Newbies Ask a Question: Should I Try a More Aggressive Razor?

This past week I have received a few e-mails that go along these lines.
I thought I would post this question since it seems to be an area of concern.

First, if you are shaving for only a few weeks the odds are good that your technique has not sufficiently developed. The first thing to do is to work on your blade angle and get that right. As a new shaver it is often difficult to maintain the proper blade angle throughout the shave - particularly around the neck and mustache area. Here is a good post that will help you on blade angle.

Only until your blade angle and pressure on the blade and correct, should you even consider going to a more aggressive razor. A BBS shave is not something you should be demanding at that stage of your development. It may come in time - but the odds are good that an aggressive razor may result in nicks, cuts, and irritation rather than a BBS shave. Settle for a smooth, clean shave without any irritation, nicks, or cuts.

For some reason, some new DE shavers seem to think it is right of manliness passage to use an aggressive razor. As for me, I try to use the mildest razor I can that will give me a good shave.

I would like to hear some opinions from others in an effort to help these new DE shavers.

For some reason, some new DE shavers seem to think it is right of manliness passage to use an aggressive razor. As for me, I try to use the mildest razor I can that will give me a good shave.

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The first thought goes to a ton a folks and I agree wholheartedly with your overall asessment. I use an Gillette adjustable set on 9 and an R89 (im a two razor shaver btw) and CONSISTENTLY achieve perfect BBS with cuts or weepers. My experimentation with a manly razor was a dismal failure in terms of comfort and Ive been doin it for 40 years.

Newbies: Face lather, mild razor, good prep, sharp blade, go slow

The only aggressive razor I tried was a Slim on a higher setting, but I knew immediately it wasn't for me. The whole point of muli-pass shaves is to slowly reduce the beard, right? I can do that with a mild razor, spare my face, and enjoy some extra passes. I can do an ATG pass if I want to get a really close shave, which is rare.

I have been DE shaving for maybe a couple months. RAD and my quest for BBS got the best of me and I bought a Merkur slant to try to get closer. It worked, but it also shed a lot of blood. I ended up cleaning up quite a bit after the shave, and got tired of that after a couple weeks and then back to the Merkur HD. Now I am nearly BBS, and with no blood at all with the HD. I think the experience might have helped me focus more on technique, and I may try the slant again in the future, but right now I am just working with the HD trying to get technique perfected. There are so many variables I am still trying to figure out which don't include equipment, like number of passes, days between shaves, how often you shower and moisturize, etc.

I'm really new at this and I've picked up two razors to start. One is a 1930's Gillette "new" open comb. The other is a plain TTO (not sure of the brand since it has no logos etc). It is closed comb btw. Which would be better to learn with? I'm not sure of the aggressiveness of the Gillette, but I found it in the original case for $10 and didn't wanna pass it up. Any info would be appreciated.

It is all about the angle of the blade against the face.

Mild razors have a very shallow "sweet spot" (correct angle) because very little of the blade is exposed between the safety bar and razor blade.

Aggressive razors have a very wide "sweet spot" (correct angle) because a lot of blade is exposed between the safety bar and razor blade.

It does not matter which razor you are using as long as you keep it in the "sweet spot". I did a head to head match up between the R41 2011 model and the Gillette Tech. These two razors would have to be considered at the absurd extreme of the razor aggression scale.

I was able to get BBS shaves from both razors: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/284877

For a new shaver the easiest way to stay in the "sweet spot" is to lock your wrist and elbow and move your entire arm from the shoulder. This takes away the option to flick your wrist which changes the blade angle during the stroke because as your wrist bends the angle of the razor changes with the movement of your wrist.

It feels odd at first to jerk your whole arm when shaving but if you are a new shaver this is the easiest way to shave without changing the blade angle in mid stroke.

Also take short rapid cutting strokes not long slow mowing stokes. It is easier to maintain the correct blade angle using a short rapid movement than a long slow motion covering a great distance.

Once you have been shaving for close to half a century you will be able to shave without even thinking about blade angle. Until then, work on developing consistency.

Great post, and a few questions if you guys don't mind (I feel like I'm always asking something, and I've been lurking here and posting for a few months now)

Relatively new as well (although I love this site: I always swing in during downtime at work) and I was curious as to what makes a Razor more 'aggressive'. Does it open the angle of the blade more? And what are some non-aggressive razors? Edit : never mind, I see a answer to it above. The thought of a lot of open razor like that makes me think I might stick with the less aggressive razor.

