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When was this Pears stick made?

Gents, I was bold enough to snap up a Pears Transparent Soap Shaving Stick from an ebay BIN listing. It arrived today, and appears to be unused. While I think about whether or not to try it out, I want to establish its age as closely as possible. I would welcome your advice. Shall we start with some photos?



Pears was famous for their advertising campaigns, which ought to help. The first known Pears sticks were advertised in 1849 and were apparently the first shave sticks ever. By 1885 Pears was illustrating their ads. For example http://www.europeana.eu/portal/record/92037/C11E1C8DDB6555916FCDA8005F7BC21BD4586864.html shows a red tube with the "A & F Pears" signature and a price of one shilling. Later ads quoted 12d, which was the same as one shilling but might have sounded cheaper. Ads that specifically picture the stick seem to thin out after the turn of the century, in favor of the famous brand-oriented ads for Pears. But the Pears signature still appears in a 1907 USA trademark registration for the shave stick, found at http://books.google.com/books?id=yLAAgp4QsAwC&pg=PA2505.

Around 1918 Pears introduced a white, opaque shave stick as part of a new "Golden Series" product line. This new stick was packaged in a metal tube. I have no firm evidence, but I believe these new sticks replaced the transparent sticks entirely. One early mention was in the 1918 Chemist and Druggist: The Newsweekly for Pharmacy, Volume 90.

That takes us to something like 1849-1918 - a pretty wide range, and the upper limit is fuzzy. But we have a few more clues to explore. First, the bottom of the tube reads "Patent No. 6541/08". I am weak on UK patent marks, but I believe that means the patent was either applied for or issued in 1908. I would like to find the patent, just to read it. But as long as the opaque soap gives us an upper limit of 1918, we do not care when the patent expired. So this suggests 1908-1918.

Next is the "New Oxford St." on the cap. I find that Pears already occupied "71-75, New Oxford Street, London, W.C." in 1907 according to a contemporary circular. But the address appears to be unhelpful: another circular shows the same address in 1920. In case you are interested, I also turned up a 1915 Mitchell Mannering article titled The Father of Modern Advertising. It includes a picture of the building, and I recognized it immediately. It is the only decent-looking building left on that blasted and blighted block of New Oxford St. But I digress. Read the article if you like: it is only a few pages.

I think the dark line between the directions and the signature reads "PRICE 1/0." or "PRICE 1 S.", which matches the price in the early ads. The opaque sticks seem to have been a little more expensive, but I do not know if that helps pin down a date for this package.

It could help if we had a timeline for Royal Warrants. I found an 1894 ad listing two warrants, and a 1915 report mentions another. That could suggest closer dates for my stick, but only if we knew that Pears would advertise a warrant on their packaging - and if we knew exactly when Pears gained and lost their warrants.

So I seem to be stuck at 1908-1918. Any thoughts?
 
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I know nothing about this other than the info you provided above. But I am compelled to comment and say what an outstanding find! This is the kind of stuff that makes me appreciate the history of wet shaving. I would be interested to read a review of this soap if and when you decide to use it.

Well done, sir.
 
Thanks for your interest. If and when I use it, I will certainly report on the results.

The unused stick weights about 67-g. It is 75-mm high. The diameter is a uniform 32-mm. If these dimensions are the same as the original 1849 stick, it sheds some light on the evolution of sticks. My vintage Erasmic (red catalin or bakelite holder) is also 32-mm, and my Gibbs is 31-mm. Most modern mass-production sticks are 28-mm, so I think of that as the standard gauge. But Pears probably set the standard until Colgate and Williams muscled into the stick market. I wonder how and why the change was made? Were 28-mm sticks cheaper to produce, or to distribute? Did the Williams Holder Top and Colgate Handy Grip have something to do with it?

The closest modern mass-production stick might be Valobra at 32x76. Its packaging claims 50-g, but mine was closer to 60-g new. It fits nicely in the vintage Erasmic holder, which means that Pears will probably fit too. I expect it would also work in the red catalin Williams Holder Top design, with the retaining ring removed.
 
Interesting. I just purchased a Colgate Handy Grip last week. I haven't measured it but I do know that my Arko stick won't fit. My La Toja will however. Also, does the Pears have any scent left?
 
Interesting. I just purchased a Colgate Handy Grip last week. I haven't measured it but I do know that my Arko stick won't fit. My La Toja will however. Also, does the Pears have any scent left?

You can find dimensions for most sticks on the wiki: Shave_stick. Arko is about 33-mm. La Toja is about 28-mm. You could trim Arko to fit, or if it is soft enough you might even be able to roll it into a thinner shape. You can read more about vintage containers at http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/260416-Using-that-shave-stick-container-(Vintage-Shave-Stick-Ads) too.

