Trying to understand "mild" vs "aggressive" razors

[RazorTom]

Alright, so I am new at this and became quickly frustrated with my first DE razor purchase, the Merkur 34c. I felt it was way too mild and not efficient enough, so I stupidly sold it and purchased a few "aggressive" razors (r41, GC 84, and Rocca). I proceeded to save every other day with the more aggressive razors and did indeed receive more efficient and closer shaves, BUT at the cost of some pretty nasty razor burn on my neck. I decided that maybe I should slow down and let my skin heal before giving the milder 34c another try. So I purchased another 34c and gave my skin 5 days to heal with no shaving.

Today, I put a feather blade into my new 34c and did my usual 3 pass shave. I was thrilled to have a decent shave with a lot less irritation. Not quite as close as I get with the other razors, but at least my neck is not shredded. I plan to try another shave with the 34c in ~ 48 hrs to see how it goes. I'm hoping to have an even closer shave as I continue to figure out the angle and improve my technique. Right now I am just so relieved to not have a bunch of razor burn on my neck. The thing is, I'm not sure if the the lack of irritation is due to using a milder razor, or if I have less irritation because it has been 5 days since my last shave LOL. I guess we'll see... Has anyone else experienced this?

 

[spacemonkey42]

Or perhaps your technique is improving. This skill takes a while to develop. Have patience and give it time, it sounds like you’ve improved already.

 

[Ron R]

Today, I put a feather blade into my new 34c and did my usual 3 pass shave. I was thrilled to have a decent shave with a lot less irritation. Not quite as close as I get with the other razors, but at least my neck is not shredded. I plan to try another shave with the 34c in ~ 48 hrs to see how it goes. I'm hoping to have an even closer shave as I continue to figure out the angle and improve my technique. Right now I am just so relieved to not have a bunch of razor burn on my neck. The thing is, I'm not sure if the the lack of irritation is due to using a milder razor, or if I have less irritation because it has been 5 days since my last shave LOL. I guess we'll see... Has anyone else experienced this?

Sounds like your technique is finally maturing and stay the course for a little longer and you will be able to use more aggressive razors if that is what you like.
Another thing I will mention is you could just slip a Kai SS blade in your Merkur 34C and it will give a little boast in blade feel or blade exposure.
It is slightly wider than a Gillette standard blade by about 8-9/1000 of inch or .0085 thousands wider. They are pricier but longevity is longer has been my experience over the years using them in milder razors. I will always have a few tucks in my shave den for use with milder razors + they are sharp and smooth with excellent longevity.
(Old archived photo I took showing the difference in width!)

Have some great shaves!

 

[RazorTom]

Sounds like your technique is finally maturing and stay the course for a little longer and you will be able to use more aggressive razors if that is what you like.
Another thing I will mention is you could just slip a Kai SS blade in your Merkur 34C and it will give a little boast in blade feel or blade exposure.
It is slightly wider than a Gillette standard blade by about 8-9/1000 of inch or .0085 thousands wider. They are pricier but longevity is longer has been my experience over the years using them in milder razors. I will always have a few tucks in my shave den for use with milder razors + they are sharp and smooth with excellent longevity.
(Old archived photo I took showing the difference in width!)
View attachment 1749147
Have some great shaves!

Thanks for the tip! Going to order some KAIs.

 

[Osyri]

Alright, so I am new at this and became quickly frustrated with my first DE razor purchase, the Merkur 34c. I felt it was way too mild and not efficient enough, so I stupidly sold it and purchased a few "aggressive" razors (r41, GC 84, and Rocca). I proceeded to save every other day with the more aggressive razors and did indeed receive more efficient and closer shaves, BUT at the cost of some pretty nasty razor burn on my neck. I decided that maybe I should slow down and let my skin heal before giving the milder 34c another try. So I purchased another 34c and gave my skin 5 days to heal with no shaving.

Today, I put a feather blade into my new 34c and did my usual 3 pass shave. I was thrilled to have a decent shave with a lot less irritation. Not quite as close as I get with the other razors, but at least my neck is not shredded. I plan to try another shave with the 34c in ~ 48 hrs to see how it goes. I'm hoping to have an even closer shave as I continue to figure out the angle and improve my technique. Right now I am just so relieved to not have a bunch of razor burn on my neck. The thing is, I'm not sure if the the lack of irritation is due to using a milder razor, or if I have less irritation because it has been 5 days since my last shave LOL. I guess we'll see... Has anyone else experienced this?

My favorite Professor APBinNCA have a very detail take on it at his journal that you should check out.

I started 2 months ago and ran into a similar situation as you with an aggressive razor. What helped me was taking it slow, adjusting my shave angle, and allowing time for my skin to adjust to it.

@Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker also provided me great product suggestions (soap, razor blades, brushes, etc) to aid in my learning process along with providing me Motivation.

When I switch from a mild razor (Tech, GC68) to a Lupo95, My face got so tendered and chewed up after 2 shave and 3 passes, I was afraid to even touch it.

After adjusting and finding a shaving angle that works with my beard, I slowly took it with only WTG passes to XTG passes. It wasn't until 2 weeks of practicing a shallow angle, that I was able to go ATG with the Lupo.