I currently have the Edwin Jagger DE89 that I use with Feather blades, which, from what you guys have said, is a milder razor but with sharp blades. If I had a more aggressive razor, would I be better off using a less sharp blade?

This will sound stupid, but can someone explain to me the mechanics behind the adjustable DE razors, IE like the one I imagine WildAlaska uses? I saw one at a GoodWill last week out with the Wife, but I wasn't sure if I would butcher myself so I held off on picking it up. Plus when I looked at it the Wife gave me one of those "Why do you need another razor speeches?" : it wasn't the cost but just the extra stuff in the bathroom we share.

Thanks.

nycalling said:

I was curious as to what makes a Razor more 'aggressive'. Does it open the angle of the blade more? And what are some non-aggressive razors?

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These two Wiki articles will explain and list razors from mild to agressive

http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Aggressiveness

http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap

nycalling said:

This will sound stupid, but can someone explain to me the mechanics behind the adjustable DE razors, IE like the one I imagine WildAlaska uses?

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An adjustable razor allows you to adjust/change the blade gab from mild to aggressive

the mildest razor made is the Gillette super adjustable (the black handle adjustable called the Black Beauty by most). Set on 1 (lowest setting) it is milder than any other razor you can find. but you can move the settings up to expose more blade.

nycalling said:

I saw one at a GoodWill last week out with the Wife, but I wasn't sure if I would butcher myself so I held off on picking it up. Plus when I looked at it the Wife gave me one of those "Why do you need another razor speeches?" : it wasn't the cost but just the extra stuff in the bathroom we share.

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The first thing to remember is "all razors look the same" to SWMBO. If you only "keep 2 razors out", you can have as many razors as you want as long as you only "keep 2 razors out"

Just don't ever let her find your "stash" otherwise there is no amount of "explaining" you can do that will get you out of hot water.

I am a big fan of adjustable razors (I have a slim, FB, and two Mergresses). As Turtle said, the adjustable allows you to adjust the setting to fit your beard. However, the usual caveat is that newbies shouldn't play with the adjustments!

All I can say is listen to Jim & Turtle. They pretty much nail the whole issue. I too am a fan of adjustable razors and favor the Futur & Mergress (modified Merkur Progess). As it was pointed out, nothing is more important than developing your technique. I have a 22 year old son who can now use anything I throw at him and is probably ready to correct the errors in Mantic's technique (just a few tweaks).

Face&Head said:

All I can say is listen to Jim & Turtle. They pretty much nail the whole issue. I too am a fan of adjustable razors and favor the Futur & Mergress (modified Merkur Progess). As it was pointed out, nothing is more important than developing your technique. I have a 22 year old son who can now use anything I throw at him and is probably ready to correct the errors in Mantic's technique (just a few tweaks).

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+1.

My dos centavos are that for some people a BBS shave is simply unattainable without bloodshed or irritation. It doesn't mean you are doing something wrong, or aren't using an aggresive enough razor. Getting a BBS takes a lot of variables (skin type, hair coarseness, lather, brush, razor and blade) clicking at the same time, and often-times it is not possible. If you get a DFS or CCS with no nicks, weepers or irritation you are getting a much better shave than the vast majority of the world!

My two favorite DE razors so far have turned out to be a mild fat handle tech and an aggressive New.

Either way, all of my razors and blades improved as my technique improved.

I go both ways Razor wise...I have a tendency to go mild when time constricted...buffing or clean up behind a straight...
I go aggressive when I have time for the RITUAL OF THE LATHER...with the Face Blood Sacrifice

turtle said:

The first thing to remember is "all razors look the same" to SWMBO. If you only "keep 2 razors out", you can have as many razors as you want as long as you only "keep 2 razors out"

Just don't ever let her find your "stash" otherwise there is no amount of "explaining" you can do that will get you out of hot water.

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personally I did lots of research on here and asked fellow de shavers I know. I thought I needed a new razor at first but then realized "It's all in the master who weilds the blade". So I learned to get a good shave with a derby and my rather light merkur classic which I inherited.
My daily razor is now a edwin jagger. I love the heavy handle weight towards the top and it helps me along BUT I never would have imrpoved my technique had it not been for the merkur so it's a keeper as I still enjoy shaving with it.
also, many noobs such as myself at first underestimate two things:
1. technique (it may seem simple but it's not)
2. razor brands- no two razor blades are alike, no two faces are alike and no two hands will wield the same blade alike.

something I've learned along the way. Oh and adjusting technique with soaps and creams. each has it's own way of loading and lathering. took me a bit of personal experience and reading to understand this one.