This Pears stick has no discernible scent at all - not even tallow. I am not sure what the original scent might have been. Ads for the bath soap from around 1922 mention "its refreshing, clean smell". Click through the image for the google books version, which can zoom larger.



On the other hand I found one source mentioning that the transparent bath soap was scented "with flowers". And according to a 1913 report, Pears also made a high-end bath soap with "Attar of Roses".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pears_soap has more information about Pears. I highlighted a mention of the classic fragrance.

Pears soap was made using a process entirely different to that for other soaps. A mixture of tallow and other fats was saponified by caustic potash (potassium hydroxide) in industrial methylated spirits. After saponification was completed the resulting glycerol was left in the batch. Batches were made not in huge pans, but in small kettle-like vessels and as soon as the translucent amber liquid had cooled enough to solidify it was extruded into opaque oval bars that were cut into bath- or toilet weight tablets ready for beginning their long drying spell in the drying rooms (ovens). The hot liquid soap fresh from the vessel had a total fatty matter (TFM) of 45% compared with the TFMs of 70-80% usual in soaps made by the conventional method. The TFM increased considerably as the alcohol content fell during drying.

The entire Pears plant was a small almost self-contained annexe situated at the rear of the administration block. The plant was run by a handful of staff who not only had experience of the specialised process, but had developed immunity to the effects of breathing the alcohol-laden atmosphere in the plant building.

The concave shape of the soap is formed by shrinkage while the soap is drying, and is not due to deliberate moulding.

Bars of soap produced in the factory come in two sizes: 75 g and 125 g. Nowadays this soap comes in three colours - the classic amber, the green, and mint (blue color). Each variety has a unique aroma. The soap now comes in two new sizes: 69 g and 119 g.

Recent changes to quality of ingredients used in the manufacturing process (see "Changes to the Formula" below) have resulted in a noticeably different shape (flatter rather than concave) and difference in scent with the classic transparent amber bar. The aroma, which used to be a characteristically mild, spicy fragrance, is now a very strong scent. In the UK the same has been noticed in 2009 with a scent almost like coal tar and with a reduction in the moisturizing properties, and in a differently shaped bar.

A table later in the same article mentions rosemary, thyme, and "Pears fragrance essence". But originally the stick might have had a completely different scent, or even none at all.
 
Thanks for your interest. If and when I use it, I will certainly report on the results.

The unused stick weights about 67-g. It is 75-mm high. The diameter is a uniform 32-mm. If these dimensions are the same as the original 1849 stick, it sheds some light on the evolution of sticks. My vintage Erasmic (red catalin or bakelite holder) is also 32-mm, and my Gibbs is 31-mm. Most modern mass-production sticks are 28-mm, so I think of that as the standard gauge. But Pears probably set the standard until Colgate and Williams muscled into the stick market. I wonder how and why the change was made? Were 28-mm sticks cheaper to produce, or to distribute? Did the Williams Holder Top and Colgate Handy Grip have something to do with it?

The closest modern mass-production stick might be Valobra at 32x76. Its packaging claims 50-g, but mine was closer to 60-g new. It fits nicely in the vintage Erasmic holder, which means that Pears will probably fit too. I expect it would also work in the red catalin Williams Holder Top design, with the retaining ring removed.
That's quite a find. I'm green with eny (which should make for a good contrast with my lather tomorrow). I suspect the size reduction had more to do with boosting profits than any imposition from external sources. Sort of like the 'pound' of bacon in the grocery store now weighing 12 oz for the same price.
 
Was the Pears transparent stick a long-lost grail of wet-shaving? Or did the world have to wait until 1899, when Williams brought their first stick to market?

This morning I set out to answer that question, and shaved with the Pears transparent stick (PTS) for the first time. The results were mixed, so I plan to continue through Friday.

Pears Transparent Soap Shaving Stick
TGN Finest XH 22-mm with unbranded Rooney 3/1 handle
BRW Bull Mastiff with Made in England NEW long-comb
Gillette yellow (4)
Shiseido Bravas

I followed my usual routine: soak brush, wet face, rub stick. Then I face-lathered for about five minutes, adding water as needed. Rubbing the stick felt odd: this is easily the hardest, driest soap I have ever tried to use.

The lather built easily, and some scent emerged - but nothing I could describe easily. After lathering I had a pretty fair looking result, as pictured. Sorry about the image quality: the lighting is fairly poor, and I was eager to get to the shave. The lather had a slightly tan cast, which may not come through in the photo. I had enough in the brush for three or four passes.



Despite looking pretty good, the lather did not perform very well. Mostly it lacked glide, but it also did not seem to soften my beard much. I went ahead and did my usual three passes without bloodshed. The results were fine: a close shave with no burn. But the process was not particularly comfortable, and by the end the lather began to decay.

