- Thread starter
- #41
thanks Joe!Restoration in progress
- Thread starter Luc
- Start date
thanks Joe!
I know its way too late. I did all of my restores with TGN's Silver Tip, thinking that would be the best quality with the soft tips. But they were too skritchy??! Then Rudy did one for me. He suggested TGN's Finest. Zero skritch incredibly soft tips. Luc, you did an amaz'in job with all of these. I actually love the first "slipp'ry" one. Beautiful work.
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- #43
Finest was suggested and I just went to Silvertip. They scratch a bit at the moment but nothing bad. I'm happy with the results. The first one is actually too tall for my stand. If I hang the brush upside down, it touches the counter top!
I've found the Silvertip and the Best too scritchy for me ( YMMV ). The Finest, Super and Silvertip A are not scritchy at all. I'll repeat what I've ( and other people ) have posted before that the Finest is THE best bang for buck knot that Tony sells. Soft tips yet nice and firm bristle.
Excellent job Luc. So all it took to get you to finish was a plane trip and breakfast with ya huh
Doesn't matter if that brush isn't Ivory, still a very nice looking brush . I should have snaffled it but was concentrating more on keeping you away from my Daine and Hathaway Miltary kit
- Thread starter
- #45
I've found the Silvertip and the Best too scritchy for me ( YMMV ). The Finest, Super and Silvertip A are not scritchy at all. I'll repeat what I've ( and other people ) have posted before that the Finest is THE best bang for buck knot that Tony sells. Soft tips yet nice and firm bristle.
Excellent job Luc. So all it took to get you to finish was a plane trip and breakfast with ya huh
Doesn't matter if that brush isn't Ivory, still a very nice looking brush . I should have snaffled it but was concentrating more on keeping you away from my Daine and Hathaway Miltary kit
Yeah, keepin' that drop kit 2 tables behind just to be sure...
Let me know if you want the brush Ian...
That hexagonal one is my favourite too. They all look nice, though. Good work!
Anyone got Anything "new" to add to this thread in the last ( almost ) 13 years ?
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- #48
It's unfortunate but the pictures are now missing. I did not keep a copy so I won't be able to post them back.
I received a Rubberset brush as part of a lot that I bought off eBay recently. The brush smelled like my grandma's purse so I knew I had to re-knot it. I found a 20mm boar knot on eBay for cheap.
I received the knot today. I started sanding the brush since it had dark spots and the bottom and where the know sits were very rough.
All that is left is to varnish the handle again, glue the new knot and it's ready!
I received a Rubberset brush as part of a lot that I bought off eBay recently. The brush smelled like my grandma's purse so I knew I had to re-knot it. I found a 20mm boar knot on eBay for cheap.
I received the knot today. I started sanding the brush since it had dark spots and the bottom and where the know sits were very rough.
All that is left is to varnish the handle again, glue the new knot and it's ready!
I'll be interested to see how it turns out! There's been one of these brushes sitting at the local antique shop for a few months, I didn't really consider it because it doesn't look like much right now but who knows, it could clean up well.
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- #50
Changing a knot is not very difficult and can be done with a minimum of tools. Getting the right knot can take a bit longer. I will post more pictures when there's a bit more proress.
- Thread starter
- #51
Ok, so most of the black spots are gone on the wooden handle (bottom part) but there's still some. Adding a finish makes them come out a bit more. I call it character!
Here's a preview of the knot (not set yet).
It sits inside the top part of the handle without falling at the bottom. I still have a gap around the knot but I suppose it goes that way. The previous knot was glued around the black part of the Rubberset. There wasn't any glue on the wooden handle itself. I simply used a drill to drill out the knot and pulled on what was left with long-nosed plyers.
I can probably glue it now and let it dry in the garage. I might do that today.
Right now (no pictures yet), the handle is drying outside. I applied 3 coats of lacquer semi-gloss. I probably apply some more today. I read on the woodworking forums that lacquer isn't great with water. I'mcheap reusing what I have so I will see how long the finish will last. Anyways, it won't be living outside or being in the water like a boat (for an extended period).
I will just re-sand and re-finish the handle if it doesn't work.
Here's a preview of the knot (not set yet).
It sits inside the top part of the handle without falling at the bottom. I still have a gap around the knot but I suppose it goes that way. The previous knot was glued around the black part of the Rubberset. There wasn't any glue on the wooden handle itself. I simply used a drill to drill out the knot and pulled on what was left with long-nosed plyers.
I can probably glue it now and let it dry in the garage. I might do that today.
Right now (no pictures yet), the handle is drying outside. I applied 3 coats of lacquer semi-gloss. I probably apply some more today. I read on the woodworking forums that lacquer isn't great with water. I'm
I will just re-sand and re-finish the handle if it doesn't work.
- Thread starter
- #52
All right, 6 coats of lacquer on the handle (two upside down and 4 standing). I used some superglue that I found at the dollar store. I know marine epoxy is best but I've glued knots with that cheap superglue and to this day, they are still attached. I put a bit too much of superglue as you can see it glued/leaked in the bristles. I'm not too worried as it's at the bottom so I probably won't notice when I try it.
I left everything disassembled for now (24hrs) to let everything dry. I will then start the process of working the knot with lather.
I left everything disassembled for now (24hrs) to let everything dry. I will then start the process of working the knot with lather.
