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Stahly razor basic lubrication

Earlier this week, someone asked if I would post a photo tutorial on lubricating the Stahly razor. Here it is!


This is the basic Stahly razor in ready to shave form.. $Stahly_02a.jpg
Next is the standard breakdown familiar to Stahly owners ready for a blade change... I have also posted here a shot of the Stahly razor base, as it clearly shows how the safety bar system is free floating from end to end, while it is securely held in position by stainless leaf springs against side to side motion. This allows the heavy body, blade, top cover, and baseplate to freely vibrate in a micro-slicing fashion, while the safety bar maintains accurate blade angle with your skin. Pretty well thought out, and even though it's an expensive design to manufacture, it tends to stand up to decades of use very well...
$Stahly_03a.jpg$Stahly_12a.jpg

To lubricate a Stahly without drama, there are two easy screw joints to undo. Use standard pliers with either soft leather, or several layers of paper toweling to protect the outer finish. I posted photos of the threaded joints opened a few turns so you can see where to grip, and where to avoid. Never use force against the mechanism itself, as you can break things, and it is never required.... unscrewing the tapered tip of the razor reveals the eccentric half wheel that causes vibration. It is a single component, and it cannot be installed incorrectly. Don't sweat it... The shaft it rides on is built into the tapered tip you unscrewed to get to the eccentric wheel. It's easy to put back together, as there are no springs or small parts fighting you... Spray WD40 into the open top end of the razor, wind it a turn or two, spray more, and then reassemble the top end when the motor runs down... Don't tighten too much, as it's not needed.

Next, go to the bottom of the razor, and unscrew the winding grip. It's just a spring cover, and I have included photos that show the threaded joint so you know where to grip the main body to avoid stressing the drivetrain. Any excess oil you applied at the top of the shaft will be in the spring cover when you remove it. Wipe it out, spritz the spring with a shot of WD40 if it isn't already soaked, and screw the cover back in place. That's it. Ten minutes every six Months, and your Stahly will run like a Swiss Watch. If yours has occasional jumps and jolts as it winds down, it's more likely than not that the gear train in the central part of the shaft is starved for oil. The drill I just described will fix that issue ( I'll post the photos of the spring cover in a quick follow up post, as I can only post 5 pictures here)...

$Stahly_13a.jpg$Stahly_14a.jpg
 
$Stahly_17a.jpgHere are the photos of the winding end of the Stahly to complete the lubrication tutorial...
$Stahly_07a.jpg$Stahly_04a.jpg$Stahly_05a.jpg$Stahly_06a.jpg

Enjoy!
 
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There is a way to do it that doesn't involve unscrewing anything.
You place it in a container of lubricant and heat it, allowing air to escape, and then cooling it so that the vacuum sucks oil in. Repeat as necessary.
This method was developed by member Radar O'Reilly
 
View attachment 271819Here are the photos of the winding end of the Stahly to complete the lubrication tutorial...
View attachment 271815View attachment 271816View attachment 271817View attachment 271818

Enjoy!

There is a way to do it that doesn't involve unscrewing anything.
You place it in a container of lubricant and heat it, allowing air to escape, and then cooling it so that the vacuum sucks oil in. Repeat as necessary.
This method was developed by member Radar O'Reilly

2 great posts in one...both good options. Thank you gentleman :thumbup:
 
There is a way to do it that doesn't involve unscrewing anything.
You place it in a container of lubricant and heat it, allowing air to escape, and then cooling it so that the vacuum sucks oil in. Repeat as necessary.
This method was developed by member Radar O'Reilly
Any particular oil?
 
The advantage of opening the razor is that you get to remove any water droplets from inside, and flush out old oil/wear products. Any way that works is fine with me.... I would avoid using a viscous oil, as things tend to move quickly inside the razor. I just flush it with WD40 spray lube, and put a few drops of machine oil in the hole for the eccentric shaft at the top end.
 
The advantage of opening the razor is that you get to remove any water droplets from inside, and flush out old oil/wear products. Any way that works is fine with me.... I would avoid using a viscous oil, as things tend to move quickly inside the razor. I just flush it with WD40 spray lube, and put a few drops of machine oil in the hole for the eccentric shaft at the top end.

Both methods may be great maintenance solutions. I think if you not mechanically inclined then boiling may benefit better. I may take mine apart....
 
