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Simpsons Platinum V1 + V2 vs Sovereign Fibre + Aesop Synthetic Brush V2

Hi Everyone!

First, I am really excited to have found this community. I have been wet shaving for maybe 6 or 7 years and I've often sought out information related to wet shaving through this online community. I decided to finally join this forum as I recently turned 30 and decided I wanted to upgrade from my Sterling synthetic Kong brush as a gift to me. In the process I've run into a bit of a dilemma I am hoping you guys can maybe help me with.

I've searched far and wide for what I feel might be the best brush for my use (mostly face lathering with shaving cream). Living in London, I found I have access to Mühle and Taylor's of old Bond Street. I have to say as an American living in London for 12 years now I was surprised at how off-standish the older employees at TOBS were with me. Nonetheless they are one of the few places in London I know of that has a nice selection of different things.

so...

While in TOBS I saw a Duke 3 synthetic brush labeled as having "synthetic bristle". In my research from this forum and Simpson's website, I have come to recognize the brushes with this title, having their platinum fiber- whereas brushes that say "sovereign fiber" have that instead.

I saw it was priced at +/-£50 which I would almost think of as a deal so given my knowledge and this compelling video on Youtube :
- I was sold.

The Duke:
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After leaving I stopped at the Aesop store nearby just to see what their shaving offerings might be. I saw a new synthetic shaving brush there and I have to say, I was legitimately blown away by a few qualities: 1) Its water and heat retinence were outstanding. 2) it looked convincing to actual silver tip 3) the handle for me is awesome 4) the fibers are incredibly soft but still seem to have both back bone and a nice amount of exfoliation. Basically perfect except 1 thing.. Knot density. This knot is simply not that dense which is a real bummer. I have emailed Aesop to work out where they procure this synthetic since it is mind blowing honestly. So what do you know? I bought it on the spot!

The Humble Aesop brush:
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Side by Side

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I know.. the duke (left) has an insanely dense knot!!

at risk of sounding nuts I would almost guess that the Aesop synthetic is manufactured by Simpsons and is their new platinum fiber- or at least really close to what I would expect it to be.

On the other hand...

When I got home I inspected the duke 3 that I picked up. Upon further inspection, I realized that the synthetic fiber used much more closely resembled the appearance of sovereign fiber (specifically the artificially white tips). I decided to write the Simpsons to help me make sense of this.. This is what they said:

"We original only had one type of Synthetic Material (Platiunum) so all our synthetic brushes were engraved ‘synthetic’ which is what’s on your brush. We now have another type of synthetic material (Sovereign) so we decided we would change the engraving on the handles to either ‘Platinum’ or ‘Sovereign’ to identify the different brushes. Our platinum synthetic has also slightly changed to what it previously was which maybe why you think it looks different to the one you have."

So that has certainly complicated things for me. I have included photos of the brushes below. As you can see, the Duke 3 is seriously dense- especially next to the humble Aesop brush but I fear it has the older platinum fibers. More specifically, I worry that Simpson's might have simply retired the old platinum fiber name and repurposed it as sovereign fiber.

So here are my questions- has anyone made sense of Simpson's platinum fiber v1 and v2? And how do either compare to sovereign fibers?

As an aside I saw the italian barber in the states had a killer deal so I actually also picked up a razorock 400 with plissoft and the orange/noir counterpart. The experience of a metal handle is excellent. In the uk I tried the aluminum noir- the fiber was pretty nice but the glue bump was massive with greatly reduced the splay and knot size- to the point I felt I couldn't use it as I wanted. Which reminds me - the Aesop has no glue bump to speak of- seems it was properly manufactured.. whoever does it.

So another question I want to pose is- if you were me what would you do with the Duke? I feel like at minimum it might just be some super old stock and I might just prefer to return it given I haven't used it yet. Honestly the Aesop synthetic have set a new standard for synthetics for me so that whatever fancy brush I get next I want it to have these fibers! Also how many brushes can one guy have?