When a new soap performs poorly, two cries go up: "not enough product", and "break through the crust". If it is the latter, I hope to see some progress by Friday.

Not enough product? Weighing the stick before and after reveals that it lost less than 1/3 of a gram. I usually load 1/2 to 3/4 grams, and up to 1.5-g with Lenny, the MNS lime otter pop shave stick. Pears used to advertise 12 months of "average consumption". That would be about 0.18-g daily, or 0.36-g if we allow every other day. But that was advertising, and certainly I will try more product.

On a related point, the change in weight may be misleading. Right now this very old, very dry soap may be absorbing almost as much water as it yields soap, and water is heavy. I have an old puck that delivered great shaves from the first use, but actually gained weight over the first five shaves. With its thirst slaked it behaved more normally, but this Pears stick may be in a similar state.

Conclusion: more shaves needed.
 
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Our late great "Rudy The Kip" Kipling said:
Did he, therefore, jilt Miss Boffkin – impulse of a baser mind?
No! He started epileptic fits of an appalling kind.
[Of his modus operandi only this much I could gather:–
"Pears shaving sticks will give you little taste and lots of lather."]


The Post That Fitted, Rudyard Kipling, ca. 1919.

I trust this was not an early example of product placement. On the other hand Pears known for innovative advertising....

Today my shave was a little better than yesterday. The PTS seems to be kind to skin, as advertised, and I did not bleed. But the glide was lacking and my beard seemed difficult to cut.

Pears Transparent Soap Shaving Stick
Rooney 3/1 super
BRW Bull Mastiff with Made in England NEW long-comb
Gillette yellow (5)
4711 and Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue, 1:1 mix

Tomorrow I plan to try a fresh blade. Jeans-stropping has allowed me to take a Gillette yellow to seven shaves before now, but why not rule it out? Along with that I will try to load up even more soap. Today the scale tells me that I transferred about 0.6-g from the stick to my face. That would be pretty good for me with vintage Williams or Erasmic. But in this case perhaps I need still more product.

Or PTS might not be a very good shaving soap for me. I could still keep it handy, just in case I ever need to simulate an epileptic fit.
 
Pears Transparent Soap Shaving Stick
Rooney 3/1 finest
BRW Bull Mastiff with Made in England NEW long-comb
Lord platinum (1)
4711 and Aqua Velva Classic Ice Blue, 1:1 mix



One useful thing about the scritch from Rooney finest hair: when the lather is ready, the scritch disappears. The lather felt much better today. According to the scale I loaded about 0.9-g, which took some effort. The lather could have been even slicker, but at least it had more glide than previous days.

With one more shave before I rotate it out, I feel a little better about PTS. But was it one of the great vintage soaps? Probably not. The switch to an opaque stick ca. 1918 may have been one of those occasions - all too rare - when reformulation was good.
 
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This is great stuff. I can't wait for your final analysis.

I am done for now.

Pears Transparent Soap Shaving Stick
TGN Finest XH 22-mm with unbranded Rooney 3/1 handle
BRW Bull Mastiff with Made in England NEW long-comb
Lord platinum (2)
Pinaud Lilac Vegetal, vintage in glass

This was the best shave yet. The scale tells me that I loaded 1.1-g, but that took some work. I even tried a little fist-bowl loading, without much success. Mostly I rubbed and rubbed. All this effort detracts from the usual benefits of a stick, and the lather still does not quite measure up to my favorite soaps. It has pretty good cushion and decent glide, but nothing I would go out of my way for. The lather tends to have a brownish-yellow cast, which I find somewhat unsettling. While the scent is not particularly strong it has an odd musty note. Skin care is good, but not spectacular.

Many of these characteristics may be due to age, especially the color and the difficult loading. But I have a stick of Gibbs, probably ca. 1930s, that is not much younger and performs much better. So I struggle to believe that this soap was ever serious competition for vintage Williams - even before the innovative Holder Top package. This PTS does not stand up well to the best of modern soaps, either: I would reach past it for Palmolive or Valobra.

It would not much surprise me if this stick were identical to Pears bath soap from the same era. It performs better than most bath soaps, but that is faint praise for a purpose-made shaving soap. I wonder if Pears felt that their money was better spent on advertising than on product improvements? Admittedly their advertising was innovative, and apparently very effective.

As a piece of history I still think it was a good buy: the first brand of shaving stick ever made. I will probably try it again sometime. Meanwhile it goes into the reserve stash.
 
I just noticed a Pears stick BIN on eBay. They come up rarely, so I thought I would bump this thread for anyone considering the purchase. I have not tried my stick again since this thread was posted, but those shaves did not reveal Pears as a great vintage shave soap.

So my advice? Buy it for history if you like, but do not expect great shaves.
 
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