves to give the process a try. (Don’t mean to derail the thread, but I’ve been thinking about this for a while.)

slant81 · Feb 28, 2015

oh no that's not what I meant, I was just saying that that's probably what you're going to get for an answer because every time I have a honing question, 90 percent of the people just say get a coti. I ended up just ordering one to see what the fuss is about. I'm a newbie as well, I would love to answer your question but I I think you probably know more than I do.

JBjunior · Feb 28, 2015

slant81 said:
oh no that's not what I meant, I was just saying that that's probably what you're going to get for an answer because every time I have a honing question, 90 percent of the people just say get a coti. I ended up just ordering one to see what the fuss is about. I'm a newbie as well, I would love to answer your question but I I think you probably know more than I do.

Not sure if there is a question in this post or not, but get a coti.

On a serious note for the OP, I am brand new to honing but I have the DMT 1200 (duosharp along with a 325 for lapping). I have seen people that love it or hate it, most of the complaints are that it takes off a lot and leaves deep scratches that are hard to get out. I am in the market for a Chosera 1K, Shapton 1K, or Shapton 1.5, I think, but will use the DMT 1200 for the time being. I have seen people that like the King 1K that you have and complain that it is slow, from what I remember, when compared to something like the Chosera (or its new name). Point being, how do you like the DMT 1200 vs the King 1K? Whichever you like better.... start there.

daverojo77 · Feb 28, 2015

Josh I think I like the king 1k better. I'm really not sure it matters because what happens after setting the bevel is probably where the selections will affect the shave the most. Just wanted to get some opinions

alpster · Feb 28, 2015

Sharpchef said:
I would use

DMT1200
King 6k
Green Lapping Film
Change your honing direction a little, to see if you deleted scratches from previous grit.
Leather paddle Strop (with very much strokes).

I agree with Sebastian, but I would insert the red film (3um) before the green (1um). A 6K to 1um is a pretty big jump. Take your time and get a magnifier to look at the bevel as you progress.

Zach · Feb 28, 2015

JBjunior said:
On a serious note for the OP, I am brand new to honing but I have the DMT 1200 (duosharp along with a 325 for lapping). I have seen people that love it or hate it, most of the complaints are that it takes off a lot and leaves deep scratches that are hard to get out. I am in the market for a Chosera 1K, Shapton 1K, or Shapton 1.5, I think, but will use the DMT 1200 for the time being. I have seen people that like the King 1K that you have and complain that it is slow, from what I remember, when compared to something like the Chosera (or its new name). Point being, how do you like the DMT 1200 vs the King 1K? Whichever you like better.... start there.

One thing I’ve heard you can do to avoid scratching your coti with a new DMT plate is to take a screwdriver” and “lap” the DMT by rubbing it back and forth over the plate until you get all the larger particles off. Seems like that would “lap” the screwdriver more than anything, but I plan on doing that when I get a DMT plate when in the very distant future I have to lap my coticule again. (Did it with a borrowed DMT plate the first time.)

JBjunior · Feb 28, 2015

Thanks Zach, since I just got a "new" coti I will likely be lapping it tomorrow. Congrats on your recent coti success from your other thread, hopefully I can follow in your footsteps.

Dave, I hear ya. Good luck with replies and finding out what works best for you.

bluesman 7 · Feb 28, 2015

alpster said:
I agree with Sebastian, but I would insert the red film (3um) before the green (1um). A 6K to 1um is a pretty big jump. Take your time and get a magnifier to look at the bevel as you progress.

^^ This. Maybe use a little lather on the DMT before going to the 6k to help make that jump.

daverojo77 · Feb 28, 2015

So what like a 3k then? LOL, this is my attempt to buy buy crap...

EL Alamein · Feb 28, 2015

Sharpchef said:
I would use

DMT1200
King 6k
Green Lapping Film
Change your honing direction a little, to see if you deleted scratches from previous grit.
Leather paddle Strop (with very much strokes).

Greets Sebastian.

+1

daverojo77 · Mar 1, 2015

Gents,
I took an old Torrey I found on Ebay that for whatever reason could never get a decent shave on it and did the following. I basically have taken tips I have learned over the years from you guys in here and some videos on you tube.

1200DMT - started back and forth then X stopping in back motion
King 6K - I didn't spend too much time here just cleaning with strop motion. A soft slice or 2 through a soft piece of wood like in the carter videos and back a couple times on the 6K. Noticed the razor popping hairs off my arm.
3 µm film - spent some time here but not too much.
1 µm film- Probably should have spend more time here because I noticed I didn't get that polish on the edge.
Leather Paddle strop - spent a good amount of time here as suggested

All in all best while not perfect best job I have done in honing. It shaved like one of my Whipped Dog razors but not quite like my SRD razor.

Keep practicing I will...Thanks!

Gamma · Mar 1, 2015

The greatest impact on the shaving edge occurs at bevel set, not after.
IMO - most rough, or not smooth enough, shaves are the result of a poorly done bevel that someone tried to fix with extra work on higher grit stones. Bevel refinement continues for a while though, it's not 'just' a 1k event.
But - if you achieve max on the 1k, the rest usually falls in line quickly.

bluesman 7 · Mar 1, 2015

daverojo77 said:
Gents,
I took an old Torrey I found on Ebay that for whatever reason could never get a decent shave on it and did the following. I basically have taken tips I have learned over the years from you guys in here and some videos on you tube.

1200DMT - started back and forth then X stopping in back motion
King 6K - I didn't spend too much time here just cleaning with strop motion. A soft slice or 2 through a soft piece of wood like in the carter videos and back a couple times on the 6K. Noticed the razor popping hairs off my arm.
3 µm film - spent some time here but not too much.
1 µm film- Probably should have spend more time here because I noticed I didn't get that polish on the edge.
Leather Paddle strop - spent a good amount of time here as suggested

All in all best while not perfect best job I have done in honing. It shaved like one of my Whipped Dog razors but not quite like my SRD razor.

Keep practicing I will...Thanks!

I would expect to spend quite a bit of time on the 6k.

Sharpchef · Mar 1, 2015

You can skip the 3my or the 6k hone, they should be equal in grit.
After a good bevel set the most work is done. Spend a little more time on your 6k or the 3my paper.
You can also smooth down the edge with proper linen/jeans stropping, before the leather.

Greets Sebastian.

SliceOfLife · Mar 1, 2015

alpster said:
I agree with Sebastian, but I would insert the red film (3um) before the green (1um). A 6K to 1um is a pretty big jump. Take your time and get a magnifier to look at the bevel as you progress.

Arguably the 6k should be finer than 3um film. It may not be in practice (Kings 6k isn't especially well regarded), but I wouldn't assume the 3um would refine past a 6k without testing it.

SliceOfLife · Mar 1, 2015

bluesman 7 said:
I would expect to spend quite a bit of time on the 6k.

This.

That's going to be by FAR your biggest jump, and most time needed. The King 6k is brutally slow for a synth. I would actually go 1200DMT to the 3um film and skip the king, personally. That's Seraphs old progression. I think he swapped the DMT for a Chosera now, but 1.2>3um>1um. Then he does some other stuff, paper-under-1um or some pasted stropping or something. But he can attest to how effective the first three steps (what you'd be doing) are, certainly.

Search

Honing with what I got

daverojo77

Sharpchef

slant81

daverojo77

Zach

slant81

JBjunior

daverojo77

alpster

Zach

JBjunior

bluesman 7

daverojo77

EL Alamein

daverojo77

Gamma

bluesman 7

Sharpchef

SliceOfLife

SliceOfLife

Similar threads