What Destroys Brushes?

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Not having enough brushes is hard on brushes. They get lonely.

These are the boars in my rotation.



They like being washed occasionally in Ship-Shape. They like being very well rinsed after each use. They like to dry out well between uses. They like being loved, too, for that matter.

Brushes like water which is either cold or warm. They don't like hot water! They don't like to have any soap left in them between uses.

I'm thinking here of both boars and badgers. I don't know about synthetics.

 

[Wtd1911]

I have a soup bowl from Meijer that's 4 1/2in × 1 1/2in. Came with a travel lid on sale for 4 bucks. Smooth with straight sides. Lathers just as well as my dot/line textured GP20 scuttle and GP Bowl. They are both very mild. This smooth soup bowl gives me thicker lather. I have room to work plus I feel textured bowls add more air to the lather which I don't like. I.E. my Captain's Choice bowl. Love the size, dislike all the ridges. Cut back on the ridges and it's perfect. Planning on going to a local pottery place and making my own. This place is like the painting places, BYOB and have fun!

 

[sextus]

I feel like getting good lather should out-importance never damaging the brush. If you always rinse, always let dry, and never use boiling water, shouldn't a quality brush last many years?

 

[Wtd1911]

I feel like getting good lather should out-importance never damaging the brush. If you always rinse, always let dry, and never use boiling water, shouldn't a quality brush last many years?

Exactly. Don't abuse your equipment and take care of it and it will last. I have woodworking tools my great grandfather used, not saying brushes will last that long. We can extend the life of a brush and a razor just by taking care, routine maintenance.

 

[Splinter]

On the other hand, at around $10.00 for an Omega Brush - arguably a "quality brush" - how long does it have to last to be considered a good value?

 

[Wtd1911]

On the other hand, at around $10.00 for an Omega Brush - arguably a "quality brush" - how long does it have to last to be considered a good value?

Doesn't matter the price, take care of it. My brushes range from 200+ to 10 bucks. Simple maintenance goes for years. Just like any tool. They are tools.

 

[Sketcher]

I have a soup bowl from Meijer that's 4 1/2in × 1 1/2in. Came with a travel lid on sale for 4 bucks. Smooth with straight sides. Lathers just as well as my dot/line textured GP20 scuttle and GP Bowl. They are both very mild. This smooth soup bowl gives me thicker lather. I have room to work plus I feel textured bowls add more air to the lather which I don't like. I.E. my Captain's Choice bowl. Love the size, dislike all the ridges. Cut back on the ridges and it's perfect. Planning on going to a local pottery place and making my own. This place is like the painting places, BYOB and have fun!

This is encouraging. I have seen so many great looking bowls for sale that I passed over because they were smooth.

 

[Wtd1911]

This is encouraging. I have seen so many great looking bowls for sale that I passed over because they were smooth.

Soaking a brand new Thater Boar now. Going to test lather Castle Forbes Lavender (new as well) in a few minutes in the smooth bowl. I'll post when done.

 

[Pat Puma]

Dogs

True. Cats will tear them up, too.

 

[Wtd1911]

New Thater Premium Boar, Castle Forbes Lavender cream. Real impressed with the Thaters. Soap smells great and easy to lather. Smooth soup bowl.

 

[Rudy Vey]

I would not use a mortar bowl, they are purposely roughed up on the inside, so chemicals etc. can be ground down.
You will eventually abrade your brush hair, and thus creating a problem down the line.
The biggest problem I see quite often is that brushes are not cleaned properly and soap/creams remains inside the knot. This will results in breakdown of the hair and the brush will shed. I have seen my share of badly treated brushes/shedders.

 

[Wtd1911]

I would not use a mortar bowl, they are purposely roughed up on the inside, so chemicals etc. can be ground down.
You will eventually abrade your brush hair, and thus creating a problem down the line.
The biggest problem I see quite often is that brushes are not cleaned properly and soap/creams remains inside the knot. This will results in breakdown of the hair and the brush will shed. I have seen my share of badly treated brushes/shedders.

