To remove patina during a vintage brush restoration. . .or not. . .that is the questi

[Gigster]

I’ve restored a BUNCH of shaving brushes over the last five years. I know, some brushes should (need to, must) have the patina preserved. . .especially when it’s butterscotch. For example, vintage Simpsons, Rooney’s, etc.

But, what about other brushes? You know, those “other” Bakelite and Catalin handles. Lol


When one comes across my bench. . . .my curiosity screams and an insatiable desire to remove the old patina races to the surface. It’s so bad. . .I feel like one of those wide-eyed, drooling emots. Me - - - - - -> . lol


Don’t get me wrong, I know how to exercise restraint. . . . .


BEFORE. . . .







AFTER. . . . .







BEFORE. . . .







AFTER. . . . .







But. . . . .there are times. . . .when restraint does not exist. . . .



BEFORE. . . .







AFTER. . . . .







BEFORE. . . .







AFTER. . . . .







Well, I'm faced with another. . . .one of those “restraint or not” brushes on my bench. Only a glimpse for now.

Most of the lower is the brown-ish color you see in the picture. Except for those little hints of green sneaking out.







So, what do you think? Should I break out the heavy equipment or not?

 

[Fishertwin]

IMO, it would be nice to see more of the green.

 

[Gigster]

Thanks for you input.

 

[Big Jim]

It isn't like you are dealing with a million dollar antique. Those are your brushes. Treat them in whatever manner gives you the most pleasure. Personally I really like what you have done with those. Every one of them looks much better than how you found them.

 

[Gigster]

Thanks, Big Jim.

 

[Dad3*3]

To me, restoration means bringing the brush back to, as close as possible, new condition. I like to see the original color. I've done quite a few and never regretted taking them down to as close to original as possible. Sand away!

 

[BSAGuy]

I agree with this. Think it over and do whatever you want. It's not like these are the Mona Lisa.

It isn't like you are dealing with a million dollar antique. Those are your brushes. Treat them in whatever manner gives you the most pleasure. Personally I really like what you have done with those. Every one of them looks much better than how you found them.

 

[1holegrouper]

I would break it up into small stages and photograph each stage to see what changes it brings, if any, to the color pattern.

 

[Gigster]

I appreciate the replies.

I would break it up into small stages and photograph each stage to see what changes it brings, if any, to the color pattern.

Absolutely. This definitely an unusual one.



After cleaning with Dawn dishwashing soap and an old toothbrush.





A final check (several previous) to see what the lower is made of.





It's Catalin.

 

[1holegrouper]

Looks like the brown is what will come off then. It will be a beaut!

 

[Dad3*3]

I think I saw that one on ebay, is that the Merit 99-6? I wondered what color it really was. Nice score, I was going to bid but it got up in price beyond my range. I think you'll have a beauty there when you are done.

 

[Gigster]

Looks like the brown is what will come off then. It will be a beaut!

The brown is a mix of patina and years of grime and goop. Some areas are tougher to get off than others.

To give you an idea how dirty it was - and this was one of four cleanings with Dawn and an old toothbrush.. . . .

I think I saw that one on ebay, is that the Merit 99-6? I wondered what color it really was. Nice score, I was going to bid but it got up in price beyond my range. I think you'll have a beauty there when you are done.

It is.

Yeah, the price was more than I was expecting. The auction seemed to focus on the shaving mug and not the brush. There was very little information in the listing. I was concerned what the lower was made out of. lol

In my research, I've only been able to find information on two other brushes - a 99-3 (on another wet shaving forum) and a 99-5 (sold on eBay five or six months ago). I have yet to find any information on the company.

The color is green, but it's more like a greenish blue. It reminds me of turquoise.

I need to resize some sanding pictures and post them. I don't know why, I'm assuming due to the color, but the handle is really hard to get good pics.

 

[Gigster]

The very initial sanding. The patina at this point is coming off fairly easily with 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper.




What the sanded areas look like wet, since dry, sanded areas don't reveal much.





Further, initial sanding.

The area where the handle flare downward to the grip ring was harder to remove the patina. I think from years of grime build-up and not receiving a periodic cleaning during use.

The previous picture shows a differing degree of darkness in area (or hopefully does) that was harder to sand.

I had to drop down to 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper for that portion of the handle.

 

[Gigster]

Update. . . . .










Slowly, but surely. . . .it's getting there.

 

[Big Jim]

Patience is a rewarding virtue.

 

[mgbbrown]

Well Done Bigster! This issue is constantly debated in car restoration circles. The British have coined a term for a preservationist type of restoration, warranted on cars that are historically worthy of maintaining originality as much as possible. it is called a sympathetic restoration. This can apply to significant marques such as Packard in the US, or a Pre-War Bentley, a Ferrari with a racing history or an early 1950's hot rod that is well preserved or raced at such venues as el Mirage or Muroc dry lakes. One car that came to my attention that was restored in this manner, was one of the 12 aluminum bodied low drag XKE Jaguars, discovered in a garage virtually undisturbed since its debut at Sebring in 1963, raced by Ed Leslie and Frank Morrill for the late Kjell Qvalle. In this case, the restorers went so far to retain the original paint, only re-spraying an area that was sanded down post-race to repair a ding from the Sebring circuit. Carroll Shelby's factory race cars fall into this category of course, and are generally traded for millions. What you removed was probably nicotine stains or residue, not to mention soap film close to a century old. By even replacing what was left of the brush's hair with a high grade badger knot, you have added life to an object that might have been discarded and never survived in any form. Had this brush been untouched, boxed, or pretty much unscathed after a century-we have another issue altogether. Even new old stock shaving brushes, although significant to many, have their knots routinely replaced. They were generally inexpensive then, produced in relatively large numbers, and are primarily valuable to those who enjoy them for shaving today as they were originally intended. As much as we love our shaving gear, they never will achieve a widespread or global value. Restore away, and enjoy your brush. It is absolutely stunning and certainly unique! God Bless! Tony Brown RN mgbbrown

 

[packersfan117]

I personally think the brush looks far and away better after you restored it. Excellent work!!

 

[Gigster]

Thanks. Fun stuff to do.

 

[shipr]

Personally I always opt for polishing except butterscotch down to white/ivory like you mentioned.
Your restores are excellent and love those Adoration handles. Great work!

 

[Gigster]

I'm with you. I'm very careful (and cautious) when it comes to butterscotch. The one butterscotch Adoration above. . .I couldn't resist taking it all the way down. lol I'm actually glad I did. . .the yellow swirl is amazing.

I can generally tell the original color once I remove the old knot and the membrane / barrier separating the lower from the ferrule (if one is present). This green brush had a very thick coating of dark epoxy or whatever glue they used to affix the ferrule to the lower. And it's harder than diamonds. lol Sometimes, certain things are better left alone.

Appreciate the compliment.