 

[Eben Stone]

With a very sharp blade in a mild razor, you should be able to achieve a reasonably close and irritation free shave. But getting a very close shave with it will take some learning and effort (lots of skin stretching, etc).

With an aggressive razor, you will no doubt achieve a very close shave, but at first you should expect some irritation until your technique improves. Getting an irritation free shave with an aggressive razor takes time to learn and a very slick soap.

You should definitely wait inbetween shaves for your skin to heal if you have any noticeable irritation.

 

[BigJ]

As others note, the biggest change is your technique. Congratulations!!

For me, the optimal combination is a ‘mild/moderate’ razor plus a sharp blade. YMMV for sure.

I suggest you stick with your current set up for a bit longer, try some additional blades. Then, decide if you wish to try other razor options. Just my $0.02!!

 

[StubbleTrouble]

Alright, so I am new at this and became quickly frustrated with my first DE razor purchase, the Merkur 34c. I felt it was way too mild and not efficient enough, so I stupidly sold it and purchased a few "aggressive" razors (r41, GC 84, and Rocca). I proceeded to save every other day with the more aggressive razors and did indeed receive more efficient and closer shaves, BUT at the cost of some pretty nasty razor burn on my neck. I decided that maybe I should slow down and let my skin heal before giving the milder 34c another try. So I purchased another 34c and gave my skin 5 days to heal with no shaving.

Today, I put a feather blade into my new 34c and did my usual 3 pass shave. I was thrilled to have a decent shave with a lot less irritation. Not quite as close as I get with the other razors, but at least my neck is not shredded. I plan to try another shave with the 34c in ~ 48 hrs to see how it goes. I'm hoping to have an even closer shave as I continue to figure out the angle and improve my technique. Right now I am just so relieved to not have a bunch of razor burn on my neck. The thing is, I'm not sure if the the lack of irritation is due to using a milder razor, or if I have less irritation because it has been 5 days since my last shave LOL. I guess we'll see... Has anyone else experienced this?

As stated, your technique is improving. After a while the quality of shaves won't differ based upon the razor you use - You'll simply learn to adjust your approach based upon all kinds of variables (including razors).

I've personally found my happy place with more aggressive razors (as double-edge razors go), specifically, a Fatip Piccolo with a super-heavy, after-market handle. It is nice to switch out for milder razors for the variety!

 

[Hercule]

Sounds like a technique issue. Try a different sequence with your passes. Even adjust mid pass. Beard mapping (or at least take note of the growth patterns) would give you an idea as to a good way to approach it.

 

[musicman1951]

The "right" choice of razor is a marriage between razor/blade/beard/face and technique. You seem to have jumped from mild to aggressive, leapfrogging over hundreds of razors in the middle.

Unless you have unlimited funds, I suggest you stay with the mild razor while your technique develops. There are pretty sharp razor blades with more forgiveness than a Feather (Wizamet, Gillette Yellow and Platinum, Personna Med Prep or Lab). Try to be satisfied for a time with pretty darn good shaves with no irritation. When you're hitting that mark much of the time put up another post asking about razors - be as specific in your desires as you can. There are lots of forum members with huge razor collections, and their good recommendations can prevent you from becoming yet another shaver with a huge collection of razors.

Good luck, and enjoy the journey.

 

[RazorTom]

The "right" choice of razor is a marriage between razor/blade/beard/face and technique. You seem to have jumped from mild to aggressive, leapfrogging over hundreds of razors in the middle.

Unless you have unlimited funds, I suggest you stay with the mild razor while your technique develops. There are pretty sharp razor blades with more forgiveness than a Feather (Wizamet, Gillette Yellow and Platinum, Personna Med Prep or Lab). Try to be satisfied for a time with pretty darn good shaves with no irritation. When you're hitting that mark much of the time put up another post asking about razors - be as specific in your desires as you can. There are lots of forum members with huge razor collections, and their good recommendations can prevent you from becoming yet another shaver with a huge collection of razors.

Good luck, and enjoy the journey.

Good advice, but I already this week I purchased a Feather AS D2, Muhle 89 Twist, and EJ 89 with the knurled handle!

That's it, I swear...NO MORE RAZORS for a long while!

 

[Filudo]

Use the "aggressive" razors you have and just do a 2 pass shave (I think this is the purpose of them.....with a sharp blade) and if you still get irritated, shave every 2 days..... . You may want to try a pre shave (Proraso) and use balm after shaving (Nivea).

BTW Ej and Muhle are the same heads (identical), and just the handle is different.....

 

[Dave himself]

Good advice, but I already this week I purchased a Feather AS D2, Muhle 89 Twist, and EJ 89 with the knurled handle!

That's it, I swear...NO MORE RAZORS for a long while!

Just because you bought them doesn't mean you have chop and change. Stick with one razor for at least 4 weeks, to get a feel for it. Then move on to the next one.

 

[Goblin]

Stick with one razor for at least 4 weeks, to get a feel for it. Then move on to the next one.

This is the answer.