I have used my Kong since maybe 2016 and it has served me well. Its soft- but over time I have found so many shortcomings; way too floppy- no backbone, no water retention, no heat retention, the handle is really large, the knot is so large that I feel I dont even get the chance to exfoliate at all. In all actuality both these brushes I just picked up must certainly be better.

As a final thought- this "real" synthetic fibers has got my head spinning- I am just shocked. I never owned badger but I can see how this is genuinely a viable substitute not only for a brush- but a really really nice one too- What are some of the brushes you came across that perform like this material?

Check out the photos and let me know what you guys are thinking!
thanks guys!
 
I agree. The fiber on that Duke looks like my T3 Sovereign and like my CH3 Sovereign, and it looks different from the CH2 Synthetic that I had.

(in any case I prefer the Sovereign, it feels like a Super Badger when painting and like a Best Badger when splayed)
 
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The knot on the Duke definitely looks like a sovereign fiber knot to me. The newer platinum fiber knots more closely resemble natural fiber knots than the sovereign fiber knots

What the new platinum fiber knots look like (not my photo):View attachment 1714428
Hey thanks for sharing this photo- that looks a lot more like what I was expecting!
 
The aesop is a Muhle silvertip fiber knot.
You can buy from Muhle, apshaveco or through Rudy vey.

I would recommend the XL size. It'll blow you away!
Thanks! thats awesome yeah- I really like the aesop brush now that I've used it for about a week. I am curious about the larger size and also how the Muhle STF compares to Simpsons Platinum.. I may I have to spend more money after all haha
 
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That Razorock 400 is amazing too by the way. It's my top brush to be honest. Above my Simpson T3.
I know right! I just used the Noir Plissoft 400 today and it was mighty soft- oddly the one with the orange handle seemed to splay better than the other one I had with the aluminum handle
 
Hey everyone! thanks for writing in! I really appreciate it! So in the end I returned the Duke 3 - I just felt like if I wanted to try sovereign fiber then I could always get a T1 or something like that.

I got both the razorock 400 black (orange) and og plissoft (aluminum).. man I love that aluminum handle (weight!). Interestingly the divots on the aluminum handle are deeper than the ones on the resin handle- although I do like the color:

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I can see that the plissoft is v much like the one on the kong (bearing in mind my kong is maybe 7 years old)- but who knows maybe the knot will be better.
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After using the 400 noir today I felt like it was super soft- the backbone was there a bit and it played alright- no real heat retention to speak of though but a real treat to cold (long handle = no soap on my hand). Face lather went well - and I tried an unusual blade- the minora by gillette in a 34c- man, Sharp! sharper than the Gillete Silver Blue- my go to! but still not too course- I will try again in two days using the same blade to see about longevity but man what a fun blade!

I am also thinking about starting to do reviews of brushes or who knows?!- I kinda made a list of all the essential info that people might be interested in to help me decide what I care about.

I reckon I might pick up some of Simpson's platinum fiber since it looks seriously good and definitely different from the Muhle stf which is exciting- I feel that might be the final show down of luxury synthetics.

I will say at £47- the Aesop brush is pretty much worth it and my favorite of the bunch I have. It outperforms the kong - has backbone if you want some exfoliation - but is as soft as you'd imagine. The handle is especially nice- I measured the width of the knot and it either 23/24cm with 54cm loft. If it is the Muhle stf then it costs pretty much the same as their large which is compared to well to the Muhle large.

Thanks again everyone for your comments and info!
 

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Great post! Now I know I need to get the orange one as well! Had my eyes on it, but your pictures put it more in perspective with the others rather than a catalogue picture.

Thanks!

Guido
 
Thanks! thats awesome yeah- I really like the aesop brush now that I've used it for about a week. I am curious about the larger size and also how the Muhle STF compares to Simpsons Platinum.. I may I have to spend more money after all haha

Wait till you try a Muhle STF XL!
All your other synthetics will be redundant!
 
that Aesop brush looks like a rebadged Edwin Jagger STF. (nothing wrong with that, if the price was right.)
I've got the EJ STF XL...
 