Both methods may be great maintenance solutions. I think if you not mechanically inclined then boiling may benefit better. I may take mine apart....

Don't be shy about the minimal tear down I walked through. You can't screw anything up, as there are no trick reassembly steps involved. Although everything in the razor is designed for a wet environment, I don't think boiling was envisioned when it was designed. Not that I wouldn't ever do that, but there is at least one important felt washer/seal that really prefers oil to boiling water...

Don't sweat popping the top and base caps. You get to see how healthy your razor really is (you can see metallic sludge, if it's there), and allows you to flush out decades of old oil and wear sludge (boiling does not clean the incredibly complex gear train. It only sucks in more oil to displace internal water residue that boiled into steam). Be gentle, and be happy. Search this site for a Stahly complete tear down to see what I was careful to keep you safe from opening. It really is a masterpiece of engineering inside the main handle body, and it deserves a good cleaning with fresh oil now and then. The drill I described does exactly that in ten minutes time. Adding fresh oil to old bad oil isn't good long term care, and takes longer!
 
Don't be shy about the minimal tear down I walked through. You can't screw anything up, as there are no trick reassembly steps involved. Although everything in the razor is designed for a wet environment, I don't think boiling was envisioned when it was designed. Not that I wouldn't ever do that, but there is at least one important felt washer/seal that really prefers oil to boiling water...

Don't sweat popping the top and base caps. You get to see how healthy your razor really is (you can see metallic sludge, if it's there), and allows you to flush out decades of old oil and wear sludge (boiling does not clean the incredibly complex gear train. It only sucks in more oil to displace internal water residue that boiled into steam). Be gentle, and be happy. Search this site for a Stahly complete tear down to see what I was careful to keep you safe from opening. It really is a masterpiece of engineering inside the main handle body, and it deserves a good cleaning with fresh oil now and then. The drill I described does exactly that in ten minutes time. Adding fresh oil to old bad oil isn't good long term care, and takes longer!

Jim, thanks for the warning/alert on the felt washers/seals...its important since they may be affected by the hot water method. I think that i will not use the boiling method . I am too in love with my STAHLY.
 
Thanks, JimK, for the pictures and explanation for lubrication maintenance on a Stahly Live. I snagged one on eBay a couple of months ago, and have been most impressed with the shave the head gives! After first receiving it, I used it a couple of times with its windup handle. But because the movement only lasted for a couple of minutes and proved to be a bit awkward (dangerously slippery) to rewind in the middle of a shave I put the head on a ss iKon handle. I've been absolutely amazed at the close shave it gives me and without a single knick...ever! In fact, it's so smooth I almost feel no blade (Super Iridiums).

Since seeing your post I did the WD-40 maintenance on the original handle today. Winding it is easier and something I wasn't expecting, the vibrating action has increased to 4 minutes. So I paired the windup handle back with the Stahly head and will give the original setup another try tomorrow to see how it compares with using the iKon handle. Either way, I LOVE the Stahly head! In addition to the Stahly my current razor rotation includes a Mergress long handle, a Merkur 34C HD, and an EJ89...fortunately I find the Super Iridiums combine well with all these.
 
Thanks, JimK, for the pictures and explanation for lubrication maintenance on a Stahly Live. I snagged one on eBay a couple of months ago, and have been most impressed with the shave the head gives! After first receiving it, I used it a couple of times with its windup handle. But because the movement only lasted for a couple of minutes and proved to be a bit awkward (dangerously slippery) to rewind in the middle of a shave I put the head on a ss iKon handle. I've been absolutely amazed at the close shave it gives me and without a single knick...ever! In fact, it's so smooth I almost feel no blade (Super Iridiums).

Since seeing your post I did the WD-40 maintenance on the original handle today. Winding it is easier and something I wasn't expecting, the vibrating action has increased to 4 minutes. So I paired the windup handle back with the Stahly head and will give the original setup another try tomorrow to see how it compares with using the iKon handle. Either way, I LOVE the Stahly head! In addition to the Stahly my current razor rotation includes a Mergress long handle, a Merkur 34C HD, and an EJ89...fortunately I find the Super Iridiums combine well with all these.
I used my Stahly all week,, love that shave. The head feels so live. It feels so springy.
 
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