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T. Hessenbruch & Co with custom scales

I recently completed a restoration on a razor that's been in the works for several months.
My cousin saw photos of a Joseph Rodgers razor I finished with the zebra wood scales and requested if I could make him one similar. He's never used a straight razor before, but is anxious to try one.

So I chose a nice blade I had that I though would be ideal for a newcomer to the straight razor world: a 3/4" carbon steel blade with a 'softened' square tip made by T.Hessenbruch & Co. of Germany (1873 - 1906). The tang has some wear on both sides; the blade has some slight pitting near the spine but the edge is in very good shape.
For the scales, I had several sets of the zebra wood and choose a set that had nice figure. My cousin, like me, is a pretty big guy with large hands so I made the scales a bit thicker than I normally do.

Photo of the scales shaped & sanded. Awaiting the next step: CA finish. The blade is close to ready.
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CA finish application: This is using the 'thicker' CA glue. After a few 'wash coats,' I applied about 8-10 thick coats and then the hand-sanding began in earnest. Finished with polishing cloths (up to 8k) and buffed, and then a light coating of Renaissance wax.
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Some specs:
- Zebra wood scales with CA finish
- Solid brass pins and domed brass washers; internal brass washers
- Ebony end wedge

Once I finish honing this razor, my cousin will be receiving it a short time after Christmas.
I sent him a few teaser pics. It's a hefty-feeling razor in the hand with good balance. Once honed, I'm tempted to take it for a test drive before mailing it. :biggrin1:

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It is really fascinating, I am speechles.. Right now I am trying to make two sets of zebra wood scales, for two identical razors. But I really am having trouble with this CA finishing work . I put 3 times thin CA ( in one time, I put three coats and then sanded with 320 grits sand paper) and put a thicker CA glue four times ( again three coats and sandpaper 320) after the last one I sanded 400-600 and noticed some lighter looking areas, as if they are patches of wood itself but they are not. I went back to sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, but they are still there this is the picture of them.
Please explain me how you are making this CA work in detail. for example, In pictures I can see your setup for curing. But when you are in gluing work, have you got any special apparatus to hold it tightly, and how do you put the glue on scales , do you use a brush or a glove or something (please forgive me for my bad English)$IMG_02698.jpg
 
It is really fascinating, I am speechles.. Right now I am trying to make two sets of zebra wood scales, for two identical razors. But I really am having trouble with this CA finishing work . I put 3 times thin CA ( in one time, I put three coats and then sanded with 320 grits sand paper) and put a thicker CA glue four times ( again three coats and sandpaper 320) after the last one I sanded 400-600 and noticed some lighter looking areas, as if they are patches of wood itself but they are not. I went back to sanding with 220 grit sandpaper, but they are still there this is the picture of them.
Please explain me how you are making this CA work in detail. for example, In pictures I can see your setup for curing. But when you are in gluing work, have you got any special apparatus to hold it tightly, and how do you put the glue on scales , do you use a brush or a glove or something (please forgive me for my bad English)View attachment 533378
Zebra wood can be very porous and prone to having those 'splotchy' areas you see in the photo. To create a more uniform finish, I will sometimes first apply a thin coating of neutral stain such as Miniwax natural wood stain. Once that is dry, I'll apply a single complete coat of the THIN CA. This is the 'wash coat' to seal the wood. Depending upon the porosity of the set of scales, I should be ready to begin applying more coats of the thicker CA. If the wood is showing a tendency to be splotchy, I'll reapply another coat of the thin CA until the finish appears uniform. It may be necessary to re-sand the scales and begin again if the wash coating is not cooperating and not coming out uniform.

For scale finishing, I use this set-up. The scales remain secure on the wires and allow me to do multiple sets.
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Hope this helps.
Kevin
 
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