Hey everyone! thanks for writing in! I really appreciate it! So in the end I returned the Duke 3 - I just felt like if I wanted to try sovereign fiber then I could always get a T1 or something like that.

I got both the razorock 400 black (orange) and og plissoft (aluminum).. man I love that aluminum handle (weight!). Interestingly the divots on the aluminum handle are deeper than the ones on the resin handle- although I do like the color:

View attachment 1717219
I can see that the plissoft is v much like the one on the kong (bearing in mind my kong is maybe 7 years old)- but who knows maybe the knot will be better.
View attachment 1717221

After using the 400 noir today I felt like it was super soft- the backbone was there a bit and it played alright- no real heat retention to speak of though but a real treat to cold (long handle = no soap on my hand). Face lather went well - and I tried an unusual blade- the minora by gillette in a 34c- man, Sharp! sharper than the Gillete Silver Blue- my go to! but still not too course- I will try again in two days using the same blade to see about longevity but man what a fun blade!

I am also thinking about starting to do reviews of brushes or who knows?!- I kinda made a list of all the essential info that people might be interested in to help me decide what I care about.

I reckon I might pick up some of Simpson's platinum fiber since it looks seriously good and definitely different from the Muhle stf which is exciting- I feel that might be the final show down of luxury synthetics.

I will say at £47- the Aesop brush is pretty much worth it and my favorite of the bunch I have. It outperforms the kong - has backbone if you want some exfoliation - but is as soft as you'd imagine. The handle is especially nice- I measured the width of the knot and it either 23/24cm with 54cm loft. If it is the Muhle stf then it costs pretty much the same as their large which is compared to well to the Muhle large.

Thanks again everyone for your comments and info!

Great comparison!! And that aluminum handle is a looker!! :thumbup1::thumbup1::thumbup1:
 
The knot on the Duke definitely looks like a sovereign fiber knot to me. The newer platinum fiber knots more closely resemble natural fiber knots than the sovereign fiber knots

What the new platinum fiber knots look like (not my photo):View attachment 1714428
hey thanks for sending this photo so this is something that seems to continue to elude me; I finally pulled the trigger on a simpsons duke 3 in platinum fibre from their website. I am looking at this photo and my new brush and they still seem to be different. Specifically this photo seems to have that more natural badger appearance - and mine seems to stil be artificial- and yet still different from the soveriegn fibre. whats going on?!
 

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hey thanks for sending this photo so this is something that seems to continue to elude me; I finally pulled the trigger on a simpsons duke 3 in platinum fibre from their website. I am looking at this photo and my new brush and they still seem to be different. Specifically this photo seems to have that more natural badger appearance - and mine seems to stil be artificial- and yet still different from the soveriegn fibre. whats going on?!
Beautiful brush. The Duke (mine’s in best) is one of my favorite brushes from Simpson. It could be variations in batches and/or the way it was photographed. The platinum fiber brush I have I can tell it’s synthetic fiber but it looks more “natural” than the sovereign fiber brushes I have
 
Beautiful brush. The Duke (mine’s in best) is one of my favorite brushes from Simpson. It could be variations in batches and/or the way it was photographed. The platinum fiber brush I have I can tell it’s synthetic fiber but it looks more “natural” than the sovereign fiber brushes I have
Thanks! Yeah I saw the blue and couldn't resist. I agree! I feel like the lighting tends to play such an important role in how the fibers appear- what I can say is that the fibers on my brush seem to resemble what ap shave co call "titanium fiber" but then the photo you sent looks quite different also in terms of the thickness of stripe. I could add the brush I have is a centenary edition (commemorating 100 years in 2019) so I considered mine had the older v1 platinum. Out of curiosity, when did you get your brush?
 