Agree. Rudy, what is the BEST way to clean a brush from your opinion and recommendation?

 

[Rudy Vey]

Agree. Rudy, what is the BEST way to clean a brush from your opinion and recommendation?

Well, first of all, I think the most important thing to do is to rinse out all the soap/cream residue. To do this, I let water run into the knot from the top, and squeeze it out- repeat. Best is warm water, not cold.
Make sure there is not any foaming or much scent left - these are the best indicators that the brush is clean.
To be honest, I have never used any cleaning procedures for my brushes, no need for it when you properly clean your brush. But, I also have softened water. Some people recommend a bath with some dawn dish detergent added to water, and then after rinsed out, a bath in diluted vinegar. However, I never used these cleaning procedures. I believe if the brush is well taken care off with washing out all the soap/cream then it should be not needing any further cleaning.

 

[Graydog]

Well, first of all, I think the most important thing to do is to rinse out all the soap/cream residue. To do this, I let water run into the knot from the top, and squeeze it out- repeat. Best is warm water, not cold.
Make sure there is not any foaming or much scent left - these are the best indicators that the brush is clean.
To be honest, I have never used any cleaning procedures for my brushes, no need for it when you properly clean your brush. But, I also have softened water. Some people recommend a bath with some dawn dish detergent added to water, and then after rinsed out, a bath in diluted vinegar. However, I never used these cleaning procedures. I believe if the brush is well taken care off with washing out all the soap/cream then it should be not needing any further cleaning.

Great advice Rudy , That is after every shave . I then will paint the brush on a towel and wipe the handle dry
all the way to the top by the knot

 

[Wtd1911]

Well, first of all, I think the most important thing to do is to rinse out all the soap/cream residue. To do this, I let water run into the knot from the top, and squeeze it out- repeat. Best is warm water, not cold.
Make sure there is not any foaming or much scent left - these are the best indicators that the brush is clean.
To be honest, I have never used any cleaning procedures for my brushes, no need for it when you properly clean your brush. But, I also have softened water. Some people recommend a bath with some dawn dish detergent added to water, and then after rinsed out, a bath in diluted vinegar. However, I never used these cleaning procedures. I believe if the brush is well taken care off with washing out all the soap/cream then it should be not needing any further cleaning.

Thank you!

 

[Splinter]

For those who may have missed it, Mr. Vey points out that his process is subject to the following caveat:

But, I also have softened water.

For us non-chemists, what that means is that soap rinses much easier from brushes using softened water than it would from a brush rinsed in hard or even just harder water. Brushes subject to hard or water that has not been softened may require additional treatment over time to eliminate build up of residue.

 

[Frozenshades]

View attachment 956936

Not having enough brushes is hard on brushes. They get lonely.

Shave brushes are social creatures. I daresay a group of less than three could be argued as neglect.

Great advice Rudy , That is after every shave . I then will paint the brush on a towel and wipe the handle dry
all the way to the top by the knot

What I do as well. I've found a gentle squeeze in the towel followed by a few gentle painting strokes helps for quicker drying. No towel action and my 30mm badger will still be damp the next day, with the towel it's dry.

 

[Pat Puma]

To do this, I let water run into the knot from the top, and squeeze it out- repeat. Best is warm water, not cold.

That's my method right there. I rinse from the top, like Rudy says, thoroughly I would add. Followed by a gentle squeeze and a couple of shakes and then air dry.

 

[naughtilus]

What typically kills brushes:

1. Soap scum buildup.
2. Mashing brushes flat down to the glue bump.
3. Hot water.
4. Rough textured bowls (example suribachi).
5. Over-bleached knots (badger gel tips, premium boar) may even have tips breaking from face lathering.

#1 is by far the biggest culprit. It kills brushes indiscriminately.

 

[oscar11]

Me.