You don't say, OP, how long you have been DE shaving for, but it sounds like you have at least 7 razors now. I would say that's too many for a learner to rotate through without establishing some foundations.

A lot of us here are "razor whores" who use a different razor for every shave, but the only reason we can do that is because we have been DE shaving for a long time, and probably also spent many months (or years) using just one or two razors.

It takes time to build the muscle memory that allows you to get consistent results with one razor. After that, you have to start again with another razor and go through the same process. By the time you "learned" three or four razors by clocking up a few months of shaves with them exclusively, you are starting to get to the point where you can pick up anything and get the hang of it in a few shaves...at least that was my experience.

It's worth pointing out as well that by "a few months" of shaves I mean shaving 4 or 5 times a week. If you only shave every 5 days, it's going to take longer to achieve the desired level of proficiency. Of course, you may be considerably more skilled than me - it's fair to say I was a slow learner during my first couple of years of DE shaving!

 

[RazorTom]

Use the "aggressive" razors you have and just do a 2 pass shave (I think this is the purpose of them.....with a sharp blade) and if you still get irritated, shave every 2 days..... . You may want to try a pre shave (Proraso) and use balm after shaving (Nivea).

BTW Ej and Muhle are the same heads (identical), and just the handle is different.....

I will need to try my aggressive razors with a Feather, have only used Astras with the more aggressive razors.

I realize that the EJ and Muhle have the same heads, but I really wanted to give the different handles a try.

 

[Guido75]

A lot of very wise words have already been said, but what I also take from your OP and subsequent details is this.

BUT at the cost of some pretty nasty razor burn on my neck.

That sounds like a pressure thing. The more effective razors - I would necessarily call them aggressive - work best with no pressure and taking your time (not ages just a little more) to do the passes.

Also shaving in accordance with your beard map might assist to reduce razor burn.

What I have not read so far and what is in my view absolutely important is your prep. What do you do before you apply your lather? Have you tried preshave? Are tot face lathering or bowl lathering? You might want to consider the first for a while to massage your whiskers on the neck a little bit more to soften them up.

have only used Astras with the more aggressive razors.

Ah. Yes I can see that not working. At least Astra’s while loved don’t work that well for me. I can imagine that an Astra in the R41 might even lead to a sort of tuggy experience.

The Rocca is half way between the R89 and R41 and should give you the best of both worlds. Provided again that you keep off the pressure button.

The stable you have collected so far are safe bets for lots of great shaves. Enjoy!

Guido

 

[Guido75]

A lot of us here are "razor whores" who use a different razor for every shave

Love the synonym for “rotation” there!

 

[RazorTom]

A lot of very wise words have already been said, but what I also take from your OP and subsequent details is this.


That sounds like a pressure thing. The more effective razors - I would necessarily call them aggressive - work best with no pressure and taking your time (not ages just a little more) to do the passes.

Also shaving in accordance with your beard map might assist to reduce razor burn.

What I have not read so far and what is in my view absolutely important is your prep. What do you do before you apply your lather? Have you tried preshave? Are tot face lathering or bowl lathering? You might want to consider the first for a while to massage your whiskers on the neck a little bit more to soften them up.


Ah. Yes I can see that not working. At least Astra’s while loved don’t work that well for me. I can imagine that an Astra in the R41 might even lead to a sort of tuggy experience.

The Rocca is half way between the R89 and R41 and should give you the best of both worlds. Provided again that you keep off the pressure button.

The stable you have collected so far are safe bets for lots of great shaves. Enjoy!

Guido

Guido,
You are spot on with the Astra + R41 comment, it does feel a bit tuggy. Thanks for the thoughtful reply!

 

[euro]

The Merkur 34C HD is a mild razor but a great one. It was my first razor I ever owned. You need wait a couple days before your skin heals completely, once figure DE shaving out then you could use almost any razor and blade combination. If you want to try out something more aggressive then don't tighten the handle to the max. The base plate won't bend the blade like it should thus it will turn it into a more aggressive razor. Or use this method which works better than the previous method I described:

How To Make Shims For DE Safety Razor (Using Multiple Material)

Sometimes we get a razor, be it vintage or modern that really is up to snuff on our faces. It can be a tad depressing, especially if it was a "Holy Grail" razor that you have been chasing for awhile. We I am here to tell you that all hope is not lost! If the problem happens to be it's not...

howtogrowamoustache.com

Merkur 34C HD + Astra SP was my favorite combo for the first couple months... till I discovered this board and started to buy more blades, razors etc

I tried the Feather in the Fatip Piccolo Opencomb and in the Merkur 34C HD, both are a great combo. I also done it with a shimmed Fatip Piccolo and the results are supersizing because I had no nicks, no burns. Got a BBS after the XTG pass.

Sometimes we want to try out so many new cool things but you know what sucks about this hobby? Waiting a couple days till you have decent beard growth.

Give that shimming a chance, it will turn any razor into an aggressive razor. Or you can buy an adjustable razor.

 

[Rosseforp]

That's it, I swear...NO MORE RAZORS for a long while!

I think I have heard that before somewhere.....