Thanks! Yeah I saw the blue and couldn't resist. I agree! I feel like the lighting tends to play such an important role in how the fibers appear- what I can say is that the fibers on my brush seem to resemble what ap shave co call "titanium fiber" but then the photo you sent looks quite different also in terms of the thickness of stripe. I could add the brush I have is a centenary edition (commemorating 100 years in 2019) so I considered mine had the older v1 platinum. Out of curiosity, when did you get your brush?
I’ve heard that Simpson’s platinum is the same as the other companies titanium fibers. But not sure how true it is. I’ve had my Duke for at least a year now. Same with the Chubby 2 in platinum
 

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I smell like a Christmas pudding
The earliest Chubby 2 synthetics were labelled 'Synthetic Badger' and lofted at 54mm compared to the current 50mm, which makes them easy to splay and a great face lathering brush. I have tried later Simpson Platinum brushes and this is my favourite. If you see one labelled in this way then it is well worth picking up.

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Hey everyone! thanks for writing in! I really appreciate it! So in the end I returned the Duke 3 - I just felt like if I wanted to try sovereign fiber then I could always get a T1 or something like that.

I got both the razorock 400 black (orange) and og plissoft (aluminum).. man I love that aluminum handle (weight!). Interestingly the divots on the aluminum handle are deeper than the ones on the resin handle- although I do like the color:

View attachment 1717219
I can see that the plissoft is v much like the one on the kong (bearing in mind my kong is maybe 7 years old)- but who knows maybe the knot will be better.
View attachment 1717221

After using the 400 noir today I felt like it was super soft- the backbone was there a bit and it played alright- no real heat retention to speak of though but a real treat to cold (long handle = no soap on my hand). Face lather went well - and I tried an unusual blade- the minora by gillette in a 34c- man, Sharp! sharper than the Gillete Silver Blue- my go to! but still not too course- I will try again in two days using the same blade to see about longevity but man what a fun blade!

I am also thinking about starting to do reviews of brushes or who knows?!- I kinda made a list of all the essential info that people might be interested in to help me decide what I care about.

I reckon I might pick up some of Simpson's platinum fiber since it looks seriously good and definitely different from the Muhle stf which is exciting- I feel that might be the final show down of luxury synthetics.

I will say at £47- the Aesop brush is pretty much worth it and my favorite of the bunch I have. It outperforms the kong - has backbone if you want some exfoliation - but is as soft as you'd imagine. The handle is especially nice- I measured the width of the knot and it either 23/24cm with 54cm loft. If it is the Muhle stf then it costs pretty much the same as their large which is compared to well to the Muhle large.

Thanks again everyone for your comments and info!

Sorry to respond to an older post but it's funny you should mention these two Razorocks as I'm actually looking at them right now!

Do you prefer one over the other? I initially thought oh, aluminium handle, that looks good then I thought well maybe not, especially with ceramic bowls! I don't actually have any metal handled brushes but I've read some posts from others saying they're not keen on them.

I'm tempted to just try the regular plastic one with the Butterscotch handle to try it out first!

I see you like the Aesop brush a lot too. If it is the same as the Muhle STF I have one of those, but I made the mistake of getting a Medium and I find it too small. I'm going to get the XL one next time I see it at a fair price.

Just on the topic of synthetics. It seems you're a synthetic fan like myself. I only use synthetics and while I don't know if you've tried them but in case you haven't I've been very impressed with the PAA brushes. Unfortunately I never paid much attention to them for the longest time then I got one of their "Star Craft" brushes and was blown away by it. I bought a few more of them and they're all great. They're all inspired by old, vintage brushes of yesteryear.

I see you're writing in £ so you must be in the UK too! Gentleman's Groom Room in Scotland stock a (mostly) full range of them as does Agent Shave. They don't have the very latest ones but they do have the majority of them. They only cost about £25 and in my opinion they're some of the best I've used at the price point.

From what I see online (here, YouTube etc) the general consensus seems to be that the Peregrino is the ideal one to go for, especially as your first one. But both the Peregrino and the Star Craft have the same 24mm Roswell grey knot so it's pretty much down to which handle you like best! I chose the Starcraft first as I like blue but I picked up the Peregrino later (yet to use it however) I figured no point just yet as the Starcraft is essentially the same brush in different handle.
 
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